new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

Also I figured out the main reason the packs I built are so screwed up. It is the way I did the series connections between each 5S - cell bank. I did it wrong !

If I rewire each pack correctly it should work a lot better. I will go into more detail when I get back. All I know is the big battery rack in the video I am posting when I get back must go. I can not live with it much longer. There is a better way.

Is it impossible to solder silicone wire. I know nothing about it but that is one idea I have. Plan A. My 10 gauge wire is plan B.
DA. said the speaker wire I used was a bad idea. Thinking I should 86 all that wire and hook all parallel series connections with one long strand of wire eliminating every piss poor solder joint I did for the series connections.

I am on my way to storage and shoot a video with the 800W - 20" direct drive.

A smart person would find what the cause of the problem is ... before trying to fix it?

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSuFYRsQwDg

Yea.

I charged it up at the storage and for some reason the camera shut off about half way back. When I got home I checked total voltage of each pack and was exactly 20V for one 6S - 5P pack and 19.9V for the second and 10V for the 3S - 5P pack. Total miles traveled is 4.4 miles. That is with the 800W - 20" direct drive hub motor. The 20" Turbo.

I did a really horrible job soldering the series connections. The parallel connections were not the best either but the series was terrible. Basically too many solder points. If I solder a single wire (blue) then all those piss poor solder joints are removed from the equation. Counting the power wires there is 7 + 7 + 4 = 18 very sketchy solder jobs I did. More like butcher jobs on most.



Then I just need to check each solder joint on the cells for the parallel connections.

The easy way to do that is to hook a load up to each cell bank and use a infra red heat detector. Any solder joints that ae cold will show up on the heat meter red as well as being hotter to the touch than proper solder joints. Then I could just re solder what is bad and not heat up any cells that have a good solder joint in each cell bank.

Unfortunately I cant solder here as it gives my wife , myself and her son a head ache. It will have to wait but am willing to bet it is those sloppy series connections that are causing the problem. The power wires are also suspect.

I still have to research this silicone wire. If I could use that then I think the packs will run a lot better. I still do not even know what silicone wire is. It is not copper ?

How many amps can 12 gauge silicone handle?

Silicone Power Wire
AWG Area Current
16 1.31mm² up to 30A
14 2.08mm² up to 45A
12 3.31mm² up to 70A
10 5.26mm² up to 120A

I just pulled that off google.

If it is not copper or metal how can you solder to it ? I need to do more research on it.

9:16 PM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgn1qykbkrg

Are bullet wires silicone wire ? It looks like it, The wire is silver ? same color ?

Man I just don't know much about it. If I could have used that to start with it would have been great.

I now know how to fix my packs but no place to do it. Why I want solar power in the van. A 1,000W DC to AC converter. I can run and charge Lion and wont need heavy / bulky batteries any more.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

If you had your van with the batteries and solar panels going you could solder in your van.

Silicone wire is just wire with lots and lots of thin strands for flexibility (I know) and cross sectional area (I think), its what hobbyking sells. The wire is not really a factor you could use home depot house strand wiring that is really stiff, not as flexibility as silicone wire with way fewer strands that are larger. Any wire of the correct gauge is fine so long as you make the connection solid and not half ass. Which you were told months ago, but please do not do your professional solder droplet technique. Heat the wire up and allow the solder to get sucked in and flow, sometimes you will have to touch a bit of solder to get it going, any video on youtube will show you how to properly solder wire.

 

[latecurtis]

If you had your van with the batteries and solar panels going you could solder in your van.

Silicone wire is just wire with lots and lots of thin strands for flexibility (I know) and cross sectional area (I think), its what hobbyking sells. The wire is not really a factor you could use home depot house strand wiring that is really stiff, not as flexibility as silicone wire with way fewer strands that are larger. Any wire of the correct gauge is fine so long as you make the connection solid and not half ass.
Top

I need flexible silicone wire and solder to existing wire like blueprint I did. I hate to admit it but I screwed the pooch on all those series connections.

May as well check solder joints to the cells as well. infa red heat. Need 3.V load. Need to stress each cell bank and the cold solder joints heat up due to resistance. I talked to a guy that builds lithium 10n 18650 packs. Told him about possible cold joints.

Then I thought about those heat image cameras. Sounds pretty straightforward. I can do capacity test but if it hits 17 AH > 3V that is good. Those cells are too unstable < 3V.

The video shows I can run them the way they are. Not wanting to damage them any more. The silicone wiring should be easy as soldering to existing wire / series connections.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSuFYRsQwDg

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Ianhill]

Silicone wire is the outer sleeving material the wire will be a tinned copper specially if its for marine use that i would recommend using, house wire uses pvc for example and one solid core but marine can be 1024 strands and even many more higher is for high frequency tasks on the dc side if the controller we use stranded for flexibility of the conductor, the inner strand count is what makes the wire more or less expensive depending on use case needs, theres differimg sleeve types for fore safety etc but all you need to know is if its marine grade stranded and silicone its good enough for the battery side and then spend and get a nice roll of stranded for the controller to motor wires.

What you want is a high strand count silicone wire on the motor side of the controller, a lower strand count can be used on the battery side but it still needs to be flexible enough to move about i wouldnt go using soild core.

House wire always works at 50/60 hertz so skin effect is negligible and a solid core conductor can be used in a fixed instaltion it never moves little vibration wires not likely to fatigue easily like a car door loom for example.

Rc cars can be over 50000hz to the motor so skin effect can limit the current a solid core wire can safely carry so the wire is broken into strands the current goes to the outside of each strand but theres many if them and the wire carrys more current than a solid core in high hz scenarios just like a motors laminations break the eddys into smaller chunks the wires broken into many small chunks for the current to travel down the outer of each one and increase

 

[tomjasz]

Is it impossible to solder silicone wire.

No! It sucks with Anderson connectors as the silicon sheath is uber flexible and tough to insert. But with XT60, XT90 soldered connectors it's fine.

Silicone wire is just wire with lots and lots of thin strands for flexibility

Silicon is a sheath, I buy non-silicon wire with the same bundle of fine wires.

 

[Chalo]

I find that fine stranded silicone jacketed wire takes more flux and more heat to solder than coarser PVC jacketed wire. But it still does the thing.

 

[calab]

Its tricky to solder high strand silicone wire to xt's or bullets, takes patience and a little skill following the simple process, I always screw up a xt90 or two and those are the easiest, I heat up the metal part to much which will melt the plastic moving the xt90's encased bullet connector and almost always I forget to install the cap covering the solder joint or sometimes I will forget to slip on the heat shrink before soldering.

 

[tomjasz]

Its tricky to solder high strand silicone wire to xt's or bullets

Practice. A good soldering station or TS100 and Bob's your uncle.

 

[calab]

That is why I keep all my old xt connectors, to practice on. The multi-hand tool is great to have, mine broke long ago so I use big locking pliers to hold the xt. The process is the key point but I can see curtis not following the process.

Other tips and tricks for bullet connectors is to drill holes in wood that the bullet connector fits in, another is to use a 12v computer fan to blow the solder fumes away, this is why curtis is getting headaches, hot boxing his family with leaded solder.

 

[tomjasz]

Computer fans and cheap dryer vent tubing make a great venting setup. I have a solder block that works great.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/141929132881

 

[latecurtis]

gregswf
Aug '17
In RC applications the wire is made of copper, the insulation is often PVC or Silicone.
Silicon (a type of rubber not a semiconductor ) is more flexible than PVC, it has very good thermal and electrical properties.
I have found PVC insulation crack after some use in various weather conditions and vibration exposure.
There are claims that silicone insulated wires are lighter but I’m not sure at the moment, looking at wires used in lipo batteries it seems that they are thinner than you would expect looking at an AWG table.
Silicone insulated wires are easier to solder.

Yea.

I was researching and checked back in here. Seems to be a lot more information on it but not much on the silver plating silver over gold trick they do for better conductivity. Silver conducts electricity better than gold. This is brand new information for me. I did not know that until researching why silicon wire is silver core.

I will need even more information. The bottom line is the fact not only can the wire sustain higher temperature and current. The core conducts electricity better.

Silicone will do close to 600F easily. survive 60 or 70 amp bursts. Maybe not for long time though. < 20 second bursts of extremally high current. The cerrowire I got though still could easily do 40 amp bursts with 211F.

I need to order some silicone wire. 12 gauge sounds perfect. I need a roll of that. I got the Weller iron and 50/50 solder. Could not find 60 / 40.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

Each wire has its own temperature rating, I was just looking at teflon ptfe wire and it was 200c to 250c. Its not like you need anything special for your ebike,

This is exactly what you do
1) go to the google maps website
2) punch in rc stores or hobby stores
3) ride your ebike or drive your van or caddy to the rc store
4) buy 10awg or 12awg wire, 10 would be better
5) buy 60/40 or 63/37 solder
6) solder 10 or 12awg wire


funny thing is, that high strand silicone wire is going to suck up a ton of solder, and the funnier thing is you probably have really thin solder so you will moving your solder hand fast to keep up and your probably running low so you will have to either order online some more solder and wait
https://www.yellowpages.com/search-map/canton-oh/rc-hobby-shops

 

[latecurtis]

Each wire has its own temperature rating, I was just looking at teflon ptfe wire and it was 200c to 250c. Its not like you need anything special for your ebike, like I said you could literally use automotive hook up wire used for 12v but as long as you have the right gauge and you did proper soldering job its fine. A step up is to get lost, as you are, as you often do, trying to decode gravity for the right selection of wire :lol: for some pipe dream that action is never taken upon until the very last moment, what we have here right now.

Yea.

I can dig that.

Thing is though , cant solder here. Bottom line.

Basically I just need to test out my LTOs with my 1,800W brushless motor. Hopefully it will get closer to 30 mph. If not may need to build that 4S - LTO pack.

The LIFEPO4 packs I built run ok. I posted a video earlier. They really do not need rebuilding as long as they run.

If it is not broke , don't fix it

I built LTO batteries. I still need to run those.



The cheap 26650 cells were around $200.

I paid $600+ for the LTOs.

24 of the bad boys. Got a 20S pack built and ready to rock with two 10S active balancers. A 54.6V - 15 amp charger.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Stop beating up on, bullying, LC!

a really horrible job soldering the series connections. The parallel connections were not the best either but the series was terrible. Basically too many solder points. If I solder a single wire (blue) then all those piss poor solder joints are removed from the equation. Counting the power wires there is 7 + 7 + 4 = 18 very sketchy solder jobs I did. More like butcher jobs on most.

I know he said that he already "mastered soldering" but he is just prone to ... exaggeration?

Do not neglect to finish testing your LiFe! Just because you assume one problem, that does not preclude others, or even the main or even the actual problem.

The advantage of "Silicone wire" is flexibility, something that you do not require. "Silicone" refers to the outer sheathing around the copper wire.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.

Going to need that 36V - 40 amp controller hopefully this month for the Currie.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

The plans listed are as follows

ebike battery
solar panels
van batteries to boost vehicles and charge ebike battery out of the van, not closet apartment
start family rv, tow truck and raptor batteries - Funny thing is the raptor is at a minimum $8k if its running, just fix all their battery issues its really that simple unless its a wiring or drain problem. Tow truck company could be a good business depending on where you are.
fix cadillac - that will cost a lot of money unless you do it yourself but frame repair is a specialty
fix van - probably could be done, see old vehicles are super easy to repair and rebuild engines and transmissions.
camera out back - you want to know the cost without actually looking yourself now thats funny too its called bestbuy and ebay check it out.
electric motorcycle with 75-5 is a wild pipe dream but do keep smoking
inverter
need a charger
starting a business with someone who knows how to weld :lol: you could take some courses to learn to weld after you buy a welder and have a place to practice.
some sort of transformer for god knows what :lol: I will have to reread but the list is getting long :lol:
Can barely get out of bed let alone the house
Drive over to darkangels place so da can do the work, thats a strange dream
ebike repair as a business, wow just wow :lol:
eventually do ev conversions for cars and trucks is a bold dream with no action
order a spot welder, a folding table and some chairs
do battery building and repair
12 ft boat with an electric trawling motor

You see having dreams is nice and all, and all that is possible with zero knowledge, because its called hiring the right people to do the work, takes a lot of smarts. Like owning a roofing business, its fuckking hard on the body so why bother, just be good at getting the work and let the hired hands make good money bending over all the time.

https://batteryhookup.com/products/2x-spim08hp-3-7v-8ah-cells-with-threaded-insert



Yea. 10 of those would weigh 17.5 pounds and cost < $100.

If I decide to go that route for all my 36V needs I could separate the 75 - LIFEPO4 cells for 4S - 18P.

Just need that solar panel on the van roof to charge the 12V batteries.

4S - 18P - LIFE.

three 22 Ah - SLAs

1 - 33 Ah - lawn mower battery.

All in parallel for 12V power bank.

200W solar kit with 1,000W DC to AC converter.

My wife's son has an RV and a tow truck as well as a Raptor. He has lots of battery issues. Mostly starting vehicles with old tired batteries. Would a power bank like described above start just about any 12V vehicle. It is also possible if I park in the back yard behind my house to run a 75 foot extension cord to charge the power bank with my 8 amp 12V charger. I would not have to rely on solar power alone.

I could then park the Cadillac out in the front. Only thing I am worried about is thieves. I can not see out in the back without mounting a camera. That is why I don't park out back. How much is a security camera going to cost as well as a car alarm. that is the deal breaker.

I could also start charging and running the 13S power modules. Much lighter than LTOs.

It is just something I am pondering right now. Looking at March for ordering the solar panels. We are not even sure where we are moving yet.

I wish I changed the motor sprocket for the 1,800W brushless motor. I wanted to run the LTOs today.

Hopefully Battery Hookup will have those cells for awhile. They sold out of the prismatic cells though. My money is tied up this month as storage and $400 for the car , boat , trailer and welder.

I have to pay rent and still owe $100 on that $400 deal. I might see if it is possible to order those Friday though. I feel like I need to order the solar kit as well though as not charging Lion in the house. I don't need more batteries laying around though I am not using like the 13S power modules.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384441921997?chn=ps&var=652569872085&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1zJOYsTjcShazD3kNWkaaDw6&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=652569872085_384441921997&targetid=1599090335177&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=1023608&poi=&campaignid=15285446355&mkgroupid=129532473733&rlsatarget=pla-1599090335177&abcId=9300702&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0eOPBhCGARIsAFIwTs5rqUNY13uMILJMk_nmGw9Kp-OxgHZTSrSSlTM7b9Zo6GYeaDh2nQUaAo0-EALw_wcB

Should I order 10 of those from battery hookup and that cheap e bay 200W solar panel kit ????

I have a 2 amp 13S - Lipo charger. Might work with my 120W DC to AC inverter but Wall-Mart has a 400W one for $50 I think. Probably get a 400W for half that off of e bay when I order the solar kit.

Please let me know if it would work ?

2:35 PM.

Yea. Not getting a lot done today. However was thinking about starting a business. I need a partner. someone who knows how to weld. I thought about welding the K frame on the Caddy in the back yard. I found this.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockstone-5000-Watt-Transformer-Converter/dp/B00J0CF8W4/ref=asc_df_B00J0CF8W4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216534554317&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14427673617310845115&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023608&hvtargid=pla-350316078928&th=1

It would work for my 110V - AC welder and could hook it up in the van to the 12V power bank. I could do jump starts and portable welding. I will drive the van and help set up ect. Just need a good welder. I suppose I could convert my 24 - LTOs to add to the power bank. Can 4S - 18P - LIFE , three 22 Ah - SLAs and a couple 33 Ah lawn mower batteries all hook up in parallel to 6S - 4P - LTO ? Would an 8 amp 12V - DC charger and 75 foot extension cord charge it ? Also a 200W solar panel kit.

Maybe could do e bike repair as well. If DA. knows of an apartment or house for rent where he is I might be willing to relocate if he wants to do it or knows someone who does. We could also build a Death bike with the FX - 75 - 5 motor. Repair electric scooters as well as electric motor cycles. Any small electric vehicle.

Eventually do EV conversions for cars and trucks. I could order a better spot welder this summer sometime. A folding table and a few chairs and could set up an e bike work shop anywhere for battery building and repair.

Please let me know.

Who is in ?

2:55 PM.

OK I got a 12 foot boat on the way. I need a link for building a DIY electric trolling motor. Not sure how but will need one. NOT using gas. Not sure how batteries can be safe in a boat if it tips over. Never researched any of that.

Hoping I can squeeze it in the 5 by 10. If not then will need a bigger unit.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

Its called tough love, not bullying.

Just do one thing at a time, its really that simple but sometimes life moves fast and you have to score on the deals you find but where on earth can you find an affordable place to park and store all work on all your pipe dreams?

Keep smoking but do pass it around and do share. I got quite baked the other day.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.

Got a deal for $111 a month for 10 by 20 foot unit. The boat is a Coleman 12 foot two seater. It weight about 100 pounds. Came with a small trolling motor that works off a 12V battery. The trailer is long. With the toung about 14 feet. It is 4 feet wide. That means I have another EV.

There is an outside AC outlet 20 feet from my unit. Not sure if it works. If it does I can charge LTO or LIFE. I wish I had AC power inside the unit though. It would be a perfect place to charge 18650 - Lion as it has a cement floor. As long as it is away from the car It could not catch anything on fire. Thing is though I will need a power bank and can not charge with solar as no sun inside the unit.

Solar panels on the van roof is still the best option. I could do small soldering jobs in the storage unit though with a power bank. The 3 - SLAs hooked to my 120W inverter might work for the 100W Weller. Can get a fold up metal table and chair.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

10'x20' is a pretty big storage unit for $111/month, how high is the ceiling from the floor?
If the power outlet is working, its kind of useless, you wont be able to hide an extension cord you will have to act like you are cleaning and organizing your unit 3 times a weak for an hour or two.

I told you that shit a long time ago, add in a quick pit stop for a 30 minute charge at the corner store before you get home, or plug it into the outside house outlet while you stand around doing whatever it is that you do.

I will just need to haul the 3 - SLAs and the lawn mower battery up and down the stairs.

Solar panel idea may work, I could have been wrong on that but its a matter of what kind of juice will you get. Bolt a few panels on the roof, camo the solar panel frame, hide the wiring going into the van. If you dont get much of any juice because the efficiency of cheap panels is not good, or its to cloudy then so be it.

 

[latecurtis]

If the power outlet is working, its kind of useless, you wont be able to hide an extension cord you will have to act like you are cleaning and organizing your unit 3 times a weak for an hour or two.

No.

The lady who runs the storage said I could use it to charge my e bike batteries but was not sure if it worked. She let me charge them inside yesterday when I was there.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/313692093160?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1JoevSqPrQk6W5wRBp06hHA17&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=313692093160&targetid=1599090334937&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=1023608&poi=&campaignid=15285446355&mkgroupid=129532473733&rlsatarget=pla-1599090334937&abcId=9300702&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0eOPBhCGARIsAFIwTs4Hq50kl4ne4SRfyv1a0Vyg7trSF-RlI29Yev1RtajFfF7glWAlLBUaAoKXEALw_wcB



That makes sense as I would not have to tear my LIFEPO4 packs apart. I can hook the LIFEPO4s in parallel with the three 22 Ah - SLAs out in the van and use my 120W - DC to AC converter to charge 36V or 48V 18650 lithium ion out in the van.

I could also use my 20S - LTOs to charge Lion as the converter does 36 or 48V to 12V.

Nominal Voltage Rating (DC):
30 V-60 V

Output Voltage Rating (DC):
12 V

I could also use my 20S - LTOs to charge Lion as the converter does 36 or 48V to 12V.

I wont need solar panels for awhile. I will just have to haul heavy batteries up and down stairs. At least I have the option of running Lion though if I want to.

I have a lot of loose 18650 cells. I don't need those LiPo pouches I posted earlier on. They work by compression so don't want to deal with them. I already own enough 18650 cells to build several large capacity packs. If I set up a soldering station at storage when the weather is warm I can sit there and solder.

All I will need to order this month is that $18 converter. The output wires will go into the DC power plug I use now when charging the van battery thru the 120W DC to AC converter. So basically I will be using two converters. One to convert 36 or 48V DC to 12V DC than the $20 - 120W - 12V DC to 110 AC converter.

That is how I will solder 18650 cells in my storage unit. I might want to upgrade though to a 400W DC to AC so I can run a small fan. It will also keep me cool on hot days.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

Nice, string the cord into the storage unit and hope no one unplugs it and lets hope its a good outlet :thumb:
10'Lx20'Wx10'H is not bad for a $111/month, you can stuff a lot of junk in there :thumb:
Get some good quality ratchet straps to hoist the ebikes :thumb:

The lady who runs the storage said I could use it to charge my e bike batteries but was not sure if it worked. She let me charge them inside yesterday when I was there.

Only thing I got to worry about is how much room will I have left over when I park the Cadillac and boat in there. For e bikes I might need to build something with 2 by 4s and a 4 by 8 sheet of plywood. Ceiling is 10 feet I think. If I take two 4 by 8 sheets of plywood like that

 

[calab]

Must be back on the down swing, understandable.

You could probably make a few of these but I dont know if you want to keep the heavy battery on, might just have to use beefier rope and pulley. Even a guy like me has a hard time with non ebikes lifting them up onto the garage ceiling hook to hang off of one wheel. Its a balancing act, never done it with anything heavier then a cheap trek hybrid, my ebike lives on its wheels year round except for when I flip it upside down to wrench on it.

 

[latecurtis]

I might change the sprocket on the 1,800W brushless motor tomorrow. With all the snow it might not be until March before I can ride again. That really sucks.

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

A stand up scooter would work for you, but its better for your health to walk :wink:

I walked to Wall-Mart to get a snow shovel and they are out of them. Took a bus back. My right knee can not do 5 or 6 miles anymore Around 3 miles is my limit now. I guess there is one in the basement for the house but I need one for my storage.