new eZip motor

Status
Not open for further replies.
latecurtis said:
I would still like to know if I could run LTO in series with LIFEPO4 ?
Of course you can! By placing different chemistries in series you just multiply the complexity and difficulty of protecting cells from your typical abuse and wanton destruction.
latecurtis said:
Also when I move how does LiPo compare to Lion as far as energy density and discharge rates. I know LiPo are rated for 20 and even 30C discharge rates and take up less space than Lion
LiPo is Li-ion!
The main difference is the packaging, "plastic" bags vs cans.

Energy density and discharge rates are merely the ratio of electrolyte to anode\cathode.
LiPo and Li-ion can be either high discharge or high energy density, usually some in between compromise.
 
I almost threw the LIFEPO4 packs I built in the dumpster. I thought they were shot. The LVC or what I thought was the LVC on the controller for the front Bafang motor. It continually cut out and makes a clicking or clunking noise. It gets worse if I attempt to use both motors but still does it if I turn off the breaker on the rear motor.

It is the Currie set up with the 12S - LIFE going to the front Bafang via the 18 amp Greentime controller. It did it last night on the way home but thought it was due to low voltage and SAG. However today it did it as soon as I started riding the bike on full charge.

The rear chain drive works with no sign of LVC but it is really low power. Probably less power at 56 or 53V than when it was hooked up at 43V or 12S. I figured the LIFEPO4 packs were severely damaged from soldering and were worthless.

I ran the 12S - LIFE in series with the SLA last night for 56V but today ran them with the 3S - LIFE for 15S - LIFEPO4 or 53v but no gain in power. The 1,000W - 36V motor could be a 500W motor or less. It is not much better than the Bafang when it was running good.

I was almost ready to throw the LIFE packs in the garbage dumpster but decided to hook them up to the 26" Diamondback Outlook. That bike sports dual Bafang motors and identical 17 amp controllers. Not greentime controllers but a different brand. The Greentime controllers are on the front of the Currie and 26" dual suspension.

There was no hesitation or noise or power cutting out with the Outlook and 17 amp + 17 amp or 34 amp total setup. Both Bafang motors ran flawlessly. The 20 mph top speed achieved quickly with both Bafangs working together. I rode it about 4 blocks and at full throttle. One throttle for both controllers and a single 40 amp DC breaker.

I really do not know what to think. I don't know why the Bafang on the Currie is clunking and the power cuts in and out and I do not know why the 36V - 1,000W rated chain drive on the back has no power regardless of voltage. 43V , 53V or 56V. No difference. Perhaps 12S or 43V may even have slightly more power. I figured with the voltage SAG it would do 30 mph with 53 or 56V. It is lucky if it will do 20 mph. Maybe 22 or 23 mph @ 43V or 12S - LIFE which SAGS to around 33V under load.

At this point in time I just do not know. If the LIFEPO4 packs are completely shot then how do they run dual 17 amp controllers perfectly ????? All the LIFEPO4 packs are on the charger. The two 6S in series are charging at 43.6V and the 3S is balance charging on the 6S - LiPo charger on LIFE balance mode - 3S at 3 amps.

I am very confused. This just makes no sense. I ran 15S - LIFE about a week or so ago with the 1,800W brushless motor and 1,500W controller and top speed was 25 mph. It never cut out once. I just do not know if my LIFEPO4 packs are complete garbage or I have a bad Bafang motor or controller AND a defective or < 500W motor on the Currie.

I ordered a second 22 Ah - SLA only a few days ago. Less than a week I think. It was more than I wanted to spend. $45 but arrived quick. I guess if I order 1 more I will be able to compare 36V - LIFE to 36V - SLA. I may just order 2 more. Then I can also compare 15S - LIFE to 48V - SLA.

There is a ton of blogs on hooking SLA and LIFE in parallel. Since the resting voltage of LIFE is higher than SLA it feeds the SLA. However with the lower capacity LIFE cells the SLAs might feed the LIFE after running a few miles. Also might be less SAG with both in parallel. Not sure ?

I think I will order this when I order two more 22 Ah - SLAs

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=asc_df_B013PKYILS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241994092016&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14038635494996441953&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023608&hvtargid=pla-522037414964&psc=1

It is a larger screen. I will be able to see exactly what is happening with the 36V - Currie chain drive and every e bike motor I have. Not sure what the issue is with the Bafang on the front of the Currie though. Could be a damaged motor or defective controller.

If anyone knows what is going on with the Currie and the LIFE packs or has a better idea how to resolve any of these issues please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
I almost threw the LIFEPO4 packs I built in the dumpster. I thought they were shot. The LVC or what I thought was the LVC on the controller for the front Bafang motor. It continually cut out and makes a clicking or clunking noise. It gets worse if I attempt to use both motors but still does it if I turn off the breaker on the rear motor.

It is the Currie set up with the 12S - LIFE going to the front Bafang via the 18 amp Greentime controller. It did it last night on the way home but thought it was due to low voltage and SAG. However today it did it as soon as I started riding the bike on full charge.

The rear chain drive works with no sign of LVC but it is really low power. Probably less power at 56 or 53V than when it was hooked up at 43V or 12S. I figured the LIFEPO4 packs were severely damaged from soldering and were worthless.

I ran the 12S - LIFE in series with the SLA last night for 56V but today ran them with the 3S - LIFE for 15S - LIFEPO4 or 53v but no gain in power. The 1,000W - 36V motor could be a 500W motor or less. It is not much better than the Bafang when it was running good.

I was almost ready to throw the LIFE packs in the garbage dumpster but decided to hook them up to the 26" Diamondback Outlook. That bike sports dual Bafang motors and identical 17 amp controllers. Not greentime controllers but a different brand. The Greentime controllers are on the front of the Currie and 26" dual suspension.

There was no hesitation or noise or power cutting out with the Outlook and 17 amp + 17 amp or 34 amp total setup. Both Bafang motors ran flawlessly. The 20 mph top speed achieved quickly with both Bafangs working together. I rode it about 4 blocks and at full throttle. One throttle for both controllers and a single 40 amp DC breaker.

I really do not know what to think. I don't know why the Bafang on the Currie is clunking and the power cuts in and out and I do not know why the 36V - 1,000W rated chain drive on the back has no power regardless of voltage. 43V , 53V or 56V. No difference. Perhaps 12S or 43V may even have slightly more power. I figured with the voltage SAG it would do 30 mph with 53 or 56V. It is lucky if it will do 20 mph. Maybe 22 or 23 mph @ 43V or 12S - LIFE which SAGS to around 33V under load.

At this point in time I just do not know. If the LIFEPO4 packs are completely shot then how do they run dual 17 amp controllers perfectly ????? All the LIFEPO4 packs are on the charger. The two 6S in series are charging at 43.6V and the 3S is balance charging on the 6S - LiPo charger on LIFE balance mode - 3S at 3 amps.

I am very confused. This just makes no sense. I ran 15S - LIFE about a week or so ago with the 1,800W brushless motor and 1,500W controller and top speed was 25 mph. It never cut out once. I just do not know if my LIFEPO4 packs are complete garbage or I have a bad Bafang motor or controller AND a defective or < 500W motor on the Currie.

I ordered a second 22 Ah - SLA only a few days ago. Less than a week I think. It was more than I wanted to spend. $45 but arrived quick. I guess if I order 1 more I will be able to compare 36V - LIFE to 36V - SLA. I may just order 2 more. Then I can also compare 15S - LIFE to 48V - SLA.

There is a ton of blogs on hooking SLA and LIFE in parallel. Since the resting voltage of LIFE is higher than SLA it feeds the SLA. However with the lower capacity LIFE cells the SLAs might feed the LIFE after running a few miles. Also might be less SAG with both in parallel. Not sure ?

I think I will order this when I order two more 22 Ah - SLAs

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=asc_df_B013PKYILS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241994092016&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14038635494996441953&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023608&hvtargid=pla-522037414964&psc=1

It is a larger screen. I will be able to see exactly what is happening with the 36V - Currie chain drive and every e bike motor I have. Not sure what the issue is with the Bafang on the front of the Currie though. Could be a damaged motor or defective controller.

If anyone knows what is going on with the Currie and the LIFE packs or has a better idea how to resolve any of these issues please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Sounds like your hall sensors are bad, not connected, or shorted. The first bicycle I put my hub on had a spinout and the hall sensor ground got ripped from the controller, it just clunked a whole bunch and wouldn't move. A quick solder job and a new bike with dual torque arms and I was back in business.
 
Sounds like your hall sensors are bad, not connected, or shorted.

yes.

It was the sensor plug. It was not all the way plugged in. I just rode it about 4 miles with just the Bafang and runs perfect again. I am going to hook the 36V brush controller back up for the rear chain drive. I ordered a third 22Ah - SLA to run the rear motor. The wimpy LIFEPO4s are perfect for geared hub motors. I need real batteries for 1,000W chain drives.

I ran three 22 Ah SLAs back at the start of this post and they put out more power than 12S - LIFEPO4. They will last a long time as only need to run the SLAs up hills or when I want to do a top speed test.

I also ordered a cool power meter so can compare the output from the 12S - 19 Ah LIFEPO4s vs. 36V - 22Ah - SLA.

s-l1600 (1).jpg

That is all I am ordering this month. It will give me more range also as the LIFEPO4 cells are over rated. I do not believe they are even close to their rated capacity. 3,800 mah. 3.8 Ah * 5 = 19 Ah. The two 10 Ah - SLAs that came stock with the Currie went about the same distance as these LIFEPO4s.

I do not believe I damaged the cells soldering them. I think they were sitting around on a shelf for decades and are low quality and low capacity cells to begin with. They do re charge quickly though and good for short trips < 6 miles total. With the SLAs I can get about 20 miles total if I only go about 10 to 15 mph.

I am still looking at moving. I have the two 13S power modules and a healthy 13S - 20 Ah - e bay Lion pack in the van. I need a BMS for the power modules. I would like a Bluetooth BMS to run the power modules in parallel with the factory e bay pack for greater range. If not a good idea then how about two Bluetooth BMSs. One for the two power modules and one for the e bay 20 Ah pack. I would need to open it up and unhook the BMS it has. I should get decent range as well as power if all are in parallel.

The reason I do NOT like any BMS that is NOT Bluetooth is sitting in my ammo box. It is those hover board packs. Each has a 10S - BMS rated at 15 amps. I unhooked one and tested the cells on my external 5 in 1 meter. It had two cells between 2 and 3V and one way over 5V. The 10S - 4P Laudation pack which was in parallel with them was ok. All cells were 4.18 to 4.19V. The BMS is only 15 amps though which by itself wont run anything I have so am storing that in a black plastic hyper tough box.

I still have a bunch of loose 18650 cells. Some of them I tested and wrote the voltage and internal resistance on each cell. Some need to be extracted from those 3S plastic cases. I need a safe place to build and charge those. NOT a walk in closet on the third floor with no ventilation. :roll: Until then I will run the LIFE packs , SLAs and maybe LTOs if I ever finish them.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Joe?
 

Attachments

  • 19171724-A220-425B-A43F-CFB9291223D6.jpeg
    19171724-A220-425B-A43F-CFB9291223D6.jpeg
    794.4 KB · Views: 798
.
...
Full circle?

Witness the return to heavy, inefficient and expensive Lead Acid batteries!
3x 12V 22Ah SLA (Lead acid):
12hr charge recommended
39V (120 cycles @ minimal discharge rate) (50? cycles @ typical discharge rate)
1C initial discharge (sag) to ~33V
≦7Ah usable @ 1C (22A) discharge rate ≦11Ah usable @ 0.5C (11A) discharge rate
40lb
$120+
vs
10s4p 13Ah+ MJ1 Li-ion cells (recently recommended bargain)
3hr charge recommended
41V (life extending lower charged voltage) ≧ 800 cycles (limiting DODed >34V) ≧ 1200? cycles
1C initial discharge (sag) to ~39V
>12Ah usable (at life preserving charged\discharged voltages)
5lb
$60

At 3.74A discharge rate 22Ah SLA can last 120 full cycles till 80% (12hr charge)
Dead lead.jpg
1C (22A) discharges might last <50 cycles till 80%

Review Lead Acid Woes
 
Looking at building more LIFEPO4. I need the better 6 Ah cells and a lot of them. It takes me a while to build them and do it right. It could take more than a couple of months.

If I move I can start running Lion again but if stuck here longer than will not. The SLAs will do the trick temporary. I only need them for 100 cycles or less.

I can only reasonably charge 12S - LIFEPO4 in a restaurant as will fit in a back pack. I will need an outside AC charging outlet for LTO. No way I am hauling 20 or 24 of those in McDonalds to plug in the outlet. :lol:

A public library with an outside AC outlet might be the answer for LTO but the librarian can come out and tell me to unhook it. :roll: level 1 charging stations are very few and scattered. Just started calling around and got absolutely nowhere on that. Otherwise LTO would be more practical. 30 minutes for 50 or 60 miles. Or in my case more like 20 minutes for 15 to 20 miles as I only got 18 Ah - LTO.

I do have a 15 amp 900W - 54.6V charger though but not many people would let me plug it in to their building. That is my issue. I kind of wish I did not buy them. I could have bought a 60V - 36 Ah - LIFEPO4 pack factory built. :oops:

Why I need to run SLA again for awhile. The 12S - LIFEPO4 is only good for < 10 miles and needs charging. If I do not feel like the inconvenience of hauling them inside somewhere.

If I have the SLAs to fall back on then can get at least 15 maybe 20 miles round trip. Most controllers have the LVC cutoff so limits the range of LIFEPO4.

I will need to order and build a large 18S - 6P - pack from those for 36 Ah. Not the wimpy questionable 19 Ah I am currently running. That will take some time. So the SLAs will be useful until then. I will upgrade any controller that is NOT rated at 60V to 60V. :mrgreen:

Except.

For Bafangs and wimpy 36V chain drives I will use the 12S - LIFE I run now or the SLAs. I will keep the 20" Turbo at 15S - LIFE I got now. The 26" - 48V direct drive , 1,800W brushless motor and 3 kilowatt brushless motors will all run the new 18S - 6P - LIFEPO4 pack.

batteryhookupcells6000mah_1024x1024@2x.png

Was hoping my soldering skills are now good enough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGYHLPv7pDM&t=270s

I did not drop solder balls !!!

Is that proper tinning of the cells and wires ?

Soldering technique ?

If not please post a video of how it should be done.

26650 cells are NOT the same thing as 18650. 18650 has smaller surface area so takes less time to heat up to melting / perfect temperature for good bond.

I have yet to see a video of anyone soldering 26650 cells ; yet a lot of opinions out there when I do it wrong !!!!! :(

I was just hoping that video would be good enough to work for $300 to $400 in better cells ???????

I do NOT want to waste the money if I am soldering them wrong. :roll:

Please let me know ????????

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
I am utterly flabbergasted at your refusal to perform the simple test that would determine your LiFe's:
actual capacity;
pinpoint any weak banks;
determine if any defective or damaged cells!

Where is the logic in building a new LiFe without determining what went wrong with with your last build?

12V 4s LiFe =12.8V
24V 8s LiFe =25.6V
36V 12s LiFe = 38.4V
48V 16s LiFe = 51.2V
60V 20s LiFe = 64V

64V 20Ah (actual) pre spot welded 4p LiFe new cells for $220. - (requires separation from 20p bricks)
 
Where is the logic in building a new LiFe without determining what went wrong with with your last build?

Nothing went wrong.

I do a capacity test every time I run them. When I travel only 6 miles and the packs drop from 96 to 99% to 25% it indicates that the cells are low capacity and none of them are even close to rated capacity. That is NOT something that can be fixed.

They are decades old cells that sat around too long. That is how I got fooled. The advertisement on Battery Hookups website used to say Military grade overstock. It no longer does. Not sure when they started making 26650 cells but would be willing to bet there was an inch of dust on those boxes when the military sold them to Battery Hookup. :lol:

A few cell banks have lower standing voltage than the others. It is normal for old cells like that. They may not all be the same age. Tearing apart the packs and attempting to re solder any cell banks because they do not look perfect or performing a capacity test on each cell bank seems like a waste of time because it is not something worth trying to fix. It would simply do more damage and then may be un usable.

They will run every e bike I own for safe , legal < 25 mph operation. They also charge from 22% to full in about 40 minutes with the 10 amp and 30 minutes with the 15 amp charger.

I would rather spend my time building a new , better 36 Ah pack that is 18S - 60V. It just seems like a better use of my time instead of wasting more money ordering more of those low capacity cells to replace cell banks that drop to 90% ( without an active balancer) when the rest are 96 to 99%. That is what the active balancers are for. Now that 90% cell is at 92 or 94% or within 5% of the rest of the cell banks.

I suppose if I left the active balancers plugged in for YEARS they could drain the pack but think they stop working when voltage is too low. When I did not run them for over a week and tested voltage all banks were good. One or two out of 12 were at 92 or 93% but the rest in the 96 to 99% range.

Another good sign that they are in fair condition is the active balancers rarely light up and for only a minute or less. If it were working all the time that would be a really bad sign. Therefore active balancers are useful tools in determining the overall health of a pack. The more they light up the more unbalanced the pack.

That rule of thumb only works over time. NOT the first time hooked up to an unbalanced pack but after several charge / discharge cycles. If a lot of red lights for several minutes after running more than two or three cycles THEN Houston has a problem!!!

One 6S pack is all 98 to 99%. The other sits at 96 to 97% with one or two banks at 92 to 93%. The 3S - 5P is 96 to 97%. One or two slightly lower cell banks out of 15 is not worth tearing them apart especially with active balancers.

60V 20s LiFe = 64V

20S - LIFEPO4 sounds good but what about CAPS on 60V controllers ???? \

Cost will be > $400 with shipping. It might be a couple of months. The cells that are together may not be the same grade cells. I am looking for brand new cells with a manufacture date of < 3 years. Not decades old cells like I bought.

Running voltage is 3.2 - 3.3V but standing voltage is about 3.6V.

SO

20 * 3.6V = 72V NOT 64V. 64V might show up on the power meter when running. The multimeter and controller will see 72V.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
One 6S pack is all 98 to 99%. The other sits at 96 to 97% with one or two banks at 92 to 93%. The 3S - 5P is 96 to 97%. One or two slightly lower cell banks out of 15 is not worth tearing them apart especially with active balancers.

60V 20s LiFe = 64V
Simple test requires no disassembly and 25% on your meter may have no relation to actual capacity!
So simple to measure actual, true, capacity guess you're just afraid to find out?


12V 4s LiFe =12.8V
24V 8s LiFe =25.6V
36V 12s LiFe = 38.4V
48V 16s LiFe = 51.2V
60V 20s LiFe = 64V

Just like 12s is considered 36V, 20s is considered 60V.
Caps (capacitors) are typically installed at 150% of working voltage, so 60V controller should have 100V caps, certainly not 63V.
Cap limits are typically to be concerned about when eg pushing 36V (42V) through a 24V controller, etc.
 
Simple test requires no disassembly and 22% on your meter may have no relation to actual capacity!
So simple to measure actual, true, capacity guess you're just afraid to find out?

Not sure what that means.

I can discharge lithium batteries to do capacity or just run the packs. Only difference is running is faster discharge. The measurement of capacity is tested before and after a load applied over a specific time. No test equipment could be more accurate than an e bike. A device to discharge would be an inferior way to do the testing. All I need is the new power meter when I get it and a camera to record. A Bluetooth BMS would show data.

Not even sure what testing you referred to ??? I know both LiPo chargers do discharge mode. But is way slower than real e bike so not a good tool to measure ??????

For a cell or two out of 15 that is slightly lower capacity an active balancer is the answer. I see no point in discussing it unless a battery actually fails.

1. will not accept charge.

or

2. Will not put out current.

or

3. Has a ridiculously low capacity like < 5 miles.

Then I need to rip the pack apart and start testing shit.

A better use of my time would be

s-l1600.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334196662375?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D235119%26meid%3D0a841ab85b8244f49c05e3d9261fa6f0%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D254356745297%26itm%3D334196662375%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWithPLXWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A3341966623750a841ab85b8244f49c05e3d9261fa6f0%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAACAMr5%252BFmPJze70lX%252B%252BwE5FY9DrI1klIuqeLB1o%252BDhacFdTB25KGB0sTVsH3HMJ0KELd7HsdDIUR9DWWZ2dwEHnjW1v4Cr7uIiO%252F17oYfFtIzqbWkYPA3f89pH0SPXjMdCaInekNgiAyhJqptCd%252BjEk4w546m%252FTwC7BqPcCJg7WSYLG8c61tFMMLchpLKHv76yk%252BSfAa4XZmgJmZ6FF3Gs4JOSBbwDpBphoEfifCgAbIRksAFB%252B3cRekP4MEDOMUQBjFEVvYciJUUQTBwlWcqC1YIad2IhEcM4h3K6PmwP6x2Ug6NFVe2oObK%252F3wucH7R2pRX102RBM8i%252BpAk77sdK%252BQDb1KNUUjKDbBEOxCX8k1qQj0ZzAN7OTJq%252FJ%252Fg7QIPB237HOh0L9%252BmxKj4xT8wy4St8WATcRrEqaQS3W8G6VoY%252FE%252F9Py7vFoeQDFElgFYCCLtNoGbE8vmxgxWgms5mLeDsnwfwLATZ%252FXYSWnYIKn%252BhIfidTQpqaj%252FUw8RP0qzw%252B7%252F3Kcje97rd1JY3l81n%252BmT2IvkdvQeQ2SLXY3UJpSErkuDbtE5a%252BKZ%252FT8EZCv69o5DQSdeMXzMdLtt4ENOTv5KU09llF3gvC1%252FeRmjjUIzTnzC29BIl7rmokawfNl459CK6rGcl30HRSnVCzOGik0SR8lq0wH%252FEgEqtoQWv28KsD%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675&epid=8049624302

Yea.

I should swap the rear Currie motor 1,000W - 36V with the 36V gear reduction motor that was on it.

That way I could over volt the 1,000W motor to 1,500W.

1,000W / 36 * 55 = 1,527.7W.

The 800W 36V chain is 1,22.2W @ 55V.

Total power - 2,749W.

Gearing 46 to 48 mph.

20" e bike.

Perfect for gearing that shit. :lol:

Yea.

The 3rd - SLA is in.

I will be running the 36V chain drive on the Currie with 36V - SLA next week and the front Bafang with LIFEPO4. The wimpy 36V LIFE will be on light duty to all my geared hub motors. Six all together and 15S for the 20" Turbo.

I can record data when I get the new power meter. I can compare the 12S - LIFE to the 36V - 22 Ah - SLA. That will be on your next episode of

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Future episodes will include the LTO chronicles.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
DrkAngel said:
Simple test requires no disassembly and 22% on your meter may have no relation to actual capacity!
So simple to measure actual, true, capacity guess you're just afraid to find out?

Not sure what that means.

I can discharge lithium batteries to do capacity or just run the packs. Only difference is running is faster discharge. The measurement of capacity is tested before and after a load applied over a specific time. No test equipment could be more accurate than an e bike. A device to discharge would be an inferior way to do the testing. All I need is the new power meter when I get it and a camera to record. A Bluetooth BMS would show data.

Not even sure what testing you referred to ??? I know both LiPo chargers do discharge mode. But is way slower than real e bike so not a good tool to measure ??????

For a cell or two out of 15 that is slightly lower capacity an active balancer is the answer. I see no point in discussing it unless a battery actually fails.

1. will not accept charge.

or

2. Will not put out current.

or

3. Has a ridiculously low capacity like < 5 miles.

Then I need to rip the pack apart and start testing shit.
LC. out.
If you do not even want to know why your LiFe is performing so poorly ... please suffer in silence!
 
If you do not even want to know why your LiFe is performing so poorly ... please suffer in silence!

Not sure why I can not ever be right about anything. The law of averages is nobody can be wrong all the time. I could be right about an inch of dust on those cells. :lol: It could explain poor performance. Piss poor. Old degraded cells from the get go.

Also I can be right on the method of testing capacity. YOU are the guy that told me about the first power meter and I bought it.

It records a lot of important data. Data that can be used to determine capacity of batteries. I am not sure how a different test cold do it better ????

What test you refer to is probably 50 to 150 pages back.

I would look at it if I knew what it is.

I do remember reading something about a 100W light bulb but again the power meter records amps , watts and voltage over real time. That plus a multimeter and cell balancer for checking should be more accurate than any other load.

I got those useless 150W heaters in the van I could hook up but again is not a normal e bike load so a power meter works better.

I can test packs / cell banks and send data.

I have several external balancers as well as the 6S - 200W LiPo Sky charger and a 400W LiPo Mega charger.

I just do not know what test you are referring to ??? Nor do I know how it could be more accurate than a meter/meters testing the packs in real time under normal e bike loads ???

You do have me curious however. Could you please explain that ?????

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
DrkAngel said:
If you do not even want to know why your LiFe is performing so poorly ... please suffer in silence!

Not sure why I can not ever be right about anything. The law of averages is nobody can be wrong all the time. I could be right about an inch of dust on those cells. :lol: It could explain poor performance. Piss poor. Old degraded cells from the get go.

What test you refer to is probably 50 to 150 pages back.

I would look at it if I knew what it is.

I can test packs / cell banks and send data.

I have several external balancers as well as the 6S - 200W LiPo Sky charger and a 400W LiPo Mega charger.

I just do not know what test you are referring to ??? Nor do I know how it could be more accurate than a meter testing the packs in real time under normal e bike loads ???

You do have me curious however. Could you please explain that ?????

Thanks.

LC. out.
Yeah, you have probably bitched and whined and cried a hundred times about your lousy LiFe since I instructed you on how to properly diagnose and pinpoint for any problem.
 
yea.

You are right.

I do whine a lot.

Maybe I should search for some cheese to go with the whine.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Problem is I never listened to any good reasonable advice and properly spot welded and bought the necessary things to professionally build a LIFEPO4 pack. I took short cuts and did it my way and then continuously complained about the outcome.

My point however is how much difference in performance would that professionally built pack be over the packs I built ???? My theory is not a lot. Maybe 15% maximum. Kind of like growing weed. Hydro , dirt , inside or outside has some difference. However the seed (genetics) plays the most important part. As long as the lighting is adequate per square foot for each stage of growth.

You have to look at the cells in a pack. The quality of those Trumps everything else. I am right this time because no matter what tests DA or anyone else suggests I should do. It will NOT change the quality of the LIFEPO4 cells I bought , built and am running.

The lesson is to make better choices in the future when ordering stuff online.

The packs are hardly worth my time testing. I can actually run them when I want to

:mrgreen: Rather spend the time riding than testing. When the time comes I can not ride with them , then will start testing.

I will post videos with the SLAs , New power meter . Multimeter data. Android camera and pocket camera. I will compare 12S - LIFE to 36V - SLA. I can do the different test DA likes also but want to compare to my tests and do scientific tests with e bikes on this post. I am not trying to piss anyone off especially DA. I just want to test e bikes. Motors , controllers and batteries. I want to shoot videos and calculate data for performance for different e bikes for educational purposes. I will put each of my builds thru every test there is and post it.

The goal for all ES members is to make EV happen and move forwards as a group. Not quarrel over insignificant issues.

I am willing to follow forum rules and stay on topic. However be creative and productive. Sometimes the creative and productive parts rock the boat. I am hoping you all can continue to work on that with me.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
.
...
8s LiFe vs 2x 12V SLA (24V)

file.php


Save you a lot of "testing"?

Translated to:
12s LiFe vs 3x SLA (36V)
for direct comparison.


LiFe vs SLA.jpg
 
Your graphs say lithium batteries.

Lithium ion ?

lion and LIFEPO4 are not the same. Neither is LTO.

You told me that LiPo and Lion are the same. I did not know that.

I seriously doubt LIFEPO4 run that good. Maybe LTO ??

All I know is the third SLA got delivered as well as the new power meter.

I still need a de soldering tool so I can practice soldering on those old dead cells.

I found that online but find it really hard to believe. I don't buy it for a minute. I ran SLA before and don't SAG nearly as much as LIFE. I will know Monday when I hook them up to the rear brush motor on the Currie. I can record data with the new meter and switch from SLA to fully charged LIFE.

My guess is the yellow line would be the SLA and blue line the LIFEPO4 and Lion and LTO the red line. That would be accurate. Someone was smoking something really good when they created that. :lol: :lol:

When I first run LIFE like the first mile or so they do seem to act a little bit like Lion. They have some pep. However they quickly lose that and become very sluggish especially when the load is > 500 or 750W. 350W Bafangs run great though with LIFE. Even two in parallel. When I ran 36V - SLA before I did not notice the lack of power as much until they were old. They would go at least 5 to 10 miles before a noticeable power decrease. Not two or three miles.

What is really confusing however is the LIFEPO4 packs when at 15S do run the 1,800W brushless motor with the 1,500W controller. There seems to be no real decrease in power after a few miles either compared to the brush motor. However 25 mph is the top speed and the motor is geared for around 30 mph ??????? I remember the 20 Ah - 13S factory Lion pack did 28 mph with that bike.

I have not tried the LIFEPO4 with the 26" - 1,000W direct drive. That thing is power hungry though. It might not even work with 15S - LIFE. I might need all 24 - LTOs to get decent performance from that.

Lithium-vs-lead-acid-discharge-curves.jpg

Still working on moving. Looking at a trailer next week. If I have a private back yard I will build a picnic table and maybe can try out my spot welder. I can use a fire extinguisher and a 5 pound bucket of water. I might start building 18650 packs again. They do have the best range and energy density.

I am hoping for a shed or a garage to store e bikes as well. Solar panels on the roof. A small solar charging station. Those lawn mower batteries are cheap. $24 for about 33 to 35 Ah. - 225 cold cranking amps. Four or six of those would be a great start and can charge e bike batteries.

If the SLAs are still working I can parallel them all up and use that for energy storage as well. Also old lion that is not good enough for running an e bike. I can stack them up for 12V and tape them up good and stick in ammo boxes. All I need is battery isolators which are common for 12V. Not so much for 36V as was looking to do that with the SLAs and LIFEPO4s.

A lot of people have been hooking LIFE in parallel with SLA without an isolator though and they say they run good together'

I need to ask DA. though what his opinion is. I have a choice to run them separate to either the front Bafang or the rear chain drive. Which ever makes the chain drive go faster I will use.

Would there be a big performance increase if I run them in parallel ???

If less SAG and a power increase then would be worth it. Otherwise not.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
Your graphs say lithium batteries.

Lithium ion ?

lion and LIFEPO4 are not the same. Neither is LTO.
"Lion" Li-ion is Lithium-ion, most commonly referring to LiCoO₂ Lithium Cobalt but inclusive of nearly all Lithium batteries.
LiFePO₄ is Lithium Iron Phosphate, which is demonstrated in graph.
 
Well I see that at 22 amps or 1C , the SLAs will get < 40% capacity. Capacity is 22 AH so only about 8 Ah.

The LIFEPO4s are 19 Ah but only go about 5 or 6 miles and are at around 25% capacity according to the meter ???????

Not sure but think a SLA battery is considered empty at 11.5V right ?????

If I measure the SLAs after 6 miles or a simple trip to Wall-Mart and back and they are > 12V or close to 12.5V then all those graphs are wrong. I will be doing that next week.

My guess is the SLA will be empty or around 11.5V * 3 = 34.5V somewhere around 15 miles at 1C and the LIFEPO4 packs will trip the LVC before 10 miles at 1C.

I will want to use a phone app. to measure miles and be like a couple blocks away when the LVC happens though.

I have not rode SLA in awhile but know they will go farther than my LIFEPO4 packs. No graph will tell me different. I will need to measure voltage and test the theory out in real time.

Not sure if I should spend the money to build a 36 Ah - LIFEPO4 pack. If the 19 Ah pack I got now has a usable range of < 10 miles then I am paying $400 to get a 20 mile pack. Not sure if worth it. I would like some honest answer from anybody who has run LIFEPO4.

The graphs DA. posts and the graph I downloaded show LIFEPO4 to have tons of capacity. It shows that the 19 AH packs I got now should go 20 miles when in reality the LVC will trip at 10 miles and will be pushing it home that far. It is why I ordered SLAs. I know this as I pushed the Currie 3 miles home the third time I used the LIFEPO4 packs and it was about 10 total miles.

How would the graph look if I ran the SLAs in parallel with 12S - LIFEPO4 ??????? Would there be any benefits in doing it ?????

I am NOT letting other ES members do all the work doing the research this time. I found this page and see that it has been done before. I would still like some feedback as these pages are over 10 years old. 2008. Almost 15 years ago.

https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7740

by safe » Dec 06 2008 9:48am

The whole point of running the SLA's in parallel is to cut the "C" rate. So it makes no sense to run them separately.

But the other issue is about balancing of the two paths (SLA and "Other") and what happens when the SLA's start to drain in capacity.

I've found that the SLA's do indeed "balance" with the "Other" chemistry, but that balancing simply adjusts the rate that the two paths drain. If one chemistry is more energetic than the SLA's (like NiCads, NiMh, or LiFePO4) they will prevent the "sag" by participating more in the delivery of energy.

The "problem" is that when the SLA's finally do start to run low (as the overall system runs low) the individual cells revert back to their normal tendency to become imbalanced. The "runt" cell is still there no matter if you ran pure SLA's or with a parallel assist.

:arrow: The moral of the story is:

"Putting SLA's in parallel with another chemistry does NOT eliminate 'runts'."

WOW !!!

The runt cell. I never even knew there was such a thing until I just read that. :roll: However if it can happen even when NOT in parallel then I guess it wont make any difference.

I am thinking that in parallel I could get a performance increase from the rear chain as less SAG so more usable wattage going to the controller :idea:

The one guy on that post has a switch for putting in parallel or NOT. Since fast charging is NOT possible for the SLA without damage my idea would be to plan my trip so could run either SOLO but simply plug them in to a XT60 when running together. No fancy switch required.

I would have a choice of running together for the first 1/2 of the trip or the second half as could run the LIFE - SOLO until at around 25% capacity and then recharge to FULL then put in parallel to get back home. I would NOT have the option of running together for the whole trip though unless it is less than the capacity of both in parallel.

I would have to see how far each goes. I already know that the LIFE packs are limited to < 10 miles. NOT sure about the SLA. I am only guessing they can go further. Hopefully together I can get somewhere between 15 and 20 miles. If I can then will be worth doing especially if I can get a little better performance from the rear chain drive on the Currie.

I am looking for a better controller. Electric scooter parts has 40 amp - 36V brush controllers for about $60. I would like to find something for about $20 but do NOT see it. Just those ones that have a speed control knob for a throttle.

I am going back to read more on that 2008 post.

If anyone wants to post on their experience with LIFEPO4 running SOLO or in parallel with SLA or LTOs please post. My LISHEN - LTOs are rated at 18 Ah. The LIFE - 19 Ah but a sketchy 19 Ah.

OK. That is the end summery of that 2008 post.

Balancers are still too expensive. I'm just fishing for ways to balance my SLA's for around $40 and this "hack" could do it.

I suspect that since this balancer is looking for a range that is at most 26 volts that my four cell 48 volt SLA set would need to use two of them. So I'm already up to $80. :(

At present I've figured out a "caveman balancer" that exploits the parallel connection of the SLA's and it seems to be working, but I'd like to drop the NiCads and go back to just the SLA's one day. The SLA's without a balancer create "runts" too fast and it gets expensive to replace the "runt" all the time.

--------------------

As for the main topic:

"Yes" we can conclude that mixing chemistries works great. You can change the behavior of the battery by altering the way you mix the chemistries in both series and parallel configurations.

SLA + LiFePO4 or NiCad ----> Parallel : Eliminates SLA "Sag".

SLA + LiFePO4 or NiCad ----> Series : SLA's placed in parallel can reduce the "C" rate and give low tech balancing. SLA "Sag" will be present.

There was a link to some sort of charger to use for the SLA to prevent a runt cell however that link went nowhere as almost 15 years old. I am basically trying to shed some new light on a very old topic.

All I know is it could work for awhile but eventually will want a larger higher capacity LIFEPO4 pack or switch back to Lion/LiPo.

I remember DA. saying that solor power is a waste of $$$$$ as will only get 11 cents of energy.

HOWEVER!!!!!

What if the grid goes down !!!!!! The unthinkable !!!!

It would be nice to have some energy that is renewable off grid. something beats nothing !!!! Those old SLAs even at 50% capacity could work and battery isolators for 12V are common. Four to six - $24 - 225 cranking amp lawn mower batteries are around 33 Ah each. Add some old SLAs as well as a bunch of 18650 cells using 12V battery isolators for each chemistry.

Looking at either building a shed or getting a pre fab if I get a trailer or finding a place with a garage to put solar panels on the roof. Inside will be a charging station and all my e bike batteries fully charged on a charger 24/7.

Now to my biggest question. What is the difference between a battery isolator and a diode ?

diod.png

That illustration could represent the hooking of different battery chemistries to a controller just delete the solar panels and switch the DC to AC converter to an e bike controller. :idea:

Obviously will not be doing all those different chemistries together for an e bike but could do two different battery chemistries using the diodes but any two chemistry combinations, NOT just LIFE and SLA. ???????

Not sure where to buy or order diodes but wondering what the difference would be running the LIFEPO4 in parallel with the SLAs using diodes. They would still share the load but one battery chemistry would NOT feed the other. Would that lower the chance of the runt cell discussed in that 2008 thread or make no difference ????

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

Attachments

  • ebike.png
    ebike.png
    24.1 KB · Views: 439
.
...
Empty?

"36V" during discharge = "empty" voltage
18S SLA hits, is considered, "empty" @ 30V LVC
12s LiFe hits, is considered, "empty" @ 30V LVC
10S LiCo hits, is considered, "empty" @ 30V LVC

"48V" during discharge "empty" voltage
(48.0V) 24S SLA hits, is considered, "empty" @ 40V LVC
(51.2V)16s LiFe hits, is considered, "empty" @ 40V LVC (37.5V for 15s)
(50.4V) 14S LiCo hits, is considered, "empty" @ 40V LVC (37.2V for 13s, 34.3V for 12s)

Static "empty" voltage varies widely by specific formulation!

latecurtis said:
The LIFEPO4s are 19 Ah but only go about 5 or 6 miles and are at around 25% capacity according to the meter ???????
You really should do the full rated discharge to determine actual Ah below "25%" and then the metered charge to determine actual Ah capacity. 1 small part of the "proper" testing I've been recommending.
Additionally, speaker wire is not designed for or rated for electric motor use!?!

[youtube]GnVHsRiXqO8[/youtube]

OFC (real) vs CCA (fake?) speaker wire

[youtube]LH7s18qn2LE[/youtube]
 
latecurtis said:
Well I see that at 22 amps or 1C , the SLAs will get < 40% capacity. Capacity is 22 AH so only about 8 Ah.
New SLA At 1C outputs about 30%
latecurtis said:
The LIFEPO4s are 19 Ah but only go about 5 or 6 miles and are at around 25% capacity according to the meter ???????
Don't rely on cheap meter for anything, do the proper capacity test!
latecurtis said:
I remember DA. saying that solor power is a waste of $$$$$ as will only get 11 cents of energy.

HOWEVER!!!!!

What if the grid goes down !!!!!! The unthinkable !!!!

It would be nice to have some energy that is renewable off grid. something beats nothing !!!!
500w solar panels likely cost $500+
Each battery chemistry will require it's own dedicated charger\discharger.
Bargain LiCo can store and deliver @ ~$100kWh
Bargain LiFe can store and deliver @ ~$200kWh
Bargain LTO can store and deliver @ ~$500kWh
SLA requires 2500wh (from solar panel) to charge 2kWh storage, but only outputs 1kWh (at.5C) for >$320kWh
(SLA requires 250% more solar panels for same usable stored electricity)

I do use solar panels and old partially rejuvenated SLA (free) to power the watering, cooling fans and lights in my high tunnel (~greenhouse}. Automatic fans and watering during daylight and light for occasional harvesting and such at night. Fresh Green Onions, Parsley, Cilantro, Oregano and Celery all Winter long. Automatic cooling fans required because, even in Winter, sunny days push temp above 100℉, too hot for cold weather plants or comfortable lounging or reading.
2 fan cooling methodology
#1 fan in peak, 80℉ thermostatically controlled at mid height, mixes outside air into hottest peak air creating a slight over-pressure for gentle even cooling.
#2 fan in opposite peak, 90℉ thermostatically controlled at mid height, additionally engages to vent hottest peak air.
I found a pair of aftermaket 12V radiator fans at a great price. Limited with 12V variable speed module.
In season, collected rainwater is delivered @ 15minutes daily through soaker hoses, 12V timer and water pump.
Manual watering to cold hardy crops during Winter months. Just planted a bed of sprouted Garlic inside.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Thanks for posting DA. That is a lot of good information.

I am thinking I got a lot of range from the 22Ah SLAs back in NY when in reality I mostly rode them around town like I do here < 10 mile round trips.

At 30% 22 Ah would be about 7. So 7 miles at 22 amps * 33V after SAG = 726W - 20 to 22 mph. However I do not go that fast all the time so should be able to get around 10 miles if average speed is 15 mph and .75C discharge.

If I combine with LIFEPO4 in parallel then the SLAs should be averaging .5C or less as the LIFEPO4 packs will split the load. SAG should also be less so the controller and motor should see an increase in power.

Also the capacity should add up. At .5C discharge then according to DAs graph I will get 50% capacity or 11 Ah from the SLA and probably a couple extra miles from the LIFEPO4 so 15 to 20 miles range at reasonable speed of 15 mph average ????

By themselves my guess is 7 to 10 miles from each so combined somewhere between 15 and 20 miles.

That would be a great improvement from just LIFEPO4 alone and hopefully a little less SAG so a slight increase in performance.

I feel like a real idiot ordering $600 worth of LTOs and ordering those cheap LIFEPO4 cells I had to solder when I could have ordered those. :oops:

https://batteryhookup.com/products/new-3-2v-25ah-lifepo4-topband-navitas-prismatic

topband_1024x1024@2x.pngtopband.jpg

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Probably best if you could wake up from your irrational fear of 18650 Lithium and pump up your 48V 6.4Ah(13s4p=46.8V) Panasonic "Power Modules" with 2 more, w/auto balancing, adding up to 48V 25.6Ah for only $70. Been setting untouched, except for taking off the quality balance boards, for how many months?
You must use a BMS! Parallel with the 1st ones for full balancing!

imageedit_123_8748512282_grande.png


I went with 6x new 48V 6Ah (14s4p=51.1V) modules @ $39 each, (48V 36Ah for $236 (36lb) or 48V 24Ah for $158 (24lb) + 48V 12Ah $78 (12lb)), still available @ $49 each.
imageedit_74_8790914562_grande.png
 
latecurtis said:
My point however is how much difference in performance would that professionally built pack be over the packs I built ????

Seriously?

Professionally built will function as built, yours are cobbled failures.
 
Probably best if you could wake up from your irrational fear of 18650 Lithium and pump up your 48V 6.4Ah(13s4p=46.8V) Panasonic "Power Modules" with 2 more, w/auto balancing, adding up to 48V 25.6Ah for only $70. Been setting untouched, except for taking off the quality balance boards, for how many months?
You must use a BMS! Parallel with the 1st ones for full balancing!

OH.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NnIjJaQ_gY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOwhah8AifU

Those two videos will beg to differ.

Thanks for posting though.

I need to move so have to put all my funds in that direction. I really do not want to sell the LTOs and lose a lot of money. I guess I should figure out how to finish building them to run and portable charge. After all they have 35,000 cycles. I wont need to constantly buy more batteries every year or so if I can figure it out.

Just got back from the post office with the new power meter and #3 - SLA. I was thinking maybe one of those luggage carriers that fold up with a handle and small wheels is not a bad idea. A lot of people use them and they look normal. If I could use small bungee cords to strap it to a large rear rack I could remove the 20S - LTO pack from the triangle and set it inside the luggage carrier and plug in my 54.6V - 15 amp charger.

Then wheel it inside a McDonalds or Wende's or any restaurant or coffee shop that has an AC plug. I could even set my cell phone on top and plug that in to the top outlet above the charger plug , then go order food or coffee. In 20 to 30 minutes I am ready to roll it out and roll down the road with a full charge. :mrgreen:

I will be busy in my e bike workshop. I started working on the LTO boxes before I went to bed this morning.
In fact , believe it or not , the LTO box that will slide over the top bar and sit in the triangle will be smaller than the 12S - LIFEPO4s and the three SLAs. I do not have a mini pocket camera anymore so did a short video with my sun glass camera.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV4LuaMUg8w

You can all say what you want about the looks , but in the triangle the weight will be centered. I will be able to run a front or rear basket for cargo also. Each weigh somewhere around 45 pounds.

I made up my mind to remove the Bafang from the front of the 26" dual suspension. I will leave the 26" 48V - 1,000W DD on the back. Basically it will be a big compromise. I have 24 - LTOs but am building a 20S pack with two 10S active balancers. I do not have a way to charge 24S - LTO as I paid $135 for the 54.6V - 15 amp charger which will work for 20S - LTO. NOT 24S.

I can charge the 4S separate at home with my 6S - LiPo charger at 3S - LIFE setting as 3.6*3 = 10.8 / 4 = 2.7. However will not work for portable charging as NOT hauling the LiPo charger / power supply around too.

Therefore I will use 20S - LTO for 50 to 46V. It will be a little under powered for the 26" hub motor and a little too much for the 750W gear reduction motor I am putting on the front but hopefully together they will work. Likewise the gear reduction motor will be the most difficult to mount on the front of an e bike due to the large base and gear reduction but also the easiest to gear on a 26" wheel as only 480 rpms vs 3,000 and 2,750 for the other two 36V chain drives.

For the 1,800W and 3,000W brushless motors , They will need to run 20S - LTO AND 24S. If I want to go 40+ mph then I should be able to with 24S but if I need to charge the LTO to make it home the controllers must work with 20S - 50 to 44V. or 48 to 44. Basically I want a LVC no higher than 40V. Lower if possible. I might need different controllers. Not sure ?????

The Currie will keep the 36V 1,000W chain drive at 36V. I can use the same 12S LIFE + 36V SLAs in parallel for the front Bafang and 36V - 3,000 rpm. rear chain drive. I will upgrade the controller to a Currie 40 amp brush controller though. I tried 48V for that motor and was grossly over geared so keeping it at 36V.

http://www.thesuperkids.com/cu36vo40amp3.html

40a.png

My question is I have a 3.3 amp charger which is meant for 12V - SLA. The output says 13.8V. I will need alligator clips and will be extra work unhooking the series connections to charge them all in parallel.

They will only be in parallel with the 12S - LIFE when running/discharging. Never when standing or charging. The 12S charger is only for 12S - LIFE and 43.6V.

However I do still own that 1.5 amp 42V charger for the old 10S - Lion packs I don't run anymore. That is really close to 13.8 * 3 = 41.4V. It would make charging the SLAs a lot easier. Would it work or severally damage the SLAs ???????

If it will only take a few cycles from the life of the SLAs it is ok. Not looking to run them more than a couple months anyway. 50 to 100 cycles. I will be replacing them with better LIFEPO4 cells. They are only temporary. I will not be using them come spring.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top