New Kelly pseudo FOC controller series

shadow said:
does anyone know if the KLS96 series of controllers will support a 24s li-ion pack (100.8v full charge voltage). I intend on using regen and pushing a lot of power through it, so it would be good to have some confirmation that i'm not asking for trouble with this combination.

In the detail on the page is says: "Max operating range: 18V to 1.25*Nominal Voltage"
So 96v nominal will handle 1.25*96 = 120 volts peak.
 
yeah i guess my worry was all for naught, Fany confirmed that 100v is fine. 24s here i come!! Triple digit voltage, the future!
 
I'm looking at the KLS controllers to go with a Revolt 120 pro motor. I'm doing a moto conversion so for me its a no-go if the torque is not there from the start..

How is start torque with full size wheels, 26"?
I don't think it's a proof of torque that a kart can do skids given their small wheel size. Same torque would be 2.6 times lower and wheel rpm 2.6 times lower on a bike so requirements are more demanding.

Hope you can give some input!

What i'd like to see is a wheel lifting video or current measurement at WOT from standstill. That should show the real torque available at zero and low speeds.

I will be running 72V system and max 200 battery amps. Thinking of using this:
http://kellycontroller.com/kls7230s24v-72v300asinusoidal-brushless-motor-controller-p-1343.html
 
larsb said:
I'm looking at the KLS controllers to go with a Revolt 120 pro motor. I'm doing a moto conversion so for me its a no-go if the torque is not there from the start..

How is start torque with full size wheels, 26"?
I don't think it's a proof of torque that a kart can do skids given their small wheel size. Same torque would be 2.6 times lower and wheel rpm 2.6 times lower on a bike so requirements are more demanding.

Hope you can give some input!

What i'd like to see is a wheel lifting video or current measurement at WOT from standstill. That should show the real torque available at zero and low speeds.

I will be running 72V system and max 200 battery amps. Thinking of using this:
http://kellycontroller.com/kls7230s24v-72v300asinusoidal-brushless-motor-controller-p-1343.html


So you want a phase current reading from standstill? I may be able to do that in a week or so. (rebuilding the cart with a new dash). May have to figure something about phase current though.

I do know that Jon from Catavolt is now building his bikes with the KLS-I controllers over the older Kellys. I have ridden the new bike and know it accelerates better than the old one.
 
larsb said:
A phase reading would be optimal, or even better a plot of current vs rpm at WOT.

But how would it be measured? I fear that just a reading from multimeter will be useless. Can a CA log such readings?

Can't do a plot, no equipement for that.
If I had the Canbus version maybe.
 
the weird thing is: the kelly foc controllers can output phase amps. you can check the value with the android/pc program connected. but values do fluctuate a lot so getting "real" readings is next to impossible. logging a graph with different values like throttle input, speed, battery and phase amp would be great. but the software can't do this. just show actual values. and reading those from a little screen while doing a full throttle start is not possible. ;)
 
there's gonna be plenty of torque...i'm doing a similar build and plan to get it dyno'd at some point
 
izeman said:
the weird thing is: the kelly foc controllers can output phase amps. you can check the value with the android/pc program connected. but values do fluctuate a lot so getting "real" readings is next to impossible. logging a graph with different values like throttle input, speed, battery and phase amp would be great. but the software can't do this. just show actual values. and reading those from a little screen while doing a full throttle start is not possible. ;)

Yea one of the things I want to do soon is interprete the data stream from the serial out and setup a little display.
Playing with the VESC, it's software does live graphing, very neat.
 
I'd love to see the actual output from the controller at low RPM, it would define where these Kellys are on the performance range. There's too much anecdotal proof on ES..

@shadow:
What kind of build are you planning?
And sorry if i say so but "plenty of torque" does not mean much until dynoed. We all have our own definition of things when they aren't measured.
 
Hello - hope somone can help.

I have a KLS7212S controller - everything is working fine, except I have an issue with the precharging of the dc-link capacitors
inside the controller. If I connect the controller as shown in the following picture I always get a big spark when connecting the main (B) plug
after connecting the precharge plug (A).

kelly-precharge-issue.jpg

It seems that the controller is somehow pulling the voltage down to 10V on the controller side. The only way to overcome this issue is
to use a third plug and conect the PWR only after pluging plug (A) and (B). Is there a way to simplify the procedure ? The plan is to use
only one connector (with a built in precharge resistor). I want to simplify the wiring as much as possible.
 
Sorry if I have overlooked it. Are the differences between the sine wave motor series outlined somewhere?
- Brushless KLS-S
- Brushless KLS-D
- Brushless KLS8080I
- Brushless KLS8080IPS

I was searching specs to find the most appropriate controller to push a lot of quiet power through LightningRods' Big Block kit at 72v nominal. It seems that the 4 series up above have different voltages am amperage but there is a lot of overlap with very different price points. Can someone clear this up for me or point me to where I can find a good answer. If a concise answer doesn't exist, I can reach out to Fany.

Thanks gents!

Mammalian04
 
Since the S & D are in uniquely shaped boxes, the packaging size would be the first difference.
The D offers higher continuous amp capacity

the 8080 series has higher voltage and amperage and much larger packaging size
8080I uses 3 hall sensors
The IPS series works with sine/cosine sensors

There might be a few other differences but that's what i noticed
 
frlecmatjaz said:
Hello - hope somone can help.

I have a KLS7212S controller - everything is working fine, except I have an issue with the precharging of the dc-link capacitors
inside the controller. If I connect the controller as shown in the following picture I always get a big spark when connecting the main (B) plug
after connecting the precharge plug (A).



It seems that the controller is somehow pulling the voltage down to 10V on the controller side. The only way to overcome this issue is
to use a third plug and conect the PWR only after pluging plug (A) and (B). Is there a way to simplify the procedure ? The plan is to use
only one connector (with a built in precharge resistor). I want to simplify the wiring as much as possible.

Don't connect the Power at the same time as the pre-charge.
I don't know the internals but this will not allow the caps to charge.
 
Emoto said:
markz said:
I'd love to buy one with ~150 or more amps, for $200. It just seems so much more then my 65A Infineon Lyen modded controller for the same price. Then I could rock 72V and have available to me 150A thats 11,000 watts or more of continuous power.

Im using a cell man 18 fet infenio and at @ 72v-- 100 amp burst its reliable so far :) . if your refering to the KLS-S Controllers dont forget the amp ratings are phase..
About time kelly rated there controllers @ batt amps as well as phase, like all the rest, would make comparing alot easier

EDIT Ow and the kls-7240s [ largest one ] has diapered from the site listing ??

KLS7240S or KLS6040S is not good at heat dissipation because the peak current is very high but the case is small.
We published KLSXX40D controller to replace KLSXX40S controller.The KLS-D has a thicker aluminum plate for heat dissipation.
It has a better performance than KLS-S.
 
SplinterOz said:
larsb said:
A phase reading would be optimal, or even better a plot of current vs rpm at WOT.

But how would it be measured? I fear that just a reading from multimeter will be useless. Can a CA log such readings?

Can't do a plot, no equipement for that.
If I had the Canbus version maybe.

CA+External shunt can read battery current.
 
fany said:
SplinterOz said:
larsb said:
A phase reading would be optimal, or even better a plot of current vs rpm at WOT.

But how would it be measured? I fear that just a reading from multimeter will be useless. Can a CA log such readings?

Can't do a plot, no equipement for that.
If I had the Canbus version maybe.

CA+External shunt can read battery current.


Yea battery current is easy it is the phase current they want.
 
Mammalian04 said:
Sorry if I have overlooked it. Are the differences between the sine wave motor series outlined somewhere?
- Brushless KLS-S
- Brushless KLS-D
- Brushless KLS8080I
- Brushless KLS8080IPS

I was searching specs to find the most appropriate controller to push a lot of quiet power through LightningRods' Big Block kit at 72v nominal. It seems that the 4 series up above have different voltages am amperage but there is a lot of overlap with very different price points. Can someone clear this up for me or point me to where I can find a good answer. If a concise answer doesn't exist, I can reach out to Fany.

Thanks gents!

Mammalian04

As you know,KEB/KBL/KHB is based on trapezoidal waveform.So the noise at the starting up should be expected.
And the noise will be existed in the whole running.

KLS controller is sinusoidal waveform control.There is no noise for the whole operation.
Both KLS and KEB/KBL/KHB can do releasing throttle regen mode,brake switch regen mode and brake analog regen mode now.

The switch signal is valid to ground on KEB/KBL/KHB while you need to use 12V of KLS controller to activate the switch signal.

And KLS can support Android OS program and Microsoft OS program.
You need to do auto_identify function to run KLS controller to drive the motor.You don't have to program the controller KEB/KBL/KHB to drive the motor.

01050001:The 12V brake switch and motor temp sensor functions used the same port on pin1.
01050002:The 12V brake switch used the different port from motor temp sensor.pin25 is 12V brake switch while pin1 is motor temp sensor.
01060001:The 12V brake switch is pin25 while motor temp sensor is pin1.And we added the brake analog regen mode on pin2.

KLS8080I is designed for the motor with common three hall sensors.
KLS8080IPS is designed for the motor with sine/cosine speed sensors.
You can find the details in configuration in KLS8080I/IPS user manual.
When speed sensor type is at 4 for linear hall sensor(sin/cosin speed sensor),you need to use KLS8080IPS controller.
For example,we can provide Mars 1115 motor with sin/cosin speed sensor.
There are +5V,GND,Sin and Cosin port from this speed sensor.
 
@fany: i think you can confirm how the phase current is controlled at low speed and full throttle? What phase amps will the controller output from zero rpm?

If we take KLS7230S as example, will it give 300A at 0 rpm?

If not then there must exist a limit curve of phase current vs rpm. This should be available from your own controller specification.
 
larsb said:
I'd love to see the actual output from the controller at low RPM, it would define where these Kellys are on the performance range. There's too much anecdotal proof on ES..

@shadow:
What kind of build are you planning?
And sorry if i say so but "plenty of torque" does not mean much until dynoed. We all have our own definition of things when they aren't measured.

Yeah I understand your quest for info, i just meant to say that for a 26" wheel there's no reason the Kelly controller wouldn't be suitable. This is based on my experience with running a 27" wheel with significantly less power (10kW). I couldn't say whether it outputs the exact amount of amps to a specific motor as some other brand, i would imagine that would take quite a bit of dyno time to fully understand the differences.

Anyhow, when i do get it up and running, hopefully i'll be able to do a plot and show you what the output looks like, at least on an Enertrac motor
 
cwah said:
anyone tried the option waterproof?
http://kellycontroller.com/kls-optional-waterproof-p-1351.html

what does it worth?


At a minimum, it is worth the denial of a warranty claim for ingress of water! ;)
 
ah no, already ordered with silica gel filing. Thinking again they don't seal the controller and water getting inside will just get stuck in. Better for me to position the controller in a way that it's hard for water to get in but easy to get out. Going to ask Fanny if I can cancel that.

Here's the controller I ordered:
http://kellycontroller.com/kls7230s24v-72v300asinusoidal-brushless-motor-controller-p-1343.html

It's a bit overkill for my leaf motor at 1000W:
http://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/20-inch-electric-hub-motor-kit/newest-20-inch-48v-1000w-electric-bike-kit-front-wheel-918.html

I hope my motor won't reach saturation point :mrgreen:
 
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