New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[gfmoore]

No, that sounds about right. Remember the 48v is your nominal battery rating, whilst full charge for a li ion cell is ~4.2v... so 4.2v x 13 cells = 54.6V.

Ahh, thanks.

 

[fl2020]

Hello does anyone know what size/inner diameter the torque sensor washers are? (in the video below at 3:30)

I'm wondering if replacing/increasing these washers might help with sprocket/spider play.

[youtube]u-SY0rGMEMo[/youtube]

 

[Blacklite]

smalldisplay.png

I'm still trying to find answers from the entire internet on what settings I should have?

Poles in motor = 1 doesn't sound right? More like 6 perhaps. However, I don't want to damage the motor (anymore than it might be?) by just changing numbers at will!!!

TSDZ2 motor has 8 poles, but I’m not sure the stock Tongsheng firmware takes that kind of setting. Looks like that display has been adapted to control the tongsheng, but many of the settings menu are left there from use with other motors. The normal tongsheng display has far less possible settings.

If you can get Mbrusa’s firmware on the display and motor I think it will solve your problems - you’ll be able to easily calibrate the torque sensor from the display, and adjust the assist levels so it matches your requirements (and throttle!).

 

[Manbeer]

Following up on my last test with full assist and roughly 250w human input, 22.5mph averaging 12.7ish wh/mi I decided to repeat the test at a more reasonable speed. At roughly a powerwalking level of human powers so around 100 W on level three I average 10.5 wh/mi at 17.5 mph

i am pretty happy with those numbers. should be able to pull 30-35mi out of this tiny battery in the seat pouch

 

[gfmoore]

@Blacklite - thanks

 

[casainho]

Pictures of my future mini cargobike with 16 and 18 inches wheels, based on Yonnit Bike / other alike bicycles frames. As you can see, it is being built to perfect fit of TSDZ2

 

[raylo32]

Very cool. To make it a real beast for cargo how about adding a second bottom bracket and timing chain like on a tandem just without pedals, and a second TSDZ2? That would pull a load. Although it might be hard to synchronize their outputs unless somehow run off one controller... or maybe just split the torque signal from the "master" motor and send that to both controllers.

Pictures of my future mini cargobike with 16 and 18 inches wheels, based on Yonnit Bike / other alike bicycles frames. As you can see, it is being built to perfect fit of TSDZ2

 

[casainho]

Very cool. To make it a real beast for cargo how about adding a second bottom bracket and timing chain like on a tandem just without pedals, and a second TSDZ2? That would pull a load. Although it might be hard to synchronize their outputs unless somehow run off one controller.

Pictures of my future mini cargobike with 16 and 18 inches wheels, based on Yonnit Bike / other alike bicycles frames. As you can see, it is being built to perfect fit of TSDZ2

This is a mini cargobike, I do not expect to carry big or heavy loads or at high speeds, so only one TSDZ2 should be enough. And I want a simple and clean looking, that is why I will use a custom small battery, no display at all but the TSDZ2 ebike wireless controller and the wireless remote, and no wheel speed sensor. Just simple and clean as possible, to have a relaxed driving as also relaxed image.

 

[gfmoore]

Here is the Bafang wiring chart. If you don't have e-brakes you may have a version of the harness cable that omits the brake connectors. I believe they make the harnesses in several versions, T-1( to display only), T-2 (display and throttle), T-3 (display and e-brakes) and T-4 (all of the above).

BBS_wiring.png

Re adding a brake sensor.

Well, I bought a "Bafang Wiring for 1T4 Cable Harness mid-Drive Motor Kits Higo BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD" off ebay (£15) and didn't check carefully enough as it won't work with my display - doh.

My 850c has the following pin out connector (from display) male 6 pin



The harness (I bought) had a 5 pin connector and was male.

Somehow I need to splice what I guess is a 8 wire cable to the motor. Does anyone know of a link to how to splice my display cable or what the pin outs/colours are so I can try and add a brake cable - or perhaps even better a link to where I can get an appropriate cable. I couldn't see anything on ebay or aliexpress, they were all the type I bought. I must admit I don't really want to splice, but if that's what I need to do...

Note: I've just checked and the connector from the motor is an 8 pin male (centre pin) (plus the speedo sensor cable)

 

[raylo32]

This is what you need to convert an OEM TSDZ2 motor connector to Bafang display, brakes and throttle. It is sold out at the link below but you might find it elsewhere.

https://www.electrifybike.com/products/1-to-4-female-cable-for-tsdz2-open-source-firmware-osf-upgrade


Re adding a brake sensor.

Well, I bought a "Bafang Wiring for 1T4 Cable Harness mid-Drive Motor Kits Higo BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD" off ebay (£15) and didn't check carefully enough as it won't work with my display - doh.

My 850c has the following pin out connector (from display) male 6 pin

850c pinout.png

The harness (I bought) had a 5 pin connector and was male.

Somehow I need to splice what I guess is a 8 wire cable to the motor. Does anyone know of a link to how to splice my display cable or what the pin outs/colours are so I can try and add a brake cable - or perhaps even better a link to where I can get an appropriate cable. I couldn't see anything on ebay or aliexpress, they were all the type I bought. I must admit I don't really want to splice, but if that's what I need to do...

Note: I've just checked and the connector from the motor is an 8 pin male (centre pin) (plus the speedo sensor cable)
[/quote]

 

[seattlesockey]

Attempting to update display using APT boot loader w/ Silicon Labs CP210x USB to UART Bridge COM 3 driver. But keep getting "This device cannot start. (Code 10)". Worked before on MS Surface tablet (as recently as March 2021). Tried uninstall/install multiple times with same result.

Hoping someone has an idea what's wrong and how to fix it.

Worked fine after switching out the micro-usb cable that goes between computer and bootloader.

 

[sysrq]

Looks like finally devoped some thin crack in the plastic cover above the pinion gear due to friction caused by chainring. Probably one of the solutions is to move the chainring outwards by a millimeter and glue some piece of plastic above the crack.
Another option would be plastic welding.
J-B Weld PlasticBonder is said to be slightly more flexible.
Or maybe just use some oil resistant silicone adhesive from the other side, so that in case it falls of it won't damage anything compared to epoxy.

I would get a replacement cover. They don’t cost much (I think I paid 15$ delivered for mine on aliexpress) and then you don’t have to worry about whether the plastic is properly fixed or whether water/grime will seep into the main gear chamber.

Can't think of anything better than a correct size silicone seal from the inside and a 5 mil UHMWPE tape from the outside. Just needs to be secured sufficiently. Making a new separate cover only above the pinion gear attached using the same screws holding the plastic wire cover would be too finicky and unpredictable due to constricted space, etc.

 

[beemac]

Somehow I need to splice what I guess is a 8 wire cable to the motor. Does anyone know of a link to how to splice my display cable or what the pin outs/colours are so I can try and add a brake cable - or perhaps even better a link to where I can get an appropriate cable. I couldn't see anything on ebay or aliexpress, they were all the type I bought. I must admit I don't really want to splice, but if that's what I need to do...

Note: I've just checked and the connector from the motor is an 8 pin male (centre pin) (plus the speedo sensor cable)

I followed this to splice my original T4 cable:

 

[Pooyan]

I have a problem with my VLCD5 8 pin display, since yesterday it is showing EO4 on the screen, throttle error.
No throttle attached to the bike, it rained yesterday and i left the display on the bike. I detached the plugs and tried to dry the connections with a hairdryer but the error is staying in the screen.
The remote panel is responding when i press a button, original firmware.

Anybody a tip how the solve/remove the error code?

 

[Elinx]

I have a problem with my VLCD5 8 pin display, since yesterday it is showing EO4 on the screen, throttle error.
....
Anybody a tip how the solve/remove the error code?

Which FW version? Stock or OSF?
E04=Throttle issue is for Stock FW

For OSF:
E04= ERROR_MOTOR_BLOCKED
Motor or wheel blocked, excessive current absorption without motor rotation.
Check the cause. After 10 seconds the error disappears and the bike can be reused.

 

[sysrq]

Has anybody tried the Enerpower 500S-U TSDZ2 compatible display ?
It looks like an interesting alternative to the VLCD6, and it has a 500mA USB charging port.
https://enerprof.de/en/motor-kits/d...0s-u-display-uart-tongsheng-compatible?c=234/

That's a Bafang 500c display.
It's supposed to be really nice.

The case looks almost identical to the Bafang color 500C display indeed, but this "500S-U" seems to be monochrome and Enerprof sells it for almost 20€ cheaper than the 500C. I wonder if it's a 500C that they flashed to make it compatible with the TSDZ2 (in this case it seems weird that they would sell it cheaper than the original 500C). I'm tempted to get one to see if it would work with the OSF for stock displays..

What's the backlight color on Enerpower 500S-U? Probably white? Had to swap out the SMD diodes in VLCD6 for dimmed down orange ones in order the achieve better distance vision and reduce eye fatigue (blue light tends to scatter in the eye).
There is Enerpower TFT 560C with night mode which also doesn't have adjustable backlight brightness I guess.

 

[Pooyan]

I have a problem with my VLCD5 8 pin display, since yesterday it is showing EO4 on the screen, throttle error.
....
Anybody a tip how the solve/remove the error code?

Which FW version? Stock or OSF?
E04=Throttle issue is for Stock FW

For OSF:
E04= ERROR_MOTOR_BLOCKED
Motor or wheel blocked, excessive current absorption without motor rotation.
Check the cause. After 10 seconds the error disappears and the bike can be reused.

Stock (original) firmware

 

[sysrq]

Looks like finally devoped some thin crack in the plastic cover above the pinion gear due to friction caused by chainring. Probably one of the solutions is to move the chainring outwards by a millimeter and glue some piece of plastic above the crack.
Another option would be plastic welding.
J-B Weld PlasticBonder is said to be slightly more flexible.
Or maybe just use some oil resistant silicone adhesive from the other side, so that in case it falls of it won't damage anything compared to epoxy.

I would get a replacement cover. They don’t cost much (I think I paid 15$ delivered for mine on aliexpress) and then you don’t have to worry about whether the plastic is properly fixed or whether water/grime will seep into the main gear chamber.

Can't think of anything better than a correct size silicone seal from the inside and a 5 mil UHMWPE tape from the outside. Just needs to be secured sufficiently. Making a new separate cover only above the pinion gear attached using the same screws holding the plastic wire cover would be too finicky and unpredictable due to constricted space, etc.

Actually 0.4 mm stainless steel plate would be better since 5 mil UHMWPE tape is still easily penetrated by anything sharp enough. Should be good enough on the top of stainless steel plate to reduce possible friction only.

 

[Pooyan]

I have a problem with my VLCD5 8 pin display, since yesterday it is showing EO4 on the screen, throttle error.
No throttle attached to the bike, it rained yesterday and i left the display on the bike. I detached the plugs and tried to dry the connections with a hairdryer but the error is staying in the screen.
The remote panel is responding when i press a button, original firmware.

Anybody a tip how the solve/remove the error code?

It seemed that the problem has fixed itself, i unplugged the rubber cover for the usb port and placed the bike in the sun to airdry the displayunit, after 3 / 4 hours i started the display, fiddled a bit with both handbrakes and the error was gone.
Did a testride and it seems to work okay now....

 

[gfmoore]

I followed this to splice my original T4 cable:

Thanks.

Top tip: use a very new scalpel blade and be very gentle. And get some new specs (glasses) :wink:

I managed to splice my brake cable. Nearly got it wrong as I thought the brake sensor was a Hall effect device like the throttle. I think I was very lucky not to short the gnd and 5v - Phew. Second top tip, read the manual!!!!

Finding it hard to figure out how to permanently attach the sensor and magnet to ST road bike brake (I've only attached the front cable). The hoods are of course rubber? So not sure what adhesive to use to attach sensor and also the magnet. (I'm keeping a spare magnet in my saddle bag - although I guess if I disconnect the cable the sensor will be inactive anyway if I lose the magnet?)

I didn't splice in any connectors for the programmer, it's easy enough I found to just use (slightly bent at the tip) breadboard jumper pins and push them into the 8 pin female connector at the motor end being very very careful to get the battery P+ in the correct hole!!!! My heart was in my mouth when I did this the first time.

 

[gfmoore]

If it works with the throttle but not with pressure on the pedals it sounds like your torque sensor may not be working. One way to check is to install the Open Source Firmware which along with the 850C or 860C display allows you to calibrate the torque sensor, during which you will be able to see that it is working from the readings on the screen.

So after all this I'm now back full circle to my original query.
I have now installed OSF and the 850c display firmware.

I am waiting for a weighing scale from Amazon to calibrate the torque readings properly. (Yet another expense!!!)

However here are my basic readings (and why is the left pedal on the right in the spreadsheet? :lol: )

Left pedal Right pedal
0 142 148
20kg 230 263
115kg 274 306

I guess at least the torque sensor is working.

On the static trainer it certainly feels better, but the test will be on the road - hopefully tomorrow if it stops raining and blowing a gale.

Just like to say thankyou to everyone for your patience, help and encouragement, it's very much appreciated

Gordon

 

[casainho]

Some details of final touch to install TSDZ2 on my future mini cargo bike

Some extra cuts had to be done to fit the TSDZ2 motor:




Checking the chainline:


My small DIY battery pack, 52V 300Wh, 14S2P 52volts -- I will be doing shorts and slow trips with our baby so this relatively small battery is more than enough. I plan a long trip for camping and then I will carry an extra battery of 500Wh 14S3P 52volts. This frame has a big and flat face, so nice to install a battery!!


Checking the carrier:


Checking that the carrier will be ok inside our car trunk as also the baby shell will fit on the carrier. We will transport this mini cargo bike on back of our car just like we transport already our ebikes, as this mini cargo bike width is the same. The carrier will be removed ans transported on the car trunk:


This frame has as reference the design of Yonnit mini cargobike as also the other previous similar designs:

[youtube]SjYpcgKoxxI[/youtube]

 

[Toxygene]

Hi all,

I have a 36v motor and a 36v 5ah battery and am running OSF, best mod to my bike ever lol
I noticed in the menus i can use a different voltage battery and wanted to upgrade for greater distance.

Is there any benefit to going to a 48v battery instead of a 36v one?

For example i can get a 48v 13ah battery for a similar price to a 36 15ah one (£200).
Its a trusted supplier, but also is getting genuine Samsung 29E cells worth another £100 on the 48v one?

Thanks in advance

 

[g4eml]

Is there any technical reason why the bluetooth support in the SW102 firmware was never completed? (it is commented out in the code). Or was it just a case of too many other things to play with?. I have tried to find some refence to it on the forum but it is not easy to search through over 300 posts.

Having just finally decided to load the OSF on my bike I was a little disappointed to find several bugs still present in the SW102 firmware. (the main one being the assist levels didn't display correctly when using Imperial units. The 0-20 Assist levels were being being treated as KMs and therefore were being converted to 0-12 Miles!)

I have installed the toolchain and fixed that bug but in the process I noticed the Bluetooth support seems to have been started but never finished. I know the wireless display development has taken Bluetooth in a different direction but the SW102 should be perfectly capable of providing basic Bluetooth support.

If there was a technical reason why it was never finished I won't waste time looking at it myself.

Colin.

 

[casainho]

Is there any technical reason why the bluetooth support in the SW102 firmware was never completed? (it is commented out in the code). Or was it just a case of too many other things to play with?. I have tried to find some refence to it on the forum but it is not easy to search through over 300 posts.

Having just finally decided to load the OSF on my bike I was a little disappointed to find several bugs still present in the SW102 firmware. (the main one being the assist levels didn't display correctly when using Imperial units. The 0-20 Assist levels were being being treated as KMs and therefore were being converted to 0-12 Miles!)

I have installed the toolchain and fixed that bug but in the process I noticed the Bluetooth support seems to have been started but never finished. I know the wireless display development has taken Bluetooth in a different direction but the SW102 should be perfectly capable of providing basic Bluetooth support.

If there was a technical reason why it was never finished I won't waste time looking at it myself.

Colin.

Nowadays there are a lot of software development and I bet there are many users that do that professionally, so I do not understand why there are almost no developers - the firmware is OpenSource, the displays are kind of cheap and the development tools are really cheap so I wounder why there are almost no more developers....

On the OpenSource TSDZ2 EBike wireless motor controller (https://opensourceebike.github.io/), we have the Bluetooth and mobile app working well. Again, what is missing is interested developers to pickup the information from the other projects and maintain the firmware.