New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[Jaybee258]

Hi Guys. I have a 52 volt battery and a 48 volt motor. I'm struggling to get the Open Firmware to work, and would like to revert back to the original firmware to see if the motor will run on that with the original screen. I never tried the motor before flashing the open firmware, ( because of the mismatch of voltages), so the fault could be in there.

Question, has anybody tried a step down voltage controller like this one to do the job? Or does anyone know of any better solutions?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202866188159

Many thanks

 

[Elinx]

Hi Guys. I have a 52 volt battery and a 48 volt motor. ..... does anyone know of any better solutions?
...

If you don't get OSF working as you want you can flash modified stock FW too.
In that case you can use the 52V battery.
Instructions by eco cycles
Stock FW archive

 

[Jaybee258]

Hi Elinx. Yes, that is a much better solution to a simple problem. I think I am going to have to give that a go next. Many thanks

 

[psl2806]

Does anyone know where I can buy a chainguard that will fit a TSDZ2 52t chainring? Preferably in Europe.
Thanks!

 

[jeff.page.rides]

Thank You for your reply!
We did add some silicone between the 2 cases where the wires go through the case.
I will try to find a USA Bearing supplier to order these from.
In my case would you suggest any of the double bearings?

Reading back, I realised I was a bit unclear. In addition to the reduction shaft, there are two holes through to the controller (or four if you include the holes for the screws that hold the controller in place). One where the PAS sensor pokes out and the other where the wires for the torque sensor run through.

To apply sealant to the PAS sensor from the controller side you'll have to remove the controller first, and then somehow ensure there's no excess sealant that will cause a problem. So ideally you'd remove the torque sensor for this job too, in order to clean up any excess. But with the torque sensor out, you could probably just squeeze sealant around the PAS sensor from the torque sensor side anyway.

Thanks, I will look into this when I can get some help replacing the bearing.

 

[Retrorockit]

TSDZ2 heatsink continued.
I got my 3mm thermal pads and installed the heatsink ring today. 100x100x3mm gives enough pad to do the job twice in case of a mistake, or blue gear repair later. I removed the motor to install thermal pads on the armature between the motor screws, and put thermal grease all the way around the base of the motor for heat transfer in that direction. Reinstalled the motor. The only special tool needed was pair of large external snap ring pliers to spread the ring to go over the thermal pads. This was expected. Compression helps with the heat transfer of the pads. Once the ring was over the pads, and seated around the bottom of the motor, the wiring was connected, and the cover could be installed. The ring will be slightly larger than before due to the thermal pads. A more generous bevel at the top outside edge of the ring would have helped. I coated about 1/2" down from the top of the ring, and about 1/2" inside the cover at the edge with thermal grease. You only need to do this 1/2 way around where the cover and the ring will be touching. Squeezing the ring in I got it started going into the cover. It helps to have the crank tube bracket attached as a guide.The cover was a much tighter fit than before and needed to be tapped down into position using a piece of wood to protect the cover.But I knew it was just the compressible pads making it tight.
I didn't use expensive computer overclocking thermal compound like Arctic Silver. I got a 20g. tube of Thermalgrease 20 which is just a generic cooler paste. Again I think there is enough for a rework if needed.
There's nothing here that couldn't be done with a hacksaw, and a rough file. Or even the razor saws they sell in craft stores.

This got started because I added a motor controller to get a throttle, and I had it flashed with the Open Source Firmware. But I did some measuring and saw the possibility of a decent heatsink solution and tried it. This has thermal pads all the way around the armature. The heatsink is full circle also, and the heat goes not only to the cover but down into the base of the motor housing.
I hope someone with a thermal sensor gives this a try and reports back.

 

[famichiki]

Hi! I am looking for a 50T or 52t Narrow Wide w/ 10mm offset chain ring? anyone has found anything similar on the web? I saw on this threat a user posting a photos of one but I think it´s not available to buy.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&p=1574323&hilit=offset#p1574323

Try emailing Eco Cycles, they don't have that size in narrow wide listed on their website but appear to be the ones developing it.
https://www.eco-ebike.com/search?q=tsdz2+chain+ring

 

[vass]

For future reference (or to help a newbie like me).
E03 Error (LCD05 with Marcoq Fw, based on Casainho work) - Today when i wanted to comute to work i got this error on my display. the Bike was ok when i left it overnight. The only differente thing i did yesterday is that i shut the battery down but only disconnected the Black wire (yeah stupid but i had a important calll ) .

Resolution: program again the controller. After it all was alright.

next time disconnect the red wire instead but before turn everything off by the buttons

Damn, it happened again... and in vacations away from the pc , wth is happening that makes the LCD5-Controller behave like they loose the fw.

Had to buy another st link v2 and waiting for it...

 

[vshitikov]

For future reference (or to help a newbie like me).
E03 Error (LCD05 with Marcoq Fw, based on Casainho work) - Today when i wanted to comute to work i got this error on my display. the Bike was ok when i left it overnight. The only differente thing i did yesterday is that i shut the battery down but only disconnected the Black wire (yeah stupid but i had a important calll ) .

Resolution: program again the controller. After it all was alright.

next time disconnect the red wire instead but before turn everything off by the buttons

Damn, it happened again... and in vacations away from the pc , wth is happening that makes the LCD5-Controller behave like they loose the fw.

Had to buy another st link v2 and waiting for it...

They probably do loose the firmware. What is your battery cutoff voltage? We had noticed this issue wheen under powering motor controller. It will loose the firmware. I recommend never power it with depleted battery

 

[fl2020]

A cosmetic question, is it ok to vinyl wrap the motor or does the shell need to act as a heatsink?

 

[Andrew707]

So yesterday I soaked blue gear in biodegradable degreaser for a few hours, then used toothbrush trying to clean the inside and then put it under hot water, dried and used isopropyl alcohol to clean inside again and tried it in the motor. Unfortunately, it's still making that sound. I believe grease got inside the bearing and it's not going anywhere now... So I ordered a new brass gear just to try it out. But it may take a couple months to arrive.

Also, I've tried to hammer out roller clutch bearing using a socket but it came out with the outer ring. Still want to disassemble it to see how it looks like inside but I'm running out of ideas what else to do with my limited tools... Here are some pics: https://imgur.com/a/JTCLktT

Today I finally disassembled the roller clutch bearing. It was interesting to see how does it work inside. Also, I found that the rollers were quite greasy. Here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/gN1zkfd

I soaked in degreaser my other blue gear overnight. Then used a screwdriver which fits perfectly inside to spin the rollers in the degreaser, hot water and isopropyl alcohol. Dried everything up and the rollers were quite loud when spinning them so that means the inside of the bearing probably got cleaned up as well. Put everything together and my motor is still slipping and making that weird sound. I honestly don't know what else to do. Right now I'm seriously considering just buying a new motor again...

 

[famichiki]

Today I finally disassembled the roller clutch bearing. It was interesting to see how does it work inside. Also, I found that the rollers were quite greasy. Here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/gN1zkfd

I soaked in degreaser my other blue gear overnight. Then used a screwdriver which fits perfectly inside to spin the rollers in the degreaser, hot water and isopropyl alcohol. Dried everything up and the rollers were quite loud when spinning them so that means the inside of the bearing probably got cleaned up as well. Put everything together and my motor is still slipping and making that weird sound. I honestly don't know what else to do. Right now I'm seriously considering just buying a new motor again...

I can't remember but does the power drop off when the slipping noise occurs or can you feel any strangeness through the pedals?

Perhaps we can rule that bearing out then. Originally you only removed the electric motor and blue gear? Then perhaps the issue is with the motor itself. Can you spin the motor spindle freely by hand?

Also do all the other bearings seem ok? Does the little bearing on the end of the motor spindle fit the housing firmly, or appear that the outer race is spinning in the housing?

Can you check the screw terminals and motor related connectors and wiring for damage?

Apologies if we have already gone over some things, but perhaps it will cause someone else to have an idea.

 

[mctubster]

fyi, video about 2nd version of my Android app with new feature: digital throttle.

Very cool, was unaware of this simple patch against the original firmware. Is your Android app able to datalog out of interest?

Cheers

 

[vass]

For future reference (or to help a newbie like me).
E03 Error (LCD05 with Marcoq Fw, based on Casainho work) - Today when i wanted to comute to work i got this error on my display. the Bike was ok when i left it overnight. The only differente thing i did yesterday is that i shut the battery down but only disconnected the Black wire (yeah stupid but i had a important calll ) .

Resolution: program again the controller. After it all was alright.

next time disconnect the red wire instead but before turn everything off by the buttons

Damn, it happened again... and in vacations away from the pc , wth is happening that makes the LCD5-Controller behave like they loose the fw.

Had to buy another st link v2 and waiting for it...

They probably do loose the firmware. What is your battery cutoff voltage? We had noticed this issue wheen under powering motor controller. It will loose the firmware. I recommend never power it with depleted battery

I have a 52v batt and 42 cutoff, i did ride it with only 1bar in the batt but it didnt shut down so i guess it dindt hit the cutoff.
I will read the firmware in the controller to compare with the backup i have at home to check the diffs (i am in vacation and will have to put new fw if i can but the computer is another one)

 

[dameri]

So yesterday I soaked blue gear in biodegradable degreaser for a few hours, then used toothbrush trying to clean the inside and then put it under hot water, dried and used isopropyl alcohol to clean inside again and tried it in the motor. Unfortunately, it's still making that sound. I believe grease got inside the bearing and it's not going anywhere now... So I ordered a new brass gear just to try it out. But it may take a couple months to arrive.

Also, I've tried to hammer out roller clutch bearing using a socket but it came out with the outer ring. Still want to disassemble it to see how it looks like inside but I'm running out of ideas what else to do with my limited tools... Here are some pics: https://imgur.com/a/JTCLktT

Today I finally disassembled the roller clutch bearing. It was interesting to see how does it work inside. Also, I found that the rollers were quite greasy. Here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/gN1zkfd

I soaked in degreaser my other blue gear overnight. Then used a screwdriver which fits perfectly inside to spin the rollers in the degreaser, hot water and isopropyl alcohol. Dried everything up and the rollers were quite loud when spinning them so that means the inside of the bearing probably got cleaned up as well. Put everything together and my motor is still slipping and making that weird sound. I honestly don't know what else to do. Right now I'm seriously considering just buying a new motor again...

Have you checked if the main gear cluch slips?
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ#Main_gear_clutchbearing_slipping

 

[feketehegyi]

fyi, video about 2nd version of my Android app with new feature: digital throttle.

Very cool, was unaware of this simple patch against the original firmware. Is your Android app able to datalog out of interest?

Cheers

Thank you! I'm not sure what do you mean with your question. If you were meaning to log data into file then yes, it can write data out into .csv format.

 

[famichiki]

fyi, video about 2nd version of my Android app with new feature: digital throttle.

Nice work. By digital throttle, do you mean the onscreen control? Are you using the same analog input the factory throttle uses?

 

[Andrew707]

I can't remember but does the power drop off when the slipping noise occurs or can you feel any strangeness through the pedals?

Perhaps we can rule that bearing out then. Originally you only removed the electric motor and blue gear? Then perhaps the issue is with the motor itself. Can you spin the motor spindle freely by hand?

Also do all the other bearings seem ok? Does the little bearing on the end of the motor spindle fit the housing firmly, or appear that the outer race is spinning in the housing?

Can you check the screw terminals and motor related connectors and wiring for damage?

Apologies if we have already gone over some things, but perhaps it will cause someone else to have an idea.

The power drops and then the sound occurs.

I wanted to do heat dissipation upgrade and removed the blue gear and the motor.

When I removed the gear shaft on which blue gear mounts and put it into the little bearing on the motor there was a tiny bit of play. I don't think that this could be enough for the blue gear to slip, plus the shaft has a big bearing which fits firmly into the housing so I believe then it's sitting pretty tight down there.

So I checked pretty much everything, bearings, wiring, motor spindle... Everything seems to be fine.

Have you checked if the main gear cluch slips?
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ#Main_gear_clutchbearing_slipping

Yes, I checked that and it's not that. Plus I haven't done any work on the right side and everything worked perfectly fine until I decided to that heat dissipation "upgrade"...

 

[famichiki]

Yes, I checked that and it's not that. Plus I haven't done any work on the right side and everything worked perfectly fine until I decided to that heat dissipation "upgrade"...

Assuming everything else is fine, then it really only leaves the electric motor as the culprit. I noticed you left the terminal block attached during the disassembly process, whereas in other photos I've seen they've removed it. Could the hall sensors in the motor be damaged? I'm not certain as I left mine on too, but don't think you need to disassemble the motor again to check them and they should come out as part of the terminal block. Also, can you measure the distance between the end caps all around the ensure they've been put back on evenly? Mine are 21.3mm apart.

 

[mctubster]

fyi, video about 2nd version of my Android app with new feature: digital throttle.

Very cool, was unaware of this simple patch against the original firmware. Is your Android app able to datalog out of interest?

Cheers

Thank you! I'm not sure what do you mean with your question. If you were meaning to log data into file then yes, it can write data out into .csv format.

Correct - Log data into a file. Are all the values you display available? At what frequency can the data be logged? I want to capture some real time data from the original firmware. I assume the Opensource firmware is using a completely different data structure (ie this will only work for the original firmware)? Cheers

 

[feketehegyi]

fyi, video about 2nd version of my Android app with new feature: digital throttle.

Nice work. By digital throttle, do you mean the onscreen control? Are you using the same analog input the factory throttle uses?

Thank you! By digital throttle I use the walk assist mode but with variable RPM. I have found in the factory firmware where it is defined and changed its fix value 100 to register $87 what is actually the 5th value in the communication UART message to motor controller.
And this 5th value is driven by the onscreen control. So, it has no connection to the analog input. By the way the analog input still works as before.
More info at about the firmware patch: https://github.com/wptm/voamca

 

[sysrq]

For those who don't use open source firmware with appropriate display, has anybody tried to use unprofessional hobby grade things like toolkitRC WM150 watt meter or anything else to monitor the shape of the real time current spikes/peaks depending on a cadance in order to see the overall stress on the system. Or is it just another useless distraction.

 

[mctubster]

For those who don't use open source firmware with appropriate display, has anybody tried to use unprofessional hobby grade things like WM150 watt meter or anything else to monitor the shape of the real time current spikes/peaks depeng on a cadance in order to see the overall stress on the system. Or is it just a useless distraction.

I use this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32702066121.html mainly for coulomb counting (ie battery capacity). The bottom line is a little small and tricky to glance at, but device works well. Was very important last year as I was using a LiPO battery I built from drone batts and I had to be very careful about the max discharge point.

 

[Griepje]

When i really tighten the tzdz2 in the bottom bracket it starts to rattle when the motor is off or soft pedaling, giving a lot of recistance, is that only me or is this a normal behaviour? I read some posts from people that tightened the last bit with soft strokes with a hammer.

 

[sysrq]

For those who don't use open source firmware with appropriate display, has anybody tried to use unprofessional hobby grade things like WM150 watt meter or anything else to monitor the shape of the real time current spikes/peaks depeng on a cadance in order to see the overall stress on the system. Or is it just a useless distraction.

I use this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32702066121.html mainly for coulomb counting (ie battery capacity). The bottom line is a little small and tricky to glance at, but device works well. Was very important last year as I was using a LiPO battery I built from drone batts and I had to be very careful about the max discharge point.

I was referring to graphical representation of current profile/curve.