New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Speady said:
I fully understand you don't want to read the whole thread, ever since the little portuguese elf hijacked it for his daily hacker talk.
Click to expand...

Be nice to the nerds around here fella, i'm a portugese hacker too and i take offense.. :mrgreen:
 
Anyone know on how much current the (P+) battery voltage pin can give?, enough to run an headlight?, its appox 7.5 w @ 48V.
Thinking on tap it from battery connection, but if the (P+) battery voltage in cable can give some current it would be easier cable wise
 
I all! I posted earlier about my bike making squeaking sounds, but didn't get any replies so I thought I'd try again. I'ts caused by the crankset grinding on the main gear cover, and clearly seems like some design fault or the consequence of something worn out inside so it can't be that uncommon.

I've tried to think of a quick fix with washers, but as you see there's not much room around the holes. Best would be a shim around the entire cicle, but not easy to manufacture. I dont' think a big central washer will do anything except put strain on the screws.

Anyone got any ideas?
 

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ancan said:
I all! I posted earlier about my bike making squeaking sounds, but didn't get any replies so I thought I'd try again. I'ts caused by the crankset grinding on the main gear cover, and clearly seems like some design fault or the consequence of something worn out inside so it can't be that uncommon.

I've tried to think of a quick fix with washers, but as you see there's not much room around the holes. Best would be a shim around the entire cicle, but not easy to manufacture. I dont' think a big central washer will do anything except put strain on the screws.

Anyone got any ideas?
Click to expand...

Looks like you lost the large o-ring that goes into the groove under the arrowhead on your photo... easy to lose if you don't know it's there before you disassemble the first time.
 
beemac said:
ancan said:
I all! I posted earlier about my bike making squeaking sounds, but didn't get any replies so I thought I'd try again. I'ts caused by the crankset grinding on the main gear cover, and clearly seems like some design fault or the consequence of something worn out inside so it can't be that uncommon.

I've tried to think of a quick fix with washers, but as you see there's not much room around the holes. Best would be a shim around the entire cicle, but not easy to manufacture. I dont' think a big central washer will do anything except put strain on the screws.

Anyone got any ideas?
Click to expand...

Looks like you lost the large o-ring that goes into the groove under the arrowhead on your photo... easy to lose if you don't know it's there before you disassemble the first time.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Wonder where that can be... It was not any dirt inside when I took it apart today, but should probably replace it.
 
theflyingjaguar said:
Hey there !

I have bought a 500w 48v TSDZ2 kit, but shortly after installing it, I had an issue with the controller and had to get it replaced by the seller.

I installed the new one, but then I noticed that the battery indicator on my VLCD5 display is wrong : I have to use half my batterie before the display shows that I lost 1 bar.

I don't know if the issue is related to the new controller or not. Is there a way to callibrate it ? How can I know if the seller didn't accidentally send a 36v controller ?

Thanks a lot
Click to expand...

I openned the motor today and saw that there is a sticker on the controller. It says "48v 15A" so it should be the right one.
How can I fix the battery reading issue ? At least, how could I find out where this comes from ?
 
While doing some maintenance, I accidentally took off the rubber seal that goes the CSK30 freewheel bearing and the spider, and now, I'm unable to get it back in place.

The seal is supposed to fit in the groove (green arrows) and is a bit longer than the groove. At the red arrow, it was folded inside the hole.

I tried to put it back in the same way but the folded part it does not stay in place in the hole..


png images


Has anyone had this issue before ?
By any chance, does someone have a photo of this seal in place that I could refer to ?

Thanks a lot fellas :)
 
theflyingjaguar said:
Has anyone had this issue before ?
By any chance, does someone have a photo of this seal in place that I could refer to ?
Click to expand...

Sprag clutch bearings in my two motors do not have that notch, perhaps it is more recent addition.

But have you tried using a little bit of grease to hold the seal in it's place?
 
ilu said:
Sprag clutch bearings in my two motors do not have that notch, perhaps it is more recent addition.

But have you tried using a little bit of grease to hold the seal in it's place?
Click to expand...

I bought my motor in june 2021 so it's quite recent indeed.

I tried putting some grease but it doesn't hold it enough : the seal wants to get back to his round shape and pops out of the notch.
I wonder what purpose this notch serves..
 
theflyingjaguar said:
ilu said:
Sprag clutch bearings in my two motors do not have that notch, perhaps it is more recent addition.

But have you tried using a little bit of grease to hold the seal in it's place?
Click to expand...

I bought my motor in june 2021 so it's quite recent indeed.

I tried putting some grease but it doesn't hold it enough : the seal wants to get back to his round shape and pops out of the notch.
I wonder what purpose this notch serves..
Click to expand...
the rubber material expanded over time but was hold in place with groove , when pulled out its very hard to compress it back without proper tooling
 
pxl666 said:
the rubber material expanded over time but was hold in place with groove , when pulled out its very hard to compress it back without proper tooling
Click to expand...

So I'm basically f*cked ?

I thought about puting a tiny bit of glue both in the notch and the groove to hold the seal in place, but I don't know if it's a good idea
 
theflyingjaguar said:
pxl666 said:
the rubber material expanded over time but was hold in place with groove , when pulled out its very hard to compress it back without proper tooling
Click to expand...

So I'm basically f*cked ?

I thought about puting a tiny bit of glue both in the notch and the groove to hold the seal in place, but I don't know if it's a good idea
Click to expand...

It fiddly but you can usually get them back in. I grease the groove to hold the ring in place. Put the ring back as best you can - if there is 'extra' left over because it's stretched then you can stroke it either side of the extra bit to compress it and usually you can get rid of the extra... Hard to describe and I don't have an open motor to make a vid!
 
beemac said:
It fiddly but you can usually get them back in. I grease the groove to hold the ring in place. Put the ring back as best you can - if there is 'extra' left over because it's stretched then you can stroke it either side of the extra bit to compress it and usually you can get rid of the extra... Hard to describe and I don't have an open motor to make a vid!
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll try that
 
Just a quick note to say I did the "add 2 bearings" hack to my TSDZ2 (6400km) today, which was suffering from sloppy crank syndrome.
It was simple to do, and has made a HUUUGE difference in terms of improved tightness & quietness. Strongly recommended.
Link here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&p=1660195#p1660195
Thank you to elinx for this.
 
hello, I find it indecent to sell bikes that cost the price of a motorcycle. So I decided to do an electric retrofit on old mountain bikes to give them a second life. Well it took me with work and patience I arrive on my Enduro at 18.5 kg with a 480wh battery. The behavior has nothing to do with 24 kg bikes/trucks… I share my experience by the link
https://youtu.be/IkYj6AKtB6Y
 
I wound up getting a flashed TSDZ2 from EcoCycles and installed it on my 11 year olds dual suspension bike. I love the flexibility of the OSF, I was able to make a bike that really climbs well on steep hills but isn't a death trap on the flats. This shop was great, they answered all my questions and configured the harness with no throttle and made it a breeze for me to get this thing up and running. They also helped with an older generation model they still had in stock that allowed me to use a 34t chain ring with a way better chain line, although the chain line is still crummy for 1st and 2nd gears (but who needs to those gears when you have such a powerful motor).
 
theflyingjaguar said:
ilu said:
I wonder what purpose this notch serves..
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

That appears to be an attempt at a sealed bearing. The shape implies a design with a purpose. The O-ring needs to fit into the gap in order to seal as designed.

My guess is there's probably a special tool used to install it - something like a sleeve that holds it in place as the bearing assembly is pressed together.

Maybe try getting a round o-ring of the same size-ish and see how that stays in place, but it may not seal correctly.
 
I also failed to get those "O" rings back in my motors , so I cut them and removed about 2mm off the length and stuck them back together with a bit of super glue
 
Hello everyone. Glad I found this terrific forum. I installed a TSDZ2 on my Scott hyriid bike one year ago and I'm loving it. I will be installing a TSDZ2 on my girlfriends bike very soon. The TSDZ2 that I ordered comes with a VLCD5 display. I probably won't be using the throttle or brake cutoffs. Can I easily change out the VLCD5 for the smaller VLCD6 or is doing that more involved? Such as the firmware is not compatible?
 
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