Programming ASI Bac 8000

[jonnydrive]

I poked around in the config file a bit (very nice of you to comment it like that) but for faster debugging just loaded your configuration onto my controller to test it live using PC BacDoor. Right away I noticed that contrary to the mobile app images you showed that the Cutoff brake sensor source and Regen brake source are both 0 (brake 2) so you are likely triggering cutoff and preventing both regen and throttle. Changing your Cutoff brake sensor source to network or an unused input should do it. Did you update your mobile application parameter dictionary with the previously attached file? Here's my config-- I'm also using Brake 2 for regen and have Cutoff brake sensor source set to Network.

Also you said you could finally set brake 2 pullup to on, but it is off in your config-- as it should be for a hall throttle!

Thanks xenodius,
the problem was exactly with the cut-off sensor!
In Kelly Controller (KLS) for enable analog regeneration is also needed to configure the cutoff switch.
I am not sure if is related but I also set the various battery parameters.

Many thanks

J

 

[xenodius]

I am not sure if is related but I also set the various battery parameters.

Glad to be of help!

For anyone coming to this thread in the future, there is a logical reasoning to the setup order in ASI's guide, because many functions depend on a variety of other parameters. In addition to proper brake/cutoff sensor input sources at proper voltages, regen can be limited by minimum 'Regen brake speed', as well as 'Maximum braking torque' AND 'Maximum braking current' parameters... which are essentially synonymous and each are defined as a proportion of rated motor current. So without rated motor current, they and their dependents won't function either.

 

[xenodius]

Teaser for my Python display interface for ASI controllers via serial. I am posting the code because it can already be used as-is with CircuitPython and an Arduino, or a Pi, etc. to switch entire profiles of settings via a hardware switch and either serial controller input. Defining the parameters you want to set in each profile is as easy as naming the variable key from the parameter dictionary (e.g. 'Maximum_Field_Weakening_Current') and the write value (e.g. 25%) for each profile. This backend builds internal dictionaries in memory from ASIObjectDictionary.xml that handle all the address lookups and convert the desired input value into the register scale ASI uses for that specific parameter.

I still have a lot of work to do on the touchscreen GUI interface to make it pretty, and want to use pandas/numpy/scipy modules to create a rolling log of current by time, and integrate that to instantaneous and trip-to-date Wh/mi efficiency. This will enable me to create a 'trip limit' scale, that can be set to limit the instantaneous efficiency to ensure you can travel the specified number of miles on the remaining charge... similar to the Trip function on Adaptto controllers.

I will make a new thread when I am completely finished, but perhaps someone else out there may find this useful.

Here's the code, and below the primitive GUI. Huge buttons cause the 1884x1442 pixel 7" e-ink display will make them look small.

 

[jonnydrive]

Hi guys,
someone know how to un-brick the controller.
I inadvertently flash setting caming from 5.x firmare on to 6.x firmware, now BackDoor app cannot make readings form controller and cannot flash the new config (1% upload than error).

Is the ASI PC app able to solve this problem?

 

[xenodius]

Hi guys,
someone know how to un-brick the controller.
I inadvertently flash setting caming from 5.x firmare on to 6.x firmware, now BackDoor app cannot make readings form controller and cannot flash the new config (1% upload than error).

Is the ASI PC app able to solve this problem?

If you used the 5.x parameter dictionary to try and program a 6.x firmware controller, it's trying to write the wrong registers resulting in your fault. Update your ASI pc or mobile app with the 6.x AsiObjectDictionary.xml parameter dictionary, and try flashing your profile again. I attached this file earlier in the thread.

I do not know what the consequences or fix is, if you tried to flash 6.x firmware onto one of the older 5.x hardware controllers. That may result in genuine bricking and require ASI's support.

 

[TorgueRPM]

The 6.x and 5.x controllers use different chipsets, so the firmware is incompatible. Not sure about what that means for your controller though.

 

[homebike]

Hi, I did a rookie mistake and started breaking when my battery was too full(I thought I emptied it enough though). There was no smell of fried electronics, it just stopped breaking/working. I have ASI bac 800 and these are the errors I see. Also the errors seemed to change every second, from the first image to the second. On the screen it shows ERROR 30H and ERROR 22H. Does anyone know if this can be fixed without sending the controller back to them? It seems to be in a pretty bad way...

 

[chrisflysit]

Does anyone have some information about setting up the regen? I like the way the stock controller slows you down at zero throttle. It is great for descending hills. Mine is either not working at all or it is so subtle that the effect is not noticed.

 

[Macmaxi]

Hello you ASI lovers.
Maybe one of you can help me.
I replaced the pas sensor a few days ago because it no longer worked.
After I installed the new one and turned the crank once I could see that the led went on and off and the pas works.

But the engine didn't turn ...
I suspected that I had adjusted something and reloaded the parameter file into the Asibac800. I think I loaded a Phaserunner.xml into the controller ...

Now to the problem.
I can no longer see any parameters in Bacdoor and cannot save them if I change them manually.
When I try to load my original parameter file it loads up to 1% and that's it.
bacdoor shows no Error, and controller led is not flashing.

 

[Tommm]

Now to the problem.
I can no longer see any parameters in Bacdoor and cannot save them if I change them manually.
When I try to load my original parameter file it loads up to 1% and that's it.
bacdoor shows no Error, and controller led is not flashing.

Left side menu, switch to advanced mode (maybe under swap layouts)

 

[Macmaxi]

Basic or advanced I tested both.
not able to save parameter or load a parameter file

 

[xenodius]

Basic or advanced I tested both.
not able to save parameter or load a parameter file

Have you tried uploading a new ASI parameter dictionary, or have you just been working with parameter profiles? It's unclear to me from your description if you uploaded a Phaserunner parameter dictionary, or Phaserunner parameter profile.

If you uploaded the wrong parameter dictionary OR parameter profile you need to upload the correct parameter dictionary before you will be able to save any parameters. I think this is because when the Phaserunner parameter profile has non-overlapping register definitions vs. your previously saved parameter profile, it throws an error when you try to load a new parameter dictionary as it can't define all the values in all the registers.

The file should be an "ASIObjectDictionary.xml". It's important to have a version that corresponds to the firmware you are using on your controller. You must ensure the object dictionary you use matches your firmware. Do not brick your controller, please. I've attached the 6.013 and 6.016 dictionaries below, if you have another FW/HW version you'll have to ask ASI for it. You can upload the file in BacDoor mobile, the button is right next to the upload firmware button somewhere on the top of the left pane.

 

[Macmaxi]

Hello and thank you very much for your efforts to help.
I was lucky in bad luck.
I had already ordered a bac 800 as a replacement and a ttl programming cable for the pc suite.
What can I say, I loaded a new parameter file onto the Asi with the asi pc program and then everything was freely configurable again ...
Only one problem remains. The programming ... Unfortunately, I have too little technical understanding of the settings ...
Back then I had somehow got it going, but never as it should be
And since I need the bike every day, I don't experiment a lot ...

 

[xenodius]

Hello Macmaxi,
I've subscribed to this topic now-- if you describe any errors you're having, I'd be happy to help you troubleshoot. The new ASI documentation on the support page is a lot better than it was, if you follow it carefully from the beginning you shouldn't run into trouble. But there are exceptions, and sometimes the answers are esoteric. Or we could try on the phone, if you PM me.

And as I'm sure you now realize, it's a good idea to save a backup profile once you've configured and tuned it!

 

[Macmaxi]

Hello Xenodius. Thank you for your interest in wanting to help me with my problem. My bike hasn't ridden for a few weeks now. ASI is a bitch. In the meantime I have my Bac free again. I also received a new parameter file with the basic settings. For the software problem, I also uncovered errors in the cabling, which I wasn't aware of before because it was running (even if not at the highest level). Phases A and B were probably swapped, and so was a reverb line. Why did the engine run with this error at all? . It wasn't easy, but it seems to be working again. Short test drive to the bakery this morning. Hopefully I'll have more time to test tomorrow. Conclusion is at least until now that my current parameter profile is drivable and apparently also the engine temperature, which I have tried for so long, is finally displayed correctly. I attach my parameter file if interested. My motor is a Mac 10t 16 motor pole pairs 320rpm with 48v battery

 

[Macmaxi]

Hallo Xenodius.
Today I could ride my bike for a good 12km. Ivh use the Asibac with the Eggrider display and the 2 profiles that also work very well. My remaining problem, however, is getting started ... When I start at the highest level (5. Approx. 500W) in Eco mode using Pas and Throttle, the engine starts cleanly. Everything great. But if I want to start in sport mode at the highest level (5 ca 1500W) with throttle or pas it jerks or nothing happens . But if I start in eco mode and switch to sport while driving (approx. 20 kmh), it works perfectly and the engine pushes cleanly and powerfully up to approx. 45 kmh. If, for example, I drive down a slope in sport mode and accelerate with throttle, the engine stutters again and there is no assistance. I suspect that something is wrong with the hall sensors, but I stuck to the pinouts of Asi and Mac so this behavior surprises me very much ...

I don't know if you can figure this situation out. Perhaps you will notice something in the parameter file that I posted earlier. Maybe it's just a programming mistake of mine?!?!

 

[xenodius]

I also uncovered errors in the cabling, which I wasn't aware of before because it was running (even if not at the highest level). Phases A and B were probably swapped, and so was a reverb line. Why did the engine run with this error at all? .

I'm going to assume your cabling is fixed since it sounds like you're running now. If not or in the future it should be easy to verify what's what if you have a multimeter (if you don't have one, you won't regret getting one-- you can use it to troubleshoot your bike someday if/when something fails)

There is a bit in Features to swap two of the phases, so you don't have to do it physically just FYI.

What is a reverb line? What error did you have before? And precisely what error are you having now? It sounds like you're hitting a protection limit-- can you use the BacDoor mobile app? It will tell you which fault you're getting. Alternatively the LED on the controller will flash a code (x short flashes then x long flashes) that can be used to identify which fault is being tripped.

 

[Macmaxi]

I merged the cabling according to the manufacturer's instructions or their pinouts. To be able to do an Asi autotuning, I still had to swap a phase with Bacdoor. I have attached the manufacturer information in the photos.
As far as I know, I don't have an error code.
But tomorrow I will do another lap with an active bacdoor and will see if any errors are displayed

 

[xenodius]

When I start at the highest level (5. Approx. 500W) in Eco mode using Pas and Throttle, the engine starts cleanly. Everything great. But if I want to start in sport mode at the highest level (5 ca 1500W) with throttle or pas it jerks or nothing happens . But if I start in eco mode and switch to sport while driving (approx. 20 kmh), it works perfectly and the engine pushes cleanly and powerfully up to approx. 45 kmh. If, for example, I drive down a slope in sport mode and accelerate with throttle, the engine stutters again and there is no assistance.
...
As far as I know, I don't have an error code.
But tomorrow I will do another lap with an active bacdoor and will see if any errors are displayed

What you described sounds like you're hitting either a low voltage limit, or high current limit. When one of the limits is hit the controller cuts out completely, albeit momentarily. IIRC those cutoffs don't leave a persistent 'error' on the controller, like a hall sensor fault would, but they will show up in the mobile or PC app while you're connected. If there's no error on the controller then I'd look to your BMS/battery... Maybe experiment with some of the controller "Protection and Fault Threshold" registers first. Without more information about your bike (e.g. battery type, peak rated current, voltage sag while you're riding, etc) I can't really comment on whether your settings are correct.

 

[Vinsanity]

Hello

I purchased an ASI BAC 8000 controller from Lightspeed bikes. It was configured by ERT for the SUR RON.

FYI - tried contacting Alan at ERT and no response go figure. He does great work when he decides to, but it’s been a year of trying to get help from him ?

I am using it on a QS 205 hub motor with a 72 volts battery with 300 amp BMS from Lightspeed.

Can anyone here help me out with programming this controller - right now it’s an expensive but useless item.

Thanks.

Vince

 

[Macmaxi]

Hi
i often read in a Facebook Forum for Sur Ron.
Many Members have the Asi bac 8000.
Maybe can someone give you his own Parameter File to load it in your Sur Ron.

The group name is
High powered Sur Rons (Facebook)

2900Members... i think there is someone who can help you.

 

[Doctorbass]

Hello

I purchased an ASI BAC 8000 controller from Lightspeed bikes. It was configured by ERT for the SUR RON.

FYI - tried contacting Alan at ERT and no response go figure. He does great work when he decides to, but it’s been a year of trying to get help from him ?

I am using it on a QS 205 hub motor with a 72 volts battery with 300 amp BMS from Lightspeed.

Can anyone here help me out with programming this controller - right now it’s an expensive but useless item.

Thanks.

Vince

Vinsanity, I succesfully contacted him in the last days. I had long discussion with him. I was aware of many people had difficulty to reach him for various reasons, but i did not entered too much that subject and focused more on my request. I have a ERT controller, A litespeed harness but no working display. The harness for ERT and Litespeed for eggrider are different and supply different VOLTAGE so these are not compatible. I made a drawing of both pinout so you can better understand that these are not the same wiring. one is using 5V ( the ERT) to supply the display and will blow if you supply it with higher voltage, and teh eggrider is on 12V or 48V i think. Plus the TX and RX for UART communication are swapped. I know someone that was able to reprogram his controller to different system than ERT PM me i'll give you the contact.

 

[xxbeastxx]

Remove please

 

[john61ct]

Have you reached out to the EU guy?

 

[Tony01]

Guys I gave up on ASI. The fact that they’re just as easy to smoke as any shitty controller, no documentation, no support really, no access if you buy a brick alone.

Sometimes they smoke themselves.

If the phase wires short (ie, you lowside your hub-motored bike and road rash the phase wires) it smokes.

All I wanted was to have a brake light turn on when I used variable regen. Guess what, nobody knows how to do that either.

After you get over the smooth control, after you get over the field weakening... what do you have.. a controller that’s no better than any cheap controller except that it can handle high power. Well maybe not that high if it’s gonna smoke itself eventually.

Luckily I sold my bac8000 before I smoked it.

When you pay close to $1000 for a brick alone, it better have support, documentation, and protections. I believe we all bought into the hype. 3 years after I bought my first one the same setup questions still went unanswered.

I made my own wire harnesses too. I still have a few of the correct molex connectors. If somebody needs em let me know.