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Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Yeah. I have owned a convertible which you couldn't close the doors if you opened one with a wheel in the air.

Did anyone get a frame manual with their frame? Can you send it to me?

(EDIT) Sorted. Thank you!
 
Merlin said:
i dont think so, because
a: when you take a look at other frames who has also sideplates, the qulbix would be the tuffest without sideplates. because the 165er frame has a smaller opening.
i think i couldnt explain well in english....the structure of the frame (welded) is like a 200mm big tube. if you grind this "tube" on 2 sides, it looks like a "bridge" constructure.
if i complain to a vector, i think this frame will flex alot more.
Click to expand...

actually the tubular frames design is much stronger, that's why Honda, Ducati, Yamaha, BMW and others are doing it tubular, not like a box from steel sheets :)
 
a bit of apples and pear ;)
motorcycles need some place for a motor and that stuff around :D
sry that i said without destroying tests that a qulbix maybe the strongest build. :p

had somebody read me that iam rolling the 165er Raptor since he was build vom Qulbix?
iam preeeeeeeetttyyy sure theres not even one broken chassis out there......
our well known "offroader" even dont killed one ;)

oh hey, wasnt their some brocken dropouts? do no....we re talking about the chassis ;D
cmon, i dont buy a frame because its the proofed best rock stable frame. (in my opinion all steel Frames are ok for our use)
i buy this one i like.....optic, size for battery, usability + price.

if i could get a wish, i would prefer a "street frame".....all "manufacturers" only build that wanna-be offroad stuff.
wheres the Streetmachine with lots of battery space and a real deep centre of gravity :p
Slim enough for a 68mm bottom bracket plz :p

oh hey, maybe a Q76R is an option? :mrgreen:

to be honest...i like from every "brand" out there some sweet details. But atm no one covers all "sweet details" i like.

this small Q76 looks like a good build for my girlfriend. and i am finished my 165er last week. so i need a new project to waste my freetime :D
 
Merlin said:
are they really using computer 19" Rackmount screws for the sideplates? *doh :roll:
can someone tell me whats the size INSIDE the Frame with this big nuts?

@Mallory, you measured 72mm. can you please measure between the sideplate nuts? ty
Click to expand...
63mm, sorry about the delay.

Also, I did get a manual for the q76r frame. Is there any reason I shouldn't post it here instead of pm'ing lurkin?
 
Ziva hadn't so I assumed there was a reason, probably to prevent it from being accessible by competitors?

I have it now, more than happy to PM it around if others need it.
 
hmm. So looks like the frame was painted after the BB was reamed and its snuck into the BB threads on the drive side... Have tried to clean off the threads with a razor blade, but its still jamming.

Take it its off to a bike shop to get re-reamed to clean the threads? :lol:

Annnddd.. did anyone else purchase a standard DNM rear shock (not from Quilbix) and found the standard bushing etc is too narrow? If so, did you use washers to space the difference or purchase a wider mount kit?
 
My first raptor I stripped the 1st bottom bracket on one side putting it in. I was careful also, but could have went slower. If you feel any resistance at all back off, and try again.
Mine also looked like a bit of paint spray in there, I do think that may have caused some issues but I don't know because the next one I put in went in smoothly.

I'm considering going with one of these bearings on my shock. Just for the side that moves alot not both sides to save on cost.
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id275.html
 
Yeah, the non drive side went in ok without any additional work, despite a little overspray on that side.

There was enough of the drive side to completely block the threads. I've scraped them out but I just really dont want to force the thread. I think its a bike shop job.

Damn son, those bearings are fancy! 8) Sweet idea, but a needle bearing on the business end of a shock?
 
if there is paint in the BB threads, i personally would grind it out with a dremel or multifunctional tool by using such small wire grinder:

dremel.jpg

btw: nice find for the shock bushings with needle bearing^^
 
I have question about the key switch : how do wire it? I was planning to put it right after the main batt, cutting the positive wire but... Does that switch can really sustain 30A ?
How do you guys did with your previous builds?
 
TheBMallory said:
I have question about the key switch : how do wire it? I was planning to put it right after the main batt, cutting the positive wire but... Does that switch can really sustain 30A ?
How do you guys did with your previous builds?
Click to expand...

No way it can handle 30A continuous.

basically it depends on your controller. If you have an on/off wires on your controller it will shut it on or off. If you have a Max-E, you can get this controller or modify it to turn the controller on and off.

So it depends on what controller you have and what wires you have coming out of the controller.
 
madin88 said:
if there is paint in the BB threads, i personally would grind it out with a dremel or multifunctional tool by using such small wire grinder:



btw: nice find for the shock bushings with needle bearing^^
Click to expand...

Yes, I believe I actually did use a wire brush before installing the 2nd bottom bracket, now that I think about it. Probably a good idea to use it on my Q76R raptor when I get it.

I'm surprised that Qulbix doesn't run the tap through the bottom bracket after painting. He must have the tap to make the bike frame, would only take a minute to do. I guess he doesn't know it is an issue because for most people it isn't a problem. Those Aluminum bottom bracket threads will easily strip like butter if you do not go in perfectly straight.
 
Offroader said:
TheBMallory said:
I have question about the key switch : how do wire it? I was planning to put it right after the main batt, cutting the positive wire but... Does that switch can really sustain 30A ?
How do you guys did with your previous builds?
Click to expand...

No way it can handle 30A continuous.

basically it depends on your controller. If you have an on/off wires on your controller it will shut it on or off. If you have a Max-E, you can get this controller or modify it to turn the controller on and off.

So it depends on what controller you have and what wires you have coming out of the controller.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks for the info, my controller doesn't have a on/off switch. Oh well...

I guess I can wire it to one of the brake cutoff wire as I use hydraulic brakes, that way it would kill the motor but there would still be a little battery drain...
Or maybe build myself a small relay board...

Edit: just found this : https://estore-sslserver.eu/ebike-distribution.fr/epages/6f0ae033-c8fe-4a9d-b71d-5e69cad76385.sf/sec4e86d8cf6f/?ObjectPath=/Shops/6f0ae033-c8fe-4a9d-b71d-5e69cad76385/Products/3531A
 
I changed my previous BB for this BB&crankset combo : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fr/en/race-face-chester-crank-arms/rp-prod82881
It works really well and I had enough space to put the pedal assist sensor

I changed my rear derailleur cable and it goes inside the frame now.

Mechanics is done now and I'm now waiting for the battery and some electrinic parts to arrive to continue my build. Here's a shot of the inside of the frame (with the wood stick in order to raise the battery a little
midthumb_1456664113DSC09187.JPG

I did take the bike outside and made some runs around my house. Everything seems okay...

Also I'll be putting this on my side plate !
panelyellow_01.jpg

I'll probably make a thunder shaped mask for this.
 
TheBMallory said:
I changed my previous BB for this BB&crankset combo : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fr/en/race-face-chester-crank-arms/rp-prod82881
It works really well and I had enough space to put the pedal assist sensor

I changed my rear derailleur cable and it goes inside the frame now.

Mechanics is done now and I'm now waiting for the battery and some electrinic parts to arrive to continue my build. Here's a shot of the inside of the frame (with the wood stick in order to raise the battery a little
I did take the bike outside and made some runs around my house. Everything seems okay...
Click to expand...

We have the same crankset! Did you use any of the spacers? I will also be using pedal assist...
 
For electrical newbs would anyone be willing to put up a diagram of how this circuit works?

Looks like I have a day of cutting a rolling spokes 8)
 
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