Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Mammalian04 said:
Offroader said:
TheBMallory, can you post a link to that relay? Curious to see the specs on it.


Would probably need to be one hell of a relay. Not wimpy general automotive stuff.

That is why I'm curious because of the amount of amps he will have to push through that thing.
 
Hey,
The link for the relay has been posted in one of my previous posts. Here it is :

http://ebike-distribution.fr/epages/6f0ae033-c8fe-4a9d-b71d-5e69cad76385.sf/fr_FR/?ObjectPath=/Shops/6f0ae033-c8fe-4a9d-b71d-5e69cad76385/Products/3531A

There's not much specs. It just says "48v 30A" which is what I'm running.

As for the wiring, is just grabbed the first link from Google and asked my dad (who is more electronic savy) if this gonna blow up :

https://www.google.fr/search?q=how+to+wire+a+relay&oq=ho&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j0j35i39j69i61l2j69i60.1826j0j4&client=tablet-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=wGKJKoVUxPUJ6M%3A


Apparently not
 
Battery finally arrived :
midthumb_1457198273IMG_20160305_170747532.jpg


And first electric ride (no pics)! Everything seems to run smooth. I haven't wired the charge cable yet so I had to open it again... I'm also still missing my buck converter for a 5v USB plug
 
Hi guys,
my build goes slow!!!!, but I hope my wheels arrive soon, they are in Spain ...

 
TheBMallory said:
Time to add some bling!
https://youtu.be/S9Ul6zJOHKI

awesome :)
 
EDIT: made battery count mistake, I thought I had 240 cells, but in pictures it is actually 270 cells. I can get 274 cells in the frame if packed together. There is still room around the edges for some balance wires.

Finally got my frame today. Very nice, it actually exceeded my expectations and they were very high for this frame. It is much thinner than I expected. Build quality looks to be extremely good as normal with Qulbix frames and frame is very light. Looks like Qulbix tried to shave weight off this even more than the weight savings in the raptor 140.

Makes my now obsolete Raptor 165 look like a beast in comparison. The 165 is without doubt obsolete in that it is heavy and bulky, the 140 and the Q76R they went to great lengths to cut down on weight. That being said I took my Raptor 165 out for a hard ride and maybe last ride today and it still rides amazing and is extremely comfortable. I'll have to see how comfortable the Q76R is because it will have a much more narrow seat.

This build I want it to be about 30 lbs lighter, but with the same power and 30% more battery capacity compared to my raptor 165. From my calculations it should be possible. Raptor 165 = 135lbs Q76R hopefully 105 lbs.

The silver color is also a very nice color, I like it a lot more compared to white.

I placed 240 18650 cells inside the battery compartment and it fits nicely, with a little room around the edges also. I was getting a little worried if I would fit the 240 cells, but they fit. Could probably fit a few more, but that is about it. If you got creative you can fit cells in the front of the bike.

It took forever to just line up 240 cells, I can imagine the hours it will take me to build and weld the pack.

The sticker color got mixed up somehow, I may not have been clear so my fault. But I got all yellow stickers, I wanted yellow where it said Q76R and white where it said Qulbix, like the one in the picture they have of their silver bike. Oh well, I can always get these. I guess I'll have to see how the all yellow looks.

I had the head tube reduced by 10mm at the top. Looks fine. I recommend this to anyone planning to use forks like the Marzocchi 888 because without this the 150 mm is too long and you will have to go past the min / max lines on the fork. Also gives me some extra fork adjustment room when I use big 26"x 3.00" tires.

Without doubt, in my opinion, this is probably the best frame out there right now for a thin bike. Best if you want the bike to pass as a bicycle which is important for me. 18650 cells are also the way to go right now and the technology is there to use such a thin frame and get high power and capacity. Thin is in now.

240 Sanyo 3500 MAH cells inside frame


I also got a bicycle seat in black.


It is so much thinner than my Raptor 165. Looks to be like 1/3rd the width. Can't believe I'll fit a 3KW pack in that, when my Raptor 165 only has a 2.3 KW pack.


Head tube cut at top by 10 mm. Looks good.







Thank God I won't have to deal with Lipo Packs anymore. Look at that mess, took me ages to remove the pack for service.
 
Wow, that frame just says "Quality" QC attention to welding is fantastic!!.. im sold!!.

Thanks for the photos...
 
mxer said:
Wow, that frame just says "Quality" QC attention to welding is fantastic!!.. im sold!!.

Thanks for the photos...

Yes, the reason the frame quality control is so good is that the engineer who designs the frame also welds the frames. I don't know if this changed but I believe it hasn't. There was an article which this was spoken about. He takes quality control seriously. Which is important because I've heard of swing arms not being centered and stuff like that with other frames.
 
This is really nice offroader. Much thinner than it seems when compared with Torque 165.

What controller are you planning on using? Will it fit in the cage? Can you post a picture of the controller mounted? If not for the 155mm dropout, I would have been sold on this thin frame, hooked up with a leaf 1500 or MAC motor. I really hope Qulbix comes out with 140 mm dropout specifically for the 140 frame.

Cheers.
 
sonnetg said:
This is really nice offroader. Much thinner than it seems when compared with Torque 165.

What controller are you planning on using? Will it fit in the cage? Can you post a picture of the controller mounted? If not for the 155mm dropout, I would have been sold on this thin frame, hooked up with a leaf 1500 or MAC motor. I really hope Qulbix comes out with 140 mm dropout specifically for the 140 frame.

Cheers.

Thanks, I'll show you a comparison against a Raptor 140 tomorrow. It should look even much thinner than the 140.

I'm going to mount the max-E. Yes it will fit in the controller protector. Unfortunately I'll have to dismount the controller from my Raptor 165. Probably will get to doing that sometime next week and I'll post. The Max-E will be only a couple of mm wider than the frame, it will mostly look flush.

sonnetg, I believe you can get any width dropout you want. Qulbix should work with you, I had them do some modifications. If you ask them for a 140 dropout I think they will be able to do it.

The Raptor 140 swingarm is the same as the one on the Q76R, both are interchangeable.

But damn, is this frame ridiculously thin, every time I look at it I can't believe how thin it is. I'll for sure not have any issues bringing my bike on the Staten Island Ferry, or anyplace a bike can go.
 
Update, the frame can hold 281 cells if stacked together. That will just fit the pack in with not too much room. A tight fit on the top left side.

This gave me an idea, originally I thought I can only fit 240 cells for a 20s12p pack. if I can fit 280 cells, why not go with a 20s14p pack.

That would give me ~3.5kw pack.

That is just crazy large and I have the cells to do it. It will add almost 5lbs of battery weight, which is the only drawback. I did want this build to be a light weight as possible. The advantage is it will give me that long range ebike that I always wanted.

The other issue is it is a tight fit to get in 280 cells, I believe I can get the main battery wires and balance wires to still connect so I don't see any reason why a tight fit will matter. I will still have plenty of padding around the battery because I am only putting batteries in the frame opening.

Does anyone see any issues with this tight fit of 280 cells? It is possible I am overlooking something.

Here is the frame with 281 cells, which is the most 18650 cells you can fit.



 
Offroader said:
Thanks, I'll show you a comparison against a Raptor 140 tomorrow. It should look even much thinner than the 140.

I'm going to mount the max-E. Yes it will fit in the controller protector. Unfortunately I'll have to dismount the controller from my Raptor 165. Probably will get to doing that sometime next week and I'll post. The Max-E will be only a couple of mm wider than the frame, it will mostly look flush.

sonnetg, I believe you can get any width dropout you want. Qulbix should work with you, I had them do some modifications. If you ask them for a 140 dropout I think they will be able to do it.

The Raptor 140 swingarm is the same as the one on the Q76R, both are interchangeable.

But damn, is this frame ridiculously thin, every time I look at it I can't believe how thin it is. I'll for sure not have any issues bringing my bike on the Staten Island Ferry, or anyplace a bike can go.

Cool. I had no idea MAX-E was so tiny. That's a lot of battery in such a small space. If I build a Q76R, I will using battery holders, which will take up fair amount of space, but I should still have more capacity than I will ever need (20S8P is sufficient for me, even less if i go with a MAC (14S8P)). I am still waiting for my Raptor 140 frame to be shipped. I had no idea Qulbix offers customization, but I am glad to know they do offer. my next ebike build will have to be lightweight (< 70lbs), and something which I can pass off as an electric bicycle. The Raptor 140 screams dirt bike, which is exactly what I wanted, but that will be for occasional and offroad use only. I might even be able to re-use the same battery in both bikes.

Do keep us posted on your build & Good luck. 8)
 
@Offroader the only thing I can think of that might interfere is how you decide to keep the pack together. Cell holders are out the window as your cells on the pics are so tightly arranged. Could it be that pack size will increase too much to fit when bonded together? If you use hot glue on the batteries along with maybe something to secure the sidewalls of battery pack from ever exposing the welds/nickel to to avoid shorting out the pack, the size of the completed spot welded/wrapped pack will be larger then in your picks here.
 
Could you be so nice and post a few pics of the swingarm (also the bottom side near the damper)? Because i wan't to figure out if it would be doable to install a big block or transmag motor there
Yes, it looks really well fabricated. thats great!
 
Very nice frame, when they cut it in half it will be instabuy for me.
18(20)s6p is max what I want to carry around when jumping around in the woods.
Your old one looks ridiculously wide in comparison, cant believe people used that frame offroad
 

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Off-roader, could you please document your battery build. It looks amazing and will be invaluable for others who are trying to shoe horn as many cells as they can into this frame. Very nice project you have there which should be stealthy enough to pass as a bike
 
Quokka said:
Off-roader, could you please document your battery build. It looks amazing and will be invaluable for others who are trying to shoe horn as many cells as they can into this frame. Very nice project you have there which should be stealthy enough to pass as a bike

Sure.

After much thought I decided I'm going to use 280 cells and max out the battery size.

20s14p 3500 MAH Sanyo cells, for 3.5KW battery pack. I always wanted a long range Ebike so I figured it is worth the extra weight. I didn't think this bike would hold such a large pack and only planned for 240 cells.

I had to plan my whole pack again took a lot of hours but I finished the cell layout.

What you have to understand is that because of the odd pack shape you need to use both copper wires and nickel strips to distribute the current evenly through the cells. IF you are using less cells to get a square or rectangle pack size you may be able to use just nickel strip.

Here is my Cell layout, different colors are parallel groups. Copper wires will connect each of the two cells in series. It took hours and lots of revisions to get the cell layout efficiently. I think it is really designed well. A computer program would be nice to design packs optimally.

Tomorrow I will hot glue this pack together.

 
Thanks offroader :D will be interesting to see what size nickel strip you use. Probably need to run multiple strips to deal with the current. You planning to use an adaptto bms?
 
Quokka said:
Thanks offroader :D will be interesting to see what size nickel strip you use. Probably need to run multiple strips to deal with the current. You planning to use an adaptto bms?

I'm going to parallel the cells with .2 x 10 mm nickel. Then I will use 16 AWG copper wire cut to exact length to connect the cells in series.

If you take a look at the picture I drew in lines which will be 16 AWG copper wire connecting every two parallel cells in series. Copper wire is better because I would need 4 times the quantity of nickel. Plus I would not be able to evenly distribute the current through the cells with nickel strips.

I optimized the wire size and nickel size so there should be very little power loss even when pushing peak 140 amps through the battery.

 
Allex said:
Let us know how many hours you will spend on gluing them!

I think that will go quickly, hopefully. What is going to take a long time is soldering all the wires to the nickel strips. I'll have to solder 140 wires to strips, which is 280 solder connections.
 
Allex said:
Let us know how many hours you will spend on gluing them!

gluing i would say is nuts compared to the time it will take to weld and solder the connections :lol: , but thats the price for squeezing highest possible number of cells into it..

if i build a 76R, i would make something like 20s8p or 9p with the rows side by side and 25mm nickel. Allex, you will understand what i mean :)
 
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