Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

[nio88]

Hi guys,
my frame arrived!!! Now I need to buy some parts,and I´m looking for the biggest crankset that we could mount in the frame, any suggestion?
I just found the Zee M645, but it´s just 36T



Thanks.

 

[Offroader]

Hi guys,
my frame arrived!!! Now I need to buy some parts,and I´m looking for the biggest crankset that we could mount in the frame, any suggestion?
I just found the Zee M645, but it´s just 36T



Thanks.

What do you mean by the biggest crankset?

I believe you will have to buy an aftermarket chain ring and install it on the crankset.

Keep the pictures coming guys, would like to see how the stickers look if any of you bought them.

 

[Quokka]

Hi guys, I have one of these beasts on order, no tracking number yet with the frame expected in mid March. Have gone with the schlumpf option to be fitted by Qulbix with dropout re enforcements. My Cromotor wheel set turned up on Friday, but somehow I ended with 24" rims instead of the 26" rims I was after What size rims are you guys planning on running? I guess these things are comparable to a 19" moto rim

 

[TheBMallory]

Just a quick update to say that it took me half a second to put the new starnut using the proper tool.
I'm also done with the rear disc brake and 9 speed derailleur (pics to follow tomorrow as I didn't have my camera today)

 

[scorpionice]

keep it coming guys...cheers

 

[nio88]

What do you mean by the biggest crankset?

I believe you will have to buy an aftermarket chain ring and install it on the crankset.

Keep the pictures coming guys, would like to see how the stickers look if any of you bought them.

Yes, you´re right, my doubts were if any 44T chain ring will suit in the zee crankset, but I think so....

I didn´t buy the stickers, my idea is cut a cover plates in carbon fiber...

For the wheel, i bought an old montesa rim (19") for 10€ (13$), and my brother in law rim the wheel with my motor...

 

[TheBMallory]

Quick question for those who already have this sort of frame : where do you route your rear brake and derailleur cables ? Do you put them inside the frame ?
I see on some qulbix photos that they made it go through the ESC box but I don't have one

 

[nio88]

Quick question for those who already have this sort of frame : where do you route your rear brake and derailleur cables ? Do you put them inside the frame ?
I see on some qulbix photos that they made it go through the ESC box but I don't have one

The frame have a couple of holes (front and back), so i guess both are for that... I will upload a photo after lunch!!!

 

[TheBMallory]

So !
first off the rear wheel. Just so you know, I use a standard 135mm width magic pie 5. I first properly aligned the disc side as there's not much you can do on this side :

I then put some washers so I have enough room to fit the end nut. I'm not gonna lie, I bent the arm a tiny tiny bit here, but it seem to be mostly ok :

I'm lucky, the derailleur I had had enough travel to reach every speed of the cassette. but if it didn't, something like this would have helped : http://lunacycle.com/motors/hub-motor-accessories/1-2-inch-free-wheel-spacer-for-hub-motors/
I just had to adjust the high and low limit screws and I can say that the derailleur is perfectly aligned.

my starnut problem has been worked out and I cleared the headset a little (green handle grip thing because, yeah !)

BB is installed but, I don't know if this is because I used to unmount this thing a LOT in my previous bike, the inner BB axle seems a bit too short and I had trouble having enough length to the other side to screw the two arms together (I'm not sure if I'm beeing clear here). Basically I'm wondering if the BB tube of the frame is a little to long or if it is the width of my crank arms that is too small. Also, I'm not very impressed by the paint job of the frame. some of it (not much and it isn't noticeable) came off while installing the BB. I mean, the frame is great, but the paint job is nothing like my santa cruz bike wich pretty much still looks new even after 5 years of riding.
The rear derailleur cable is too short, new cable is on it's way.

the mechanics are almost done. next weekend will probably be the electronics. I just purchased the battery and the buck stepdown voltage converter.

here's the current state of the build.
[youtube]yEpIX5J7Jzs[/youtube]

 

[Offroader]

TheBmallory, are you using 83mm cranks and 83mm bottom bracket? You need both correct sizes to work properly with the Q76R 83mm bottom bracket?

 

[TheBMallory]

TheBmallory, are you using 83mm cranks and 83mm bottom bracket? You need both correct sizes to work properly with the Q76R 83mm bottom bracket?

Yup 83mm ! A new one is on its way so I'll be able to say if it is the frame or my current bb !

 

[scorpionice]

What's the size of your dropout?

 

[TheBMallory]

Standard 150mm

 

[Merlin]

are they really using computer 19" Rackmount screws for the sideplates? *doh
can someone tell me whats the size INSIDE the Frame with this big nuts?

@Mallory, you measured 72mm. can you please measure between the sideplate nuts? ty

 

[TheBMallory]

are they really using computer 19" Rackmount screws for the sideplates? *doh
can someone tell me whats the size INSIDE the Frame with this big nuts?

@Mallory, you measured 72mm. can you please measure between the sideplate nuts? ty

Will do that this evening.
On this matter, I planned to put a stick of wood under my battery so that it would never really touch the bottom steel of the frame, and I would be able to use the full width 72mm or so without worrying about the nuts.

 

[Merlin]

i have done the same on my 165er Raptor(wood plate), since they welded the nuts inside

 

[Offroader]

Merlin, did your 165 really have the welded nuts inside? My 165 didn't, the metal frame was just tapped. I guess they figured that wasn't strong enough by itself, which makes sense. The 140 has welded nuts. I thought because the 140 had a thinner steel, but stronger steel, that they needed the extra nut support. A bolt held on by just a few mm of thin steel sheet just isn't that strong, and you could strip the threads easily.

It looks like the Q76R has removable steel clips to hold the bolts instead of welded nuts.

Remember, the outside width of the frame is 76mm, so the battery width between the two side panels is 76mm. That is where i intend to place the battery between the two side panels to have the battery easily removed.

 

[Merlin]

yes, my (2nd) 165er Frame has welded nuts.
i dont like that. my first one has only the thread in the frame of 2mm?
since i use lipos i had to open every day the frame and had never problems.
i sold this frame to a buddy. And he is still ok with the thread. (i had to tell that this guy had kills alot of screws because he has no feeling for it )

on this 76mm frame i would go with lipos again. (if it fits) so the "removeable computer rack nuts" arent that cool it looks for others

a really sweet option are magnet covers. 10 of them and your sidecover is in place. just 2 screws on the outside to hold them axial in place. thats it.

 

[ziltoid81]

i have done the same on my 165er Raptor(wood plate), since they welded the nuts inside

I noticed that AFTER my battery was spot welded......i had to cut at least one of the welded nuts off.
I was raging when i got remembered that there are some weldet nuts and my battery needs the full space..

But in the end it was my faulty, lazy measurement......

 

[Offroader]

yes, my (2nd) 165er Frame has welded nuts.
i dont like that. my first one has only the thread in the frame of 2mm?
since i use lipos i had to open every day the frame and had never problems.
i sold this frame to a buddy. And he is still ok with the thread. (i had to tell that this guy had kills alot of screws because he has no feeling for it )

on this 76mm frame i would go with lipos again. (if it fits) so the "removeable computer rack nuts" arent that cool it looks for others

a really sweet option are magnet covers. 10 of them and your sidecover is in place. just 2 screws on the outside to hold them axial in place. thats it.

I believe you need the screws because those side covers offer structural support. That is what Qulbix said. DO you really think just 2 screws would be strong enough?

For my 165 raptor, the side cover bolts were too long so I actually cut them so they would not stick into my battery compartment.

 

[madin88]

I believe you need the screws because those side covers offer structural support. That is what Qulbix said. DO you really think just 2 screws would be strong enough?

agreed!
without properly attached sidecovers the frame will flex much more. for instance in situations like hard braking on the front (front wheelie). flexing sooner or later will lead to metal fatique.

 

[Lurkin]

If anyone has a copy of the Q76R manual, feel free to PM it to me. (did you guys get one in the box?)

(EDIT) Sorted. Thank you!

 

[Merlin]

I believe you need the screws because those side covers offer structural support. That is what Qulbix said. DO you really think just 2 screws would be strong enough?

agreed!
without properly attached sidecovers the frame will flex much more. for instance in situations like hard braking on the front (front wheelie). flexing sooner or later will lead to metal fatique.

i dont think so, because
a: when you take a look at other frames who has also sideplates, the qulbix would be the tuffest without sideplates. because the 165er frame has a smaller opening.
i think i couldnt explain well in english....the structure of the frame (welded) is like a 200mm big tube. if you grind this "tube" on 2 sides, it looks like a "bridge" constructure.
if i complain to a vector, i think this frame will flex alot more.

but
b: the holes from the sideplates are so big that if you put on the sideplates, theres a lot of room for the screws.if we had the power in our hands we could move the tighten plate at the frame some millimeters in every direction. maybe its better understanding if i complain to a car door.
yes, the door is close, but the door gives no stiffness to the car chassis. (this is why sportscars have never more then 2 doors)
(If you want to feel the working chassis, just drive your car, and sqeeze your finger in the rubber sealing of the doors. you will feel how the door "moves")

on the raptor plates it is the same. the plates are there, but i am 100% sure if you go offroad the sideplades can move on a "working frame"

i know qulbix said it is structual support. but how many support can make a sideplate who isnt "really" fixed on the frame. In that case the Monster-Steel-Frame flexes, i dont care because iam not riding anymore offroad. my actual Raptor is just a streetmachine.
with my first frame i never had any problems. Both plates had rubber sealings between plate and frame.(Raind proof) Looks like i never had real structure sideplate support.

 

[ecycler]

maybe its better understanding if i complain to a car door.
yes, the door is close, but the door gives no stiffness to the car chassis. (this is why sportscars have never more then 2 doors)
(If you want to feel the working chassis, just drive your car, and sqeeze your finger in the rubber sealing of the doors. you will feel how the door "moves")

Actually, there are some sports cars that you should never open the doors or hatch when it is jacked up on only one corner. The hinges and latches do actually provide some level of chassis stiffness.

It should be pretty easy to test if the side panels provide much if any rigidity to the frame... just install the panels with a bunch of magnets to hold it on and then insert wooden perfectly fitting dowels in 3 or 4 of the panel mounting and frame holes on each side, ride that sucker around and see if any of the dowels break or show extreme scoring from flex.

 

[ecycler]

Please note, this may be a very bad idea as if they are right you could catastrophically destroy your frame and yourself if you produced a dynamic stress event well past the limit!