r3volved's LR Norco @72v

r3volved said:
This Phaserunner ended up being a huge pita to setup for this motor. There's too many parameters and I'm not smart enough to understand it yet.

I am contemplating a new controller under 40 or under now that I know the power of this kit at this voltage.

Could Grin have set up the controller plug and play? If not, why not? Is it possible to have a temperature probe in this? I am thinking of not using one on this motor because it so geared down and sheds the heat beyond my wildest dreams.

The complexity that you have encountered here makes me worried as I hate huge manuals. Not sure maybe a lyen or grinfineon...
 
The lyen that Mike sent me has been the bees knees! I just had one minor repair from the heaviest rain I've ever biked in...it gets warm at 3kw but handled 5 fine for the time I was unlimited. I never did get the Phaserunner to work right so it's shelved until I get a little hub for my BMX
 
For anyone interested, here are my CA settings currently.
http://imgur.com/a/bZSKK

Smooth thumb throttle control. Low and high speed.
Torque and still capable of an easy 50kph. Nice acceleration though I've toned down ramping a fair bit to limit stress through drive. I don't need the hard accel.
 
I find it easier than a full or half twist.
No big problems for commuting and general all-a rounding where it's positioned...I would prefer a good full twist for a trails only bike though.
 
Back in biz!
Been down for a while and waiting out winter. Finally got new jack shaft and just finished overhauling the whole drivetrain.

New circlip-style jack shaft was much easier to work with. Overhauled the chain wheel freewheel (gonna be toast soon). Overhauled the rear hub and sprockets. New rear chain. Belt and pully freewheel both still good shape.

Ready for a test ride! Just in time for spr...freak snow storm!? Awww common!!
 
The belt side pulley was the hardest to get off due to the way the shaft had broken. It was wedged on good from use and seized by the elements. A large gear puller made pretty easy work of it though, just have to be super careful and slow.

After the pulley was off, I removed the chain-side bracket that secures the jack shaft...so first the chain guard piece and then the whole side plate below it. The JS housing just falls out and I used a mallet to remove the shaft and bearings from the housing.

To press in my new bearings, I used a big socket to apply force evenly around the bearing. Then just reinstall everything. I had to fiddle a bit to better my JS housing alignment (chain/belt line) but it was a pretty easy fix other than the seized stuff.
 
r3volved said:
The belt side pulley was the hardest to get off due to the way the shaft had broken. It was wedged on good from use and seized by the elements.

Didn't know yours broke... More detail on this point would be great.

Would you say that if you wanted to just change the pulley you would have to change the whole shaft keys or whatever too?

Or if you just wanted to change the shaft you would have to change the bearings aswell?

I was to be honest quite sad to see that if I wanted to change just one part the seizure and the inability to remove the bearings intact that the whole lot had to be done.... was this similar for you?

cheers...

ps show us some pics or more so some vids you slack ass.
 
lol I'm still not running yet. Hopefully get back at er this weekend and do some battery checks. Everything has been stripped down for the winter and just getting the spring jolt now.

I had the jackshaft break on the chain-side. It failed right at the end of hole for the screw to secure the sprocket (old style jackshaft).
So the whole sprocket with a JS piece inside it was separated from the rest.

I got one bearing replacement for that sprocket side just to avoid any metal shavings or anything that may have gotten in there when it failed. Nothing was seized to the point of replacement...a bit of wd-40 got all the screw stuff loose and some elbow grease and patience got the belt pulley off the shaft.

It is really an easy replacement as long as you have the right tools...as far as technical knowledge and understanding is concerned. There's just a lot of things to take apart and put back together (it's tedious) but it's all brackets and screws for the most part - not difficult.

Oh, my keys were reused as well...the only pieces I got were the JS axle (new style with circlips - 12mm) and one bearing.
 
r3volved said:
I had it working in sensorless, although rather jerky until up-to-speed and it ran real quiet (at speed) and the controller was cold to the touch after 18 min of commute - motor was slightly warm.

There are just soooo many parameters that I have zero clue about so I'll save it for next project or play around when I have more time. It is really a neat little package and surprisingly powerful

Hey mate, I now own one of these phase runners, its for my allaxle hub but thought since its on the bike to see how it goes with the mid drive. Because my front hub MUST has temperature sensing I have the CA for it. The mid drive has never needed it and I can't run two ca's its just too much computer stuff. I removed the ca and ran the mid drive straight through my 12 fet 40a em3ev and its again and impossible thing to ride jerky and pulsing like hell power.

So yeah interested in trying the phase runner on the mid drive to see if would naturally smoothe out torque...... However for the parametres on my hub motor it wont even allow me to get full power until up to speed which is weird. so it might do the same with the mid drive basically rendering it useless since I do still need full power from a stop.... I just want a way to ramp up power with out the CA.

Or I am going to waste time? lollll

Keep cool mate.
 
I never got the phaserunner to work on my LR...but that was their v1 when it first launched. I've heard that it's gotten a lot of tweaks.

I actually haven't even used my bike in a year...since I picked up a skateboard.
 
I would like to know how the battery going after all this time? Do you have any problem with it?
 
I ended up killing the first parallel string (6p) and had to replace with 6 fresh cells. I'm pretty sure it was just from running such high watts without a BMS...honestly though, I haven't ridden it since I started skateboarding last summer.

Will probably tear everything down and use for another project.
 
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