Specific Hall Effect Sensor Keeps Failing... Even After Replacing It.

[DotScott]

Hey guys,

So I have this Crystalyte HT-35 hub motor that had a hall effect sensor go bad on the green wire. I replaced all 3 hall sensors with brand new ones (thought, might as well while I'm in there). Put the motor back together and it worked...

SO. Then I put the entire bike back together. Tried to run the motor again and boop... Motor stops working. So I take the motor apart again and find out that AGAIN, the brand new sensor on the green wire is dead.

The issue: blue and yellow wire hall sensors go from 0-3.28v but the green is just stuck at 3.28v. never goes to 0v.

So... Any idea why the sensor would stay stuck at 3.28v and NOT go to 0v? I looked around the area for fragments of magnet but nothing. Pull the sensor away from the motor, still at 3.28v. i placed a magnet near it (both ends), stays at 3.28v. just never changes from 3.28v..

 

[DotScott]

Maybe it's also worth noting that I only get readings from these if all 3 wires (red black and say, blue) are plugged into the controller. If I detach the blue wire but leave the red and black wires plugged into the hall, i get no reading from the blue wire that's connected to the hall. Difficult to explain but I hope that makes sense. I thought it would still Display some value if it just had power going to it (and then placing a magnet near it)

 

[amberwolf]

halls in motors only work when signal is connected to controller, because:

--hall only grounds the output when active, it doens't output anything.

--controller has pullup resistor to make voltage go up when hall is off



the repeatedly dying hall is probably not dying, it probably has bad connection to motor. wire broken intermittently somewhere between motor and controller.

when it's nto working swap wires between it and a working hall. if problem moves you know which end of the wire is the problem, on the controller side. if ti doesn't move it's on the motor side



if the problem hall is actually being killed then there's a short between it's signal and something else, like a phase wire. it might also kill the ocntrolerr's input if it keeps up.

 

[DotScott]

halls in motors only work when signal is connected to controller, because:

--hall only grounds the output when active, it doens't output anything.

--controller has pullup resistor to make voltage go up when hall is off

...............

Good call and thanks for the tip. Next I'll test that hall sensor by itself and then replace the hall wires. But there is another weird thing happening: Each hall sensor only outputs 0-3.28v instead of 0-~5v. That's odd right? Think that can still be a wire issue? I guess it could be. Just odd that Blue line reports 0-3.28v, yellow reports 0-3.28v and green just stays at 3.28v. This is of course measuring the output voltage in the line (wires), not directly from the hall sensor pins. Maybe I'll check that while I'm at it (connecting my multimeter directly to the hall pins).

 

[amberwolf]

Each hall sensor only outputs 0-3.28v instead of 0-~5v. That's odd right? Think that can still be a wire issue? I guess it could be. Just odd that Blue line reports 0-3.28v, yellow reports 0-3.28v and green just stays at 3.28v.

the voltage is provided by the ocntroller so whatever it outputs is what the halls get, and what hte ocntrolelr gets back as signal.

if anything ever shorted a phase to 5v or even one of the pullups / hall signals, it coudl've damaged the 5v suply in the contrlller.

what does the 5v read at the hall pwoer and at the throttle power, etc?


btw if the green stays high it oculd be the hall is daead and not grouding the signal when on or that hte wire is broken to the hall and so what the halsl does is irrelelveant cuz it's nto connnected to the controller. measureing at the hall itself would let you know which.

 

[TommyCat]

Hopefully just a poor wiring connection. I've seen halls work at the lower voltages like your seeing. But SS41F hall sensor supply voltage specs are 4.5vdc to 24vdc. If you'd like to test with a higher voltage and not use, or have the controller connected. See this helpful thread...

https://electricbike.com/forum/foru...nsor-testing-without-using-a-motor-controller

Note: If testing a hall sensor with just a magnet, one pole latches the sensor. The other pole releases it. (0vdc to 5vdc)


Regards,
T.C.