Truck Modification for Enertion Nylon Pulley

[s28400]

Hey guys,
I am in the process of planning my build and I want to use enertion's nylon pulley for ABEC 11 Wheels. However, I noticed in the pictures and in their videos, the trucks have been trimmed down to reveal more of the axle so that the pulley's bearing can slide over it. What is the best way to go about cutting/trimming the hanger aluminum? I seem to remember seeing someone here doing it but I can't seem to find it.
Thanks a bunch,
Josh

 

[cmatson]

check out Longhairedboy's instagram and youtube- he has videos on how to do it.

he also does enertion repairs, so if you are going to learn it from anyone, he's the guy :wink:

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

There's an abec11 wheel pulley that fits inside the wheel, and while its intended for an extra bearing and ur supposed to cut down the hanger I read from the maker that he doesn't bother putting the bearing in or cutting the truck hanger down and it works fine and is held by the mount. It's on Imaterialize.com. If enertion's are a tight fit maybe u could get away with doing that as well. Cutting down the hanger seems a bad idea but if u can get on a lathe it'd be easy.

 

[s28400]

check out Longhairedboy's instagram and youtube- he has videos on how to do it.

he also does enertion repairs, so if you are going to learn it from anyone, he's the guy

Dude holy shi**! I looked at his instagram and he had a few pictures of a board I helped a senior design student with, which means he must be local. I did not know that he also did the deck for that project. Small world lol.

 

[s28400]

There's an abec11 wheel pulley that fits inside the wheel, and while its intended for an extra bearing and ur supposed to cut the hanger I read from the maker that he doesn't bother putting the bearing in or lathing the truck hanger down and it works fine. It's on Imaterialize.com. If enertion's are a tight fit maybe u could get away with doing that as well. Cutting down the hanger seems a bad idea but if u can get on a lathe it'd be easy.

Yeah I have full access to a lathe at my school so I might just do it on that. I'd rather modify the truck than have a pulley ripp out mid ride lol.

 

[alexaus]

Be aware that turning down the hanger makes it a lot easier for the axle to bend from normal use (hitting bumps). I've had this problem consistently with my Evolve board. Consider a pulley which screws directly to the wheel and doesn't have its own bearing. That way you don't have to turn down the truck and the axle will not bend.

The axle being bent leads to pretty bad coning of the wheel and can sometimes mess up belt tracking

 

[whitepony]

Be aware that turning down the hanger makes it a lot easier for the axle to bend from normal use (hitting bumps). I've had this problem consistently with my Evolve board. Consider a pulley which screws directly to the wheel and doesn't have its own bearing. That way you don't have to turn down the truck and the axle will not bend.

The axle being bent leads to pretty bad coning of the wheel and can sometimes mess up belt tracking

1 million times this!! ^

I had the street setup on my evolve, after 3 bent axles I gave up. the enertion pulley is a 100% carbon copy of the evolve pulley with a 3rd bearing and everything. shame that jason stopped selling the old drive wheels. I would never ever touch a drive wheel like that ever again after my evolve fail story!

I really dont like how jason forces his trucks on people with his 2016 nylon drive wheels. i would never buy those trucks alone for that color. also I bet jason has not long term tested this 2016 change, because evolve has shown that an extended axle without heavy reinforcements simply does not work. their late 2015 axles were different - they had a reinforced steel part on the truck axle close to the drive wheel with a special bearing that had a larger inner diameter to account for that thicker axle.

 

[s28400]

Be aware that turning down the hanger makes it a lot easier for the axle to bend from normal use (hitting bumps). I've had this problem consistently with my Evolve board. Consider a pulley which screws directly to the wheel and doesn't have its own bearing. That way you don't have to turn down the truck and the axle will not bend.

The axle being bent leads to pretty bad coning of the wheel and can sometimes mess up belt tracking

Hmm, that's a good point. Well I suppose I could just JB wield the thing into the wheel. I wonder how long the nylon pulleys hold up though.

 

[s28400]

Be aware that turning down the hanger makes it a lot easier for the axle to bend from normal use (hitting bumps). I've had this problem consistently with my Evolve board. Consider a pulley which screws directly to the wheel and doesn't have its own bearing. That way you don't have to turn down the truck and the axle will not bend.

The axle being bent leads to pretty bad coning of the wheel and can sometimes mess up belt tracking

1 million times this!! ^

I had the street setup on my evolve, after 3 bent axles I gave up. the enertion pulley is a 100% carbon copy of the evolve pulley with a 3rd bearing and everything. I guess its a way for jason to force his trucks on people - noticed you cant even buy stuff separately anymore on enertion. very annoying! I would never ever touch a wheel pulley like that ever again after my evolve fail story!

Well I am glad I asked about this. That would have sucked to find out after bending all my axles. What kind of pulley setup would you recommend? I guess I could go the boosted rout and drill through a wheel.

 

[alexaus]

Be aware that turning down the hanger makes it a lot easier for the axle to bend from normal use (hitting bumps). I've had this problem consistently with my Evolve board. Consider a pulley which screws directly to the wheel and doesn't have its own bearing. That way you don't have to turn down the truck and the axle will not bend.

The axle being bent leads to pretty bad coning of the wheel and can sometimes mess up belt tracking

1 million times this!! ^

I had the street setup on my evolve, after 3 bent axles I gave up. the enertion pulley is a 100% carbon copy of the evolve pulley with a 3rd bearing and everything. I guess its a way for jason to force his trucks on people - noticed you cant even buy stuff separately anymore on enertion. very annoying! I would never ever touch a wheel pulley like that ever again after my evolve fail story!

Well I am glad I asked about this. That would have sucked to find out after bending all my axles. What kind of pulley setup would you recommend? I guess I could go the boosted rout and drill through a wheel.

Yeah, I think Boosted figured out that extended axles are a bad idea. I recently designed a 33T HTD 5M-15 pulley that can be 3D printed in Nylon and screwed onto a Kegel wheel with 5x M6x65 SHCS. I only got to test my design for about 10 km before my board stopped syncing with the remote, but it seemed to stay nice and tight into the wheel during that time. I did have the belt ride up on the edges once when I pushed the board backwards with my foot, so I added some raised flanges to the 3D model but I have not been able to test it yet.
Here is the thing, if you have a 3D printer and Kegel wheels, pick up some Taulman3D 910 Nylon filament and some screws and try it out!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1523057

 

[s28400]

Yeah, I think Boosted figured out that extended axles are a bad idea. I recently designed a 33T HTD 5M-15 pulley that can be 3D printed in Nylon and screwed onto a Kegel wheel with 5x M6x65 SHCS. I only got to test my design for about 10 km before my board stopped syncing with the remote, but it seemed to stay nice and tight into the wheel during that time. I did have the belt ride up on the edges once when I pushed the board backwards with my foot, so I added some raised flanges to the 3D model but I have not been able to test it yet.
Here is the thing, if you have a 3D printer and Kegel wheels, pick up some Taulman3D 910 Nylon filament and some screws and try it out!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1523057

Hmm, I wonder how well abs would hold up. I have access to a commercial grade printer that does ABS. I think I'll try it and get back to you guys. I could always CNC it if the ABS doesn't work aswell.

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

Print one and make a hard silicone mold and pour it in the hardest thing u can find. Then u can pop them out cheap.

 

[s28400]

Yeah, I think Boosted figured out that extended axles are a bad idea. I recently designed a 33T HTD 5M-15 pulley that can be 3D printed in Nylon and screwed onto a Kegel wheel with 5x M6x65 SHCS. I only got to test my design for about 10 km before my board stopped syncing with the remote, but it seemed to stay nice and tight into the wheel during that time. I did have the belt ride up on the edges once when I pushed the board backwards with my foot, so I added some raised flanges to the 3D model but I have not been able to test it yet.
Here is the thing, if you have a 3D printer and Kegel wheels, pick up some Taulman3D 910 Nylon filament and some screws and try it out!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1523057

I can't seem to import the stl files into solidworks as it is importing as inches and is huge. Is there anyway you could send me the part files or export the stl in inches? Thanks

 

[sl33py]

I'm running a Nylon wheel pulley on my GF's board (9mm wide). It's holding up OK. It does click/skip more than an aluminum. For her lighter weight and top speed of around 8mph (not kidding - she likes to go SLOW) - it works. For me - i would stick with aluminum personally.

Less expensive - definitely, but i've got to imagine they wear out pretty fast if you are heavier or ride hard. Even with the wider contact area (12mm) which will help with the skipping.

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

If only I didn't have hub motors id be into casting them out of aliminum in a simple silicone mold and melting the aluminum in the microwave! I've been dying for a good reason to melt metal in the micro

https://www.etsy.com/forums_thread.php?thread_id=6522423

 

[alexaus]

Hmm, I wonder how well abs would hold up. I have access to a commercial grade printer that does ABS. I think I'll try it and get back to you guys. I could always CNC it if the ABS doesn't work aswell.

ABS would probably work for a bit. With my design, the part doesn't have to be all that strong because the screws support the load quite well. However ABS is pretty bad for friction wear life, it wears off as a powder and pretty easily from what I've seen. Give it a go, it's not like it's hard to print more if they wear out quickly!

The 910 nylon has been great. I've printed a lot of pulleys with a previous design, which had to be retired for reasons other than tooth wear. On all of them, some of which had done a few hundred km, there was no significant tooth wear at all. Just like, a smoothing of the ridges from each layer. From what I understand, nylon rubbing on nylon has quite a long wear life. In fact, I'm planning to test that by using spur gears to do my reduction instead of belts (so that all wearing components can be printed; I hate buying belts). But that will be on my next board which I design so it might be a while before I can try that.

 

[alexaus]

Yeah, I think Boosted figured out that extended axles are a bad idea. I recently designed a 33T HTD 5M-15 pulley that can be 3D printed in Nylon and screwed onto a Kegel wheel with 5x M6x65 SHCS. I only got to test my design for about 10 km before my board stopped syncing with the remote, but it seemed to stay nice and tight into the wheel during that time. I did have the belt ride up on the edges once when I pushed the board backwards with my foot, so I added some raised flanges to the 3D model but I have not been able to test it yet.
Here is the thing, if you have a 3D printer and Kegel wheels, pick up some Taulman3D 910 Nylon filament and some screws and try it out!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1523057

I can't seem to import the stl files into solidworks as it is importing as inches and is huge. Is there anyway you could send me the part files or export the stl in inches? Thanks

Yeah sure, I'll put the part files on the Thingiverse thing. Right now it's an inventor part .ipt, but I think you should be able to import that ok. If not let me know and I could export as STEP or something like that.

 

[alexaus]

I'm running a Nylon wheel pulley on my GF's board (9mm wide). It's holding up OK. It does click/skip more than an aluminum. For her lighter weight and top speed of around 8mph (not kidding - she likes to go SLOW) - it works. For me - i would stick with aluminum personally.

Less expensive - definitely, but i've got to imagine they wear out pretty fast if you are heavier or ride hard. Even with the wider contact area (12mm) which will help with the skipping.

Hmm, I consider any skipping of the belt to be a Very Bad Thing so I make sure mine are tight enough to never skip. When I first had my board and was more slack with keeping the belt tensioned (lol), the belt skipping always precipitated a belt failure, since the shock loads from skipping are enough to break fiber strands. As long as the thing is stiff, the belt shouldn't be able to skip when sufficiently tensioned. As far as wear, see above post. I think nylon wears very well.

With the cost of materials to print one of these things in the $2-3 range (a pound of filament is about 40-50 bucks), I think they could be just as cost effective as aluminium or possibly even better. Not to mention that many more people have the capability to print one of these compared to the number of people who could CNC mill one.

 

[sl33py]

Hmm, I consider any skipping of the belt to be a Very Bad Thing so I make sure mine are tight enough to never skip. When I first had my board and was more slack with keeping the belt tensioned (lol), the belt skipping always precipitated a belt failure, since the shock loads from skipping are enough to break fiber strands. As long as the thing is stiff, the belt shouldn't be able to skip when sufficiently tensioned. As far as wear, see above post. I think nylon wears very well.

With the cost of materials to print one of these things in the $2-3 range (a pound of filament is about 40-50 bucks), I think they could be just as cost effective as aluminium or possibly even better. Not to mention that many more people have the capability to print one of these compared to the number of people who could CNC mill one.

I agree mostly. Skipping is bad, and will chew up the belts teeth. Making it skip more - vicious cycle till it's broken or useless/stripped. I have had several boards w/ regular aluminum/steel pulleys and know it was tensioned correctly - but it's been a minute and i'll re-tighten it before the next ride. She doesn't notice it since she really doesn't go much faster than walking pace (she's getting there... and it's just cool she rides with me occasionally).

I agree that 3d printed parts are really the future and being able to replace or regear for just a few bucks in materials will be cool. BUT most of the PLA and other materials you can get (i bought mine on shapeways iirc) if you don't have your own 3d printer - are garbage and won't hold up for long. And overpriced. I think mine in the sturdiest Nylon i could find was about $25-30. I got it mostly to test, since i do think this will be the way to go eventually. But until i get my own 3d printer and find the perfect material to use - I personally will stick to aluminum or steel pulleys.

my .02

 

[alexaus]

I agree mostly. Skipping is bad, and will chew up the belts teeth. Making it skip more - vicious cycle till it's broken or useless/stripped. I have had several boards w/ regular aluminum/steel pulleys and know it was tensioned correctly - but it's been a minute and i'll re-tighten it before the next ride. She doesn't notice it since she really doesn't go much faster than walking pace (she's getting there... and it's just cool she rides with me occasionally).

I agree that 3d printed parts are really the future and being able to replace or regear for just a few bucks in materials will be cool. BUT most of the PLA and other materials you can get (i bought mine on shapeways iirc) if you don't have your own 3d printer - are garbage and won't hold up for long. And overpriced. I think mine in the sturdiest Nylon i could find was about $25-30. I got it mostly to test, since i do think this will be the way to go eventually. But until i get my own 3d printer and find the perfect material to use - I personally will stick to aluminum or steel pulleys.

my .02

Interesting. Was the belt HTD? My Gates HTD belts never lost any teeth. But skipping clearly damaged the tensile cords with every skip. On my board the belt never skipped during acceleration, only braking for some reason. I think the evolve boards allow more braking current than drive current or something. Might have been to do with how the stock pulley was wearing down. It wore down a lot, was made from polyacetal I think.

Agree about getting 3D prints to order, for this kinda thing you kinda need your own printer so you can do your own quality control. And yeah, material is key. As I said, nylon seems best.