unlocking speed limit on my ebike

matanleilien

10 µW
Joined
Mar 14, 2022
Messages
5
hello! just bought ,my first E-bike. due to regulations in my country the bike is limited to 25Km/h and i wish to unlock this limitation.

i've read in other similar controllers that you have to disconnect some white wire from the controller but i cant find it on mine, nor can i find any information about the controller. manual or schematics, please help!

controller maker: sozhou kunteng
model: kt36/48zwsrd-jqy04
 

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What kind of display is connected to your controller? KT controllers are configurable by their LCD displays for many values including top speed.
 
my display is KT-LCD3
i have configured the top speed to be the maximum value possible for this controller which is 72Km/h
 
matanleilien said:
my display is KT-LCD3
i have configured the top speed to be the maximum value possible for this controller which is 72Km/h

You're telling us you have the top speed set for 72Km/h and the bike will only go 25?
 
Indeed.
The throttle is also limited to 6km/h. Usually in the tutorials on how to hack this kind of bikes it starts with unrestricting the throttle. I
I don't know if this helps though. I dont really mind staying with pedal assist.

Also i have C7 configuration option set to 1 (cruise enable) but pressing the "up" arrow only turnes the backlight on and does not set the pedal assist to cruise control (this is a different matter)
 
If it was sold as a whole bike, the controller may have firmware on it that internally limits the speed to make it legal for the company to sell in your locality; tha'ts not uncommon. If this is the case, you may have to replace the entire controller to remove this restriction. (it may also be programmable with the OpenSource Firmware by Casainho, Stancecoke, et. al; there are at least a couple of threads for that in the Motors/Controllers section). Note that it is possible to "brick" a controller during a firmware update.

If there are any wires soldered to the PCB that simply loop up from one pad and then go back to another, without connecting to anything else, they could be control / limiting wires, and cutting one of them might remove the limiter (but it could just make the controller nonfunctional until it is reconnected).

If you have a wheelsize setting in the display, you could change it to the largest (or maybe it's smallest; cant' remember ATM) wheelsize it will take. This will make the speed sensor think the wheel is spinning slower than it really is, so it could allow operation at a higher actual speed. (assuming it doesn't also monitor motor speed and limit using that separately). This will also make your speed display incorrect, however.

If there is no wheelsize setting in the display, and it uses a separate wheel speed sensor (rather than a sensor from the motor itself) you could add electronics between the speed sensor and the controller to reduce the number of pulses (divide by 2, etc) received by the controller from it, which will make it think it's going slower, same as cahnging the wheel size.

If you don't need any speed reading at all, you could remove the magnet for the speed sensor completely, and then it would think you were still stopped all the time, and not limit speed. However, some systems timeout in a minute or two with no speed signal, and shut off. If that happens on yours, you'd need to turn it back on every time this happens.

It's also possible your system simply can't go any faster. If you turn the bike upside down with the motor wheel offground, how fast does it "go" at full speed? If it's speed limited, it will be exactly the same as if you were riding. If it is not, it will go a little bit faster than when you're riding. In the latter case, you'd need either more voltage (so probably a different controller and battery), more current (also probalby a different controller and battery), a different motor that is wound for a higher speed at the voltage you already have, or some combination of all three.
 
matanleilien said:
Also i have C7 configuration option set to 1 (cruise enable) but pressing the "up" arrow only turnes the backlight on and does not set the pedal assist to cruise control (this is a different matter)

It's the down arrow that engages the cruise function, not the up arrow.
 
Depending on how determined you are, KT parts are not that expensive. I'm not sure where that speed lock lives though. It could be the controller or the display. I KNOW that if I replace the just the controller, all previous parameter settings will be retained, telling me THEY were stored in the display. That's a fact I'm sure of.

That's NOT a guarantee the speed lock is contained there though.

Agree on the down button for the cruise. If it won't set after holding the button in for a few seconds, try going a little faster. It will not work at lower speeds.
 
matanleilien said:
hello! just bought ,my first E-bike. due to regulations in my country the bike is limited to 25Km/h and i wish to unlock this limitation.

What speed to you get with the wheel off the ground?
 
AHicks said:
Depending on how determined you are, KT parts are not that expensive. I'm not sure where that speed lock lives though. It could be the controller or the display. I KNOW that if I replace the just the controller, all previous parameter settings will be retained, telling me THEY were stored in the display. That's a fact I'm sure of.

This should go in a KT sticky. :bigthumb:
 
Always a problem popping up with KT's, this is why its best to have a spare, generic controller without any additional whackery.
 
calab said:
Always a problem popping up with KT's, this is why its best to have a spare, generic controller without any additional whackery.
I don't see many issues with KTs. They're good and reliable, and the cadence PAS works better than most.
 
I should clarify, I was just trying to say that there always seems to be people coming into the es forum with a kt controller issue.
I do not blame kt, as its an installer issue or a reseller not having helpful instructions with step by step instruction.
I am just saying that it would clear up a lot of those posts, if people weren't so fixated on a cheap pedal assist or wanting of a screen to look cool. I've never had a problem with the KT I had. The usual is someone coming in with an error code, like 28 or something.




E-HP said:
calab said:
Always a problem popping up with KT's, this is why its best to have a spare, generic controller without any additional whackery.
I don't see many issues with KTs. They're good and reliable, and the cadence PAS works better than most.
 
You didn't mention what is your battery voltage. Maybe with just 9 amps of current isn't enough power to move your bike faster?
Remember, demand for power increases with the third power of speed, which means increase speed from 25 to 35 km/h requires
almost tripling the power. Pure physics...
 
Maciek said:
Remember, demand for power increases with the third power of speed, which means increase speed from 25 to 35 km/h requires
almost tripling the power. Pure physics...

I'm having trouble understanding what this statement means. Can you provide an example with numbers/data that shows the math? Maybe for your 25-35km/h case.
 
Maciek said:
You didn't mention what is your battery voltage. Maybe with just 9 amps of current isn't enough power to move your bike faster?
Remember, demand for power increases with the third power of speed, which means increase speed from 25 to 35 km/h requires
almost tripling the power. Pure physics...

I think he's wondering if the available power is all used up/maxed at the speed our OP is wanting to increase.
-or-
Is there enough power to go any faster than it does now?
-or-
Is this current max speed limited by the electronics, or by the capabilities of the motor/controller/battery comb?
 
AHicks said:
Is this current max speed limited by the electronics, or by the capabilities of the motor/controller/battery comb?

Ya, that's why I asked about the speed with the wheel off the ground. I don't think it matters, since it appears the OP isn't checking in anyway.
 
I concur spock
You have an astute eye
...And thats the way the cookie crumbles
They come in, then leave and dont look back
Retention is the key

E-HP said:
I don't think it matters, since it appears the OP isn't checking in anyway.

As for the limit, either the controller is programmed and you cant do much about that or you swap it out with a generic controller.
 
calab said:
I concur spock
You have an astute eye
...And thats the way the cookie crumbles
They come in, then leave and dont look back
Retention is the key

E-HP said:
I don't think it matters, since it appears the OP isn't checking in anyway.

As for the limit, either the controller is programmed and you cant do much about that or you swap it out with a generic controller.

Assuming for the moment that the speed is locked, you're pretty sure this is done somewhere within the controller, and NOT within the display? Doesn't make a lot of difference. Just curious as I've never run across a speed locked KT setup myself. -Al
 
Maciek said:
You didn't mention what is your battery voltage. Maybe with just 9 amps of current isn't enough power to move your bike faster?
Remember, demand for power increases with the third power of speed, which means increase speed from 25 to 35 km/h requires
almost tripling the power. Pure physics...
This is probably it. 9A is just not enough to push the bike faster. Try measuring the speed with the wheel off the ground (use a bike speedometer and magnet on the wheel).

It is probably possible to get quite a bit more current out of that controller by changing the shunt.
 
Sorry man I wasnt of complete mind last night. Your probably most likely right, again.
This is why I dislike the KT-display unit display kits, it adds another layer of complexity to a new person or anyone for that matter.
I still stand strong on having a generic controller with no display that you can use sensorless.
It would be nice to have accurate info on all related matters right from the get go, if it needs to be edited later would be nice, links to where the person bought their ebike from or their kit or each item if bought separately. Take for example any hub motor, the Leaf 1500w thread, often times I go looking for the dimensions to put into a spoke calculator and its not on the first page so I have to go hunting and it takes a bit of effort, not a small little feat on my part, might be a breeze for others.

AHicks said:
calab said:
I concur spock
You have an astute eye
...And thats the way the cookie crumbles
They come in, then leave and dont look back
Retention is the key

E-HP said:
I don't think it matters, since it appears the OP isn't checking in anyway.

As for the limit, either the controller is programmed and you cant do much about that or you swap it out with a generic controller.

Assuming for the moment that the speed is locked, you're pretty sure this is done somewhere within the controller, and NOT within the display? Doesn't make a lot of difference. Just curious as I've never run across a speed locked KT setup myself. -Al
 
hi guys!
sorry for not touching base, I currently cant perform the test to check max speed with wheel off ground since while playing with the controller settings something happened to the speedometer and its stuck at 0kmh (odometer also isn't running obviously). I'm hoping that resetting some of the settings I played around with will solve it and that it's not sensor damage from a bit of offroading i did last week... i'll keep you posted
 
thanks guys for everything,
unfortunatelly, i got my bike stolen two days ago. so i guess we will never know:/
here in israel e-bikes are the most stolen items.
 
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