Voilamart 1500W Internal Controller and Amps

[Jamsterlloyd34]

ok here are pictures
caps not blown nothing

I've baught 3 of these systems with varying problems. I have a UK made 48v battery which reads 88v fully charged. Set to 48v it works. The problem is it only randomly works. Otherwise I get a 06 error and a loud pulsing buzzing noise evert second from the motor. It moves forward and back with each pulse just slightly. Has anyone come across this problem before and know what it is and how to fix it? The ebay seller has vanished and this is the first thread I've seen in 9 months about this motor. Great to see inside it! Couldnt see a buzzer.
Been into the ebay kits for a few years and ended up with alot of failed burnt out kit costing probably about what a shop baught ebike one would be. Done about 6000miles so far. This problem has forced me to get a car which is such a waste of money and boring.

 

[markz]

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You have to go through the trouble shooting process methodically. Check to see if the wires are in tip top shape on motor axle exit. If direct drive, spin the wheel and see if there is a "clicking" type drag, means phase wires are touching or winding wire. Disconnect motor from controller.

Inspect all wiring.

Make sure throttle is in working condition.

Theres more, but i'm done here.

If all else fails, get rid of display kit and its controller. Buy a sensorless controller from greentime.

 

[Balmorhea]

I have a UK made 48v battery which reads 88v fully charged.

That can’t be right.

 

[amberwolf]

I have a UK made 48v battery which reads 88v fully charged.

the first problem to fix is this.

before you do anything else, change the battery in your voltmeter; a low one reads higher voltage than it should.

if that doesnt' change the reading, then you will want to dispose of this dangerously overcharged battery, and it's defective charger, as safely as possible.

then purchase a new 48v battery that hasn't been overcharged, and has a working correct charger, and hopefully a bms to prevent such overcharge.

or open up this battery, and take a lot of good clear pics clearly showing all wiring and interconnects and cells, in a way that allows us to see what they are and how it's connected internally, so we can help you figure out what it is, if it's not a dangerously overcharged 48v pack.



if it changes the reading, then let us know what it is now, and we'll proceed from there.

 

[Darren2018]

:thumb:

 

[Darren2018]

I wonder if it is possible to swap out the capacitors and mosfets for ones rated at a higher voltage? Would this then be able to run on a 72V battery?

 

[markz]

I wonder if it is possible to swap out the capacitors and mosfets for ones rated at a higher voltage? Would this then be able to run on a 72V battery?

Its entirely possible to swap out caps and fets, and have a higher voltage controller.

Be cheaper and faster just to buy a cheap controller though, unless the controller is matched to some display your keen on having. You'd have to figure in the cost of new caps and fets, then how much experience you have in soldering would dictate the amount of time you'd work to replace. Fets are soldered in with a huge mass of solder, so copper braid to soak that up, or a solder sucker. There'd be a lot of heat applied to pcb board, hopefully not wrecking any other components nearby. But yeah, no, its been done successfully. Brand name, quality fets and caps are not cheap. Going generic caps and fets would be economical, but I'm not sure what the cost on parts would be. 12 fet controller, high and low I do believe, so 24 fets if I am not mistaken, which I could be, who knows, go and count your fets.

 

[amberwolf]

I wonder if it is possible to swap out the capacitors and mosfets for ones rated at a higher voltage? Would this then be able to run on a 72V battery?

you also have to make sure hte low voltage power supply, which converts the battery voltage to 12v and 5v for the brains of the controller and stuff like throttles, pas sensors, motor halls, etc., is also capable of running at that voltage. there's a few ways they may make them, and some are relatively easy to "upgrade" parts in to run at higher battery voltages, and some are not.

 

[Jamsterlloyd34]

I have a UK made 48v battery which reads 88v fully charged.

the first problem to fix is this.

before you do anything else, change the battery in your voltmeter; a low one reads higher voltage than it should.

if that doesnt' change the reading, then you will want to dispose of this dangerously overcharged battery, and it's defective charger, as safely as possible.

then purchase a new 48v battery that hasn't been overcharged, and has a working correct charger, and hopefully a bms to prevent such overcharge.

or open up this battery, and take a lot of good clear pics clearly showing all wiring and interconnects and cells, in a way that allows us to see what they are and how it's connected internally, so we can help you figure out what it is, if it's not a dangerously overcharged 48v pack.



if it changes the reading, then let us know what it is now, and we'll proceed from there.

I changed the battery on the multimeter. Its now reading 53v. Thanks for that advice! Had visions of my shed burning down.

 

[Jamsterlloyd34]

-

You have to go through the trouble shooting process methodically. Check to see if the wires are in tip top shape on motor axle exit. If direct drive, spin the wheel and see if there is a "clicking" type drag, means phase wires are touching or winding wire. Disconnect motor from controller.

Inspect all wiring.

Make sure throttle is in working condition.

Theres more, but i'm done here.

If all else fails, get rid of display kit and its controller. Buy a sensorless controller from greentime.

It's a band new bit of kit and the wiring harness is all good and the controller is built into the hub. It's a fault I've never come access before. No adualable beep sound in the trouble shooting manual. The error code is 07 which is motor. The last same system displayed 666 all over the display. I told the chineese seller it was devils work. Sent a pic and had no response. No fused phase wires. Have had that happen before from over loading the bike up a his. Insulation just melted together. Was a hard ride home after that! The throttle works just at random times. Incredibly temperamental. Means very dangerous to operate.

 

[Jamsterlloyd34]

I have 3 of these systems. The first lasted a while and then developed error 10. Baught a replacement kit and it lasted 5min and showed 666 on the display and various errors. Then saw a massive spark behind the LCD that scared me. Violtamart agreed to sell another to me for reduced price. No refund or solution. The 3rd on lasted 5 mins and showed error 7 with a buzzing noise. Went back to the 2nd motor with 3rds lcd etc without using PAS. It worked but squeezed at low speeds. I burnt it out towing lazy biker up hill. The controller is still good in it so swapping in with an errorsom controller. Interesting to open up 3 motors and see the slight changes they made as they developed it. Love the smell of the burnt one. Coils charred but good controller. Others perfect coils and bugged out controller. Luck of the draw with these things. Fun taking them apart and seeing how they are manufactured. Also fun when they snap together during assembly. The poor oil seals have a prolapse tho. I really like how thwy turned the rectangular controller into a round one. Loads of heat sink and survives the coils cooking around it. Good transatent gunk works well. If the controllers were tested better would be a good product.

 

[Jamsterlloyd34]

I have 3 of these systems. The first lasted a while and then developed error 10. Baught a replacement kit and it lasted 5min and showed 666 on the display and various errors. Then saw a massive spark behind the LCD that scared me. Violtamart agreed to sell another to me for reduced price. No refund or solution. The 3rd on lasted 5 mins and showed error 7 with a buzzing noise. Went back to the 2nd motor with 3rds lcd etc without using PAS. It worked but squeezed at low speeds. I burnt it out towing lazy biker up hill. The controller is still good in it so swapping in with an errorsom controller. Interesting to open up 3 motors and see the slight changes they made as they developed it. Love the smell of the burnt one. Coils charred but good controller. Others perfect coils and bugged out controller. Luck of the draw with these things. Fun taking them apart and seeing how they are manufactured. Also fun when they snap together during assembly. The poor oil seals have a prolapse tho. I really like how thwy turned the rectangular controller into a round one. Loads of heat sink and survives the coils cooking around it. Good transatent gunk works well. If the controllers were tested better would be a good product.

 

[dastardlyman]

Hi folks
the external controller has been running fine for weeks now.
love the 1500 watt bike with the external controller glad i fixed it
controller and hub do not get hot at all

some observations:
1. there is a gent selling his 1500w hub hub on ebay right now
he ALSO had an internal controller which blew.
i messaged him and he has a mate with the same problem!

2. there are no 1500watt internal controller systems for sale on ebay uk
my guess is many failed so they have stopped selling them. just a guess. cough

3. stock of ebike kits on ebay uk is disappearing - no deliveries from china

best wishes to everyone.
ps if haircut100 looks a bit odd - its meant to have huge seatpost and crazy handlebars:
A: its the way i like it.
B: you want weight of 208 batteries AS LOW AS POSSIBLE.

 

[markz]

Internal controllers for hub motors can easily be converted to normal external controllers, if they are not a proprietary system.
Might be worth it to buy one at a rock bottom price, but open the cover plate first to see if the windings arent burnt.
Then you can go and buy a EVFitting/Greentime 48V40A controller for $40 and have a spare motor ready to go.

edit: maybe I spoke too soon. There might not be a cavity for the wires to go through the axle of the hub motor.

A simple search on ES will reveal a lot.

 

[McKenzie]

Hello there!

First post here bud and your thread is super handy for me.i have purchased an ebike with one of these kits fitted from m Facebook marketplace last week.

It's the same as yours with integrated controller. The seller says he's never had an issue but of course on my first ride out I was stranded.

I get error 10 when the motor I guess has warmed up, and I've had error 7 and error 8.

I've stripped the hub yesterday hoping to find some broken hall wires but nothing at all. Really towed to get the magnets to separate even the the controller barrel came away from the inner section.

Which external controller did you use? Mines running 52v and a sw900 display. I joined the blue and red wires in the sw900 in order to fix the error 10 code but seemed to have no affect. I'm sure our issues are connectivity problems.

I've paid alot for this bike and now I can't use it and also the rear axel is bent too.

Can you help at all with the external controller? And what is your location? I'm in South Yorkshire.

Thanks.

Hi folks
the external controller has been running fine for weeks now.
love the 1500 watt bike with the external controller glad i fixed it
controller and hub do not get hot at all

some observations:
1. there is a gent selling his 1500w hub hub on ebay right now
he ALSO had an internal controller which blew.
i messaged him and he has a mate with the same problem!

2. there are no 1500watt internal controller systems for sale on ebay uk
my guess is many failed so they have stopped selling them. just a guess. cough

3. stock of ebike kits on ebay uk is disappearing - no deliveries from china

best wishes to everyone.
ps if haircut100 looks a bit odd - its meant to have huge seatpost and crazy handlebars:
A: its the way i like it.
B: you want weight of 208 batteries AS LOW AS POSSIBLE.

 

[furcifer]

Whoops, forgot about this thread. I couldn't find any information on this motor at the time and decided to buy a BBSHD. Which got stolen. I just got this motor running again. I haven't had a single issue, although it seems a bit slower than I remembered. I'm going to try and get an external controller just in case. I think it would also allow me to run bigger power wires.

There doesn't seem to be much on the internet about them. I agree, from the looks of it it's just poorly engineered to deliver 1500W with an internal controller.