Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

On precharge - the controller program manual shows a direct connection to the battery from the controller, but other docs QS has sent me shows a Precharge in the (hard to read) diagram. I’ll add a fuse either way, but do I need a precharge on the EM-150?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hello to everyone and thanks in advance for all the inputs and shares. I've read as much as I've been able to and found some interesting information, but I need some help hoping I can also contribute in the future.
I'm an ex racer and builder from Spain. I'm building a Kx80e 1996 with a qs138 v3 and a votol em150sp2 with a claimed 45ah battery from gtk. The goal is to have a small bike to do some trial excursions and wheelies. Top speed not needed at all. Quick response and very low speed torque is.
After a few weeks installing everything, making the wire harness for something it should be plug and play and and trying to understand the meaning of the very short explanations of the manual, I'm a bit stuck on some issues. My present settings pages are below.
I first loaded the configuration that Siaecosys sent me for my kit. Then I had bms cutting problems when the battery gets about 50% of its capacity. From that moment I was aware of having a cheap battery (although I paid extra for a 150 amps bms update) which I have to deal with trying to make the most of it.
What I've tried so far is:
Setting the 3 speeds as shown with the idea of manually switching them as the capacity drops so I can keep riding somehow.
Then I turned the soft start of as I was realizing the throttle response was poor. It improved but not enough.
Then I read here about the issue and how sport mode could override other settings to give more reponse. However, even having the sport mode wire correctly routed to be grounded and activated on demand, It never wanted to turn on.
I still had the start torque settings to play with (those shown are the originally given) and I read here also that the flux weakening comp had something to do with it.
I tried non of them. Instead, I looked at the ports settings. The problem is that I don't have a clue what the letters mean and in the manual it's not explained. But I dared to untick the SW box where sport mode was ported at. What happened was that the sport mode came on. The desired Instant start torque appeart. Happy wheelies. But not for long. I can't use the 3 speeds now. It doesn't let me do it. I ticked the sport mode port SW box back on but nothing reverts. I'm stuck in sport mode. Not a bad place to be at, but losing the 3 speeds doesn't let me make the most of the battery.
Everytime the bms cuts I have to disconnect the monster Anderson and plug it back on.
Finally, I decided to play with soft undervoltage, trying to find a way of softening things when the battery is not capable of wheeling anymore, so I can still ride back home. I set 72 soft undervoltage and it went better about the bms cuts, but not enough. When I accelerate (still on sport mode) I get the wheelie with no problems but as the bike passes about 15mph, even rolling of a bit, the bms cuts (it's supposed to do it when it drops below 50v as described in the battery manufacturer specs).
The last thing to try which came to mind was flux wreaking. What about flux weakling demanding to many amps after the wheelie? I don't need any speed, so I set the sport mode wreaking boxes so zero. The motor didn't spin.
Although I managed to get good settings in the 3 speeds config boxes, I never fully understood their logic, nor is explained in the manual.
Sorry for the long text but I thought I rather explain everything at once given the messy thread.
Thanks again in advance for any inputs.
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Philosoraptor said:
On precharge - the controller program manual shows a direct connection to the battery from the controller, but other docs QS has sent me shows a Precharge in the (hard to read) diagram. I’ll add a fuse either way, but do I need a precharge on the EM-150?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you plan to disconnect the battery now and then a precharge is a good idea.
If you just plug it in and keep it connected it is not really necessary.
 
maeso34 said:
Hello to everyone and thanks in advance for all the inputs and shares. I've read as much as I've been able to and found some interesting information, but I need some help hoping I can also contribute in the future.
I'm an ex racer and builder from Spain. I'm building a Kx80e 1996 with a qs138 v3 and a votol em150sp2 with a claimed 45ah battery from gtk. The goal is to have a small bike to do some trial excursions and wheelies. Top speed not needed at all. Quick response and very low speed torque is.
After a few weeks installing everything, making the wire harness for something it should be plug and play and and trying to understand the meaning of the very short explanations of the manual, I'm a bit stuck on some issues. My present settings pages are below.
I first loaded the configuration that Siaecosys sent me for my kit. Then I had bms cutting problems when the battery gets about 50% of its capacity. From that moment I was aware of having a cheap battery (although I paid extra for a 150 amps bms update) which I have to deal with trying to make the most of it.
What I've tried so far is:
Setting the 3 speeds as shown with the idea of manually switching them as the capacity drops so I can keep riding somehow.
Then I turned the soft start of as I was realizing the throttle response was poor. It improved but not enough.
Then I read here about the issue and how sport mode could override other settings to give more reponse. However, even having the sport mode wire correctly routed to be grounded and activated on demand, It never wanted to turn on.
I still had the start torque settings to play with (those shown are the originally given) and I read here also that the flux weakening comp had something to do with it.
I tried non of them. Instead, I looked at the ports settings. The problem is that I don't have a clue what the letters mean and in the manual it's not explained. But I dared to untick the SW box where sport mode was ported at. What happened was that the sport mode came on. The desired Instant start torque appeart. Happy wheelies. But not for long. I can't use the 3 speeds now. It doesn't let me do it. I ticked the sport mode port SW box back on but nothing reverts. I'm stuck in sport mode. Not a bad place to be at, but losing the 3 speeds doesn't let me make the most of the battery.
Everytime the bms cuts I have to disconnect the monster Anderson and plug it back on.
Finally, I decided to play with soft undervoltage, trying to find a way of softening things when the battery is not capable of wheeling anymore, so I can still ride back home. I set 72 soft undervoltage and it went better about the bms cuts, but not enough. When I accelerate (still on sport mode) I get the wheelie with no problems but as the bike passes about 15mph, even rolling of a bit, the bms cuts (it's supposed to do it when it drops below 50v as described in the battery manufacturer specs).
The last thing to try which came to mind was flux wreaking. What about flux weakling demanding to many amps after the wheelie? I don't need any speed, so I set the sport mode wreaking boxes so zero. The motor didn't spin.
Although I managed to get good settings in the 3 speeds config boxes, I never fully understood their logic, nor is explained in the manual.
Sorry for the long text but I thought I rather explain everything at once given the messy thread.
Thanks again in advance for any inputs.
[/img]

Being more specific...could anyone on the knowledge please tell me about this noise the motor is doing at very low rpm https://youtu.be/PpaaK_SuVjY[youtube]https://youtu.be/PpaaK_SuVjY[/youtube]
 
Building a little boat for the kids I am trying to get the absolute max power out of a qs-120 with em-100, and changing the power with the 3-way switch from 50% | 75% | 100%. And flux so the motor can turn up to 4000rpms. Hoping y'all can input on the settings to achieve that. As well as turning off the parking function so once I hook up the battery it can go.

Ant 300a bms
72v 16a li-on battery (Continuous Discharge Rate 400A)

em1.PNG
em2.PNG
em3.PNG
em4.PNG
em5.PNG
 
You don't seem to have the parking activate in your port settings. It shouldn't work from start.
Huge bms for that controller and motor, but better bigger than... I guess.

Quinc said:
Building a little boat for the kids I am trying to get the absolute max power out of a qs-120 with em-100, and changing the power with the 3-way switch from 50% | 75% | 100%. And flux so the motor can turn up to 4000rpms. Hoping y'all can input on the settings to achieve that. As well as turning off the parking function so once I hook up the battery it can go.

Ant 300a bms
72v 16a li-on battery (Continuous Discharge Rate 400A)

em1.PNG
em2.PNG
em3.PNG
em4.PNG
em5.PNG
 
maeso34 said:
You don't seem to have the parking activate in your port settings. It shouldn't work from start.
Huge bms for that controller and motor, but better bigger than... I guess.

Quinc said:
Building a little boat for the kids I am trying to get the absolute max power out of a qs-120 with em-100, and changing the power with the 3-way switch from 50% | 75% | 100%. And flux so the motor can turn up to 4000rpms. Hoping y'all can input on the settings to achieve that. As well as turning off the parking function so once I hook up the battery it can go.

Ant 300a bms
72v 16a li-on battery (Continuous Discharge Rate 400A)

em1.PNG
em2.PNG
em3.PNG
em4.PNG
em5.PNG

Buy once cry once. If it works out I want to upgrade to the water cooled QS138 4000w motor. :D

Problem is I cant get the motor to work at all. And it is showing a hall fault. Thing is brand new never used and already has a fault. Do I need to have a 3-way switch installed or anything else other then power to the purple/grey wire and a throttle?
 
Quinc said:
maeso34 said:
You don't seem to have the parking activate in your port settings. It shouldn't work from start.
Huge bms for that controller and motor, but better bigger than... I guess.

Quinc said:
Building a little boat for the kids I am trying to get the absolute max power out of a qs-120 with em-100, and changing the power with the 3-way switch from 50% | 75% | 100%. And flux so the motor can turn up to 4000rpms. Hoping y'all can input on the settings to achieve that. As well as turning off the parking function so once I hook up the battery it can go.

Ant 300a bms
72v 16a li-on battery (Continuous Discharge Rate 400A)

em1.PNG
em2.PNG
em3.PNG
em4.PNG
em5.PNG

Buy once cry once. If it works out I want to upgrade to the water cooled QS138 4000w motor. :D

Problem is I cant get the motor to work at all. And it is showing a hall fault. Thing is brand new never used and already has a fault. Do I need to have a 3-way switch installed or anything else other then power to the purple/grey wire and a throttle?

Number of sensors, angle, phase, are some of the data your source should provide you with, at first, or your motor won't even spin once. As your provider for a basic config file you can use to get started. It's my modest idea.
 
Sorry if this has been discussed previously. I've been searching this long thread with no luck yet.

I have a new VOTOL EM150-2sp connected to a QS138v3 motor running off a 72v battery. Fully-charged, I can confirm the battery is actually outputting 84v. I have the battery+ connected through a switch that runs back through the E-Lock purple wire on the controller. When I connect the battery and the controller via an Anderson connector and the flip my switch for the E-Lock, the red light on the controller turns on, but only for a second and then goes off. I'm not getting any data back via the USB debug cable either, presumably because the controller is not getting power?

I don't see codes for the lights in the Votol documentation. I've messaged the seller, SiAECOSYS, but I don't have a lot of hope they're going to be much help. So, I'm coming to the pro's here. Thanks in advance.

p.s. I also have an EM200 and I swapped that into my setup and everything works fine with that. It's just this EM150-2
 
Quinc said:
Anyone tried connecting/tuning the controller with Linux/ubunto or some other flavor?

Using Wine on Linux, it could be connected & parameters changed with the Windows executable
 
SHES ALIVE!!!! All it took was a second em-100 controller and swapping the throttle cables around to match. :D

Anyone have any tips on setting the rpms/flux? Right now shes blasting all the way to 6k+ I would like it to max out around 4-4500 while in (high) and only 3000rpm while in low and med. I have tried playing with the mid and high flux values but it doesn't seem to make a difference rather they are set or not.

I have also played with phase current and makes no difference rather its 900 or 9000.

flux.PNG

phase.PNG
 
maeso34 said:
Being more specific...could anyone on the knowledge please tell me about this noise the motor is doing at very low rpm https://youtu.be/PpaaK_SuVjY[youtube]https://youtu.be/PpaaK_SuVjY[/youtube]

Difficult since the mic always distorts a bit but everything sounds mechanical. Which noise is it that you wonder about?

The intermittent ”dagadang” sounds are strange and sound like thin sheet metal that gets struck. The whining and the ”click-clack” seem like straight cut gear noise and chain vs sprocket noise. Are the gears helical or straight? (i’ve seen it at some time but can’t remember)
 
Quinc said:
Anyone tried connecting/tuning the controller with Linux/ubunto or some other flavor?

I use Android to change settings.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=95969&start=2025#p1707592
 
fishblood said:
Quinc said:
Anyone tried connecting/tuning the controller with Linux/ubunto or some other flavor?

I use Android to change settings.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=95969&start=2025#p1707592

This is great work and it works! Thanks for that. There are a lot of settings on just one page. A division into 3 config and 1 monitor page.... That would be huge
 
Paulflieg said:
fishblood said:
Quinc said:
Anyone tried connecting/tuning the controller with Linux/ubunto or some other flavor?

I use Android to change settings.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=95969&start=2025#p1707592

This is great work and it works! Thanks for that. There are a lot of settings on just one page. A division into 3 config and 1 monitor page.... That would be huge

Hi, it's more fast than get off your bike and take out you NB to change setting.
I'm just develop the app on idea-developing phase, so if you find out some bugs, adjust app setting/layout or some question about settings, welcome post and let us discuss these. I'm gathering my best using-experiences and changing on this apps.

If u used to same 3 pages as PC version is ur old habit, I may help to change that. My favorite is moving the setting that is usually need changing in a group, u can change them while u just stop on a red-light and setting it then go on the road. This release just a not categorized verison.

It can change one setting and save to controller immediately and memory some backup setting on phone and restore them at one time. And also it a RPM/KM/Battery monitor. That's why I build this app. If u want some more convenient function, please share to us. thanks
 
Figured out the cause of my motor wanting to jump off the bench.. Checking the HDC box. I have tried setting it from 4000-7000 and everything in between but still wants to jump off the bench. Keeping the box unchecked the motor spins up smooth but goes to 7k+ rpms.

video is with HDC checked:
[youtube]pMViWH07j_E[/youtube]

garbage.PNG
 
hey everyone,
im running setup of qs 138 90h with the votol 200 , redution 1:7.5 and max speed of 80 km/h +-,
its a dirt bike and we ride mostly enduro ,
the lack of clutch in the system its the problem, im cant fell confidence enough to lift the front wheel without gaining too much speed on the way,
there is way i configure something in the controller to gain less speed but more torque (rate of rise:255 , rate of decline:200)
its seems when i get stuck in rocks and i want power less rpm, i spin the wheel to fast and i lose grip,
and ideas? im really trying to figure out the best way to deal with the non clutch system with the electric setup , power in not an issue its only the controller tryin to reach rpm instead of torque at least thats what i think.
 

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fishblood said:
share my Android APP which link with EM150 by BT, You may change your settings with your phone anytime/anywhere without carring a notebook PC.

Which BT module you use to comunicate with VOTOL controller? I can TRY you APP with EM-50 controller, but i must to know wich BT module Neded :roll:
 
Thunder_blade said:
fishblood said:
share my Android APP which link with EM150 by BT, You may change your settings with your phone anytime/anywhere without carring a notebook PC.

Which BT module you use to comunicate with VOTOL controller? I can TRY you APP with EM-50 controller, but i must to know wich BT module Neded :roll:

google hc-05 & set it to 115200bps
:)
 
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