Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

All my own work is done in G-code. The drive you see was designed by me, but never prototyped. I took "Napkin" sketches to Dave in the shop downstairs (my landlord) who programmed it directly into his HAAS CNC. Then the parts were all cut without any prototyping or clearance checking, or testing for that matter. Heck, this is the first two stage drive I ever assembled. :mrgreen:

After a huge amount of time becoming familiar with make stuff from scratch, you get a feel for what will work and what will not. My stuff just works without issues, first time out.

I wish I could do this with electronics............... :?

Matt
 
folded up, it almost looks like a V-Twin. especially if the freewheel adapter is at the bottom.

i just had a wet dream thinking of this looking like a V-Twin mounted on a chopper. low, wide fat-assed slick on the back, tall skinny tire up front. ape hanger bars,

two colors only, black and chrome theme carried on throughout the bike.

ohh!!! CRAP, i always did have a hair trigger when i got too excited. gotta go and have a cold shower now.

rick
 
recumpence said:
All my own work is done in G-code. The drive you see was designed by me, but never prototyped. I took "Napkin" sketches to Dave in the shop downstairs (my landlord) who programmed it directly into his HAAS CNC. Then the parts were all cut without any prototyping or clearance checking, or testing for that matter. Heck, this is the first two stage drive I ever assembled. :mrgreen:

After a huge amount of time becoming familiar with make stuff from scratch, you get a feel for what will work and what will not. My stuff just works without issues, first time out.

I wish I could do this with electronics............... :?

Matt
Some people are more than gifted! Gorgeous work on the reduction drive you have done! My vastly simple designs of anything take months of sleepless nights thinking about them then a non-working prototype to see if it is possible to build with the limited tools I have to work with. The second prototype usually almost works and the third works albeit a bit ugly to look at. Thanks for the nice pics and info.
 
The only problem is (as I mentioned) I am very good at mechanical design. Electronics, however, are another story. Remote mounting digital displays would be about the limit of my electronic skills. I am the opposite of Methods in that way. :wink:

Matt
 
matt,

that looks beautiful. if you come up with a complete bike retrofit kit (including mounting system for the bike, battery, etc. as well as ESC choice) then i bet you'd have many takers. i'd certainly consider it.
 
Why do you use a belt for the primary gear but a chain for the secondary? And why use that chain tensioner instead of a shorter chain? Is it so the chain wraps around more of the gear to spread the load around?
 
Very nice Matt,
I did not get a chance to read all of your thrad on this but i did looked at it on the start and i don t know if you posted any prices on the single and maybe if ypedal don t mind the price of the two stage drive please.
 
CGameProgrammer said:
Why do you use a belt for the primary gear but a chain for the secondary? And why use that chain tensioner instead of a shorter chain? Is it so the chain wraps around more of the gear to spread the load around?

Torque increases as reduction increases. So, the second stage sees roughly 3 times the torque of the first stage. A second stage belt would skip (I tried it on my recumbent). Also, a belt is smoother and quieter than a chain especially at high RPM. So, a belt is best for the primary reduction.

The [ball bearing] idler is mounted to a moveable adjuster plate that wraps around the jackshaft bearing tube. That was needed to achieve a decent chain wrap as well as being able to adjust out any chain stretch.

Matt
 
slayer said:
Very nice Matt,
I did not get a chance to read all of your thrad on this but i did looked at it on the start and i don t know if you posted any prices on the single and maybe if ypedal don t mind the price of the two stage drive please.

Single stage $225. Dual stage $380 (anodizing is extra). The motor shown in the pics is currently listed at $400. :D

Matt
 
Miles I see!

I'm just in a bit of shock, I thought this drive would be for the "big" motor.

The cheapo HXT brags big numbers but I think I will end up with an Astroflight motor in the future. I just can't see 3kw satisfying me.
 
northernmike said:
Miles I see!

I'm just in a bit of shock, I thought this drive would be for the "big" motor.

The cheapo HXT brags big numbers but I think I will end up with an Astroflight motor in the future. I just can't see 3kw satisfying me.

The issue is not motor but controller. This smaller Astro is good for 5kw for 30 seconds according to Astro. My guess is it will put out even more.

Anyway, again, controllers are the issue more than motors.

Matt
 
My cheapo HXT's, which are extremely well heatsinked, never have been above luke-warm, even when pushing them at and beyond the limts of RC controllers. If you put good bearings in them, glue the magnets in properly, and properly secure the rotor/shaft/windings etc, then you have a motor that people run huge power through on big airplanes without troubles. 10+kw is not uncommon for power bursts for the giant RC airplane guys with the HXT cheapy motors.
 
Hi,

Matt:
How wide is the drive?

Is it too wide for a down-tube mount (between the pedals)?

Mike:
northernmike said:
The cheapo HXT brags big numbers but I think I will end up with an Astroflight motor in the future. I just can't see 3kw satisfying me.

Maybe going through the gears 3kw will be enough. If not Davids motor will probably have more power than the HXT.
 
I like your design very much Matt! What is the weight without the motor and what power is the reduction made for? I am planing to use it for a custom made frame.
regards

Peter
 
Peter,

I do not have an exact weight for you because the various layouts can weigh more or less depending on a number of things.

It is designed for 5kw maximum. It will tolerate 7kw if the layout is correct. :mrgreen:

Matt
 
Hey Matt,

I was just looking at the freewheel adapter on the final output of the drive and had an idea. Most modern cassette hubs, the hub body can be removed. You can purchase the bodies separately from a good bike shop even. You could turn out an adapter for the final drive that accepts a hub body just like a rear bike hub and then swapping out sprockets would be incredibly easy. One could also set up a derailleur on the bike or mount to change gears at the drive output, if one wanted. A freewheel can be pretty hard to get off, especially after a lot of force has been put through it.

FM
 
Hi,

flyinmonkie said:
Hey Matt,

I was just looking at the freewheel adapter on the final output of the drive and had an idea. Most modern cassette hubs, the hub body can be removed. You can purchase the bodies separately from a good bike shop even. You could turn out an adapter for the final drive that accepts a hub body just like a rear bike hub and then swapping out sprockets would be incredibly easy. One could also set up a derailleur on the bike or mount to change gears at the drive output, if one wanted. A freewheel can be pretty hard to get off, especially after a lot of force has been put through it.

FM

I don't know if its worth the effort or not but another benefit would be the ability to use sprockets with less teeth.

An easier way (I think) to achieve the same effect (smaller, easily changed output sprockets) is to put the FW on the driven end of the final output shaft, inside either large sprocket (dual stage), or the large pulley (single stage) like Matt did for D. If there isn't sufficient demand to make it worth Matt's time Pfeifer Industries will adapt pulleys for FW's. I'm sure we can find someone who will adapt sprockets.
 
I can adapt them. But, there needs to be a desire for it to justify programming and setting up the big CNC to do it.

I would say 15 pullies would be enough demand.

Matt
 
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