Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Some strangeness today, i noticed this last night but i only went for a short ride, today i went for a 10ah rip and at half throttle the controller pulses power up and down in like 2 second bursts RRRRRrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrRRRRRRr... if i pin the throttle it rev's up and keeps on going but if i keep 50% throttle i get the pulsing...

This has never been a problem before, and as the voltage dropped from the stiff 49~48v into the 46~45v this problem was not as bad below 46v ..

I am about to plug it up to the USB and check the settings.. but other than that..

Any ideas ?
 
i was having a bit of this the other day too, Kim suggested turning fech's box up to max, if you have one???

D
 
Ypedal said:
Some strangeness today, i noticed this last night but i only went for a short ride, today i went for a 10ah rip and at half throttle the controller pulses power up and down in like 2 second bursts RRRRRrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrRRRRRRr... if i pin the throttle it rev's up and keeps on going but if i keep 50% throttle i get the pulsing...

This has never been a problem before, and as the voltage dropped from the stiff 49~48v into the 46~45v this problem was not as bad below 46v ..

I am about to plug it up to the USB and check the settings.. but other than that..

Any ideas ?
Click to expand...

Do this still happen if not under load ? ( wheel of the ground ).
 
Only thing left to fix right now is the chain tensioner on the 2nd stage, i have to trim the arm a bit as it knocks the motor ever so slightly and is very anoying, but not critical.

The bike as a whole runs good, the big 203mm Avid disk with BB5 caliper in the rear provides plenty of stop.

The nuvinci is holding up well so far ( I got it up to 40 celcius today !! )

The drive system is stable, no more slipping shafts since the divots ( but the set screws are jamed in permanently, i'm screwed when i decide to change gears.... :lol: )

Motor temps after a good run, 80 celcius ( and the drive system is by far the best heat sink ever !!!. )

Controller gets hot if i puttt around, i remedy that with a fist full of throttle. but i do wish i could run at very low thorttle positions in confidence.. i'm willing to bolt up a house brick with halls anytime now.. :lol:

time to PM fechter.. :p

EDIT :
Gwhy, good question, will test that in a moment..
 
I can tellz you the fix for it if Mr Fechter hasn't gotten back to you yet? You need to change one cap and add one resistor.
And yes turning the interface to MAX on current control effectively turns the current limit completely off, this
combined with the mods fixed my surging issue competely BUT max throttle stays on for blink of an eye after you release the throttle, get used to it quick its really hardly worth mentioning...lemme know anywayz and ill grab fechters pm for you.

EDIT : crap no i wont...the pm hasn't been saved i thought they increased the size of pm storage?!?!

KiM
 
To completely disable the limiter (and eliminate any possibility of surging), simply lift one side of D2, which is the small diode located near the middle of the board. An alternate approach is to disconnect the black wire going to the limit adjusting pot (easier to re-attach).

The best solution would be to change the loop filter caps/resistors (C6, R8, R9) to make the limiter work properly under your conditions, but finding the right values is very tricky/time consuming.

What AJ did was to increase the value of C5 to something larger, like 10uf, but this causes a lag when releasing the throttle, which is undesirable.
 
wow, even i might manage that fix, does that mean tho the controller is free to draw as much current as the pack can supply? also is the surging due to the current limiter kicking in?

D
 
deecanio said:
wow, even i might manage that fix, does that mean tho the controller is free to draw as much current as the pack can supply? also is the surging due to the current limiter kicking in?

D
Click to expand...

Mine still surged when i had the current limit right on was only when i did the mods suggested and turned
current controller up (off) was the surging fixed

KiM
 
deecanio said:
wow, even i might manage that fix, does that mean tho the controller is free to draw as much current as the pack can supply? also is the surging due to the current limiter kicking in?

D
Click to expand...

The controller itself limits to roughly 100 amps as far as i understand, the throttle box simply allowed you to limit the power to the controller if desired, i just need it to make my hall throttle work with the CC unit, don't really need limiting with the battery setup i have now.
 
Well i just hooked up my throtilizer to find its rooted ... doesn't even connect to pc anymore my great
record with electronics continues ... I took the top off to, not as impressed as i was the soldering in it is shoking compared to Fechters unit. Speaking of which i think Fechters unit is still functional trying that now but i forget which end the battery leads are plugged into, is it the end with all the wires or the end with just the two leads coming out YPedal MaNz? I cut all my connectors off and the markings gone ;-S

KiM
 
Ypedal said:
The end with the power limit adjuster goes to the battery.

end with the throttle wires go to the controller.

:wink:
Click to expand...


You are LEGEND :!: :!: :!: 8) ... Thankyou mate life saver...:: wheels off quickly to work bench :::

KiM
 
Sounds like I should consider offering a 'lite' version of the circuit that just takes a hall throttle and interfaces it to an RC controller with no limiter feature. Due to the slow response of the controller to a change in input, making the limiter feedback work without oscillating is very difficult and tuning depends on the motor, voltage, weight, gearing, etc. of the individual bike. A lite version would have about half the parts, so would be less expensive. I'm not really looking for any more projects right now, but if someone is interested, I can offer the schematic and board layout.

One other thing to consider is that AJ managed to overheat and melt one of the big capacitors on his, resulting in a short circuit. The capacitors may need to be upgraded for extended high power operation. Perhaps some big MLCCs might work better for this.
 
mmmm, looks like i'll stick with Richards box if your not overly impressed with the soldering KIm.
so sorry to be a bit electrically thick then guys but if im using a 160 now wont it try to draw 160? im stressing not using the current limiter might end another blown something or other, tbh my surging wasnt that bad to risk it?
also thanks for documenting Y i'll have to remove D2 or the black wire? also.

D
 
Alright.. so i snipped the black wire ( sown above ) and since i had it apart and was not in the mood to take it apart a 2nd time unless i have to .. for good measure i snipped the leg from D2.

Plugged it in for a test ride and it still works, but the surging is still present, not as bad but still there..

It seems to hit when i pull max amps... mext step is to hook it up to the PC again and make sure the battery protection options are all disabled !! :twisted:

before i do that tho.. time to trim the 2nd stage tensioner, this rap tap tap is driving me crazy.
 
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