Yamaha YZ250F

Sure, different temps would make a difference. But 20x a reasonable resistance?
The inductance can come close some times when I do the detection, but resistance is always 500-600+mOhm
It is a strange one that tbh.I guess Hackey will need to look into it😬
 
I finally got hold of Hackey, he took a lock at it and determined it was a dead phase in the controller.
He said he will send a new one soon.
rivvs, odd that you get 89uH. My motor seems to be 65uH, I have had that both on sevcon and this controller (when it worked)
 
These are my readings from my cl1000 buddy.Its the older Hall version 180 motor.
 

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Hello Guys! Nice to have a Swedish fellow that also are trying a 3shul.

I have ordered a cl1000 for a roadracing bike that will compete in the next race of the National championship. It’s only 4 weeks to the race so @Hackey, no pressure…. 😄
 
he took a lock at it and determined it was a dead phase in the controller.
He said he will send a new one soon.

This is great news, I’m glad He was able to identify the problem.

Seen a YouTube video recently with a cl700 controller had one of the phases shorted in the controller to the negative battery terminal! I think there’s no excuse why they don’t test each individual controller before sending out. The guy was a reseller for 3Shul, he had a whole stack of 3Shul controllers.
 
Speedy: interesting, lower resistance but a little higher inductance and higher Ld-Lq difference :unsure:
I have to ask Hackey what to make of these differences next time.
Hello Guys! Nice to have a Swedish fellow that also are trying a 3shul.

I have ordered a cl1000 for a roadracing bike that will compete in the next race of the National championship. It’s only 4 weeks to the race so @Hackey, no pressure…. 😄
Alright, have you built that bike? Do you run another controller now?
This is great news, I’m glad He was able to identify the problem.

Seen a YouTube video recently with a cl700 controller had one of the phases shorted in the controller to the negative battery terminal! I think there’s no excuse why they don’t test each individual controller before sending out. The guy was a reseller for 3Shul, he had a whole stack of 3Shul controllers.
That is the classic "shorted mosfet". One of the mosfets on the negative side on that phase is broken in the closed state, that is how mosfets usually brake.
Mine is not shorted, it is just inactive. So the problem is somewhere between the processor and mosfets I suppose. It is past my electronics knowledge at that point :rolleyes:
My problem would probably not have shown up in testing, as it took maybe 2hours riding before it started.
But it surely makes you question the quality, and it is not a good feeling :(
 
I’m building it right now. Me and my company have built a bike during the winter that I have been testing on race track until recently when we decided to sell the bike. I was supposed to race it two weekends ago but we sold it right before that. That bike had a qs180 and Fardriver. I’m going for a bigger motor on this one.
 
Got a link to that video fella👍

Can’t find the video now. I believe it was a YouTube short clip. The guy in the video used his multimeter to confirm the short. All of the other 3Shul controllers he had were good. Thankfully, the reseller was checking each controller before sending them out, unlike the actual supplier of the product lol
 
I’m building it right now. Me and my company have built a bike during the winter that I have been testing on race track until recently when we decided to sell the bike. I was supposed to race it two weekends ago but we sold it right before that. That bike had a qs180 and Fardriver. I’m going for a bigger motor on this one.
Do you have build threads or something? Would sure be interesting to see. What fardriver did you use, did the qs180 overheat for you? Wont the cl1000 be small for you, especially with a bigger motor than the qs180? Is water cooling not an option?
 
Ehum, changed all the bearings in the rear suspension:

CYSdDTq.jpg


I knew what to expect from the linkage bearings (the top pile), but the swing arm bearings (the 2 bottom piles) were really bad :oop:

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This might be abomination on a dirt bike, but I actually put grease nipples on the swing arm now..

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And here, on the dogleg(?)

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Not on the part that connects it all, that is a lot easier to change bearings in than the rest.
It might be possible to do on that too, but I would have to test the movement without a spring to see if there are clearance.
And drill the holes when the bearings are out.

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Working on getting the fardriver back on the bike with as little modifications as possible :rolleyes:
Was able to save battery and phase wires, will have to cut the rest.
The thought sure has crossed my mind to build a wiring to each controller so it would be easy to swap.
But dammit, it should not be necessary:confused:
 
Do you have build threads or something? Would sure be interesting to see. What fardriver did you use, did the qs180 overheat for you? Wont the cl1000 be small for you, especially with a bigger motor than the qs180? Is water cooling not an option?
Sorry for hijacking your thread! 🙏 It’s a really nice build you are doing and I really really hope that the 3shul controller will work out fine.

The qs180 did get to hot at the power level we needed. We dynoed 30kW at the rear wheel. We got approx 10 min in race pace before it got to hot. I made ventilation holes and air scoopes that the new owner have tested once and it seems as it made difference. We used a 961200 controller and it did it’s job well. But the lack of adjustments for throttle curves and ramps made it a little difficult in the turns. But I got used to it.

For the new bike I will make a build thread soon. Right now I need to keep it under the radar so to say. 😄 I told Hackey which motor and power levels I am going to use and he said that the CL1000 would be a good match. I will run 35kW cont (60% wot) and up to 50 peak. Do you think the 1000 will do it? It will get really good airflow and I can also water cool it if needed.

I’m getting a little stressed about not getting any respons from Hackey on when the controller will be shipped.
 
The qs180 did get to hot at the power level we needed. We dynoed 30kW at the rear wheel. We got approx 10 min in race pace before it got to hot. I made ventilation holes and air scoopes that the new owner have tested once and it seems as it made difference.
Hi,so you had this qs180-90h motor that you vented or do you mean you had a hub motor that you vented and scooped air? How heavy was that build also please.
 
A lot of bikes have Grease nipples on the suspension components, just not motorcross bikes. I guess with MX bikes it's assumed the bearings will be replaced before they need re-greasing.

Sucks about your controller, was looking forward to hearing how it went. I've been running my fardriver with the phase amps turned down (600BattA and 1200PHA) and it removed all of the rubber band feel of the throttle for little to no loss of power feel. I guess pushing too much pha-amps into the motor gains nothing but increased heat and saturated windings. Sounds like I need to go back on the dyno and measure it.

Doug
 
140 kg with 8kWh. Top speed 185 km/h.
Oh I see👍Looks cool,so what was your battery setup in that bike please?I'm building a 26s12p pack atm for my MX build with the same motor and a cl1000 vesc.I imagine 140kg plus rider with full gear and bike being ridden at high speed for long periods is very hard on the motor.Mine will be geared for 60mph so lots of torque and less need for settings to be turned all the way up,but I appreciate when you need more mph for road racing so it's just not possible.Would love to see this bike on track👍
 
The qs180 did get to hot at the power level we needed. We dynoed 30kW at the rear wheel. We got approx 10 min in race pace before it got to hot. I made ventilation holes and air scoopes that the new owner have tested once and it seems as it made difference. We used a 961200 controller and it did it’s job well. But the lack of adjustments for throttle curves and ramps made it a little difficult in the turns.
That power levels are ok for my dream of a supermoto conversion, which will be geared to 130-140 with flux weakening.
Was acceleration from a standstill good with 180km/h top speed?
Why did you have problems with throotle curve and current. I find my ND72680 in my scooter has a super smooth and precise control with it´s 20 parameters for current over the whole speed band.

Your new aim with 50kW peak would even suit me needs better. Which motor will you use?
 
A lot of bikes have Grease nipples on the suspension components, just not motorcross bikes. I guess with MX bikes it's assumed the bearings will be replaced before they need re-greasing.

Sucks about your controller, was looking forward to hearing how it went. I've been running my fardriver with the phase amps turned down (600BattA and 1200PHA) and it removed all of the rubber band feel of the throttle for little to no loss of power feel. I guess pushing too much pha-amps into the motor gains nothing but increased heat and saturated windings. Sounds like I need to go back on the dyno and measure it.

Doug
The 3shul will come back on the bike in a few weeks, after some important riding where I dont want to to risk any problems.
Well, if I have it by then that is of course;)

I am thinking this motor should be able to take more, but I suppose it is a matter of how the controller handles saturation.
I agree, of course you have to put it on the dyno again :mrgreen:
I think you should be able to get it to hold out to higher rpm, and not drop off as fast.
Sorry for hijacking your thread! 🙏 It’s a really nice build you are doing and I really really hope that the 3shul controller will work out fine.

The qs180 did get to hot at the power level we needed. We dynoed 30kW at the rear wheel. We got approx 10 min in race pace before it got to hot. I made ventilation holes and air scoopes that the new owner have tested once and it seems as it made difference. We used a 961200 controller and it did it’s job well. But the lack of adjustments for throttle curves and ramps made it a little difficult in the turns. But I got used to it.

For the new bike I will make a build thread soon. Right now I need to keep it under the radar so to say. 😄 I told Hackey which motor and power levels I am going to use and he said that the CL1000 would be a good match. I will run 35kW cont (60% wot) and up to 50 peak. Do you think the 1000 will do it? It will get really good airflow and I can also water cool it if needed.

I’m getting a little stressed about not getting any respons from Hackey on when the controller will be shipped.
What you are doing is a lot different than what I do, so what controller to choose to what motor will probably be different too.
I am more after the biggest kick possible, and a few 100 extra phase amps sure pisses the motors off:D
But in your case you will have to be careful with the phase amps to get good efficiency in the motor.
If you will run 500bA it probably wont do you much good to run three times the phase amps, because it will only be available at low rpm where you aren't riding anyway except for the start.

A few reasons I think that it can still be useful with a bigger controller is you dont have to run it at its limits, and therefor get better efficiency in the controller.
And you can always crank it up if you ran a qualifying lap and can take to heat things up faster:p
But dont listen to me, I am bad influence..

I got the bike together in time yesterday to take to an evening practice at a track.
It is hot and dry here now, it is slippery with hard dirt with a layer of dust. I got a hang of it after a few laps, and were getting up to speed.
But then I hit something hard, that I really wasent expecting. Went over the handlebars sideways it seems, hit a tree with my back just over the ass where the back protection didnt cover, and got the bike in the stomach when it tried to continue it journey without rider.

The bike didnt suffer much damage it seems, I think the dash panel got a bit bent. I suppose it was that area that I got in the stomach.
Then the handguard took a hit, probably when the bike hit the ground.

My stomach seems ok, a few bruises. It also got hit under the protection, but had a little natural protection layer.
The back dosent feel to good, parts I dont really feel, parts are sour. Hope it will be ok until the weekend.
 
Ok, the bike is ready I think.

or6NEWr.jpg


Got numbers and stuff. Almost new tires as well ;)

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Finally I mounted a horn too, activated by the kill switch.

The body would probably want a week or two more to recover, but it will have to do.
I was able to do 3 laps last weekend on this long 22km track, but it hurt and I took long breaks between them.
Now I will have to do them with short breaks.

A warning to sensitive viewers, almost a nude male ass if you keep looking down:

E4veq3t.jpg
 
Geez mate, take it easy out there. I crashed a few years back, dislocated my collar bone at the sternum and it never will be the same. As someone who has crashed and has disabilities from it please be careful out there. I also smacked my head pretty hard and that effected me for at least a yr with memory issues so make sure you spend top dollar on your helmet.

Doug
 
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