Yamaha YZ250F

Strange thing is that it isn't the obviously beaten up blue areas that is problematic, it is the hip that looks more or less ok.
You can feel that it is a little swollen and stiff though.
My race was yesterday, the bike did well and the body held up ok. I slightly felt my injuries, but not much.
I had 2 small incidents, one rider fell on me when I passed him and I managed to fall all by myself in a deep muddy track once.

I had good help in the pit from a friend who changed batteries for me, he was there in time and did it fast and well:)
Still it sure messes up your times to make 2 pitstops to change batteries.
I had a friend in the same race, but he had a better number and started 2 lines ahead of me. I didnt know it then, but I passed him twice.
He had new clotes and a different backpack than I expected, so I didn't recognize him. But on each lap I passed, he was able to pass me when I was in the pit. On the last l didnt catch him, so he ended up ahead of me🙁

It is the big downside of this sport that it is easy to get hurt. I have had a few crashes that has taken some recovery.
I try to avoid it of course, but isn't always easy.
 
It looks like I have a problem:

GDlBgtj.jpg


This is what the newly built battery looks like after the race.
I have noticed that cell 1 was slightly high earlier, but I think it was only a few mV.
Now both 1 and 2 are significantly off, and 3 too are slightly off.
It looks to me like it is likely a bms issue, especially as it is the cells next to each other.

I think I will have to cut it open and see what is going on :(
 
Not sure when you are receiving your new controller from Hackey but I am in the middle of doing the encoder conversion.Ill be able to give you the heads up on what you have to do as we both have the version of the 180 motor.Turns out it's not quite as simple as I would of hoped but at the same time it's not bad.Hackey will be setting mine up mine again tonight👍
 
I was tempted to try to balance, but it seemed to unlikely that cell one would be so much higher than the others. I could have believed one low cell..
I cut up the battery and took measurements but couldnt find anything wrong.
I had an extra bms for a forth battery, took the measuring pcb from that and kept the power pcb that I have modified.
Then it looked like this without any balancing or anything:

CnUg27D.jpg
 
Not sure when you are receiving your new controller from Hackey but I am in the middle of doing the encoder conversion.Ill be able to give you the heads up on what you have to do as we both have the version of the 180 motor.Turns out it's not quite as simple as I would of hoped but at the same time it's not bad.Hackey will be setting mine up mine again tonight👍
My new controller was supposed be sent a week ago, but I havent heard anything so I am pretty sure it didnt..
I actually wrote and asked about it yesterday, but no answer so far.

Yes, it will be interesting to hear about your experiences :bigthumb:
 
I didnt film anything myself, but if anyone is interested I'm in this film a lot:


I pass him at 14:17 (287 yellow helmet and shirt, black backpack)
He almost pass me a few minutes later when he takes a less crowded line.

We have contact when we both want to get up the muddy mountain about 24min in.
After that it is just me in front of him for a long time until I finally pull away.
 
I was given the option to send the bms back (at my own expense) to get it checked.
The shipping wasnt too bad, so I went for it to see what happens.

Also working on the fork. I think it is too stiff on the small bumps and rocks, but falls through on the big stuff.
I read somewhere that the stock springs should be 4.6N/mm but we measured mine to 4.8N/mm.

I have tried 5.2N/mm, and they were very nice on big hits. Felt very controlled and stable when landing on the front wheel and stuff like that, without being too stiff. However, on roots and rocks you thought you would rattle out the teeth.

I have then changed to one of the 5.2 and one 4.8 spring, for something of a midway.
My suspension guy has done some re-valving before on it, but now we are doing more when I know better what I want:

wzg9yg2.jpg


I think there were 17 of the biggest size 0.1mm thick shims. If I remember correctly he removed 6 of those, and added smaller and a little thicker shims halfway down in size.

He also stiffened up the rebound a little in the midvalve. It was built as 2 stage, but he changed that.
I dont think he changed anything in the compression in the midvalve.

We will also change the compression springs as they both were broken :oop:
 
I thought there was a very noticeable knock when giving and releasing throttle on last weeks ride.
So I decided it was time to check the primary reduction, and it sure was:

Jv3KzDE.jpg


Tightened it, and also the other chain. Now it was silent again :)

w1jaB3K.jpg


I think I have to do something about my rear tire, it dosent seem to stay on the rim..
It is grey like that up to the rim lock :oop:
I think I will try double rim locks. Maybe I should change mousse, but I have very good traction with this one..
 
It was a long time ago I posted a muddy picture, so here you go:

LPDTZcK.jpg


It had been raining for days, and was still raining when I was riding.
So it was too wet for thick mud, but it sure has a good spread over both rider and bike.

Back to battery problems with the the new battery 3.
Last time I used it I noticed it had lower voltage when I started than the other one.
It was maybe 119V somewhere, when they usually are about 120,3V. I also noticed cell one was lower then the rest, so the opposite of how it was before I changed bms. I used the battery anyway, and this is how it looked afterwards:

bogIuaJ.jpg


I didnt see much other options than to cut it open again :(
When I measure the voltages cell one is 30mV HIGHER than the rest, not lower like the bms shows.

So I suppose the bms have been "balancing", that is probably why the battery had lower voltage.

Im not sure what to do now, are the ant bms:es just junk now?
Can it be something else that makes the bms read wrong after a few charge/discharge cycles?
Can my mod of the power stage mess up the measurements somehow?
But I made the exact same mod on the first 2 bms:es, and have used those over a year without any problem :confused:

j9cQnpl.jpg


A problem in the wiring maybe? It is hard to see if the pins are ok, they are so damn small. There dosent seem to be any "lip" pressing on the pin that goes in to this. And I dont have any square pin in the right size to test the squeeze with. I doubt it is a bad connection though, it didnt make any difference to the reading when I pulled and pressed etc. on the wires. They also test fine when I measure from the cells to the pins on the bms.

YCGU3yW.jpg


I will change the whole cell module and the wires for the first cells and see what happens I suppose
 
The latest is that it will ship this week. I got that update when I asked about it a week or two ago.
How about you, have you got it working with the encoder?
Hi ya, he tested the new encoder kit at home then sent it out but found it was actually a problem with my controller,timing issue.My new unit will be here Monday.Ive actually converted my motor back to hall sensor now as it seems easy to setup and get a good base tune i can just go out and have some fun at least.Maybe use the Encoder kit later on,just want to ride the damn thing atm lol.He has been good sending out parts when needed and helping for hours on end.
 
Hi ya, he tested the new encoder kit at home then sent it out but found it was actually a problem with my controller,timing issue.My new unit will be here Monday.Ive actually converted my motor back to hall sensor now as it seems easy to setup and get a good base tune i can just go out and have some fun at least.Maybe use the Encoder kit later on,just want to ride the damn thing atm lol.He has been good sending out parts when needed and helping for hours on end.

So wait, your 3Shul controller was faulty too? 😅
 
Hi ya, he tested the new encoder kit at home then sent it out but found it was actually a problem with my controller,timing issue.My new unit will be here Monday.Ive actually converted my motor back to hall sensor now as it seems easy to setup and get a good base tune i can just go out and have some fun at least.Maybe use the Encoder kit later on,just want to ride the damn thing atm lol.He has been good sending out parts when needed and helping for hours on end.
This dosent sound too encouraging :(
It feels more like we are beta testers than buyers of a finished product.
I havent heard anything, so I dont expect my controller to have shipped this week either.
 
This dosent sound too encouraging :(
It feels more like we are beta testers than buyers of a finished product.
I havent heard anything, so I dont expect my controller to have shipped this week either.
I think it may be a QC problem myself tbh. Hes clearly not hand building them all himself because he would test before they go out the door first after chatting with him.The few guys i chat with who run the cl1000 are having great success.Im just going to stick it out and hope for the best,like i said mine comes toz so ill report back if helps
 
I have wasted quite a few hours on the battery now.
I decided to change the first 3 balance wires just to make sure there is no problem there, and also change that cell module.
The wiring work didnt go as planned:

ER6jJqz.jpg


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I didnt think about that I have split the wire to the first and last cell of the modules to minimize the effect of voltage drop in the bus bars.
That meant that there were one or two live wires that should not touch any of the battery poles.
it did and not just that wire got burned, a lot of wires did..

So I had to build a new wiring for 26 cells or so.
It took a long time to balance all the cells too, when I changed module :rolleyes:

V8mflkE.jpg


And in the end it was all for nothing (as expected..)
This is what the bms reads when all the cells are balanced within 3mV.

I also got fed up with riding with the side panel cut out for the cl1400:

ZC0DsgD.jpg


5DikpaU.jpg


I get a little stuck with the boot in the edge of the cutout from time to time, and I also wear down the aluminum on the rear frame over the controller with the boot.
I havent done anything about it until now, because the fardriver was just temporary :rolleyes:
Now, maybe a week since I changed the panel I got a text from Hackey saying my controller is ready to be shipped on monday.
 
Guess what, the cl1400 didn't ship this week.. But now I got a shipping number, so hopefully tomorrow. Or at least the next few days:unsure:
Not much new, some mud again:

uIl1XDY.jpg


After a practice track on a grass field, that was a challenge to get rid of ! The grass really reinforced the mud, and it got properly stuck around chain and sprocket. Without mud:

j4ZJ8PU.jpg


ubsdC2q.jpg


Changed the return spring for the third time, but I think I have solved it now.
When the foot peg gets hit so the pin bends, the smaller area where the spring is mounted gets deformed. Then the spring cant move as it should, and thereby brakes. Grinded off a little material, it seems to work now.

MYkY6ro.jpg


Another muddy picture.. Had a competition yesterday. It was wet before, then it rained the whole day before the race.
It was a small thing, 30 people. Only 18 finished the race, it was very slippery. I got cramp in both legs on the last lap 😫
But I did finish.

Sometimes I want to get back to tubes, and skip the expensive and maintenance needing mousses.
But then I have a look at my tires:

sASJ93q.jpg


IG4QX15.jpg


This might have been a flat.

01lrg6f.jpg


Im pretty sure this would have been a flat, and this on the front mousse:

MowAwfm.jpg
 
Hi fella, as we have the same exact 180 hall motor and i just picked up a 108-1800 Fardriver can you by any chance shoot me over some pics of your settings pls.Would be nice to have some base settings to work from and then adjust and tune for my setup.
 
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