Elektrosherpa said:
Thanks for all the answers.
So I suppose I have to look for an android phone app on the Kelly homepage for setting up the controller...
You have two choices here, either use the android app, or use the desktop PC app.
I would use the PC interface at first to set up everything since I'm more comfortable working on a comupter, but I guess that's a matter of preference. Did you also get the cable to connect it to the computer?
Elektrosherpa said:
As you can see from my questions, I am an absolute beginner in e-motorbikes
No worries, we all were beginners at some point :wink:
Elektrosherpa said:
The 48 V idea comes from the following thoughts:
Being an absolute beginner, and in order not to open too many difficult "construction sites" at once,
my idea was to start with assembling the drive components first,
using just a set of 4 simple lead batteries for testing.
Sound like a good plan, but why not just add 2 more lead acid batteries and directly go for 72V?
Elektrosherpa said:
As j bjork assumed, the Motor is a QS138 (that's what they wrote in the bill).
The controller is a Kelly KLS7245N .
You could have used a much more powerful controller if you wanted to, but at least it should work and be reliable.
No problem to expect with this config.
Elektrosherpa said:
This is the first disappointment-indeed there are cable ends with plugs, but those are not matching.
Neither the cable colors nor the plugs...
Haha, yeah, classic China.
They always mess up with the small details. I guess you'll have to learn how to crimp connectors.
Believe it or not, this is actually a good thing. Those connectors are rubbish anyway, so it's a good opportunity to upgrade them right from the start and get waterproof ones.
One, if not the main cause of trouble in our machines is water going into the wiring, so I'd recommend you to purchase some good automotive waterproof connectors and properly rewire everything. Stuff like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Connectors-Electrical-Wire-1P-2P-3P-4P-5P-6P-Male-and-Female-Plug-/233208617442
Get a crimping tool like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Qibaok-Ratcheting-0-5-1-5mm%C2%B2-Connectors-Terminals/dp/B07RZSSTSJ/ref=asc_df_B07RZSSTSJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366281307321&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6965512623188247955&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060325&hvtargid=pla-833633159924&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=75985294253&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=366281307321&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6965512623188247955&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060325&hvtargid=pla-833633159924
And watch a few tutorials to see how to do it, this one's great:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgrA_6zFqqY
It's really not rocket science, don't be intimidated, take your time and do it properly.
If you're not sure about wire colors post clear pictures here and we'll help you.
Elektrosherpa said:
Only one 6 wire cable end plug of the controller fits the 6 wire cable end of the motor-
at least mechanically, but the cable colors do not match.
I guess this is the cable for the hall sensors of the motor. Please post pictures to make sure that everything is ok.
Elektrosherpa said:
And one 4 wire cable end plug fits the programming cable thing.
Ok
Elektrosherpa said:
The display doesn't even have a name. It looks like that:
Display-details.jpg
Let's keep the display for the end, first solve the essential stuff.
Elektrosherpa said:
The throttle also is different from the ones I used on my bicycles-it has a 3 way switch and two plugs with 3 wires each:
Throttle.jpg
The green/red/black plug is the throttle.
The other one is the three way switch, which allows you to switch between the three speed modes if you want.
The necessary things to run the motor are:
-Battery+ and - to the controller
-Ignition: from the battery positive to the ignition wire of the controller
-Throttle: the green/red/black wire
-Phase wires: the big yellow/blue/green cables of the motor, to be connected to the controller
-Hall sensors: the other, thinner cable that comes from the motor. Notice there should be two of them, one is actually a spare so that you can switch to it in case the first one fails
Once these are connected you'll be able to make the motor move under it's own power. All the other stuff is optional and can be connected later, just focus your attention onto what is really necessary.