24v e-trike

[lucajo16]

hi everyone so I am building a 24v trike to use for uber eats....its allowed in my city. I am looking for a kit that is priced from 100-200 dollars that has everything for it. id like a hub motor but a chain drive kit is ok as well. I just need to make sure it fits my budget. I don't have a lot of skills with a solder so it needs to be an easy fit. I have a friend I can ask to solder a connector to the battery or if the vendor I buy from sells a battery that would be a +. I do plan to do some light hills but ive used a 24v in my city in the past and it will do fine....anything helps...thanks for stoping by!

 

[Chalo]

That's a very tight budget. It's probably more feasible if you can buy what you need secondhand.

What kind of trike do you have, and why do you specify 24V? Anymore, 36V and 48V offer better cost-effectiveness and wider availability. If you are intending to economize by using lead acid batteries, don't. It's not worth it.

When your budget and your ability to fabricate your own parts are both sharply limited, and assuming you are using a conventional granny trike or industrial trike, then a front hub motor is almost always the way to go. And for your budget, that means the cheapest kind of direct drive motor in the slowest winding you can find.

 

[lucajo16]

That's a very tight budget. It's probably more feasible if you can buy what you need secondhand.

What kind of trike do you have, and why do you specify 24V? Anymore, 36V and 48V offer better cost-effectiveness and wider availability. If you are intending to economize by using lead acid batteries, don't. It's not worth it.

When your budget and your ability to fabricate your own parts are both sharply limited, and assuming you are using a conventional granny trike or industrial trike, then a front hub motor is almost always the way to go. And for your budget, that means the cheapest kind of direct drive motor in the slowest winding you can find.

well i wanted 24v but i asked around and was told 36 is the new 24. also i have had a hard time trying to find a 24v so ive changed my mind. yes its a granny / industrial trike. its a three speed but sense i am using a front hub a mid drive is out of the question. i also was woundering if i can use lipo packs ment for RC and drones in my bike. I saw a kid overclock a motor to 60v from 48 and im sure i can do that with my set up.....not that i want to. id like to keep it at 36v but im woundering what direction i should go for a battery option

 

[APL]

It would help to know what kind of distance you plan to do, in a day, and how much pedaling you are willing to do.

The amount of weight you intend to carry, and the 'hill' you described would help also.
Battery size, and it's ability, are dependent on this info.

Lipo is the way to go these days, but at your budget I wonder if they are in the picture, you might have to settle for
'used' lipo, or possibly the dreaded lead acids,.. if the distance is short,.. and upgrade later.

 

[APL]

It's not always wise to go as cheap as you can. Like everything else in life,..cars, bikes, guitars, etc., if you go
cheap, it won't be long before you'r disappointed, and want better. Then you've spent good money on something
that you can't get a return out of.

It's a better deal to take your good money and buy 'one' good component for your system. Save money for the rest
of the parts, and spend time learning about these things in the mean time.

Theres more to it than meets the eye, and dangers to be aware of with batteries and chargers. Lipo's are sensitive
creatures, and and you really need to learn more about them.

I would spend some time just looking around this forum for a while, before you spend any money. You will be glad
you did.

 

[neptronix]

Lipo is the way to go these days, but at your budget I wonder if they are in the picture, you might have to settle for
'used' lipo, or possibly the dreaded lead acids,.. if the distance is short,.. and upgrade later.

Yikes, wouldn't recommend that to a newbie. Soldering is the first thing you'll have to do. Figuring out whether you have a ticking timebomb or a well matched pack is the second.

Lipos were my first battery but a forum member here held my hand with it and one of my first packs discharged it's gasses for no reason i could figure at the time. Luckily it did that instead of catch fire.

Even though i wrote a manual for assessing and balancing unknown RC Lipo packs, using them without a BMS is not something i can sanely recommend unless you know what you're doing, or are at least willing to learn the fine points do the work needed to prevent disaster.

 

[lucajo16]

Yikes, wouldn't recommend that to a newbie. Soldering is the first thing you'll have to do. Figuring out whether you have a ticking timebomb or a well matched pack is the second.

Lipos were my first battery but a forum member here held my hand with it and one of my first packs discharged it's gasses for no reason i could figure at the time. Luckily it did that instead of catch fire.

Even though i wrote a manual for assessing and balancing unknown RC Lipo packs, using them without a BMS is not something i can sanely recommend unless you know what you're doing, or are at least willing to learn the fine points do the work needed to prevent disaster.

Ya I have experince using them in electric skateboard stuff. all i need to do is get a low voltage alarm and stop when the alarm goe's off. I havent figured out how to kill the pack safely. i do however want to build my own pack with micha's vruzend packs sense
this type of build would be perfect for this.