500W 36V Rear Hub 38A Controller Upgrade = More Speed???

[bakaneko]

Sorry, this might be probably the dumbest post in the world. But, I am making a spare/alternative ebike just in case my 3kW Cyclone ebike takes a dump or needs work. I have a 500W 36V gearless rear hub motor from before the Cyclone that came with a 22A stock controller. The speed is "limited" to 20 mph, really 22-23 for me. But, I wanted to make sure that this limitation is due to the ampere limit of the stock 22A controller and not the hub motor windings or anything like that. So, I found this 38A 36V 1000W controller. I didn't even know a 36V 1000W nominal controller exists... Some how I stumbled upon it finally. But, can anyone let me know? I want to know if this 36V 38A 1000W controller on a 500W rear hub will push me to 27-30mph. The stock controller peaked at like 800W on the 500W rear hub. THX

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-36V-48V-1000W-38A-E-bike-Vehicle-Scooter-Brushless-Motor-Speed-Controller-US/382610841757?hash=item591562209d:g:Z6sAAOSwHGxb161A:rk:8f:0

 

[amberwolf]

You don't even have to upgrade to find out, if it uses the speed sensor on the same wheel as the motor drives.

Flip the bike upside down.

Run the bike at full throttle.

If the speed is the same as full throttle when riding, then the controller is physically limiting the speed. It is not power-related.

If the speed is slightly higher (up to around 10-20% higher), then there's no speed limit in the controller, and it's probably the winding of the wheel limiting the speed.

If the speed is way higher, then it's probably just power limiting your speed.


Replacing the controller would fix either a speed or power limit.

Going to a higher voltage battery and a controller at the higher power would increase the speed by about the same ratio as the voltage difference.


Keep in mind that pulling that much more current from the battery may cause a lot more voltage sag, and may push it so hard it damages it eventually. Depends on your battery and usage scenario.

 

[E-HP]

But, I wanted to make sure that this limitation is due to the ampere limit of the stock 22A controller and not the hub motor windings or anything like that.

It takes maybe 500 watts of energy for your bike to travel at your current top speed. That translates to under 14 amps, so nowhere close to your 22 amp rating. Do you have a picture or the model of your existing controller?

 

[bakaneko]

But, I wanted to make sure that this limitation is due to the ampere limit of the stock 22A controller and not the hub motor windings or anything like that.

It takes maybe 500 watts of energy for your bike to travel at your current top speed. That translates to under 14 amps, so nowhere close to your 22 amp rating. Do you have a picture or the model of your existing controller?

Yes, I didn't try to push it on that controller because I didn't want to fry it during the summer. I can take a picture tomorrow; its dark and cold atm and the flash photo isnt working well on that shiny surface. THX

I might be getting ahead of myself. This is just for my reference. I still need to find a cheap folding bike.

 

[bakaneko]

But, I wanted to make sure that this limitation is due to the ampere limit of the stock 22A controller and not the hub motor windings or anything like that.

It takes maybe 500 watts of energy for your bike to travel at your current top speed. That translates to under 14 amps, so nowhere close to your 22 amp rating. Do you have a picture or the model of your existing controller?

Hi. Here is a picture of the controller. Let me know if anything can be surmised from the label otherwise I will just try amberwolf suggestion. I sure hope I can make it go faster. :|