Aventon Sinch Battery for DIY Ebike

Braddudya

100 W
Joined
Jan 30, 2022
Messages
140
I bought 2 14ah 48v used packs from jag35. Apparently they contain Samsung 35e 3500mah cells in 13s3p config I believe.
https://jag35.com/products/r8-r-series-48v-14ah-672wh-ebike-battery?_pos=1&_sid=a63f43733&_ss=r

I was planning to harvest the cells and build a 52V pack. But the batteries arrived and they both turn green when I press the status button. One even came with the mounting slot that would be easy to attach to my bike and allow for interchangeable batteries. Having 2 seemingly functional 48V packs plus the mount which makes me think I should just try to find a lock key and figure out how to mount these to my bike!

IMG_20220209_174039398.jpg

Are there any problems with this plan? I am electrically and mechanically inclined but I have never worked on or even used an ebike. My plan would be to make a mount that accepts these batteries using the included mount and then use them to run a BBSHD.

Main Questions
1. Is it likely or is there a good way to check if this pack can supply the amperage required for a 1000w BBSHD?
2. The 4 output ports on the battery are labeled + - A B. Obviously I understand + and - but what purpose are A and B? Voltage monitoring? Temp?
3. Is having 1 large 52V 20ah battery significantly better performance than 2 48V 14ah batteries that are lighter?

IMG_20220209_174012218_HDR.jpg
IMG_20220209_174022602_HDR.jpg
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Thanks everyone for taking the time and for your replies

Edited post title from "since" to "Sinch"
 
Braddudya said:
Main Questions
1. Is it likely or is there a good way to check if this pack can supply the amperage required for a 1000w BBSHD?
Probably not enough for 1000W. 13S3P. 35E cells are good for 8A when new. 8x3 = 24A; 24A x 48 = 1152W, assuming new cells. Barely enough when new, and the cells sag a lot if you get them close to 8A.
 
This was my main concern along with the factory BMS being specd for a 500W motor. Dang. Well I guess I'll just stick with my original plan! Haha
 
Braddudya said:
This was my main concern along with the factory BMS being specd for a 500W motor. Dang. Well I guess I'll just stick with my original plan! Haha

14S5P should be plenty. I'll keep an eye out for your results, since building a battery pack is my next check box.
 
Braddudya said:
3. Is having 1 large 52V 20ah battery significantly better performance than 2 48V 14ah batteries that are lighter?
Define "performance" for you in this instance.

Top speed?
Acceleration?
Range?
Reliability?
Lifespan?
Charging time?

Also, do we assume exact same cells, condition, assembly materials and methods between the two batteries?
 
I actually just realized that the packs must be 4p because it's 14ah with 3.5ah cells. So maybe the current is somewhat safe? I believe the 1000w BBSHD generally draws 30a peak (according to Luna) so that would be 7.5a per cell intermittently.

As for performance I just mean the seat of the pants get up and go power. I don't plan on super long commutes and I mainly want to get up to atleast 25mph when I am climbing the hill to my place from work. There is no shoulder in one section which is why I don't like riding my bike currently. Not trying to build a race bike just a fun bike with hill climbing power. I do want to do some off road trails but nothing crazy.

Top speed?
- 30 would be great
Acceleration?
- yes please, just for the grins
Range?
-20 miles or so.
Reliability?
-They are used batteries so we will see
Lifespan?
- not huge concern but certainly do t want to burn them out in 6 months or something
Charging time?
- absolutely don't care about this. I would have all day to charge it at work.

Both batteries should be the same in terms of construction but probably have different levels of use. I can take them apart to verify the batteries are the same and correct.
 
Braddudya said:
I actually just realized that the packs must be 4p because it's 14ah with 3.5ah cells. So maybe the current is somewhat safe? I believe the 1000w BBSHD generally draws 30a peak (according to Luna) so that would be 7.5a per cell intermittently.

Just try them out. That's a lot easier then disassembling the packs, and you'll know after a few rides if the cells are in decent shape.
 
I may do that.

Does anyone know what A and B are for? I am guessing it is something simple I am just not aware of.
 
Braddudya said:
I may do that.

Does anyone know what A and B are for? I am guessing it is something simple I am just not aware of.

I've seen that come up before on the forum. I don't think it signifies much. I recall that both pins on the one side are (+) and the other side (-), and possibly the dual pins for each share the current flow (2 better than 1). Maybe do a search?
 
I did try searching it on Google but I will check here as well. I wonder if it may be some sort of enable signal? Like to enable output of the batter when the bike is turned on. Not sure but I will keep searching.
 
Braddudya said:
I did try searching it on Google but I will check here as well. I wonder if it may be some sort of enable signal? Like to enable output of the batter when the bike is turned on. Not sure but I will keep searching.

Measure the resistance between (+) and A, and (-) and B. If it's zero, there's no difference.
 
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