AccidentalMayhem89 said:
Yes, bike worked with original setup. No, this is not the original motor. Same brand, just 1000w instead of 750w.
Ok, then that means we don't know that any of the components are functional, so we don't have any working reference points. You may have more than one problem preventing the system from working.
If the new and old motors have the same connector, you could try using the old motor on the new controller, just to test it, and if it doesn't work either, try the new motor on the old controller/display/etc system (which doesn't have to be moutned on the bike--only the motor must be mounted so it doesn't spin out the axle wiring and damage things)
But I'd check out the controller LVC vs battery voltage issue first.
I don't know what the controller is set for, 72v or 60v battery. As far as I know, its only got one setting because there are no buttons to press on the controller. Or, would that be setup with the display?
Some controllers have solder pads / jumpers inside on the PCB for setting what battery voltage they work at. Some use the display to tell them. Some automatically adjust the setting at power on or battery connection each time, but this is problematic when a battery is at a "borderline" voltage, where it could be a mostly-empty higher voltage battery, or a mostly-full lower voltage battery....
Some have no setting at all, and just are whatever they are, which if not stated in the specs on the page you bought it from, would have to be determined experimentally by finding the battery voltage at which it does work, then lower the voltage until it doesn't. (but you can't do that until the system works, first).
The 60v battery is fully charged. Reads 62.6v with everything on.
62.6v isn't full for a 60v battery. A 60v battery would average about 59.2v when half full; if it's Li-Ion (vs LiFePO4) then it is a 16s battery, and if it's full it would be 4.2v / cell x 16 = 67.2v. Empty it would be about 48v or so, to a 60v controller, and about 45v or so to the BMS in the battery itself.
If the charger the battery came with only goes up to 62.6v (often marked on the charger, and sometimes full and empty voltages are marked on the battery too), then the battery is not a 60v 16s Li-Ion, unless the charger has a problem, is set wrong, etc.
If the charger goes up to 67-68v when not connected to the battery, then the battery isn't fully charged yet. If it is brand new, that's a bad sign because it is already badly unbalanced, which means there are some cell groups in it that have significantly different capacity than others, which is why the charger stopped where it did--the BMS would stop charging to prevent overcharge of the low-capacity groups. If the BMS has balancers, it would correct the voltage difference and allow the pack to charge to full voltage, but it cannot fix the capacity difference between groups, and those lowest capacity groups will limit the whole pack to that lower capacity, vs what the pack is supposed to be. And it will only get worse over time.
A 72v battery would be 20s (84v full), and it's conceivable that a 72v controller could have an LVC as high as 62-63v--if it does, then the controller won't respond because it thinks the battery is empty.
No, the controller/display has not been set up. I dont know how to do that...?
No, the motor has not been setup in the controller. I will do that.
You'd need to check the manual for the controller / display kit for how to use them together and set them up for your particular system and usage.
If you don't have a hardcopy manual, you would need to check with the seller to get an electronic copy of it. If they don't have one, you would need to check with the manufacturer of the controller / display. If *they* don't have one, you can try google/etc for a manual based on the names/numbers on the display/controlller labels, but I wouldn't expect to find one in that case. YOu can also check this forum to see if anyone else has ever posted settings / manual for this display and controller. If there isn't any manual at all, you would simply have to "guess" at what various settings are, and make certain you write down every setting in every screen on the display setup before you change any setting at all. If you don't, then you can't change them back to what they were "from the factory", as a base reference, when things don't work or go wrong.
No, no sound is made from the motor, on or off ground.
Then the controller is not even attempting to spin the motor, which leans more toward a connection problem between motor and controller, or controller and throttle/etc, or the controller-LVC problem (battery not high enough voltage).
For the white cord coming from the motor, the be reason is d ok t have it plugged in is because I don't see a matching cord to plug into it from the controller. Is the white cord required to be plugged in for the bike to operate? I ask because tbere are lots of wires coming from the controller that I have no need for, such as Window Lock function (haha)and Im curious if this cord is like that...
"Window lock" is another one of those really bad translations. Sometimes this is "door lock" instead, but it is none of those. Depending on the controller, it might be a security feature that when turned on (grounded, usually) it attempts to prevent the motor wheel from being turned, so someone can't ride away with your bike very easily. Or it might be an "ignition" wire, that must be connected to battery voltage in order for the controller to turn on at all. I've seen both of those functions marked as "door lock" or similar before.
If you want to know the speed the bike is going, and it is a geared hubmotor, then yes you need to connect that wire to the controller/display's speed sensor input wire.
If it does not have such an input, and only works to read the motor hall sensors for speed (in which case you have to enter the motor's number of magnetic poles, times the gear ratio of the internal motor gearing), and will only read speed while the motor is pushing the bike, becuase you only see motor speed, not actual wheel speed. If the display has no way to setup these things, then it can't correctly display the speed even from the motor halls.
If the white wire from the motor is a speed sensor, then when the motor is connected to the controller, even without the white wire connected to anything, and the controller is turned on, you should be able to see pulses of voltage on a voltmeter/multimeter that is connected red lead to white wire, black lead to hall ground or battery negative (same reference voltage), and set to 20VDC, when you manually rotate the wheel slowly in either forward or reverse.
If you see no pulses, it may be a thermal sensor instead. That may output either a voltage that changes with temperature, or more typically be a resistance that starts around 10kohms at "room temperature" or around 72F, and goes up as temperature drops or goes down as temps rise, when measured with the multimeter on 20kohm range and leads in same place as previous test.
