Direct Drive Genesis

[skeetab5780]

Unfortunately I went the other way on the fork, even though I think all of you are correct on going with the triple crown. None of you chimed in fast enough since I already jumped the gun and bought a single crown two days ago.

I ended up getting a rock shox brand for $379 so I could use my 15mm thru axle wheel already obtained a year ago from another build. Lets hope its enough.

Color Black
Weight 2082g
Brake Usage F/R Front
Fork Rake 40mm
Axle to Crown Length 529mm
Crown Race 30.0
Steerer Tube Length 265mm
Brake Type Disc
Wheel Size 26"
Travel 150mm
Front Hub Spacing 100mm
Front Axle Type 15mm Thru
Spring Dual Position Coil
Wheel Mount Center Offset 0mm
Lockout Crown Mounted
Defined Color Black
S.H.I.S. Clamp Diameter 28.6
Item Name Sektor
Steerer Type Straight


And yes Voltron I think you are correct about soldering versus crimping, but the XT60 and XT90 connectors are solder only if I remember correctly, I cannot see a way to crimp them. If I was using Anderson connectors I would crimp them. Also I run a electrical supply house so I sell almost every one of those crimpers in your pics!

Yes Nutspecial! I love this bike but have a feeling im never going to have a big enough battery. I cannot wait until I can rip up some hills around here that you would normally need an ATV or dirt bike for!

Now about modifying the frame, you are correct. I can alter the shape of the battery pack and get all three to fit in the triangle, it will look a bit off but it would go. Id have to mount one of them above the shock pivot and the other two to the bottom triangle.

Do you honestly think cutting into the tubes just that little bit would make the frame that weak? I feel it would be doable with a tig welder on hand. Aren't most of the forces on the bottom tube on the bottom half of the tube?

 

[skeetab5780]

I just love the look of these tires! Cannot wait for new fork

 

[skeetab5780]

So my Gopro hero3 silver which I bought brand new a few years ago is completely dead for no reason at all. I stored it away for a winter and then it never turned on again. battery was fine but bought a two pack of batteries since they were cheap...Still wont turn on or do anything. tried googling all sorts of fixes for it by holding button and removing the memory card and what have you...nothing worked.

So again I like to try new slightly cheaper generic things...So I bought this. Its probably not the greatest but I needed something to helmet mount so I can get a ride vid

•Captures Full HD (1080p) video at 30 frames per second, HD (720p) video at 60 frames per second and 12MP photos
•8x digital zoom
•Anti-shake
•100° viewing angle
•2" color display
•Built-in microphone
•Save video and photos to the microSD memory card slot (includes 8GB microSD memory card)
•USB port
•Includes waterproof camera case, helmet mount, handlebar/seat post mount, rechargeable lithium-ion battery, USB cable and remote control
•Approx. 2-1/4"W x 1"D x 1-3/4"H; weighs 2.5 oz.

I already have one review who says its a decent cam with good battery life but it is a lot shakier than a Gopro, so hopefully its not the worst thing in the world.

Anyone have experience with this product?

 

[nutnspecial]

I think SamD would be the one to ask about the frame structural integrity/mods. But yes, taking part of the top and down tubes would highly weaken it. Even with rebuild/strengthening you'd have to be careful with AL's finicky nature concerning welding w/o treatment and aging.

I wouldn't worry about the single crown. I'm sure you'll love it and it won't give a problem. You'd have to do some crazy as DH or have alot of weight for single crown to be an issue. I know mine are much cheaper and they work fine even with some mild jumping and rough stuff.
Idk about the camera, there's so many out there and they're all getting better. The big move in smoothness is toward gimbals, without that they all fall kinda short for rough/fast recording.

Also, I think the mention of crimp/solder was for the series connects where the powerpole type conn were useless. Imo just make sure they're tight and remain cool under load, regardless of crimp or solder. If just crimping I'd imagine grease would help connections just like auto 12v and house ac service entrance to the panel. That makes me wonder how they crimp the corp connections from pole to house though.

Btw, where did you find those 24's? I actually found 2 leftover 24" HR on ebay last year that will be my next tyres too, but any knobby 24's DH style are harder and harder to find!

I'd work the batteries around the top tube near headstem. Protected and mounted with some modded hard plastic boxes and wrapped with something for cosmetics. Could be done in triangle too and the lower cog would be nice, but harder to pull off, and harder possibly for similar cosmetics.

 

[drew12345]

Yeah, never seen anyone take a chunk out of frame. I doubt it's safe. Like nut said, put one of the bats somewhere like the top tube. Seen plenty of people do that and then build enclosure around frame or just wrap it which is quick way to hide the bats and wiring.

You can find 24 inch tires as unicycle stores.

I think cheap video is better than no video but I'm sure people disagree with that. But like u said technologies is so much better so can't be that bad. Might even be good.

 

[skeetab5780]

Ya I bought my 24" HR on EBAY also 2 pack deal free shipping but it was almost a year ago! I like this tire so far its a good mix between street and packed trail does them both pretty good.

What do you guys think about my motor having a false positive hall combination? I remember I had one on my BHT and it drove fine but it was a little loud...and it was actually faster compared to when I found the correct combination.

I feel like it is drawing too much power, the only way I can check this right now is with a multimeter with a 10a limit wires in series with the battery. I don't imagine the no load current(wheel off the ground) will be more than 5 or 7 amps?

So I think im going to check it and see what it comes up with.

 

[nutnspecial]

I don't remember checking mine when I had the CA installed, so I just did the same with a MM.
~5a for my bht setup, while spinning up the wheel to about 30mph. I'm thinking they will noticibly perform badly and/or be hot if it's the wrong combo. Iirc your bht performed pretty bad with false combo?

 

[skeetab5780]

well the BHT just had bad startup torque with false hall combo so kinda bad but once it got running it was over 40 mph but not efficient at all.

This motor seems to have insane startup torque, but I feel its eating my batteries alive. Going by that example I guess it is correct combo?

I haven't had a chance to throw MM in series yet

 

[nutnspecial]

Well, 50a can be alot for those if you draw that often. Less usable capacity with more sag?

Well, I'd still test with the MM unloaded, and maybe you could also calcuate out a specific ride at wot. It should be around 2kw @ wot on flat for that gearing. As far as drains from launching, 50a is 50a- part of the fun! As a reference, I'm thinking you should be able to reach ~30mph in < 4sec?

 

[skeetab5780]

Ya its pretty fast but im just guessing as of now. It performs as you would expect and technically this controller peaks at over 100amps on startup. Im just amazed at how quick it kills these multistars! I rode less than a mile doing lots of wheelies/hard starts and they were down to 3.7 my jaw dropped

 

[nutnspecial]

Via CA I always averaged just under 1mi/ah even at the worst efficiency (with my 25c packs). Maybe if I was really hard on it and kept the speed under 50%, I could half that (.5mi/ah), but I never noticed it on any single charge or metering. And I'm pretty sure my controller was drawing more at >80a battery and 200a phase.

When I set the controller amps, the peak draw doesn't exceed 110% of that. Phase amps set separately. Could the 100a you mentioned be the phase setting?

Maybe the lower draw 10c batteries sag too much, though you should still get an accurate ah reading at resting voltage.
Maybe that motor is worse in efficiency, or it really is a false positive phase/hall setup, or the controller has poor efficiency, but for any/all of those three, that's a hellof alot of extra energy to use in heat!
I'd do a max beating test to confirm just how hard you can draw down the battery with a specific amount of draws/distance/speed, and do another one just running along wot, then compare. Check all aspects for excessive heat.

 

[skeetab5780]

Via CA I always averaged just under 1mi/ah even at the worst efficiency (with my 25c packs). Maybe if I was really hard on it and kept the speed under 50%, I could half that (.5mi/ah), but I never noticed it on any single charge or metering. And I'm pretty sure my controller was drawing more at >80a battery and 200a phase.

When I set the controller amps, the peak draw doesn't exceed 110% of that. Phase amps set separately. Could the 100a you mentioned be the phase setting?

Maybe the lower draw 10c batteries sag too much, though you should still get an accurate ah reading at resting voltage.
Maybe that motor is worse in efficiency, or it really is a false positive phase/hall setup, or the controller has poor efficiency, but for any/all of those three, that's a hellof alot of extra energy to use in heat!
I'd do a max beating test to confirm just how hard you can draw down the battery with a specific amount of draws/distance/speed, and do another one just running along wot, then compare. Check all aspects for excessive heat.

Controller spec sheet says this so I figured it peaks over 100a phase
•Motor Current Limit, 10 seconds boost: 130A.
•Motor Current Limit, continuous: 55A.
•Max Battery Current: Configurable.


Hah this sounds like fun i've never even gotten to full throttle yet! Last test ride my LVC buzzer stopped me. I don't notice the motor even getting a little warm but I haven't gone more than 2 miles at a time so far. With the performance I see it has to be the correct wiring combo you would think, but idk

I want to do one test just trying to baby it and see how many miles I can achieve. it should be around 12-15miles I would guess/want

and then one test riding WOT whole time probably 5-6miles

 

[skeetab5780]

This iswag camera is kind of cool, it comes with this handy remote control wrist band that you can start and stop video with and also take pictures and shut the camera off remotely. Back color screen seems pretty awful but its better than a gopro with no screen at all! Now for the real test, lets see if it records 1080 30 frames reasonably...

 

[drew12345]

Something is not right. You should be getting way more than 2 miles. When I had false combo, it ran hot really fast. It was louder than should be also. The other thing with my readings being off on my CA was my shunt value was incorrect. Not sure if this helps.

 

[skeetab5780]

Right now its all speculation. We just got two feet of snow so itll be a few days or weeks until i get a max range test ride with the new batteries. Nothing in the system runs hot at all. Ive just noticed how fast the batts were draining when ripping around testing the power, lets hope its not too bad on effecieny

 

[skeetab5780]

Got my Shimano 180mm rotor in the mail! Now if my darn fork would just show up...(stomps foot)

 

[skeetab5780]

Forks finally came in! I think the snow delayed FedEx more than once this last week. I had an overnite not come in and a 1 state away fedex package take 1 extra day.

I quickly opened them up, cut the steerer to size and slapped them on the bike. I knew this was going to happen...but I bought them anyway. They raised my front end up quite a bit more than I wanted. Now its going to want to flip over even quicker! I may end up putting a 26" tire in the rear later down the road if its a problem. Probably the quickest fix

I like the look and feel of them. I cannot compress them all the way while jumping on the handlebars with my weight, so its an improvement so far!

 

[Overclocker]

nice fork! i also got a Sektor on one of my bikes. Gold RL dual-position coil 150mm 26er. it's basically a Revelation w/ a bit less sophisticated damper which is perfect for my needs. the dual-position feature is perfect for super-steep climbing

 

[skeetab5780]

Weird I had to sort of make a bracket to get my disc caliper to bolt on, ended up drilling out an old side mount disc adaptor and it worked perfectly. Yes I am using linear cable disc brakes for now...im shopping hydraulic but have not bought anything yet. My other bike the FUTR beta has Shimano hydraulics that were only $60 and they are pretty nice! So I may get another set. Ended up having to use my rear brake cable also since my old front was too short for this fork. I have another rear cable for whenever I tackle the rear brake assembly...soon!

The only bracket I had this size was red, oh well

 

[SlowCo]

Images in your last post are not showing for me?

 

[skeetab5780]

Ya they just disappeared for me too, not sure what google pictures is up too this is getting pretty annoying...

~So just my thought for the day. I've been working on both my Genesis build and my EVG Edge build and I find it funny that I can easily lift my genesis compared to the giant hub motor and EVG frame weight. I need a scale but its almost twice as heavy if I had to guess. A world of difference

 

[SlowCo]

Now showing fine. Very nice progress!

 

[skeetab5780]

The pictures seem to come and go as they please...they didn't show up last 4 times I checked, then I went to post a reply and now they show up again.

Not sure if this is a google photos problem or forum problem now

EDIT: wake up this morning and pics are gone yet again, this is the 5th time I've copy pasted the stupid links over...
EDIT: today I cannot see them on my PC but they show up on my iphone...

 

[skeetab5780]

Do you guys think I can strap my bike into my truck similar to how you would a dirt bike? Is it bad for my forks?

Should I lock them out and then strap it down?

Or compress the suspension like you would a moto?

I hate laying my bike down in the bed of the truck and it slides all over unless you drive slow

 

[skeetab5780]

Ok so I decided after a short ride today that it was time for rear brakes...Its just a pain not having them IMO

So I used some 1/8" aluminum stock and ended up having to double it together to 1/4" and it gave me a perfect offset to get my caliper in line with my rotor. Only took about an hour with a drill and a hacksaw and a file. Good enough for me, I used an old linear actuated cable disc caliper since that's all I had kicking around that would work and has good pads