E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

[Cowardlyduck]

Hey Joe,

The 5000A acceleration setting is buried in the control settings I think. It's called acceleration limit from memory. I'll try and take a photo if I remember, but I'm sure you'll find it if you look long enough.

Brian and I had a great ride on our LMX 64's on the weekend and there are definitely some noticeable differences between our bikes with one of them being mine accelerates harder off the line, lifting the front a bit, but then tapers off around 35-40kph, where as Brian's pulls hard for longer all the way up to 50kph.
Part of the reason for this I think is I limited my field weakening to 30A so when it hits the natural 40kph top speed there is a power drop. I did this deliberately to keep it more efficient, but the trade off is a loss of top end torque.

I will second what Joe said about the pulley flange. Mine is also quite worn and had worn into the old aluminium pulley to the point I forgot they were separate pieces and thought they were one piece when I pulled it off.

Cheers

 

[bzhwindtalker]

[youtube]KtvezmFPJLI[/youtube]

 

[TorEddy]

Congratulations with completing the homologated version of the LMX64. Well done!!
Looks to me like you are enjoying test riding your bikes in this beautiful terrain

I love to see how this bike is evolving and hopefully soon will reach its full potential.
It seems like the bike is handling very good in respect to both the belt drive and new controller.
It would be nice to hear more about how this new controller compares to the Nucular.
Does the PAS riding feels better? Is throttle response better? How is the delay when start/stop, is there any change in top speed or toque, etc.
I hope when you are finished testing the belt drive, that you will offer a combo kit containing the belt drive and new controller at a reasonable price for the early adopters of the LMX64.
I would love to keep my bike up to date with the latest upgrades!

 

[Joe]

Hey Joe,

The 5000A acceleration setting is buried in the control settings I think. It's called acceleration limit from memory. I'll try and take a photo if I remember, but I'm sure you'll find it if you look long enough.

Brian and I had a great ride on our LMX 64's on the weekend and there are definitely some noticeable differences between our bikes with one of them being mine accelerates harder off the line, lifting the front a bit, but then tapers off around 35-40kph, where as Brian's pulls hard for longer all the way up to 50kph.
Part of the reason for this I think is I limited my field weakening to 30A so when it hits the natural 40kph top speed there is a power drop. I did this deliberately to keep it more efficient, but the trade off is a loss of top end torque.

I will second what Joe said about the pulley flange. Mine is also quite worn and had worn into the old aluminium pulley to the point I forgot they were separate pieces and thought they were one piece when I pulled it off.

Cheers

Hi CD
In advance mode I find these settings. Not sure where you see this 5000A.

Acceleration lim 20000ERPM/s
Deaccelleration lim 5000ERPM/s

I also have 30A in the field weakening setting, this I haven‘t changed.
Field weakening = 0 30A

What are Brian‘s settings?

Also I change my PAS filter = 2khz This now seems to work for me perfectly.
PAS timeout = 0.02
PAS max out = 50%

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Great stuff Adam, thanks for the Vlog. I was a little worried Covid might make it hard for LMX, but it sounds like the opposite is happening. Glad you have so many orders!

Hi CD
In advance mode I find these settings. Not sure where you see this 5000A.

Acceleration lim 20000ERPM/s
Deaccelleration lim 5000ERPM/s

I also have 30A in the field weakening setting, this I haven‘t changed.
Field weakening = 0 30A

What are Brian‘s settings?

Also I change my PAS filter = 2khz This now seems to work for me perfectly.
PAS timeout = 0.02
PAS max out = 50%

The Acceleration lim is what you want. That's what I changed to 5000A, which is the max.

Brian has the new controller, which is far less configurable. No idea on his settings, but for the most part it just works and works well.
I still prefer the Nucular since I really like to tinker and mostly use throttle anyway, so I'm not too worried about it's non-optimal PAS implementation.

On another note, it was interesting to hear what you had to say about tire pressures Adam. I've been playing around with this lately and found that 15PSI is good front and rear. I manage to do that due to running Cushcore inserts...which I need since the way I ride is really not forgiving on the rims, just ask Brian.
I have been having to run a tube up front though as I ruined the side wall of my front tire with mutliple failed tubeless install attempts. Had a puncture on the ride with Brian on the weekend, and it took a long time before I even realised what was up due to the Cushcore. The only downside with the Cushcore is it's impossible to change a tube out on a ride, so we had to dump C02 into to keep it going.

Cheers

 

[bzhwindtalker]

Thanks for the feed-back,
We have some cushcore on order too for a customer in the US, never installed that on one of our bikes yet, what is your experiance with those?
Best regards Adam

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Thanks for the feed-back,
We have some cushcore on order too for a customer in the US, never installed that on one of our bikes yet, what is your experiance with those?
Best regards Adam

Well, they are awesome and do work, but getting them installed is very hard.
I followed the instructions exactly, but even still it was very physically difficult to stretch them onto the rim.
Even harder is installing the tire, especially if it's new and you are trying not to damage the rim.
Even harder still is removing the tire. I've given up trying to do it gently by hand and now just throw it in a vice and compress the whole sidewall in order to get some metal tire levers in for starting the removal of the tire.

All that being said, if the tubeless setup works well, then you have no need to remove the tire after it's installed so a huge pain once in a while to change the tire isn't so bad. My problem is just that I haven't had a good working tubeless setup...at least on my front tire/rim.

Overall though, I do think the Cushcore is worth the added expense and I'm looking to get some for my other bikes also. See how you go, but I would not think it's worth the time/effort to install them for customers after my experience. Maybe with some practice it would be easier though.

Cheers

 

[Simonten]

Hi All

I have the new controller. I am being sent a new coms cable because there has been a slight issue with the controller going to sleep. You can be riding along and then when you stop pedaling for a little while and then start pedaling again the motor will not start up again instantly. This does not happen all the time and usually doing a little throttle will be enough to wake it up

But when it does work as intended it is so smooth, my dad has a Turbo Levo and i prefer the torque sensing on my LMX, it comes on instantly and stops instantly, what i prefer even more is the way it comes on in response to more or less torque from pressure on the peddles I was suprised how good it was after reading about the nuclear controller.

This being my first ever bike build I have run into a few hiccoughs along the way and there were some parts damaged in delivery, Adam has been really good to deal with and has sent parts out straight away. I feel ounce i get the new controller cabling that this bike will be awesome. In terms of comparison, I liken my dads bike to a refined European car, The LMX is like a Nitroed Monster Truck, Yes the Leveo is lighter and slightly better balanced, The LMX has miles more power it is not even in the same league, it has I feel, better torque handling and while the LMX is heaver, it is so planted down hill and stable in the Air. Its not as poppy as other bikes, But a little bit of tweaking of the suspension can help in that department.

The Noise I used to think was pretty loud but my father says in the bush its not loud and certainly not offensive to other riders, I usually ride on mode 2 or 3, mode 4 where I ride is just not needed and is complete over kill. I thought I would not like the throttle but I actually like it for down hill, if I am coming to a Jump at the end of a few hours riding and im feeling tired I can give it a little bit of juice to launch it into the air. I must say again it is very stable in the air which I really like.

I wanted a bike that allowed me to enjoy going up hill, because with out a motor going up hill just plain sux for me. I enjoy mountain biking for down hill im not much in to cross country or technical climbing. The LMX, for me, makes up hill easier than i could have imagined, I never had to break going up hill, now up hill is fun and I have more energy for going down hill.

 

[jimmywazer]

Hey, I'm new to this forum and don't know how to add pictures... but my LMX64 rear swingarm cracked (broke) and I had to order a new swingarm... has anyone else experienced a frame crack on the 64 or am I the first one?
Cheers.

 

[bzhwindtalker]

As far as we know, It is the only one in over 90 64bikes out in the field. It was one of our prototype frames, built almost one year before we got the first 64h out, and before we got the serial production aluminium tubes, the tubes forming processus and actual alloy are different. I think the bike also has been ridden quite hard since you got it . The replacement swingarm will be much stronger.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I know I have an early frame...have the same red sprocket cover. I assume mine and the other early adopters have the updated frame from serial production, not the same prototype style as this?

Cheers

 

[jimmywazer]

Thanks Adam that's nice to hear! And yes I have ridden it quite hard uphill and downhill... (check my videos on instagram @jimmywazer) I ordered the new swingarm + a new 219 chain yesterday. For me the LMX64 is still the best bike ever built - the perfect balance between uphill and downhill (power wise and handling/weight wise) I mostly use it like a hard enduro bike - mostly only using throttle on technical uphill (pedaling when it's not that technical), and downhill it rides like a really stable freeride/dh bike you can go hard on... I plan to support LMX for many years on and am happy to be welcomed on this forum
Cheers!

 

[Joe]

Great stuff Adam, thanks for the Vlog. I was a little worried Covid might make it hard for LMX, but it sounds like the opposite is happening. Glad you have so many orders!

Hi CD
In advance mode I find these settings. Not sure where you see this 5000A.

Acceleration lim 20000ERPM/s
Deaccelleration lim 5000ERPM/s

I also have 30A in the field weakening setting, this I haven‘t changed.
Field weakening = 0 30A

What are Brian‘s settings?

Also I change my PAS filter = 2khz This now seems to work for me perfectly.
PAS timeout = 0.02
PAS max out = 50%

The Acceleration lim is what you want. That's what I changed to 5000A, which is the max.

Brian has the new controller, which is far less configurable. No idea on his settings, but for the most part it just works and works well.
I still prefer the Nucular since I really like to tinker and mostly use throttle anyway, so I'm not too worried about it's non-optimal PAS implementation.

On another note, it was interesting to hear what you had to say about tire pressures Adam. I've been playing around with this lately and found that 15PSI is good front and rear. I manage to do that due to running Cushcore inserts...which I need since the way I ride is really not forgiving on the rims, just ask Brian.
I have been having to run a tube up front though as I ruined the side wall of my front tire with mutliple failed tubeless install attempts. Had a puncture on the ride with Brian on the weekend, and it took a long time before I even realised what was up due to the Cushcore. The only downside with the Cushcore is it's impossible to change a tube out on a ride, so we had to dump C02 into to keep it going.

Cheers

Hi CD
My setting is 20000 erpm/s so I don’t get your 5000A setting. I’m sure we’re talking about another setting!
Maybe you can post a pic for me.

I run my tyres at 0.8 bar about 8psi. Really soft.
At 1.5bar 15psi I find the ride too hard.

This LMX is so much fun that I’m selling my Husky.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Here you go Joe,

Turns out it's under control modes, not motor settings like I thought.

I'm not 100% sure how much effect it has, but it does seem to pull harder off the line after changing this.

Cheers

 

[benjamin84]

The change in the sound levels with that belt is amazing! I had initially decided against this bike due to the high pitched noise from the chain, but now it suddenly becomes an interesting option for something closer to a regular ped-elec in look and feel than my Qulbix which I'm currently running with just footpegs as I find it too powerful to even bother pedaling on :lol:

When will this be available to purchase with the belt drive mounted?

And a noob-question - is the throttle a full twist grip, half twist or thumb throttle?

Edit: Another question while I'm at it - I've seen some pictures of the bike with an extra battery below the frame. Is this hooked up to the bike, or is it simply spare storage so you can swap once the first battery is drained? Seems like a better design than bringing a spare in my backpack in any case.

 

[courcheval]

I can answer to two questions.

Got Adam on the phone last week and my lmx64h should come with the belt drive for an additional cost in two weeks since the team is happy with how the system behaves now (no warranty on how long till replacement tho but he assured the belt was easy to replace). I tried the belted version one and a half month ago and it convinced me to invest, as like you, i was warned about the chain drive fairly high noise emision.

The attachment for the second battery is just a convenient way to hold it, you still need to swap it and plug it in.

 

[benjamin84]

Thanks

Can any owners comment on the ride quality of the stock suspension? The Marzocchi upgrades on the DH version look tempting but costly...

 

[jimmywazer]

I got the RST Stitch 180mm fork and i must say it's a little stiff... good for jumps, bad for small bump sensitivity... I'm thinking of upgrading to a dual crown fork for better sensitivity and stability. hope this helps on your decision

 

[benjamin84]

Thanks

Currently figuring out what to do with my two wheeled collection. Sold my KTM 690 Enduro, seems that e-bikes have ruined me and I now find petrol bikes crude and loud So I will be keeping my Qulbix Q140MD as a light-motorbike for hooning around on my field, and either get an LMX64 or a Haibike Flyon of some kind for those forest trails where I expect to be carrying the bike over certain obstacles which happens more than I thought it would in our area :lol:

The Haibike Flyon and LMX64 actually compare quite well on certain specs, especially weight and price. It is tempting to get something with a full local warranty, but the service from Adam here on the forums seems pretty good. I also have a feeling I will get annoyed with the road legal limitations of the Flyon pretty quickly, and the integrated battery is looooong and challenging to bring a spare.

 

[Joe]

I know I have an early frame...have the same red sprocket cover. I assume mine and the other early adopters have the updated frame from serial production, not the same prototype style as this?

Cheers

HI CD, Yes we have the newer design, Q1 2019. We got the ones with the new better, stronger tubes.
Thanks for the setting. I‘m gonna try this too. I checked on Nucular tech site and they say.

Current change speed
Three parameters that determine the rate of current change (smoothness). The higher the value, the faster the current will increase in the motor.
For conventional brake levers, it is useful to reduce the parameter - braking for smoother activation of regenerative braking.
If the response to the throttle seems too slow, you need to increase the parameter - acceleration.
The - shutdown parameter determines how quickly the current drops after throttle and brakes are released

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Thanks Joe. Glad to know I shouldn't have the same frame issue.

I thought the shut-down rate was only on powering off, so set it low. Seems I was mistaken and this might explain the lag I feel when letting off the throttle or pedalling. That might also help in relation to the other cek setting if I set the shutdown lower.
I still have hope we can get the Nucular 'almost' as good as the Silixicon for PAS...it might just take a lot of tweaking.

Cheers

 

[jimmywazer]

Thanks

Currently figuring out what to do with my two wheeled collection. Sold my KTM 690 Enduro, seems that e-bikes have ruined me and I now find petrol bikes crude and loud So I will be keeping my Qulbix Q140MD as a light-motorbike for hooning around on my field, and either get an LMX64 or a Haibike Flyon of some kind for those forest trails where I expect to be carrying the bike over certain obstacles which happens more than I thought it would in our area :lol:

The Haibike Flyon and LMX64 actually compare quite well on certain specs, especially weight and price. It is tempting to get something with a full local warranty, but the service from Adam here on the forums seems pretty good. I also have a feeling I will get annoyed with the road legal limitations of the Flyon pretty quickly, and the integrated battery is looooong and challenging to bring a spare.

I've tested the Flyon while I was riding my LMX64 on a downhill trail and the LMX actually performed better for me... not to speak of uphill riding the LMX has like 5x more power (if you choose so). so I'd defenitely go with the 64

 

[benjamin84]

I think I've pretty much concluded the same thing, the LMX is just what I'm looking for. A tiny bit concerned about the warranty and reliability, but the LMX guys seem committed to customer service and making a good product Will just order a spare belt and gears just to avoid being stranded :wink:

 

[jimmywazer]

Don't know about warranty since I bought a testbike that doesn't have any, but I think it's 2 years... And Adam is really kind he already hooked me up with a free new pedal arm because mine was the wrong one/defective

 

[courcheval]

I had the same lmx64/flyon dilemna. Being very heavy and living in a ski resort, i need torque more than speed.
I ordered a flyon with a fitted 14 speed rolhoff , willing to avoid the hassles of insurance, helmet, plate etc plus noise level is important to me (wildlife observation) and the lmx had a bad rep regarding noise emisions.

But i got an oportunity to try the lmx equiped with a belt in May and cancelled my flyon order despite the two month delay. Torque and silence were what i expected and the ability to use a throttle to pass obstacles is a real advantage. Two more regional specific reasons convinced me : steet legal registration of the bike in France and proximity of lmx plant (150 km away).

The team can even build tailored bikes off catalogue (they enjoy experimenting new settings). If you need more power and torque for long slow slopes climbing, they can fit a 161 motor and adapted sprokets to climb the Everest :wink: