Golfer-Electric
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2021
- Messages
- 17
Why are the new batteries so much smaller? Is it cell quality? The original battery is a huge beast. It doesn’t have cylinders. It is like pouches put together
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
- Thread starter voicecoils
- Start date
Golfer-Electric
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2021
- Messages
- 17
Those are same grips I put on my wife’s specialized which I built with a Bafang BBS02 motor. I just thought since it’s twist throttle you wouldn’t want that shape for twist. Very comfortable grip. Especially downhill
PRW
100 kW
Golfer-Electric said:
I use a half twist throttle (not a full twist) so the relative motion is very small. The comfort of the grip, which is for a long period, outweighs the slight need to move your hand - and it is easier to hold the throttle steady with a flat grip on half your palm
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I have Ergon grips too, and I like them a lot.
The reason you need a big capacity battery is because of the current demands the motor puts on it. With 18650 cells you need at least 7p, and even then the battery will get a workout.
The reason you need a big capacity battery is because of the current demands the motor puts on it. With 18650 cells you need at least 7p, and even then the battery will get a workout.
Golfer-Electric
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2021
- Messages
- 17
I’ve been thinking of the p part of he battery. I assume 20s but maybe 21s. The parallel part I am not sure.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Golfer-Electric said:
The original 18ah was LiFePo4 chemistry. I now have a 35ah battery made with Sanyo 18650 cells, and it's about the same physical size as the stock 18ah. A 24ah with 18650 is considerably smaller, and lighter.
Golfer-Electric
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2021
- Messages
- 17
Does ergo make a shorter grip?
Golfer-Electric
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2021
- Messages
- 17
Dumb question Ergon does make the shorter grip.
Allex said:
Allex,
The Kelly KLS7218S. Do you happen to know the dimensions?
The overall frame with of the bomber is 106.37mm and the width between the side panels is 133.35mm. When I looked at the Sabvoton its 146 wide but seems like some people have figured out a way to trim the side tabs and get it to fit.. Wanted to see if the kelly was the same.
BTW I for in touch w stealth and they want $585.00 usd for a new Crystalyte 65a controller.. yea...
PRW
100 kW
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32811686999.html controller drawing1abv said:
Allex
100 MW
1abv said:
Ya, dont take the sabvoton it is hidiously big! KLS7218 is the way to go.
cheeko
100 W
I have the 12F Nucular on my Beta Frame its tiny and have had it since release so about 2 years now, Best controller screen is unreal like adapatto but much more features and everything is changable in screen.
12F was enough for me and its tiny and will highly recommend it over any other controller i have had, I used Powervelocity and its much more controllable for throttle
I'm running 105amp battery with Mxus3k and its rock solid
12F was enough for me and its tiny and will highly recommend it over any other controller i have had, I used Powervelocity and its much more controllable for throttle
I'm running 105amp battery with Mxus3k and its rock solid
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I would go with a Kelly KLS7218S because.
1. Allex says it works good
2. QS is recommending it for their motors
3. It's known to be dependable
4. Only cost $179
5. They're readily available
6. And because that's the one I want, and you're going to show me how to install it.
1. Allex says it works good
2. QS is recommending it for their motors
3. It's known to be dependable
4. Only cost $179
5. They're readily available
6. And because that's the one I want, and you're going to show me how to install it.
So if im reading this correctly im on the edge of the 12F and 24F nuke...Is that correct?
My Battery:
Max-160
Continuous-80
Nuke 12:
Battery max~150
Nominal power 5 000W (80V+)
TV yup..... If I can't get my controller up and running again then off to get the kelly. Where are you finding them? Alibaba?
My Battery:
Max-160
Continuous-80
Nuke 12:
Battery max~150
Nominal power 5 000W (80V+)
TV yup..... If I can't get my controller up and running again then off to get the kelly. Where are you finding them? Alibaba?
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
1abv, I think you just buy it off their website.
https://www.kellycontroller.com/controllers/
https://www.kellycontroller.com/controllers/
Allex
100 MW
cheeko said:
Yeah thats the one I have on my personal bike, much wow, best controller I ever had.
Allex
100 MW
1abv said:
You need to take the phase amps in consideration. I think you are right, on the edge between 12 and 24F.
Sure TV, we help you out buddy.
I found this regarding Phase amps... Does this seem correct?
The term battery current can refer to several different things:
Actual battery current - the current you will see in an ampermeter connected to the battery at a given moment when riding.
Rated peak battery current - the maximal current the manufacturer claims that will not instantly fry the hardware.
Rated continuous battery current - the maximal current the manufacturer claims that will not fry the hardware when applied for an extended period.
Battery current limit - the maximal current the controller is allowed to draw from the battery.
The same terms apply for phase current (simply replace "battery" with "motor").
The actual battery current and actual phase current are constantly changing according to riding conditions.
The relationship between actual battery current and actual phase current is not fixed, it is also constantly changing according to riding conditions.
A simplified explanation for the relationship is: Actual battery current = actual phase current X %PWM .
The PWM is effected by motor speed, throttle position and load on the motor.
When at low speeds/high loads/a lot of throttle, the phase current will be much higher than the battery current and when cruising at high speed they will be very close.
If either battery or phase currents exceeds the maximum set in the controller it will reduce current draw accordingly.
For example:
Suppose the controller is set to limit the phase current to to 50 Amps and the battery current to 25 Amps.
If you are running at 25% PWM and the motor is drawing 40 Amps, the actual battery current will be 40 X 25%=10 Amps. No limiting is in effect.
Then a you start climbing a hill. Still running at 25% PWM, the motor now needs to draw 60 Amps. The phase current will be limited 50 amps and the battery current will be 50 X 25% =12.5 Amps.
After the hill you ride at high speed, say %90 PWM. The motor needs 45 Amps which means that the controller will need to draw 45 X %90 = 40.5 Amps from the battery. Since it is limited to draw only 25 battery Amps, the actual phase current will be 28 Amps (25 X %90 = 28).
The term battery current can refer to several different things:
Actual battery current - the current you will see in an ampermeter connected to the battery at a given moment when riding.
Rated peak battery current - the maximal current the manufacturer claims that will not instantly fry the hardware.
Rated continuous battery current - the maximal current the manufacturer claims that will not fry the hardware when applied for an extended period.
Battery current limit - the maximal current the controller is allowed to draw from the battery.
The same terms apply for phase current (simply replace "battery" with "motor").
The actual battery current and actual phase current are constantly changing according to riding conditions.
The relationship between actual battery current and actual phase current is not fixed, it is also constantly changing according to riding conditions.
A simplified explanation for the relationship is: Actual battery current = actual phase current X %PWM .
The PWM is effected by motor speed, throttle position and load on the motor.
When at low speeds/high loads/a lot of throttle, the phase current will be much higher than the battery current and when cruising at high speed they will be very close.
If either battery or phase currents exceeds the maximum set in the controller it will reduce current draw accordingly.
For example:
Suppose the controller is set to limit the phase current to to 50 Amps and the battery current to 25 Amps.
If you are running at 25% PWM and the motor is drawing 40 Amps, the actual battery current will be 40 X 25%=10 Amps. No limiting is in effect.
Then a you start climbing a hill. Still running at 25% PWM, the motor now needs to draw 60 Amps. The phase current will be limited 50 amps and the battery current will be 50 X 25% =12.5 Amps.
After the hill you ride at high speed, say %90 PWM. The motor needs 45 Amps which means that the controller will need to draw 45 X %90 = 40.5 Amps from the battery. Since it is limited to draw only 25 battery Amps, the actual phase current will be 28 Amps (25 X %90 = 28).
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I wonder how phase current can exceed battery current? This is my guess, it doesn't really, but since phase current is split between 3 windings, there's never current to more then one winding at a time. So the battery current might be 50 amps, but phase current could be expressed as 150 amps? If this is all wrong, someone slap me.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
1abv said:
That reads like an egghead big dick contest. I'm sure they know what they're talking about, but I don't. Just gemme spark, gemme fire, gemme what I desire. Hopefully without the fire though.
