E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

So looks like im getting the kelly. What do you all think about the option of getting it filled with silica gel? The material is V-0 rating.
I'm curious because of my off-road riding and vibration...Im not really a controller hacker so Im not sure if I would ever get into it..
What do you all think does it really help?

thanks!
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
1abv said:
I hope you are all happy!!!

I've ordered a KLS-S 72V, 200A..... more to come.

Is this the one? KLS7218S

https://kellycontroller.com/wp-content/uploads/kls-s/KellyKLS-SUserManualV1.10.pdf

I can't wait to find out how you like it. If this works out well I may have to slap one on my bike.

Do you think you'll have to change the throttle?
 
I’m hoping not but I have 2 other throttles I can try..
I’m also hoping I don’t have to swap out the temp sensor I have..
does anyone know the hall sensor angle of the bomber motor? Not the ufo
 
1abv said:
Hey tv can I ask your onyx bud what throttle they are using?
Thx!

It looked a lot like this Wuxing throttle, except it has 2 buttons under it. These are 5v throttles so that makes sense. The Kelly controller wants a 5v throttle I think.

Wuxing-Throttle.jpg
 
This is a custom throttle that some Onyx owners install.

https://evdrives.com/domino-twist-grip-throttle-0-5k-ohm-ip67-rated-dust-waterproof/
 
Allex said:
Got a Kelly KLS7218S installed
Gives me over 100A battery amps and over 200A phase amps to motor with a 35mm wide stator. 5403 on bombers are 43mm (or 42mm) Wider stator gives you more torque.

9CC5E3C3-A456-4045-A575-8D4293E5DB99 (1).jpg

https://www.qsmotor.com/product/kelly-controller-kls7218s/
My old bomber got over 400A phase amps to motor, but you have to have a temp sensor installed to monitor the temp.

If you can get a nucular 12F or 24f - do it! it is a fantastic piece of hardware with great support. Otherwise, kelly is fine But it is a bit of a hassle to connect it to the CA and you need to program it using a PC, did not get it to work with their phone app.

Allex,
You mentioned that connecting to the CA was a hassle? I still have the stock one that came on the bomber.. I emailed with Grin tech about it and the response was :
"You can get it to work but it is not strait foreword. An easy solution would be to get the HV model."

Kelly sent me this diagram..

51082996233_e150879a80_c.jpg


Any ideas?

thanks!
Alex
 
Yeah, I bought this shunt:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Messwiderstand-Shunt-100A-50mV-100mV-Extra-Messausgang/353429524270?hash=item524a0a8f2e:g:Q2oAAOSwfcVUChMK
and then connect it like:
file.php


Here is a picture of mine where I plan to install it:
IMG_1054.jpg

And Here is the pinout:
So on Thr you have:
GND is Black wire on controller labeled 20
5V is Purple wire on controller labeled 4
and so on.
IMG_1065.jpg
 
Allex,
Thanks for the info! Very helpful! I’ve been deciphering it, and now time to go shopping. :) I decided to buy a throttle and thermistor through Kelly. Not really looking forward to pulling the motor apart and replacing the exiting thermistor to install the one that’s comparable w the Kelly. I was hoping that if I got the CAV3 installed that it could read and control the thermal rollback..oh well.
 
NP, make sure to buy potted kelly if you can, it will live longer. Especially if you use the bike in mud and rain.
Also, try to find a shunt that is around 100mV this is because 100mV makes that you need to set 1mOhm in the CA to show the correct power output.
With 50mV in above link you need to set 0,5mOhm and the CA does not let you do that (it only goes as low as 0,7)So you have to switch to high power in CA and in this case CA will show your power in kW only and not in Watts like before.

Mind you, the Kelly initially comes with pretty lame acceleration, even if you set the phase to max.
If you want to have more punch, change these to values as in the picture:
Torque Speed Kp
Torque Speed Ki
Speed Err Limit
If numbers is even higher it will ramp up acceleration more aggressively
 

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They should be shipping out the goodies today. They say shipping is 7 days.. Do you have to isolate the shunt? what I mean by that is it ok to 2 sided tape it to the frame? or does it need to be somehow covered so other wires don't touch it?..
Also on your diagram the section that I've outlined in red confuses me a bit. Do I need a fuse? I remember you added one to your bomber when you built yours. A circuit breaker I think.... Also im not sure what the main contactor, diode, and percentage resistor are doing. Were they part of the stock bomber as well?

Please excuse my ignorance when it comes to electrical circuits. I can wire the shit out of a lightbulb though!!!

51088827568_7d7593a86d_o.png
 
Saw this on the auction site (no affiliation) - still waiting on mine being built.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=stealth+p7+bike&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=sivn&sxsrf=ALeKk03tasaWsIEB1nhoP80_KECPOcTWTw:1617353328218&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjd8-nUlt_vAhWW9nMBHTI1C9AQ_AUoAnoECAIQAg&biw=375&bih=553&dpr=2#imgrc=vLhPNdnpOmQRAM
 
Found this shunt... 100A 100mV Copper DC Shunt will this work? here is a link..

https://www.amazon.com/BestTong-Anti-Rust-Electric-Resistors-Resistance/dp/B07FK1LY8L/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=100+amp+shunt&qid=1617354962&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVFhPQUsyQVQyMEpBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODU1MDQyMkVCVEVIUzE3SlRURiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjg4Mjc1OEozT0VFVkNLNDhBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
 
Shunt will work fine. Just a bit bulky because of the black base that is made for mounting it onto chassis.
diode, contactor, precharge and fuse, non of these are used in the stealth bikes, so you can skip them.
But a fuse on the positive is a nice to have feature, safety wise.
Listen to these three video guides on kelly setup
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_si4IfU5so
 
Allex said:
Shunt will work fine. Just a bit bulky because of the black base that is made for mounting it onto chassis.
diode, contactor, precharge and fuse, non of these are used in the stealth bikes, so you can skip them.
But a fuse on the positive is a nice to have feature, safety wise.
Listen to these three video guides on kelly setup
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_si4IfU5so

Man, setting up the controller seems pretty intimidating.
 
Allex,
Thanks for the link and the info...
TV totally feel ya.. diving head first into the unknown. :shock:

Ill post my progress as the goodies arrive. I have to prep my motor for the new thermistor... glad I just didn't put it back together to test out the "fixed" OG controller a few days ago or anything...... that would suck for me to open it back up all over again.... arrgh...
 
Hi team,
I'm new here too, i'm really interested in the bomber vs fighter discussion. Is the fighter also like really powerful ?
does it handle better being a bit lighter and can it range further.
I am concerned about only having 2 gears though compared to 9 on the bomber.
Thank you in advance for any opinions/advice.
Kezza.
 
Bomber is way more powerful than the Fighter. You get more range with the Bomber if run at bicycle speeds.

Fastjelle,

A QS 205 V3 motor will wake your bike up! 3.5, 4 or 5 turn and order a Nucular controller...... https://nucular.tech/ and you’ll hit hyper speeds!

Great find. Read up on maintenance for the V-box just in case.

Tom
(moderator note: posts this was a reply to are moved here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996
because that poster decided to create a whole new thread for the same thing instead of continuing with those already helping him here).
 
Rule 1....
Never ask a bomber owner which bike they would rather get.... :shock:

Rule 2 there can never been enough power....

I've ridden both and it depends. I do off-road and range is a big issue so bomber... Weight is the only drawback with the bomber...
Either one will be great and you can mod both of them to get more power and range... The big questions is Range and speed vs weight. I went bomber because for me the power/ range outweighed the weight difference.
 
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