E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Theodore Voltaire]

Yesterday I got to go riding with a fun bunch of hooligans on eSk8s, One Wheels, and there was an Onyx, and a Sur Ron. Talking with the Onyx owner, he mentions to me that it was a heavy bike. I already knew they weighed 170 lb from reading on their website, but knowing that doesn't prepare you for how shockingly heavy it feels to lift it off the side stand. It's hard to tell by looking, but there's a lot of heavy frame, and battery all high up near the top of the bike. It makes the bike feel like a solid brick from bottom to top. I don't even think my old Honda 90, which weighed 212 lbs felt as heavy. My Bomber weighs 121 lb, but lifting it off the side stand it feels lighter than it is. When I let him lift my bike off the stand he said, wow that bike does feel light, that's probably why they cost so much. He said it, not me.

After learning this about an Onyx, I can tell you right now I wouldn't want one. A Bomber with the kind of power an Onyx has would be a way superior bike.

I also learned enough about a Sur Ron to know it's not for me either. Weigh wise it feels a lot lighter than an Onyx. It's weigh feels similar to my bike, but it has several big turn offs for me. For one thing, it looks like a tiny little shrunken midget dirt bike. You know how sensitive I am to bike looks. The next thing I don't care for is it's a mid drive. After a lifetime of dealing with drive chains, and drive line complexity, no thanks. Plus it even has a belt primary. But the real killer is, when you give it the gas it sounds more annoying than an electric can opener.

Considering that Onyx, and Sur Ron are two of the most successful eBikes of all time, and I don't care for either one of them, you're never going to hear me complain about anything on my Bomber ever again.

 

[Trelos]

Talkin of build it yourself here is my Carbon TPR spec B52made in Area 51 South Australia... lol..
full carbon fibre frame running a
-PowerVelocity 200 amp controller
-Crystalyte X5402 motor [not pictured]
- Lipo powered 117 volts
This frame was 2 years in the making and is an absolute dream to ride !

 

[Rix]

I find that kind of trivia interesting Rix, that's for sharing. My bike runs great for my type of riding, but of course more acceleration is always better, except maybe on litespeed's bike Every bike ever made is a collection of compromises that will suit one rider better than another. That's why there never will be one perfect bike for everyone, and what drives us all to customize our bikes for our own personal tastes, and needs.

The truth man.

 

[Rix]

Mine can 175A, but I will only use around 100A with my riding style.

That's not surprising considering it's you Allex, but I'm talking about anyone else lol
[/quote]

My 20S14P Sony VTC6 battery that I built in 2018 have been delivering 150A almost every day I ride my Bomber. In the following months, after a very looong waiting I might start pulling 200A with Nuc 24F
[/quote]

I’m here to tell you that the Nuc 24F is life changing. I went from a maxed out MaxE to a Nuc at 3/4 power and I find my bike scary again. I’m running a 205 V3 3.5T at 250 battery & 406 phase amps off of a 20s15p 30Q pack......it’s just outright amazing. Peaking at 17,000 KW stuffed in to that motor. I still have another 100 phase amps to go! Just hit 68 mph but chickened out going faster but definitely had way more! The front wheel is hard to keep down for about 15 mph to 30 mph......2 stroke on the pipe kinda hit!!! After a pretty hard 20 plus miles on an hour ride the motor and the controller were only warm. Huge shout out to Sketch again for lengthening my ride times!
[/quote]

I missed this earlier, DAMN!!! Impressive!

 

[Rix]

Talkin of build it yourself here is my Carbon TPR spec B52made in Area 51 South Australia... lol..
full carbon fibre frame running a
-PowerVelocity 200 amp controller
-Crystalyte X5402 motor [not pictured]
- Lipo powered 117 volts
This frame was 2 years in the making and is an absolute dream to ride !

DAMN!! Thats next level stuff there. Do you have a build thread? Impressive to say the least.

 

[kereama]

Fighter F-37 riders, any out there?

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Fighter F-37 riders, any out there?

Being a Stealth owner is a lonely endeavor.

 

[Trelos]

Talkin of build it yourself here is my Carbon TPR spec B52made in Area 51 South Australia... lol..
full carbon fibre frame running a
-PowerVelocity 200 amp controller
-Crystalyte X5402 motor [not pictured]
- Lipo powered 117 volts
This frame was 2 years in the making and is an absolute dream to ride !

DAMN!! Thats next level stuff there. Do you have a build thread? Impressive to say the least.

Thanks Rix, No I don't have a build thread I've sort of kept it quiet .

 

[bigbore]

litespeed, what issues did you have fitting the QS205 to your stock swingarm?

The main issue is that you don't have spacers that centers the motor in the swingarm so I designed and ordered at a local toolshop these parts:

The other big issue I think are the motor nuts that will unscrew when you use regen.
Here you can read more about that.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62650&start=225#p1165502

 

[Rix]

Fighter F-37 riders, any out there?

I used to be. Whats on your mind?

 

[1abv]

Shunt will work fine. Just a bit bulky because of the black base that is made for mounting it onto chassis.
diode, contactor, precharge and fuse, non of these are used in the stealth bikes, so you can skip them.
But a fuse on the positive is a nice to have feature, safety wise.
Listen to these three video guides on kelly setup
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_si4IfU5so

So I've been scouring the universe for info on setting up the Kelly. I went back to your thread about the Adaptto Bomber you made where you used an apartment/house breaker so you don't need a precharger..ok I have 2 questions

1. How did you determine what size / capacity breaker to use? Also is there an issue with using an AC breaker for DC?
2. I noticed in the wiring for the c-ylte controller that the wire gauge for the on off switch is quite large compared to the halls, temp etc.. and is there a reason for that?

Thanks!

 

[1abv]

On another note does anyone have a original clyte controller off the bomber? while im figuring out this one it would be great to be able to ride...
thanks!

 

[Rix]

On another note does anyone have a original clyte controller off the bomber? while im figuring out this one it would be great to be able to ride...
thanks!

I got one, I could unplug from the Bomber and send to you. Wouldn't be able to do that until this weekend. PM me if interested.

 

[Allex]

Shunt will work fine. Just a bit bulky because of the black base that is made for mounting it onto chassis.
diode, contactor, precharge and fuse, non of these are used in the stealth bikes, so you can skip them.
But a fuse on the positive is a nice to have feature, safety wise.
Listen to these three video guides on kelly setup
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_si4IfU5so

So I've been scouring the universe for info on setting up the Kelly. I went back to your thread about the Adaptto Bomber you made where you used an apartment/house breaker so you don't need a precharger..ok I have 2 questions

1. How did you determine what size / capacity breaker to use? Also is there an issue with using an AC breaker for DC?
2. I noticed in the wiring for the c-ylte controller that the wire gauge for the on off switch is quite large compared to the halls, temp etc.. and is there a reason for that?

Thanks!

The thickness is good for robustness, thats that.
C-rating on the breaker - you take you battery max amps and devide it by 5, this rating would suffice when choosing the breaker.
So if you have a battery that can do 100Amps a C25 would do fine.

 

[1abv]

On another note does anyone have a original clyte controller off the bomber? while im figuring out this one it would be great to be able to ride...
thanks!

I got one, I could unplug from the Bomber and send to you. Wouldn't be able to do that until this weekend. PM me if interested.

Thanks! I will hit you up!

 

[1abv]

Status Update.. on my dip into insanity... (please remind me why im doing this???_)
-Kelly come with ring terminals for battery and phase.. I've swapped those out w xt150 connectors.
-Kelly comes with gigantic massive huge Fing hugemungous connectors for everything else so swapped out the throttle and halls with JST's, extended the wires from the motor for the halls to go through the frame..

Todo:
Extend the battery and phase wires.
Attach a circuit breaker or fuse to the positive.
Extend the 5v from the controller to the existing key switch and add an inline fuse... tap into the main positive
swap out the temp sensor in the motor for one that the Kelly can read... UGH...not looking forward to that bit....

Test out and get the programming going for the controller..

add the shunt and wire it up to the cav...

In short this is a shit load of work... The people at Kelly are great at answering questions. I wished I knew all of the parts i needed before ordering so I could get them all at once. but there ya go.....

I was initially going to run the phase wires inside the frame but im debating because of heat and also ease of removal.

an additional bonus to doing all of this is that I can see the state of the wires and repair anything if necessary.

 

[Rix]

Status Update.. on my dip into insanity... (please remind me why im doing this???_)
-Kelly come with ring terminals for battery and phase.. I've swapped those out w xt150 connectors.
-Kelly comes with gigantic massive huge Fing hugemungous connectors for everything else so swapped out the throttle and halls with JST's, extended the wires from the motor for the halls to go through the frame..

Todo:
Extend the battery and phase wires.
Attach a circuit breaker or fuse to the positive.
Extend the 5v from the controller to the existing key switch and add an inline fuse... tap into the main positive
swap out the temp sensor in the motor for one that the Kelly can read... UGH...not looking forward to that bit....

Test out and get the programming going for the controller..

add the shunt and wire it up to the cav...

In short this is a shit load of work... The people at Kelly are great at answering questions. I wished I knew all of the parts i needed before ordering so I could get them all at once. but there ya go.....

I was initially going to run the phase wires inside the frame but im debating because of heat and also ease of removal.

an additional bonus to doing all of this is that I can see the state of the wires and repair anything if necessary.

running phase wires internally sure make it look clean, but less service friendly in the process. I know it would cost a lot to ship, but if you ship your motor and throttle to Kelly, they will set that up with the controller for a very nominal fee.

 

[White Knight]

Talkin of build it yourself here is my Carbon TPR spec B52made in Area 51 South Australia... lol..
full carbon fibre frame running a
-PowerVelocity 200 amp controller
-Crystalyte X5402 motor [not pictured]
- Lipo powered 117 volts
This frame was 2 years in the making and is an absolute dream to ride !

Hey Trelos,

You got the carbon frame done, well done mate looks impressive. What does it weigh in at out of curiosity. Catch up for a ride sometime, Lindsay.

 

[1abv]

Status Update.. on my dip into insanity... (please remind me why im doing this???_)
-Kelly come with ring terminals for battery and phase.. I've swapped those out w xt150 connectors.
-Kelly comes with gigantic massive huge Fing hugemungous connectors for everything else so swapped out the throttle and halls with JST's, extended the wires from the motor for the halls to go through the frame..

Todo:
Extend the battery and phase wires.
Attach a circuit breaker or fuse to the positive.
Extend the 5v from the controller to the existing key switch and add an inline fuse... tap into the main positive
swap out the temp sensor in the motor for one that the Kelly can read... UGH...not looking forward to that bit....

Test out and get the programming going for the controller..

add the shunt and wire it up to the cav...

In short this is a shit load of work... The people at Kelly are great at answering questions. I wished I knew all of the parts i needed before ordering so I could get them all at once. but there ya go.....

I was initially going to run the phase wires inside the frame but im debating because of heat and also ease of removal.

an additional bonus to doing all of this is that I can see the state of the wires and repair anything if necessary.

running phase wires internally sure make it look clean, but less service friendly in the process. I know it would cost a lot to ship, but if you ship your motor and throttle to Kelly, they will set that up with the controller for a very nominal fee.

Wow I didn't know that... Too bad they don't have a US presence... It would be great to have it set up...

 

[Trelos]

Talkin of build it yourself here is my Carbon TPR spec B52made in Area 51 South Australia... lol..
full carbon fibre frame running a
-PowerVelocity 200 amp controller
-Crystalyte X5402 motor [not pictured]
- Lipo powered 117 volts
This frame was 2 years in the making and is an absolute dream to ride !

Hey Trelos,

You got the carbon frame done, well done mate looks impressive. What does it weigh in at out of curiosity. Catch up for a ride sometime, Lindsay.

Hey man
Yea got it done finally!
It came in at 1492gm
Yes a ride or race up the Linear with the lads we went with last time would be good
speak soon.

 

[1abv]

Nice frame man! looks like there is a spare in the BG or you could make a quad!!

On another note I chatted with my battery manufacture regarding what size fuse to use. Which is Con-Fuse-Ing (see what I did there??)
So the battery as I have posted before is rated for 80a continuous and 160 burst. It has 10 AWG wire coming out of it.
They recommended a 50a fuse for it.
The controller looks like it has 8awg battery and phase wires. They recommended putting a 100ah fuse on it. That the 200 burst rating on the controller is on the phase side.

Im guessing that I should lean toward the battery recommendation of 50a but I still don't get how a battery that is rated for 80a uses a 50a fuse.... and why it would have 10awg wire.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

I don't know why you need a fuse 1abv. The controller already acts like a fuse and will lock out the battery circuit if there's a short.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

As an objet d'art a carbon frame is very high up the list of show offiy, but that's about all you get. The stock frame is already a marvel of low mass, so there's not really that much potential for weight saving from the frame alone. My diet plan has a greater possibility for lowering overall weight.

 

[Tats]

My p7r is boxed and ready to ship, so I’m starting to plan out rear rack options. I really like my Thule pack n pedal tour rack and it’s been absolutely flawless in operation on my demo with 14s7p battery one side and spares/clothes for work in the other.

But...I think the rear arms on it will be too short to get down to the swingarm (they’re roughly 13 inches by eye) and would likely foul the chain due to the shape anyway. So I’m thinking of how to add a higher round mount at an angle that the rack can attach too - making a pseudo top arm of a rear triangle. An easy option is to get halves of gate hinges for this and to attach them to the outside swing arm using square U bolts. They’ve got a round top and can be found in stainless. I don’t want to drill a new swingarm. The thickness of the u bolt is hopefully less than the chain clearance when in the smallest rear gear.

Can anyone tell me the height top to bottom for the swingarm next to the rear caliper bolt so I can plan out measurements and parts? This would be around the farthest and smallest u bolt.

 

[pizza YES?]

Can anyone tell me the height top to bottom for the swingarm next to the rear caliper bolt so I can plan out measurements and parts? This would be around the farthest and smallest u bolt.

Long time reader, first time poster.

I own a P-7R and can measure anywhere you'd like if you just point it out specifically on this pic (I think I got the right spot?)