E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

I've had several people ask me if my bike is a Sur Ron. It doesn't bother me, I kind of like it better that no one has any idea what it is. I've now had the opportunity to ride with a Sur ron, and an Onyx, both on the same ride. I'll take my bike over either of them. If I was buying a new bike tomorrow, and these were the three choices, I'd still buy a Stealth. Sur Ron, and Onyx both have major problems for me that a Stealth doesn't have.

Sur Ron looks like a stinky little dirt bike, and no pedals. Plus I don't want the complexity, and maintenance of a mid drive. Not anymore.

The only thing Onyx really has going for it is power. Besides that it has a ho hum top heavy frame design, with ancient suspension technology. The dimensions look funny to me. The little 17" wheels look too small, which makes the seat height look too tall, and wheelbase look to short.

I wasn't all that wild about the way my bike looked when new, and I said so back then, but it wasn't that difficult to to turn it into the exotic race horse it is now. With the suspension, and styling changes I've made, it's my favorite bike of all time.
 
Allex thanks for the advice using a clamp... And yea your right when your dealing with exotics the general public wont know a Lambo from a Pagani..

T.V. if you do have the stock settings just as an idiot check that would be great. I haven't really messed w my CA but just in case that would be fantastic.

I think that if I was riding primarily on road I would have no gripes at all with the stealth power, brakes, suspension in fact one of these days it would be fun to take it to a track! I used to race tz125's and a little bike like ours with gummies on it would be bad ass...
. Just when you ride pretty hard offroad the rear suspension is a compromise. Even after having custom springs made, revalving, modding the piston, adjusting nitrogen levels.... im really hoping that the racetech shock that im having built will solve this.

I'm also gonna try the starcross soft and see if the sidewall is a bit softer than the bridgestone to help with the ride. currently I run 12psi and I have never gotten a pinch flat or any flat since I installed dirtbike tires. even in the most jarring of rock hits that toss the rear end a bit sideways nuthin... all in the name of plushness...
 
This is stock ca settings 1abv

Throt in 0.00v
Throt out 0.49-3.99v
Speed lim 199 mph
Power lim 60 amp
PLim>A Gain 150
PLim>Max Power 4900w
PLim>W Gain 50 Gain
PasSensor 8pd Pas off
TRQ Sensor 4.94v Disable
Temp Sensor 4.98v Disable
AUX Pot 4.99v 99% Amp
Calibration 1.39 uf
 
1abv said:
I think im going to do some tests at different states of discharge and see what kinda output im getting.. I owe a correction, I checked and im at 3750w still not sure why its low. I do know that on a local twisty road im faster than a speeding harley!

Windy road adjacent:

51181915028_7df19dae70.jpg

So, that controller you got from me probably has different Shunt and Rshunt values that need to be changed in the CA. Does if feel like full power normal even though you are only showing 3750w of peak power?
 
differences in mine:

Throt out 0.49-4.99v I don't ever remember changing this ill try your settings

Power lim 65 amp I have adjusted this back to 60

PLim>Max Power 5500w I have adjusted this back to 4900


Temp Sensor 3.58v (I have installed a temp sensor which is working fine)

Calibration 1.30 uf for sure I've never touched this.
 
Rix,
Since before your controller I’ve noticed that the top speed was down a little bit from the original battery.
About 5mph

As far as initial punch not really sure
Do you or TV have the stick shunt numbers?
Thx!
 
1abv said:
Rix,
Since before your controller I’ve noticed that the top speed was down a little bit from the original battery.
About 5mph

As far as initial punch not really sure
Do you or TV have the stick shunt numbers?
Thx!

I think I gave you everything except the tire dimensions, and battery chemistry setting.
 
I have friends with both a Sur Ron and an onyx. I just purchased a f37. I like the weight of this bike and the ability to pedal over the other two. It arrives in 9 days. How’s the acceleration on the f37 compared to these two bikes?

Theodore Voltaire said:
I've had several people ask me if my bike is a Sur Ron. It doesn't bother me, I kind of like it better that no one has any idea what it is. I've now had the opportunity to ride with a Sur ron, and an Onyx, both on the same ride. I'll take my bike over either of them. If I was buying a new bike tomorrow, and these were the three choices, I'd still buy a Stealth. Sur Ron, and Onyx both have major problems for me that a Stealth doesn't have.

Sur Ron looks like a stinky little dirt bike, and no pedals. Plus I don't want the complexity, and maintenance of a mid drive. Not anymore.

The only thing Onyx really has going for it is power. Besides that it has a ho hum top heavy frame design, with ancient suspension technology. The dimensions look funny to me. The little 17" wheels look too small, which makes the seat height look too tall, and wheelbase look to short.

I wasn't all that wild about the way my bike looked when new, and I said so back then, but it wasn't that difficult to to turn it into the exotic race horse it is now. With the suspension, and styling changes I've made, it's my favorite bike of all time.
 
So from the research I've been doing Rshut values differ from bike to bike.
From what im seeing the CA carries its own settings. Which means that the CA wouldn't change because I swapped controllers and the Rshut value should stay to what I had it at which may be the issue with swapping controllers.
next thing...If the shut is part of the controller would swapping the battery necessitate a change in the Rshut value? Seems like it wouldn't.. either way im getting a clamp meter today and seeing what gives. I will try loading the motor via braking as well.
 
1abv said:
So from the research I've been doing Rshut values differ from bike to bike.
From what im seeing the CA carries its own settings. Which means that the CA wouldn't change because I swapped controllers and the Rshut value should stay to what I had it at which may be the issue with swapping controllers.
next thing...If the shut is part of the controller would swapping the battery necessitate a change in the Rshut value? Seems like it wouldn't.. either way im getting a clamp meter today and seeing what gives. I will try loading the motor via braking as well.

I'm thinking is if it's not one of the values I gave you, it can't be adjusted.

When I changed my battery the only changes I made to the ca was the battery chemistry, and the ah setting. I think all that did was change the calibration of the power meter, and probably had no effect on performance.
 
Cozen89 said:
I have friends with both a Sur Ron and an onyx. I just purchased a f37. I like the weight of this bike and the ability to pedal over the other two. It arrives in 9 days. How’s the acceleration on the f37 compared to these two bikes?

Off road I don't think your bike will be very competitive against a Sur Ron, but an Onyx might be the worst off road bike ever made, so depending on how challenging the terrain, you'd probably do alright compared to one of those. On the street they both have almost twice the power you have so don't waste your time trying to race one, but as far as just riding around having fun your bike will be just fine riding with them.
 
Yea when I swapped my battery I didn't touch it and since the shunt is built into the controller changing the controller may affect the Rshunt value, the battery prob does nothing to it.
Its located in the "setup calibration" sub menu it is an adjustable setting, mine is currently at 1.300 mOhm
 
1abv said:
Yea when I swapped my battery I didn't touch it and since the shunt is built into the controller changing the controller may affect the Rshunt value, the battery prob does nothing to it.
Its located in the "setup calibration" sub menu it is an adjustable setting, mine is currently at 1.300 mOhm

So changing this Rshunt value up or down, what effect does that have?
 
If im wrong everyone please chime in. It drives the CA readings off the controller. So with an incorrect calibration your ca values can be off. Specifically the output of the controller. Some fellas have added solder to the shunt to fool the controller into reading lower values so it can output more power.

Again calling all geniuses if im wrong feel free to strike me down where I stand. take a look at this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmqcrQeXuN4&ab_channel=HolmesHobbiesHolmesHobbies
 
I like that video 1abv.

So on my bike the shunt resistor setting in the ca is 1.39 uf, but yours is 1.30 uf? Is that what the calibration 1.39 uf means?

What would happen if I changed the setting to 1.30 uf, or 1.45 uf ?

My deviant mind thinks one way it might make more bottom end, but which way?
 
I don't think that would give you any more power because the shunt is only talking to the CA and not boosting the controller. Seems to me the only way to boost power with the stock controller is to do a shunt mod I did look up at one point what our fets are but F if i know what the specs mean..... the rabbit hole is dark and huge..

As usual check with the geniuses im learning about all this because of that kelly controller. It's really shining a huge light on everything I don't know which is a ton about electricity esp. DC

I was actually feeling pretty good about my knowledge about wiring for houses etc installing breakers, running new lines etc...... until I got that kelly controller........Hey this whole dc thing cant be that complicated right? uhhhhhh
 
I think it tells the CA how to read info from the controller. kinda like if you set a multimeter to AC vs DC or different miliamp settings. I don't think changing that value would get you any good results. All its doing is getting a correctly calibrated shunt value. If you have incorrect readings from the shunt I think it could screw up your settings including throttle settings.

Since the CA can't add functionality to the controller it can only limit (ex if you put in 100ah in the CA you wont get anything more out of it since the controller is the limiting factor at 65ah) I doubt it would get you free horsepower.
 
ok so im testing the shunt and I want to make sure that im doing this correctly.
here is a pic.
51193369890_7b09e5e100.jpg

I have the throttle pinned and the bike is on a stand.

would I take the reading off the clamp meter 5.86 and multiply that by the voltage 81.0 to get the watts?
which would be 474.66

then tweak the Rshunt value until I get them close?
Or is the voltage reading on the CA off beacuse of the shunt?

Im also going to try and post this in a non stealth specific forum and see if I can get more answers.
 
So ive adjusted the CA to read in amps. what im noticing is the clamp meter seems a bit more accurate than the CA. The CA seems to sample in bigger time chunks than the clamp meter
take a look at this vid. This is as close as I got it so far. it still varies some but sometimes the clamp meter is reading higher than the CA, sometimes lower and sometimes exactly on point.
im guessing this is close enough.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlKAQ0LTIwU&ab_channel=hookbutcher

BTW TV can you send me a link to your pack? I know you have already posted this somewhere but yeeaaaaa....
Wanted to see the difference in output....
 
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