E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Is it worth it to jump to bigger rotor? depends on how much you weigh, how you ride and if the current ones do not inspire confidence.

Heres my take.
Calipers: This is the top mod you can make. Going from MT5 to saints was night and day. at least 40-50% better. Pad wear and stopping power are in a different league. I would go through several sets of pads like 4-5 a year with the Maguras. Now, maybe 1 set a year w the saints. (I ride almost everyday and my descents range from 6,400 to 3,500 ft.) The stopping power on the saints are bananas. I did a bunch of research at the time when I bought them on top downhill racers and no one was using Maguras. It was all Formulas, Saints and 1 or 2 Avids.

Also the lever adjustment is so much better in the saints. I could never get the Maguras where I wanted them. People have done some crazy hacky DIY mods to the Maguras to make them better buy DIY mods and brakes are not my bag.

Pads: since going w saints I've tried a few different pads and the stock ones (H03C) work the best. best feel and stopping power and fade resistance.
Truckaroo pads: very good pads just don't have the same feel as the saints. overall maybe 5-10% less compared to the saints but 1/2 the price. I wont ever use them for the front but I do use them for the back.

Rotors: I've used the Ice tech sandwich and Ice tech solid steel floating rotors along side the Magura solid non floating rotors... They are all about the same. get a quality brand and the difference is negligible. maybe 3-5% better

Oversized rotors: They are great and defiantly help fade but the difference is there but it isn't that much maybe 10-15%.

Ide say, if you haven't already... Save your cash and buy a better set of calipers. The stock calipers may be good for a bike but are underpowered for a 110 pound 50mph e-bike. In reality our bikes should come stock w moto rims and light weight moto suspension and brakes.

For the majority of riding I do im fine with my current set up. There are 1 or 2 crazy fast downhills (like 45 mph) with cross ruts big rocks etc that I would like more stopping power for.
 
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I think the picture says it all.
 
Greetings once again.

So finally set aside some time to sit down for some poking and prodding and a brain scratcher.
Bike boots up fine and every other function works, throttle however still dead. Electronics wise, beyond checking and cleaning connections I have to hand it over to a professional. Things I noticed going over the bike again:

- On the controller PCB peeling/corrosion? (Brown spot).
- Lots of general corrosion which I plan to clean with isopropyl alcohol (Correct?)

VID 1
All cables disconnected. Battery removed. Pedals fine, no resistance.
[youtube]ygaMPCDoKxU[/youtube]

VID 2
All cables connected. Battery removed. Pedals WITH resistance every 2nd (Hall sensor frocked?) Make it make sense.
[youtube]8z1KWPrKlxA[/youtube]


Also had a couple of opinions from sparkies saying the soldering job is pretty bogey. Could anyone post the back of their controller for quick comparison? Thanks.

Reagards, the underwater stealth.
 

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Couple more images of the controller PCB.

I got a response from stealthelectric and they've ID'd the issue as a blown MOSFET the "Lumpy" pedal was the tell. Which they have also offered to receive for repair/replacement.
 

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1abv said:
Billy,
First that sucks having to push ye old bomber. I too have been down that road a few times. There was this park by my house that had the crazy plants that left prickers on the ground that looked like little roofing nails. I would always find a few in my tire after a ride. A couple of times they went in so far they popped the tube. sux..

After many different attempts to modify the tire/ rim combo I switched to moto. Now when I get a flat I can ride it out of anything.
I noticed a very very slight difference in handling when I went to moto but well worth it. I use regular moto tubes. I never went w HD moto tubes. Maybe some other peeps here did?

Im sure you cleaned everything before installing the new tire/ tube combo and the pressure was normal.. So the only things I can think of are:

Do any of the spoke heads poke through the rim possibly puncturing the tube?
Is there a crack or deformation on the rim?

Either way I would go moto. I feel that the bikes should come standard w at least a rear moto rim if not both front and rear. Tires last wayyyyyy longer like years vs months and the weight difference is well worth it and you can run lower pressures. The tire selection is greater as well.

With rear bike tire.. that I had for less than 1 year Multiple flats..
W moto rim that I've had since around 2014 maybe 2 or 3 flats. all were ridden back to the truck.

I found an old post of mine about this:


The holmes hobbies 19" x 1.6" wheel : 3lbs

The stock 24" wheel: 1.8 lbs

The stock Duro, MC HD tube, and MR. tuffy strip: 6.6 lbs

Vee Rubber VRM021, IRC regular tube, Rim strip 7.6 lbs

Totals:
Stock w MC tube etc: 8.4 lbs
MC 19": 10.6 lbs

Diff 2.2 LBS
Technically it's probably a touch less because I didn't weigh the rim strip of the stock and also I know some people run slime in their MC tubes as well. Ok Ok fine... I didn't weight the spokes... but you get the idea.


Did a search about moto wheels and tires so I’m digging up this old post. I may be looking to change over to motos on my f37. Can you share where you got your wheels from and would you still say it’s well worth it?
 
I got the rims from Holmes hobbies. I think I got the spokes through them as well if not it was buchanans
Totally worth it. The bomber should have come with them stock. The f37 is a lighter bike so not sure about that. If you ride off-road it’s a no brainer. Flats suck and moto tires last forever. The weight difference is totally worth it
 
1abv said:
I got the rims from Holmes hobbies. I think I got the spokes through them as well if not it was buchanans
Totally worth it. The bomber should have come with them stock. The f37 is a lighter bike so not sure about that. If you ride off-road it’s a no brainer. Flats suck and moto tires last forever. The weight difference is totally worth it

I ride light trails pretty often, nothing too crazy yet, but I also live in the city where there’s broken glass and major potholes everywhere. What size did you go with? I think 19” moto rims is roughly equally to 25.4” so maybe 18” will be closer to our 24” bicycle tires?
 
Cozen89 said:
1abv said:
I got the rims from Holmes hobbies. I think I got the spokes through them as well if not it was buchanans
Totally worth it. The bomber should have come with them stock. The f37 is a lighter bike so not sure about that. If you ride off-road it’s a no brainer. Flats suck and moto tires last forever. The weight difference is totally worth it

I ride light trails pretty often, nothing too crazy yet, but I also live in the city where there’s broken glass and major potholes everywhere. What size did you go with? I think 19” moto rims is roughly equally to 25.4” so maybe 18” will be closer to our 24” bicycle tires?

The duro razorbacks are 25.5" inflated to 30 PSI. The 19x1.40 Prowheel racing rim and a 2.75-19 tire will be really close, just a hair smaller. I ran 17, 18, and 19" x 1.40 MC rims on both the Bomber and Fighter. All were better flat protection options then t he heaviest duty bike tires available. https://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-front-rim-1-40-x-19-black/ If you go back randomly between pages 150 and 350, you can see pics of my bikes with the motor rim conversions.
 
Rix said:
Cozen89 said:
1abv said:
I got the rims from Holmes hobbies. I think I got the spokes through them as well if not it was buchanans
Totally worth it. The bomber should have come with them stock. The f37 is a lighter bike so not sure about that. If you ride off-road it’s a no brainer. Flats suck and moto tires last forever. The weight difference is totally worth it

I ride light trails pretty often, nothing too crazy yet, but I also live in the city where there’s broken glass and major potholes everywhere. What size did you go with? I think 19” moto rims is roughly equally to 25.4” so maybe 18” will be closer to our 24” bicycle tires?

The duro razorbacks are 25.5" inflated to 30 PSI. The 19x1.40 Prowheel racing rim and a 2.75-19 tire will be really close, just a hair smaller. I ran 17, 18, and 19" x 1.40 MC rims on both the Bomber and Fighter. All were better flat protection options then t he heaviest duty bike tires available. https://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-front-rim-1-40-x-19-black/ If you go back randomly between pages 150 and 350, you can see pics of my bikes with the motor rim conversions.

Thanks for the link. I’m a noob when it comes to swapping out these wheels. Of the 19/18/17” rims, which size did you like the most on the f37? And which tires did you run?

Also what gauge spokes did you use for the f37? I imagine the bomber would need thicker than the f37

And lastly, which size rim do you think has the most tire selection? Seems like the 24” off road bicycle tires are going the way of the dinosaur.
 
1abv said:
51628400321_2647b0c209_c.jpg


If I were to do it again I would go 18" more torque...

I'm guessing you're trailering your bike to these locations and riding out? Otherwise you're living in the middle of some cool places ey.

Like the B-52 is a cool and fun lil thing but batteries are gonna be a bottleneck for a while.
 
1abv said:
51628400321_2647b0c209_c.jpg


If I were to do it again I would go 18" more torque...

Stealth in Australia just recommended that I go 19x2.15” moto rims. Does that sound too wide to you? That’s a big increase from 1.4” width
 
I got to give a update on my 2 year, old cheap ass chinese, 35ah, 72v battery. I rate this battery 2 tits up. It could be the best battery I've ever had. After riding the crap out of it for 2 hot summers, I'm now starting the third hot summer. I can't tell there's been any noticable degrading from new.

I had my doubts when new bcause right out of the box it never would hold 84v for very long. Hot off the charger it would drop to about 83.5v in 30 minutes,and I felt like the factory had to turn the charger up to make it that good. Early on I adjusted the charger down to the point where afer a 1/2 hour off the charger it usually falls to around 83.2v where it sits for over a week static. It also isn't really 35 ah. Using Sanyo's numbers it's only 34 ah on paper. In the real world I'd say it's closer to about 32 or 33 ah and after 30ah you're moving pretty slow to keep off the LVC. At first I thought this might mean this battery was bum, but it's won me over. 30 good ah is still like heaven, with a few more emergency ah to get me home. I hardy ever need to run it out that far though. I only have about a 25 ah butt.

Forget about the stock battery, it was from the dark ages back in 2013, so I forgive them.
This battery compared to the 24 ah one is fair game though. When the 24 ah was starting to poop out at about 21 ah, this battery is still 50 mph capable. This battery is still running strong beyond 25 ah. If you're thinking about getting a 24 ah battery, don't, and get a 35 ah instead, you'll be glad you did.
 
A battery at full charge for a week is not healthy for the battery.
72v fully charged is 84v, and at 83v thats 4.15v per cell, where 4.00v overnight or 3.50-3.80v is fine for long term storage.
That is a weird characteristic of dropping 0.50v in 30 minutes, makes ya wonder if a group or cell is dragging it down, to the weak level.


I missed what your wheel is, is it 19" rear hub and the front size?

1abv said:

If I were to do it again I would go 18" more torque...
[/quote]
 
Yup its a 19" the front is still stock.. That will change once I run out of Duros

51629255790_c9407e8df8_c.jpg
 
Cozen89 said:
Rix said:
I got the rims from Holmes hobbies. I think I got the spokes through them as well if not it was buchanans
Totally worth it. The bomber should have come with them stock. The f37 is a lighter bike so not sure about that. If you ride off-road it’s a no brainer. Flats suck and moto tires last forever. The weight difference is totally worth it

I ride light trails pretty often, nothing too crazy yet, but I also live in the city where there’s broken glass and major potholes everywhere. What size did you go with? I think 19” moto rims is roughly equally to 25.4” so maybe 18” will be closer to our 24” bicycle tires?
]

The duro razorbacks are 25.5" inflated to 30 PSI. The 19x1.40 Prowheel racing rim and a 2.75-19 tire will be really close, just a hair smaller. I ran 17, 18, and 19" x 1.40 MC rims on both the Bomber and Fighter. All were better flat protection options then t he heaviest duty bike tires available. https://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-front-rim-1-40-x-19-black/ If you go back randomly between pages 150 and 350, you can see pics of my bikes with the motor rim conversions.


Thanks for the link. I’m a noob when it comes to swapping out these wheels. Of the 19/18/17” rims, which size did you like the most on the f37? And which tires did you run?

Also what gauge spokes did you use for the f37? I imagine the bomber would need thicker than the f37

And lastly, which size rim do you think has the most tire selection? Seems like the 24” off road bicycle tires are going the way of the dinosaur.

So here are some pics, the top is the fighter with a 17 x1.40" rim on a TC3065. The next is the Bomber with an 18x1.85 and 19x1.40 on the front. The next is the Fighter with a an 18x1.40 on a H480, then the bottom is the Bomber with a 19x1,40 next to the Fighter with the 18x1.40 in the truck. All that said. Cant go wrong with any size rim. Tire selections as far as small motorcycle tires goes, if you want knobby selection, the 19x1,40 is king as there are so many knobby tires available in the 2.75-19 or 70/100-19 tires. If you want more moped size road tire friendly selections, the 17 and 18 have more out there. Being that I am a HUGE fan of the SR241, they make 2.75-3.00 x17, 2.75-3.00 x18, and 2.75-19, anyone of these rims is a viable option for that tire. Hope this answers your question.
 

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Rix,
For your front wheel, 19x1.40, did you use the stock hub? Or a different bicycle hub? Did you need to get a wheel with the correct amount of holes or did you just not use some of the holes?

Thanks!
Alex
 
Thanks for the pics and info.

The wheels stealth has available to me at 19” x 50mm which comes out to about 1.97 inches. If I go moto I might just try it as they will come already drilled and the front already laced. I’ll just have to find someone to lace the rear for me.

Only thing holding me back is I like the speed/acceleration of the bike now and I’m worried it will take too large of a hit. I’ve also had the idea brewing in my head to just build a qulbix 76 frame with a mid drive motor.



Rix said:
Cozen89 said:
Rix said:
I got the rims from Holmes hobbies. I think I got the spokes through them as well if not it was buchanans
Totally worth it. The bomber should have come with them stock. The f37 is a lighter bike so not sure about that. If you ride off-road it’s a no brainer. Flats suck and moto tires last forever. The weight difference is totally worth it

I ride light trails pretty often, nothing too crazy yet, but I also live in the city where there’s broken glass and major potholes everywhere. What size did you go with? I think 19” moto rims is roughly equally to 25.4” so maybe 18” will be closer to our 24” bicycle tires?
]

The duro razorbacks are 25.5" inflated to 30 PSI. The 19x1.40 Prowheel racing rim and a 2.75-19 tire will be really close, just a hair smaller. I ran 17, 18, and 19" x 1.40 MC rims on both the Bomber and Fighter. All were better flat protection options then t he heaviest duty bike tires available. https://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-front-rim-1-40-x-19-black/ If you go back randomly between pages 150 and 350, you can see pics of my bikes with the motor rim conversions.


Thanks for the link. I’m a noob when it comes to swapping out these wheels. Of the 19/18/17” rims, which size did you like the most on the f37? And which tires did you run?

Also what gauge spokes did you use for the f37? I imagine the bomber would need thicker than the f37

And lastly, which size rim do you think has the most tire selection? Seems like the 24” off road bicycle tires are going the way of the dinosaur.

So here are some pics, the top is the fighter with a 17 x1.40" rim on a TC3065. The next is the Bomber with an 18x1.85 and 19x1.40 on the front. The next is the Fighter with a an 18x1.40 on a H480, then the bottom is the Bomber with a 19x1,40 next to the Fighter with the 18x1.40 in the truck. All that said. Cant go wrong with any size rim. Tire selections as far as small motorcycle tires goes, if you want knobby selection, the 19x1,40 is king as there are so many knobby tires available in the 2.75-19 or 70/100-19 tires. If you want more moped size road tire friendly selections, the 17 and 18 have more out there. Being that I am a HUGE fan of the SR241, they make 2.75-3.00 x17, 2.75-3.00 x18, and 2.75-19, anyone of these rims is a viable option for that tire. Hope this answers your question.
 
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