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i decided to tackle the regen button this afternoon, only took 5 mins, when i removed the e bike brakes which came on the bike, the wires for the switches were soldered into the controller wiring so i just cut them and taped up leaving a couple of inches of wire incase i ever re fitted switches, so simply traced the horn plug and made a connection with the wiring, all works perfect! Then sanded off the Horn Logo and re lacquered the button, and made an 'R' sticker for above the switch!

now all i need to do is adjust the controller and raise the voltage setting for the regen! did you notice what voltage you battery got to before regen started working on the brake levers?
 
What a touch that the brake fitted without dismantling and re-bleeding!
Thats the great thing about these forums. Now i'm confident to buy my new brakes! think i'm gonna go with the hope brakes too tech 3. 2 pot though not the 4 pot. in black, but going to add the anodised red adjusting screws.

As for the regen, i dont think there is a cut off ? if there is, its not very much. i was at 83 volts the other day and noticed that the regen braking sent my volts up downhill. I can check for you when the weather is good enough to actually ride it lol. i do get a strange pulsing on regen tho ? i also noticed that the regen was set-up on the rear brake, but i changed the brakes around so my regen is currently on my front brake. This needs changing.

clever idea swapping the wires. like the R logo too. top work!

What you going to do about the speed drive ? its a minefield of gear ratios. I noticed with the ATS speed drive you have to mill out the frame to accomodate it. the milling tool is like another $200!
 
quadfather said:
What a touch that the brake fitted without dismantling and re-bleeding!
Thats the great thing about these forums. Now i'm confident to buy my new brakes! think i'm gonna go with the hope brakes too tech 3. 2 pot though not the 4 pot. in black, but going to add the anodised red adjusting screws.

As for the regen, i dont think there is a cut off ? if there is, its not very much. i was at 83 volts the other day and noticed that the regen braking sent my volts up downhill. I can check for you when the weather is good enough to actually ride it lol. i do get a strange pulsing on regen tho ? i also noticed that the regen was set-up on the rear brake, but i changed the brakes around so my regen is currently on my front brake. This needs changing.

clever idea swapping the wires. like the R logo too. top work!

What you going to do about the speed drive ? its a minefield of gear ratios. I noticed with the ATS speed drive you have to mill out the frame to accomodate it. the milling tool is like another $200!

haha i know i saw that! but they do offer a milling tool rental service for £30 for a week i believe, when i read the manual on the ATS website, the milling sounded like a right chore, but after watching a few speed drive installations on youtube, seems very straightforward! still trying to read up as much as possible before committing to it!

well both my brake levers had brake switches which were wired into the same 2 wires on controller, i guess i wont know until i get a test run, but im certain my regen only worked when my battery voltage got below a certain voltage! there is of course a chance our bikes are set up differently seeing as we had different brake set ups etc and they were built a few months apart!
 
cfsmale said:
quadfather said:
Yes correct, im pulling around 50amps.

The cycle analyst is set unrestricted to 99amps so i know theres no problem there.

The battery im sure is capable of more than a 50amp draw. i draw 30 + amps from my 4cell 14.8v lipo packs. but this is a lifepo4 battery and im new to lifepo4.

The BMS could be a possibility but i think not. I personally think that as you say the controller is restricted. Obviously they offer a warranty and they want to keep the electronics/battery safe and operating at a lower capacity. so the question is, how do i get into my controller, check its set at 60amps and then boost it up to 80a ?

ive also read about the shunt ? maybe a setting here could be changed ? but i have no idea on shunts either. i will learn tho, with some help from this forum...... lol

Don't worry about the shunt)) a shunt is only there to measure the Amp draw, it just creates a safe means of measuring a high load, it doesn't restrict current. Think you guys are probably on to it, with the controller, I was suspecting that I too will have to adjust the limits on mine, once it arrives. I am planning on getting maximum out of the bike, which is why I even went for the high rate discharge li-ion. The motor spec shows it can handle up to 120A constant, which is far above what the controller is rated, but that's a problem for later.

The USB cable for the controller seems to be a standard printer cable? Can anyone correct me on it? And are you buying any software with the cable, or are they just using hyperterminal?

At this stage I am expecting my bike to be delivered on Wednesday.. So excitement is building to unbearable levels, like a kid in a candy store..
 
I have this frame also. IT seems ok but the welding around the headtube does not seem very thick. ALso there is visible oxidation on the the steel inside the headtube. The welding seems a little thin in certain areas. The metal around the headtube is quite thin. A video on youtube shows leili ebike factory and they have one of these frames and it has a extra vertical metal bar reinforcement added around the headtube area with different design and looks better than the original design. Im not too sure about the quality of this frame
 
eVelbike said:
Hey, guys, I do not agree with you about Avid bb7 brakes. They are very strong, but they do not work if they are:
1. Not adjusted
2. With zoom rotors
3. With bad brake levers
So I really do recommend you to save money and just replace zoom rotors to Avid.
You will feel the big difference. And do not forget that all brakes work good only after 50-100 km ride and good adjustment.


I see where your coming from, the levers are terrible. but this is a very powerfull bike. like a motorbike. You would never see a motorbike with cable disc brakes.
I have ordered Hope tech3 brakes. I know cfsmale went one step extra and bought the 4 pot hope brakes. I think this bike needs good spec hydraulic brakes.
 
I agree with evelbike and doubt that it will be that big of an upgrade over the BB7's. Are you sure the pads are fully burnished and they are dialed in correctly?

I have each model on different bikes and although I definitely appreciate the feel of hydro brakes, I don't think you will get that much better stopping power over the BB7's. If you are serious about upgrading your brakes and want mini-moto brakes, then get a dual disc fork and hub and go that route! That will definitely move the needle.
 
So I finally received my bike. Had some small issues assembling it, mostly of my own making since I fitted a larger battery and had to modify the battery box, and move the controller, and lengthen battery cables ex. Few small issue's, I ordered a white color and received a black one, not much of a problem and certainly nothing to be done about it, not sending it back to China. Might just order some white side covers to give it some contrast. The break levers as was mentioned earlier in this tread was the wrong way around, so just swoped the cables over. I do agree with Evelbikes, the bb-7 breaks are good, took me 5min to set them up, and was bedding in fine after a short ride, no noises after some hard wearing in. The nice fastners, are fairly useless for the side panels, aluminum is not a good idea, they should consider using stainless or mild steel even. The aluminum can be cross-threaded too easily. And one of the rivnuts had already fallen out befor I even started putting the bike together. That being said, the overall quality of the bike is really good. Even the grade of steel used on simple things like the battery box, I had to modify my box, and had to cut and work the steel, so can say it's hard steel. Had good fun on the first rides, and just getting the feel for it. I will admit I thought it came with the sinewave controller as on the website, but it came with the infineon model, so in the same boat with having to order a programming cable for that. Have some more work to do on the bike this weekend, including making a shroud for the controller to protect it from rocks, fitting some bark busters, axil pegs (mainly to protect the disk breaks, for when I drop it). And then it will go off to the Enduro trails for some proper testing.
 
Good news you recieved you bike, a shame about the problems but as you say, little can be done about it now!

I have read that the bb7s are a solid choice





Get some photos on when you can! :D
 
It is a bit diff. with a car, where you need to have ansurance Inspection and a drivers license. Probably this is why you can have as many HP as you want?
Problems with ebikes without restrictions is that you can still tecnically ride them everywhere and dont need to have the insurance. Also you can drive it without license. What happens if we let all people drive everywhere without knowing the rules and without knowing how realiable their hardware is?
 
Had a great ride today. Thought id share some pictures. Done well over 40 miles and the battery still showing 76volts.

Was riding along the canal for a while, so wasn't exactly flat out.

I thoroughly recommend the chain guide in the pictures below. my chain was coming off almost every ride. hasn't budged since.
Also got my 250w plates :shock:

I have a few bits still on order.....

Carbon fibre handlebars and seatpost.
Hope 4 pot brakes (yes cfsmale, i couldn't help myself lol. mine are black with anodised red adjustment screws and caliper bolts)
Controller usb lead to crank the amps up...


7AEpns.jpg

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7QHi7Q.jpg

GQb4B5.jpg

C8hCqM.jpg

lyvlWs.jpg
 
I had one of those chain guides aswell before i ditched the derailleur and went single speed! Looking good!

I have a similar headlamp to you also!
 
Nice! hows the brakes working ? you missing the brake cut off switches ??

i need that headlight mount!!

link please bud......
 
Im not missing the switches so far, time will tell! And the brakes are awesome, very happy!

Figured my regen is set to start functioning @ 75volts, so ill have to change some settings when the cable comes in!

Link for the carbon light mount .......

I bought two of these as they only come with one mount and i prefer to use 2! took a couple of weeks from china but im sure there will be a few uk sellers too!

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/262051018230


Cheers, craig
 
nice one Craig, my regen works almost straight away. definitely works at 80volts for me. probably just controller settings.

Im waiting for my controller lead, did yours arrive ? if so, what was the amp limit set too ? i'm hoping to crank up the amperage when it arrives....

Did you have any luck with the ats speed drive, if so what size / ratio and chainring you going for ? i cant peddle after about 26mph. i look like the roadrunner.

I did contemplate fitting a 52t chainring, my setup is currently 42t. This will be a lot cheaper than a speed-drive. but bugger running out of battery with a 52t chainring!! :shock: i don't think id be able to peddle it un-assisted.

beep beep
 
Hi Quadfather,
thanks for the pictures!
As for amp limit - you can adjust it without cable, on the cycle analyst.
CA amp limit dominate above controller amp limit.
If your controller is Infineon 18F4110 - 80amp is max, but if the weather is hot - it is better to reduce down to 60-70A.
Amp limit also depends on you motor windings, 4T is safer for controller than 3T (less overheating).
Regular ATS is not compatible with EEB frames, you may order 100mm BB version for it.
There is also one trick for big chainwheel - just add second one (no need to replace 42T).
52T you can mount on outer side of crank and 42T on inner side.
Ride with 52T and change to 42T by hands in emergency case.
But at first - I recommend you to change frewheel to DNP with 11T sprocket, becuase Shimano is too slow with its 13 or even 14T smallest sprocket.
Hope it will be helpful :)
 
Hi eVelbike,

Thanks for that, you know your stuff on these bikes. are you from electric enduro bikes ?

As for amp limit - you can adjust it without cable, on the cycle analyst.
CA amp limit dominate above controller amp limit.
If your controller is Infineon 18F4110 - 80amp is max, but if the weather is hot - it is better to reduce down to 60-70A.
i have set the amp limit to 99 on the cycle analyst but it still pulls the same current :( is this all the amps the 72v lifepo battery can supply ?

Amp limit also depends on you motor windings, 4T is safer for controller than 3T (less overheating).
how do i change this in the cycle analyst ? what is this setting called ?

There is also one trick for big chainwheel - just add second one (no need to replace 42T).
52T you can mount on outer side of crank and 42T on inner side.
Ride with 52T and change to 42T by hands in emergency case.
Brilliant idea! 52t chainwheels are very expensive tho and hard to find with 4 bolt fitting

But at first - I recommend you to change frewheel to DNP with 11T sprocket, becuase Shimano is too slow with its 13 or even 14T smallest sprocket.
again brilliant idea! i have just ordered one from em3ev

Thankyou very much for your help! whilst you are here do you know the correct shunt value for our controllers ? the cycle analyst is set to 1mohm but i think this is wrong ?
 
Hi guy's.

Evel, thanks for the info on 11T freewheel and 52T chainwheel. Can both these be ordered from you? For shipping to New Zealand? I saw the freewheel on your website, but not the chainwheel. Maybe you can provide a package for us, with everything?

Also I have ordered a programming cable for the infineon controller from eeb. There's definitely a few changes I would like to make for current and regen.

Just for interest sake, my cycle analyst set to max amps, and everything setup for max as I can get it. I am currently getting 4200W maximum, with approximately 60A draw, you can feel it being limited around the 60A point. I was testing the limits of what I can get out of the bike, did a 50km ride at max speed. On flat road and fully charged batt I do get 100km/h, but it drops quick and seems to handle 80km/h while on the flats, dropping down to 50-60km/h on really steep hills but handles it well. The bike feels really solid at speed. I have not double checked the speeds with GPS, just taking the cycle analyst's word for it. When your on the bike it doesn't feel that fast, and you only really notice speed when your leaning into a corner.

I do wish for more torque... But that's just my adolescent desire to wheely around. It does go really well for an electric bike. And I am treating it like a dirt bike, so it will be doing single trail tracks, soon.

Things I noticed, controller does get a bit warm when just playing around going slow and using alot of amps. Mine is mounted outside, so the air flow over it sorts that problem when going at a constant pace. The motor got really warm after hammering it for the long ride, was expecting it though. The motor should handle close to 100 deg Celsius at max, it wasn't anywhere close to limits.

As for the range, I have my low voltage cut off at 65V just to be safe and estimate at max draw It will do 55 to 60km, if I ride conservative and less like a hooligan, it should be fairly economical. Note batteries minimum safe voltage is recommended at 60V so if I do get stuck somewhere I can use the last bit in emergency, but won't plan on it. And this is a 33ah batt, not the standard.

I didn't use the regen much, was too busy going as fast as possible. Did however notice that it didn't come on till voltage dropped below 75V.

Quad, the shunt value for the controller is on a label on the top of the box. Opposite end of the wires.

Haven't gotten to any mods yet on my bike, have been too busy playing.

Evel, the infineon controller is rated to a max of 80 amps? Constant, any idea of max phase current? What's the max that you sugest for the motor, supplied by eeb on the 72V stealth bike? I plan on getting as much power out of the bike as possible, when I get the programming cable.

Thanks.
Hope everyone is doing well now that holidays are over and it's all back to work.
 
Looks beautiful Quadfather .. real nice.
When your bike arrived did you have to go pick it up from the port? And was there any extra fees you had to pay when picking it up? tariffs n such?
 
CooperAndromeda said:
Looks beautiful Quadfather .. real nice.
When your bike arrived did you have to go pick it up from the port? And was there any extra fees you had to pay when picking it up? tariffs n such?

Good point! and good question. i should be able to help you and others on this..

My friend is a customs agent here in London. He obviously did all this for me. (anyone in london, pm me and ill pass on his details)

Each product being imported has a certain code. this code/ item type distinguishes how much customs duty there is to pay. the code i used was

8487909090 this code is for miscellaneous electric goods. This code is 1.7% duty

A bike code is 8% duty. hopefully this can save some people some money.

On top of that, i obviously had to pay vat which in the uk is 20% of the purchase price.

I also paid £225 for uk documents, warehouse fee and shipping to my home address. But this was for 2 x bikes.

Hope this helps.

Good luck pal
 
The bike is looking excellent quad, congrats! How complete did the bike come? I seem to remember the option of 'mostly assembled', but imagine shipping convenience and cost would suggest full assembly on receipt as the norm.
Your import costs are very low for two full bikes, compared to my experience with a 1 cubic meter 40kg package. Eeb should consider full FOB shipping (like on aliexpress) so potential buyers don't get surprised by importation costs, which are difficult sometimes to estimate on a 1 by 1 occasion basis. My frame seller eastgem/denzel got up on aliexpress now. They have a good product too I think, but not direct competition for EEB.
 
nutspecial said:
The bike is looking excellent quad, congrats! How complete did the bike come? I seem to remember the option of 'mostly assembled', but imagine shipping convenience and cost would suggest full assembly on receipt as the norm.

Thanks, its even better now, i've fitted the new hope 4 pot hydraulic brakes. and upgraded a few more bits. Next is the crank. The crank on this bike is cheap. its starting to creak already. needs tightening after every ride. Ordering the hope 170's with bb and XTR spider. as i have a brand new/old stock 52t XTR chainwheel

bPgq8T.jpg


The bike was pretty much complete. It didn't come in a wooden box like the website suggests. was cardboard but packed out nicely. Just had to bolt the handlebars to the stem, bolt the front wheel on, and put the pedals on the crank. was pretty well set-up. gears were ok. not much adjustment required. only cable tensioning. the stop screws on derailer were already perfect. all the electronics are pre-set-up switch1 - about 25-30mph switch 2 about 35-40mph switch 3 unlimited. I'm sure the controller is set to max 60amp though. i have the lead coming so will report back on this when i've had a fiddle.

Your import costs are very low for two full bikes, compared to my experience with a 1 cubic meter 40kg package. Eeb should consider full FOB shipping (like on aliexpress) so potential buyers don't get surprised by importation costs, which are difficult sometimes to estimate on a 1 by 1 occasion basis. My frame seller eastgem/denzel got up on aliexpress now. They have a good product too I think, but not direct competition for EEB.

I did have to pay the VAT at 20% that was quite expensive! i think you forgot that bit lol. I think that EEB should look for distributors around the globe tbh rather than trying to sell direct. I am interested in selling there products. but i would definitely like to implement my changes first. i am in talks with them. Anyone in the uk interested hit me up.

Hope this helps ?
 
Sure does. What an awesome ride you're making! Maybe because of a smaller package for me, but sea freight and importing was well over 50% item price for me. It turned out so high that the seller refunded me to what fair market value was for item shipped, after they got on aliexpress.
Yes, cardboard is a big go to, because the importing regulations on wood ends up very much a pita (in us at least).
Yes, the distributor approach is a great idea. I am friends with someone that regularly buys and distributes full containers valued around 30k a container. Interesting stuff.
Kudo's on your first build, it's turning out hella nice!
 
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