I need some help building a battery. I am trying to find the best way to get a 20s10p pack in this triangle. Look at the picture below. The picture is missing a couple of batteries. Overall there should be 200 batteries
adam125r4 said:I need some help building a battery. I am trying to find the best way to get a 20s10p pack in this triangle. Look at the picture below. The picture is missing a couple of batteries. Overall there should be 200 batteries
what i need help with is the best way to lay out the connections so there wont be any hot cells or interconnections.
adam125r4 said:thanks for the info on the battery. i don't have money right now to buy new cells so i will just have to deal with it and once they break ill upgrade to some better cells.
thundercamel said:This was actually my favorite part of designing my batteries. Looks like your frame is very close to 60 degrees between those tubes. Building an enclosure will take up some space, but won't change that 60 degrees. If you're using cell spacers like the ones I used, they at least state a distance of 19.1 mm between cells/center to center. I used that to draw up come circles in SketchUp, which is a free program. Since you're going for all 100 amps, the goal is to maximize the number of parallel connections. One strip of 0.15x8mm nickel according to the chart below can do 4.9 amps, so you'll need two layers for all 10 parallel connections. Using just the nickel for most of the parallel connections though means that there's no getting around having to split some of the groups up, which will require wiring outside of the nickel strips to distribute current between the groups. I've included a picture of one of my batteries to show an example.
Open as a new tab for full resolution:
This was my first idea, to just flip the design around, and remove one row. That yellow group with the question mark could move that cell to either location, depending on how pointy you'd want the top. The black lines represent all of the connections (nickel strips and wires) on one side of the battery, and the white lines are for the other side. The two single white lines at groups 1 and 20 will be the positive and negative terminals.adam125r4 said:thank you soooo much this really helps.
could you change it so that the battery's with the x move over to the left side because there isn't much room on the right side. (i want to add foam and it might get in the way)
Also could you help me out and tell me what gauge wire i need to connect the left and right side batteries
and what would be the best way to lay out the nickle strip on the batterys
thundercamel said:This was my first idea, to just flip the design around, and remove one row. That yellow group with the question mark could move that cell to either location, depending on how pointy you'd want the top. The black lines represent all of the connections (nickel strips and wires) on one side of the battery, and the white lines are for the other side. The two single white lines at groups 1 and 20 will be the positive and negative terminals.adam125r4 said:thank you soooo much this really helps.
could you change it so that the battery's with the x move over to the left side because there isn't much room on the right side. (i want to add foam and it might get in the way)
Also could you help me out and tell me what gauge wire i need to connect the left and right side batteries
and what would be the best way to lay out the nickle strip on the batterys
For bridging one part of the battery to the other in this design, the black wire between groups 13 and 14 and the white wire between groups 16 and 17 need to handle 40 amps each, since there are already 6 pairs of nickel strips in play on each. Two runs of 10 gauge copper should be fine.
The white wire between 14 and 15 and the black wire between 15 and 16 only need to handle 10 amps each, since there are already 9 pairs of nickel strips in play on each. 16 gauge copper wire should be fine.
If you don't mind the battery being even taller, this design would simplify the wiring:
There's just the big connection between groups 15 and 16 represented by that single black line. I'd split that 100 amps up with 4 runs of 10 gauge, or a couple runs of 8 gauge copper. The picture of my battery that I previously shared shows how I like to make my connections from the nickel strips out to copper wires, by soldering between the cells to keep them from getting hot. There are other ways though.