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How do u run a 350w hub at 500 or more watts(anyone who has commented on this thread please read the newest post to gain a better perspective)

If you have the 1800 watt controller at 40amps, then (from your screenshot) you have the 60v version and your 48v battery won’t work. The voltage of the battery must match the voltage rating of the controller
My battery does work and the controller and the display will work all the way down on 24 volts actually.... I can I can rock a single 48.... I just don't get to go very far on it that's why I have this which isn't that much higher it's only right now in like a 52 I don't know how high it will go with how much I have together there
 
My buddy gave me a stock razor and this is what I did with it .the first photo basically the stock razor from when I got it from my buddy I just had the back wheel changed and gut it out all of the brush parts and the batteries switch it over to the lithium and my back wheel & the throttle was some random one I found and that's literally me towing multiple hundred pounds plus me and my dog and that heavy ass frocking old skool razor frame ,then the other two is what it actually looks like as of today....... this thing is a little beast
 

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Looks like that's the designed speed at 48V:
  • Front wheel hub
  • Electric hub motor with a top speed of 18mph.

Every motor has a kv rating, which is the rpm it will go at a certain voltage. You can't change this without swapping out magnets or rewinding all the wire making up the electromagnets to have a different number of turns.

To go faster you need a higher voltage battery and controller or you need a controller that supports field weakening. The later uses additional battery power to generate a magnetic field that weakens the magnets of the motor, letting it turn faster.
 
My battery does work and the controller and the display will work all the way down on 24 volts actually.... I can I can rock a single 48.... I just don't get to go very far on it that's why I have this which isn't that much higher it's only right now in like a 52 I don't know how high it will go with how much I have together there
Do you have a pic of how the two batteries are connected together?
 
Sounds like he connects a 52V battery and 48V battery in parallel, but only charges the 52V battery to the max voltage of the 48V battery (48V LiIon = 13S * 4.2V = 54.6):
two batteries tied into each other one battery is an 84 celled 52v 995wh.....the other is 48v 10.5Ah / 491.4Wh..... I have it ran to where it's adds distance and I charge it to 54.7v.........
Controller page says it supports 60V. He should probably ditch the 48V battery and charge the 52V higher if he wants higher top speed. Less chance of a fire from combining dissimilar batteries too :)
 
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Again I don't have this money

You've got the wrong hobby unless you're willing to put in an extreme amount of elbow grease/research/forethought to get things cheap 😅
 
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Sounds like he connects a 52V battery and 48V battery in parallel, but only charges the 52V battery to the max voltage or the 48V battery (48V LiIon = 13S * 4.2V = 54.6):

Controller page says it supports 60V. He should probably ditch the 48V battery and charge the 52V higher if he wants higher top speed. Less chance of a fire from combining dissimilar batteries too :)
Exactly right I only possess a 54.7v charger and both batteries will except that amount of charge, and I charge both thru a stock port on the battery..... Everything works swimmingly
 
1. Do both batteries have a BMS ?
2. The comments you are getting is that you're losing a lot of range by not fully charging your 52 volt battery and if you don't fully charge it it won't balance and overtime it'll get more and more out of balance which can be a fire hazard.
3. What people are trying to say to you they have different low voltage cutoffs if you're using a BMS in both batteries.
4. Your best off using the 52 battery fully charged and when it becomes close to being empty now don't empty it and don't make it hit lvc and cut itself off when it's not performing very well in the lower voltages change over to your fully charged 48 volt battery.
5. Yes that means you would have to buy a 52 volt charger.

Please show us pictures and a link to each battery so we know what you are talking about.
Plus a link to your original motor is it a geared motor ?

We are trying to help you avoid a fire just because it looks like a brick is very much alive inside stored energy think about a lightning bolt in there that's trying to get out and if you mess up it'll all come out at once and may even explode. The way you're playing with lightning.
If ask a question please answer it not for me but for everyone else here that's trying to help you.
 
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Okay so the BMS is hacked circumvented whatever you want to call it and it charges up to 54.7 volts I don't let it get under 40 I don't even think I've ever got it that low
 
Or something like this I say like this because these things are so cheap they do break down or I don't know which one to tell you to get as there is a ton of them out there or hundreds

 
You're not just monitoring the total voltage of the battery you want to monitor each parallel set of cells.
One pack 13s or a 6s and a 7s balance wires the other 14s two 7s balance wires. Or Get a working BMS
Let us know if you make fire. Be careful.

CLUE !
 
Try to catch the plenty of photos here I have this display and I would like to look it up to just a regular ass controller also included in the pictures I just don't understand even though it's pretty plain in the translation I still am having a hard time but putting it together in my Screenshot_20240329_233505_Google.jpgScreenshot_20240329_233604_Google.jpgScreenshot_20240329_233650_Google.jpg
 
It looks like a DJI speedometer for an electric moped rather than an e-bike display, similar to this.


From what I can make out it uses a hall sensor signal from the motor to calculate speed and has inputs for turn signals and headlight. And also displays battery level and possibly voltage.

Red - battery positive
Black - battery negative
Blue - headlight
Purple - possibly 1 motor phase wire
Orange - left indicator
Light Blue - right indicator
Yellow - probably 1 hall sensor
Two black wires disconnected for 48v or 72 volt battery and connected for 60 volt battery.

It doesn’t look like it’s going to be of any use on a regular e-bike, and I don’t know how you are going to calibrate the speedometer for your wheel size. Maybe there is a speed calibration potentiometer inside the unit.

DJI usually make flying drones and various instruments including speedometers, but are planning on entering the e-bike market.
 
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