Nanjing far driver controllers

Update on BLE connection problems.
My original controller was a TY48V270A_23V_G32. I still can't connect to that controller.
I replaced it with a BJ48V270A_27_1BH68 and I can connect.

The Android app doesn't show the field where you need to enter the verification code on any of my phones so it is impossible to enter it. Grrrr. I eventually solved that by installing a keyboard with a Tab key (I used AnySoft Keyboard). Then I could tab in (the cursor disappears) and enter the code.

Now to work out what all the cryptic settings do.
 
Anyone here using an Encoder version of a fardriver? In otherwords, the B variant at the end of the PN. At least, my understanding is the B variant should support incremental encoders.. But the ND72680B I have only seems to work with in hall effect mode.. Is there something special about wiring for using incremental? I just assumed it was HALLC that would get the Z input, but Ive tried all combinations..
 
I have searched for and read pages over pages that mention "ble module", yet I fail to understand what the fardriver app wants from me?
The app just says "Please use new ble module" when I try to make settings?
Searching outside endlesssphere I found items like this:
1710639994288.png

but how is that going to help my phone, when I try to make settings on the road?
Is there a sw solution for it? Or is my phone too old (2ys)? Or is there any way to avoid this message popping up and stopping me making settings?
Have you had this error also? What did you do about it?

--
Fardriver 72360 neon-green, Phone Ulefone Armor Pro, does this help?
 
All figured out myself! :) Not because I am a genius but because I was lucky: Today, for some unknown reason, the app didn't even word once "BLE". 😜
So, my tip for others new to "Fardriver"/app: Just try again the next day(s), through some voodoo magic, things resolve themselves, it seems.

Speaking of resolved: Others in this thread (I read it all, yeah man) wrote of problems to, eg, "set pole pairs", "set battery amps and phase amps", and more stuff were impossible. This now worked too for me though (23 pole pairs (don't ask me why, I have no clue, the QS motor specs say so), 100A and 190A, Boost 5sec doubled, Release 10sec. (no idea yet what Release stands for), etc. Done. (y)

I was so excited about the progress that then, I test-turned on a bike charger, this one:
1710716842525.png

and it made an instant BANG and went up in a plume of smoke:
1710716884442.png

Reason?

A split second unattentive: I connected the + to system voltage as I had not yet labeled all wiring paths. 😚 These things can handle only 12V. 🤟

I wonder how much current the sparks and plume carried away? It must have been less than 125A because my breaker didn't trip. The breaker I had installed thanks to so many of you here recommending this also. (y)
Now my thought was: I want low rated fuses too! I will put a fuse in the 12V circuitry, and a fuse in the 77V circuitry. (it's Lifepo4, hence why 77V rated).
If the China ship arrives, I should have 100A soon, spread over 2 batteries (currently one 50A).

This is the complete motorbike wiring diagram, may it help others understand every wire also:
1710717885310.png

Clearer (bigger) on the sketchup file (source), but I don't know how to place that here (and maybe, sketchup isn't your cup of tea anyway?).

Speaking of helpful, here's 2 images from the Fardriver Manual(!!) that were wrong(!), and I made corrections (basic continuity measurements helped):

1710718161827.png


1710718193385.png
 
Tomorrowwedietodayweride said:
All figured out myself! :) Not because I am a genius but because I was lucky: Today, for some unknown reason, the app didn't even word once "BLE". 😜
So, my tip for others new to "Fardriver"/app: Just try again the next day(s), through some voodoo magic, things resolve themselves, it seems.

Speaking of resolved: Others in this thread (I read it all, yeah man) wrote of problems to, eg, "set pole pairs", "set battery amps and phase amps", and more stuff were impossible. This now worked too for me though (23 pole pairs (don't ask me why, I have no clue, the QS motor specs say so), 100A and 190A, Boost 5sec doubled, Release 10sec. (no idea yet what Release stands for), etc. Done. (y)
Click to expand...
The pole pairs is the number of magnets in the motor divided by two (since they usually alternate the polarities, it's pole pairs, so half the total).

If it's a hubmotor, like the 205, etc., it's probably 46 magnets, as that's a well-established "standard" used on most of the motors with rotors of that general diameter. There are motors not made that way, but most of the ones around 200mm or so across the rotor turn out to be 46 (so 23 pole pairs).

Some controllers ask for "poles" instead of "pole pairs", and they *can* be asking for the PP number just the wrong way...or they can be asking for the total poles and it does the dividing internally. If it asks for PP it's probably reallly asking for that number. ;)


Tomorrowwedietodayweride said:
and it made an instant BANG and went up in a plume of smoke:


A split second unattentive: I connected the + to system voltage as I had not yet labeled all wiring paths. 😚 These things can handle only 12V. 🤟

I wonder how much current the sparks and plume carried away? It must have been less than 125A because my breaker didn't trip. The breaker I had installed thanks to so many of you here recommending this also. (y)
Now my thought was: I want low rated fuses too! I will put a fuse in the 12V circuitry, and a fuse in the 77V circuitry. (it's Lifepo4, hence why 77V rated).
Click to expand...

If you need battery voltage for low-current devices, just add a tap off the battery wire on the load side of the main fuse, and fuse that separate tap for the wiring / devices' lower current limits (since this tap doesn't have to handle the traction system current).

Same for the 12v system--you can fuse it on both sides of the 12v converter; one on the input to protect the system itself against a converter failure, and one on the output to protect the converter against a wiring or device failure. (each one will be completely different, since input will be high voltage low current, and output will be low voltage low or medium current).

Just be sure to use fuses rated for a greater voltage than your system will ever see, to guarantee that they will break the circuit under load in the worst case situation (direct short of wiring, etc).

But...the fuse in any of these cases will probably not be able to protect against what actually happened (connecting a low voltage device to high voltage)--that will probably still blow up the device before the fuse blows, though the fuse may have a chance to blow before actual fire starts. ;)


Tomorrowwedietodayweride said:
Clearer (bigger) on the sketchup file (source), but I don't know how to place that here (and maybe, sketchup isn't your cup of tea anyway?).
Click to expand...
If the forum won't accept the file, you can just right click on it and "Send to Compressed Folder", which makes it into a zip file that the forum will then accept as an attachment.
 
Thanks Amberwolf. 23 magnet pairs - is more than I have in my shower. :) I actually made another improvement, which others may need or want also, pictured update below:
1710886615184.png


Reason: Each time I turned on my installed breaker, aiming to FINALLY get Fardriver into self-learning mode, the battery BMS shut down! (it arrived from China half-charged as agreed, and at such "low" voltage, clearly the Fardriver's capacitors ate up so many amps so fast, that the sensitive ANT BMS considered it a short.)
So now, I have TWO breakers even, and if I end up being on the road, SOC nearing low, coming back from a pee, I won't have to deal with being stuck just because the controller is eating up the amps / or because the BMS protects the battery, however you prefer saying.
Now I can simply first turn breaker 1, to precharge the capacitors (EXACTLY like I do in my offgrid house, but there the inverter), and then turn breaker 2 (after or before closing breaker 1, doesn't matter). Tested it already today, works again like a dream.

What DOESN'T work like a dream (except like a nightmare maybe) is the Fardriver app. Other controllers TELL you what's wrong, but Fardriver merely beeps annoyingly, and its "explanation" is fruitless: "7.1.3 If there are 2 short beeps and 1 long beep, the cycle repeats, indicating that the controller is in the
self-learning state, and the self-learning should be completed according to the self-learning operation steps."
Searching in vain for the complete list of "the self-learning operation steps"...

I've read all the threads here, but have yet to find a reason/solution. Even after a DAY of trying everything, the Fardriver is STILL not "self-learning" (what a contradiction). But I will get there also.
It's not yet "cleaned up" because, you know now, I am not finished yet.... :rolleyes: but images are always helpful to others, to me certainly:
1710890597205.png
 
Tomorrowwedietodayweride said:
Thanks Amberwolf. 23 magnet pairs - is more than I have in my shower. :) I actually made another improvement, which others may need or want also, pictured update below:
View attachment 349472


Reason: Each time I turned on my installed breaker, aiming to FINALLY get Fardriver into self-learning mode, the battery BMS shut down! (it arrived from China half-charged as agreed, and at such "low" voltage, clearly the Fardriver's capacitors ate up so many amps so fast, that the sensitive ANT BMS considered it a short.)
So now, I have TWO breakers even, and if I end up being on the road, SOC nearing low, coming back from a pee, I won't have to deal with being stuck just because the controller is eating up the amps / or because the BMS protects the battery, however you prefer saying.
Now I can simply first turn breaker 1, to precharge the capacitors (EXACTLY like I do in my offgrid house, but there the inverter), and then turn breaker 2 (after or before closing breaker 1, doesn't matter). Tested it already today, works again like a dream.

What DOESN'T work like a dream (except like a nightmare maybe) is the Fardriver app. Other controllers TELL you what's wrong, but Fardriver merely beeps annoyingly, and its "explanation" is fruitless: "7.1.3 If there are 2 short beeps and 1 long beep, the cycle repeats, indicating that the controller is in the
self-learning state, and the self-learning should be completed according to the self-learning operation steps."
Searching in vain for the complete list of "the self-learning operation steps"...

I've read all the threads here, but have yet to find a reason/solution. Even after a DAY of trying everything, the Fardriver is STILL not "self-learning" (what a contradiction). But I will get there also.
It's not yet "cleaned up" because, you know now, I am not finished yet.... :rolleyes: but images are always helpful to others, to me certainly:
View attachment 349473
Click to expand...
Do you know how to connect the two wire connector marked PARK/CRUISE
and what does it do?
 
Yes peadar and I will post you an image later. The manual page and image are confusing, I found that too. I have a fardriver contact and will ask them kindly to consider improving their manual ("make it accurate", for one!) :cool:
I am not asking them for my "self-learning" issue, because, hey, it's called "self-learning", lol :ROFLMAO:
(PS, i should have used a shorter login, but David was taken, while the login phrase no one had thought of o_O)
 
peadar said:
Do you know how to connect the two wire connector marked PARK/CRUISE
and what does it do?
Click to expand...

So, I was HOPING to test it first, as always. Don't like to suggest sth untested.
Trouble is: It's the third day and I still fail to get the fardriver app to do the "self-learning" for me. :rolleyes:
Hence why I can't take it for a short ride, not even to see if the Cruise works. :cry: (my stock purchase does not have Cruise-able controller, no)

But here's the theory, since you asked:
1710961427546.png

I plan to use all three, ie, I wired pin 17 and 6 as per the youtube guy's "learning board", from 3:20

He does not show Fardriver, but the logic is the same for any cruise controller. Ie, it acts like a switch of on-off type.
What better existing button than the duplicate "horn" button on my bike, I thought, and wired it to that. :cool: I never needed TWO horn buttons (although I do see a point in having one "normal" one, and one "special" one for the stubborn road users to move aside, if you will. :unsure: ) So now, when I press the right "horn" button, I should be in "cruise" mode - IF I can get "self-learning" behind me, finally!? :confused:
 
Thanks for that, don't have my project finished yet,
I hope the nd96850 works without the need to download new app or something. I see people hear have problems logging in and such,
Have not used it for a year or so?
Will check back if I have problem,
 
peadar said:
Thanks for that, don't have my project finished yet,
I hope the nd96850 works without the need to download new app or something. I see people hear have problems logging in and such,
Have not used it for a year or so?
Will check back if I have problem,
Click to expand...
Got a problem ,when to test my controler ,IT turned on ok no beeps, wheel spun ,But no app connection What is the latest app and where to get it?
 
That Fardriver thing is so much FUN once you got it set up! (which can take ages, for me at least).

Have you guys seen the fantastic info on the electricbikes.com pages from spinningmagnets?
I will be attempting what Ron and Eric wrote:
install thicker Phase wires on the engine, add a temperature sensor, add Ferro Fluid, and add heat dissipation fins on the rims. 👍
So that "my baby" doesn't overheat: the death of all electric motors and controllers, can you imagine? 😎

PS: It would be scary for the average Joe / Mary :cool: to experience just how much power the Fardriver can pull out of an ordinary Chinese 20Ah 60V battery! 🏍💨
So much so, today, that I(!) now fear: When I connect my new batteries 100Ah 77V, the bike's frame/chassis may not hold up??

I am thinking of getting it reinforced. I read on "the Ukranian" pages (ridebikeshop) that the standard Chinese frames are not safe for higher speeds and torque. They weld their own frames for their "Long Range Performance" bikes.

And no, after I came back, I held my precious fingers on the wires, controller, and what not, but nothing seemed hot. (y) YET.
 
amberwolf said:
since input will be high voltage low current, and output will be low voltage low or medium current).
Click to expand...
Amberwolf, what type of high DC voltage fuses did you use?
Glasstube ones I assume?

Because, I noticed, standard blade fuses are only good for max 32V.
While my glasstube ones claim they are suitable for both AC and DC to 250V (and any amps that I have).
Fast acting, yes!

The low voltage fuses I already fitted today (12V circuitry).
 
You can click return and work like before....
Or enter your E-Mail adress and you will get a verification code from Fardriver within seconds and afterwards you can connect and bind your controller to the phone. And from now on the app connects automatically to the controller.
 
dominik h said:
You can click return and work like before....
Or enter your E-Mail adress and you will get a verification code from Fardriver within seconds and afterwards you can connect and bind your controller to the phone. And from now on the app connects automatically to the controller.
Click to expand...
Sounds promising, will tryout, I will let you know thanks
 
Got password back ,
inserted it in box,and nothing happened,box is still there but filled out with password ,so maybe I need the controller on? will try later
 
I think you need to press "register" or "login"
Then you need to go to the communication menu and scan for your controller, then press connect and the bind
 
The Code is only 5 Minutes active.
 
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