new eZip motor

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Dan
eZip is what LC started with.
24V 35a controller = 840w into 450w gear reduction motor.
He upgraded to 36V SLA and cooked the motor dogging up a steep hill.
Which started this whole thread ...

My 2008 eZip (Snow Beast) is similar, over-volted but with HO Samsung Lithium, (675w+ motor output), and geared down to 20-21mph max.
Of course added studded tires, fenders, lights etc.
Run great since I upgraded to my 1st recycled laptop 36v volt battery build in 2008.
Except for broken spokes, rims, cables, brakes etc. = normal maintenance.
Must prep for it's 13th Winter's debut.

Geared-volted up another eZip for 27mph commuting, 30mph capable with heavy assist.
 
I really don't know how they compare. You can get parts for Bafang but not sure where at this time.

I believe that the used Bafang hubs are 500w since that is the most commonly used. 20mph should be no problem. I just think you are expecting too much for so little $.
If you gotta have a Ferrari you gotta pay the price, myself I would settle for a Corvette. Both out of my price range but would be able to swing the Corvette way more than the Ferrari :lol: So you gotta spend the money if you wanna go fast without many concerns.

Save your $ and get a good, strong DD hub motor. At least you can over volt them and they can live forever. Don't expect any motor to have either speed and good efficiency and climb big hills.

You need the Leafmotor 1500w with 52v battery. You would stop wasting your money on the chain drive death traps.

Dan
 
I believe that the used Bafang hubs are 500w since that is the most commonly used. 20mph should be no problem. I just think you are expecting too much for so little $.
If you gotta have a Ferrari you gotta pay the price, myself I would settle for a Corvette. Both out of my price range but would be able to swing the Corvette way more than the Ferrari :lol: So you gotta spend the money if you wanna go fast without many concerns.

Like I said I never expected a single motor rated at 500 watts or less to go much over 20 mph however two motors should be better up hills than a single motor. If I can get them used then could probably hook up easy street (my 700c hybrid) just like my Giant Roam which has a 500 watt GEARED e bikeling motor front and rear. I just need the rear brakes hooked up and is ready for a test drive,

Yes. I am considering a 1,500W DD for the 27.5" Silver Dimond back mountain bike but would want to over volt it for 40 mph.

However am still considering a high output BMC or MAC instead and have not completely ruled out a Cro - motor for that either. I have three bikes which need motors.

1. The Haro V3 - pending a 3 kilowatt chain drive.

2, Easy Street - 700c hybrid. Perfect for two Bafang motors ( used) or a BMC or MAC

3. The 27.5" Dimond Back. - pending a 1,500W DD or the Cro - motor. - HUBZILLA !!!

The Currie is getting a 36V - 1,000W chain drive on the back and possibly a second on the front if I can put BMX handle bars on the front to mount it.

I already ordered a 89T - #25 sprocket for the Currie and a 1,000W - 36V brush motor. Gearing at 36V - 1,000W is

download (1).pngdownload (2).pngdownload (3).png

Front and rear total power output is 2,944W

The motors are rated at 36V and 53V might be pushing my luck. 12S and 49V after SAG is almost 40 mph. Going down a small hill I should hit 40 mph easily.

I want to go 40 mph with the Currie via chain drive but if that don't work for some reason then the 27.5" Dimond Back will be a runner up candidate with a DD and the Haro V3 is a candidate with a 3 Kilowatt chain drive and possible 43 mph gearing. Either motors will allow up to 60V so voltage will not be limited to around 50 in the case of the Currie with the dual 36V brush motors.

Obviously since I already ordered the 36V brush motor that will be my first choice for 40 mph as a second motor is less than 70 bucks and brush controllers are cheaper than brushless and 48V packs are cheaper to build than 54 or 60V packs. Once I build a 40 mph bike I will not need to build a second so that is why I am weighing all my options.

The Cro - Motor however is NOT a 40 mph bike , It would go 60 mph. :twisted: So I might build the Currie for 38 or 39 mph on the flat and mabye 40 down a slight hill and throw two Bafangs on Easy street and get HUBZILLA for the 27.5" Dimond Back for 60 mph. :twisted: :lol: If that is the way I go then the HARO V3 would get a MAC or BMC motor for 35 to 40 mph also.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Maybe I shouldn't say this but, NOTHING you have will handle a Cromo hub motor at the power you are expecting.

Yeah you can run a smaller controller so it doesn't destroy the bike but again why. There are many cheap DD hub motors that can do 40mph for a short distance and still be ridden at regular speeds, like 20 to 25mph for long distances.

I don't believe we will be getting another check in the mail. So where in the world will you find the $$ for a Cromo, controller and adequate batteries to power it. Even the $1200 check would be a stretch to get what you really need.

You want 40mph all you need is a DD, decent controller tha handles like 72v and some batteries. Do the 40mph wipe yourself clean and go back to 20/25mph and be done with it. A MAC can do it but doesn't like more than 66v for very long.

I probably have said too much again.

Dan
 
Yea. You do have a point.

If we DO NOT get a second check then I doubt I will be ordering the Cromotor. :cry:

I will still be looking at BMCs and MACs though as well as 1,500W DDs.

Check out the Cromotor V3 in action. :mrgreen:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfKJqpWh3FM

Yea. I really hope we get another stimulus check. The HARO V3 with the Cromotor V3 was a thought but was told the back end of the HARO was not strong enough. Not sure if that is true though. I know the 27.5" Dimond bike looks like it is strong enough. I will need to turn them upside down so we can compare the two.

Also with a welder is there a way to reinforce the rear of a mountain bike frame ?????

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.


12/13/20

I ordered a solder iron with 5 extra tips.


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DA already posted cells from battery hook up.

I just want QUALITY BMSs that have short circuit protection as well as low voltage cut off. I can not get those features by balance charging with my 6S chargers however can still charge them with my LiPo chargers. Please post a link. 144 cells total once all hooked in parallel series for 12S - 12P must be capable of 3 kilowatt total output. Will 20 amp - 6S BMSs work ?????????

120 amps * 25V = 3,000 watts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3S-4S-5S-6S-7S-BMS-Protection-Board-W-Balance-for-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery/333644258371?hash=item4daebf5c43:g:AYUAAOSwe61ftZkF

The iron and tips are ordered and will be ordering 150 cells for the packs this week so need to order the 8 - 6S BMSs this week also.

Charging is 6S - 12P and run is 12S - 12P.

Please let me know. The most important is the quality of the BMS vs cost so if anyone has a better 6S BMS to post please do. I have two 6S - LiPo chargers so can use both to charge at 6S - 12P.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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You can weld anything you want, steel, aluminum, titanium its just a matter of do you have the tools. I purchased a used heavy Lincoln 240 arc welder that is not condusive to home owner use without proper 240 outlet nearby work area. There are 110V welders, flux up to about 120A but thats smoky and like mig but arc is better to learn. Tig takes to much skill. Again go to your neightborhood Hazard Fart aka Harbour Freight and look at your offerings, I am sure you can pick same unit up for half off in used condition. I wouldnt bother with mystery ebay welders because of safety concerns. There are lots of mystery cheap china brand products on ebay and that kind of voltages and amperages not worth the risk.
 
I do not know how to weld or own a welder but I know someone who does.

I am just looking for a video that shows how I could weld steel to reinforce a mountain bike frame so it will not twist or break if I do run the Cromotor V3.

What is most important now is the 144 cell - 12S - 12P packs I want to build which will be two 6S - 12P packs in series as I have two LiPo chargers which can charge 6S Lion.

Please let me know if that will work and the BMS is quality or garbage and if garbage what a good trusted BMS is and post a link if you can.

If what I posted above (the pic) works and I succeed in building a 12S - 12P pack then my next step is ordering the same amount of cells each month until I have enough to run my van or a small car with my FX - 75 - 5 - 45 kilowatt motor and controller.

I am doing research on weight vs power to find out how many kilowatts are needed to propel a 2,500 pound vehicle to 55 mph. I want to either convert my van to a hybrid for 30 mph off batteries or get a small compact car that can do 50 mph @ 45 kilowatts if possible. My guess would be between 1500 and 2,000 - 18650 cells for about 50 miles range at < 50 mph > 40 mph but not sure.

https://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/assets/images/Motor-and-Battery-Primer-site.pdf

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The FX - 75 -5 motor is 45 kilowatts so should do the trick with the van which is about 4,000 pounds but will need gearing for hills and top speed. Not sure how it will work but figure at least a 3 speed if possible in case of steep hills but if going hybrid can use gas for hills and electric for flat or down hills.

DA is the closest ES member so I am hoping if I can build a large enough battery pack he could help me with the conversion.

The van is heavy so more likley will look for a vehicle between 2,500 and 2,000 pounds if possible or a hybrid in decent shape and just use my batteries as I am sure a lot of people are willing to sell a hybrid cheap instead of replacing the stock battery pack.

I have many options. I like those 2 wheeled cars that have two wheels up front and one in the back. They look around 1,500 pounds so would do 55 mph easily with the FX - 75 - 5 motor.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
I havent read anything on people twisting frames with high powered hub motors. Axle spinnage can happen easy enough, I'd be more concerned with having solid and tight torque arms and sturdy placement of battery. I'd say a good cromoly steel frame from decades ago would be stiff enough. Get your buddy to weld you up a nice permanent rear rack and a shelf in the triangle for your battery to slide into firmly then duct tape! :thumb:

BMS'es are gambles unless someones has opened them up, figured out the schematic, did testing. Seems to be a blank spot in the diy hobby, the ones that find good ones keep it to themselves. As for BMS layout its pretty straight forward. Lookinmg at your picture, you got multiple packs of batteries with their own BMS that you want setup in a certain confuration to obtain your proper voltage. I got no clue what your trying to do judging by your picture. I will copy your pic, and edit it. Ah I see I was series them but that makes is 24S, you want 12S by putting 6S12P+6S12P is series so some parallel action is in order. Top group all in parallel making it 6S12P --------IN SERIES WITH------------- the bottom group of parallel 6S12P.

Here ya go, thats the way I'd do it without the BMS'es. With the BMS'es I do not know what other wires there are for the BMS action. Also, make sure your voltages are all the same on each 6S otherwise the inbalance leads to an instantaneous rush of enormous proportions thats not good for the health.

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latecurtis said:
144 cells total once all hooked in parallel series for 12S - 12P must be capable of 3 kilowatt total output. Will 20 amp - 6S BMSs work ?????????
3600w / 43.2V = 83.3Amps needed
Minimum 80 amp capable battery, controller and BMS needed
2200mAh x 12p = 26A X 2C maximum = 52A maximum output from 12p battery, so ...
You would need a 20p battery to output enough power to feed a 3000w motor.

latecurtis said:
I am just looking for a video that shows how I could weld steel to reinforce a mountain bike frame so it will not twist or break if I do run the Cromotor V3.
Use motorcycle frame!
 
shipping was not bad. like 14 bucks I think.

I wont need a full 3,000 watts to go 40 mph.

thought 12S - 4.15 * 12 = 49.8V + SAG = 48V

2500 / 48 = 93.75 or 94 amps.@ 48V - 12p

94 amps / 12 = 7.8 amps @ 48V - 1P

48 * 7.8 = 376W - 1P

If I go 15P it might work.

94 / 15 = 6.26 * 48 = 300W @ 1P.

Yes. DA. 20 P would be a lot better.

94 / 20 = 4.7 * 225W - 1P.

Yes . 20P. would work best for 2,500W as the batteries will last longer. 18650 cells are not high discharge like LiPo.

I guess that also answers my question of batteries for an electric car.

12S = 20P = 240 cells for 2,500W.

2,400 cells for 25 kilowatts

5,000 cells for 50 kilowatts.

The FX - 75 - 5 motor is 45 kilowatts.

That is a lot of watts. and a lot of batteries.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
And a lot of weight, hopefully its c.o.g. is low.
I like 2kw, could probably do with 3kw or 48V 60A if my area was hillier with longer steep hills.


latecurtis said:
That is a lot of watts. and a lot of batteries.
 
Are the frames Aluminum or steel? I doubt they would be Chromoly. I had to build a Chromoly rear suspension arm after the Aluminum cracked. Aluminum can only take so much pressure when tightening the axle nuts. The axle flats can split the dropout before you even get a ride out of it. Just trying to help.

I think the BMS are too cheap to consider.

Dan
 
I know DA builds a lot of packs.

What BMS does he use. I know I could just get a 12 or 13S BMS but then I would need to buy a charger when I have two 6S LiPo chargers sitting right here. That just seems like a waste of money. Maybe it is just me.

I am not sure if I want to deal at all with LiPo any more. It seems like the 18650 cells are more stable and charging cycles are as many. It just makes sense to me to build two large 15P packs or 18P packs that are 6S so I can charge both at the same time with my two LiPo chargers rather than ordering two more chargers when I have two.

If I am wrong please let me know. If those 6S BMSs are no good then I hope I can find 6S - BMSs that are good.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. The rim was cracked. Eyes are not what they were. I bought some carrots :lol:

I took the 26" rim with the 1,000W front hub motor SUNDER sent me about 6 years ago to the bike shop tonight. About 4 years ago I hit a broken section of road back in NY and fractured my rib. The front shook after that. I remember I had the LiPos in the metal cash box which were protected. The wires came unhooked but no damage to the packs. Just the front rim and my ribs as I landed on the handle bars. It was not fun.

No bike shop in NY would fix the rim as e bikes are not legal there. I got my storage in August and took it to a bike shop about 5 miles away a couple of months ago, They told me it was cracked and when I brought it home and took pictures it was the factory seam opposite of the hole for the stem. However that was not the crack that was pointed out to me tonight at a different bike shop about 7 miles away. It is cracked about 3 or 4 inches from the factory seam right where the broken spoke was replaced when DAN sent me new spokes about 3 years ago. Both bike shops have the same name , Ernie's : and the guys who work there are very professional and friendly.

They sell hub motors (factory e bikes). Looks like geared hub motors in the rear but could be 500W DD. The good news is they will lace it in to a new rim for only 35 bucks labor and might have a rim in the back they said. If not a brand new rim is 50 bucks but on back order so looking at the end of January. They will need the horse shoe shaped washer that comes with the torque arms to true the wheel after they lace it though. I need to get the rear brake hooked up for the giant so will drop those off when I have that done. I gave them a 23 buck deposit and they took my number.

Basically winter time is the slow season and those guys need to make a living and I will need brake work done on at least 1/2 a dozen e bikes and other work done to the dual suspension that I gave to Mike. (my wife's son). I will be helping out Ernie's bike shop this winter and will be glad to do it as I suck with pedal gears as well as brakes and truing wheels. I just like installing motors , controllers , battery racks and cargo baskets and am getting into building battery packs. :mrgreen:

My 36V brush - 1,000W motor did come in thru FED X to Walgreens about 3/4 a mile today, It is down in the van in the box. It was only around 60 bucks with free shipping. I will be ordering a second soon as I have made my mind up to go 40 mph with two brush motors and controllers instead of ordering a 3 kilowatt brushless motor and controller. I will be using the Currie as it is very solid and already built for an electric motor. It will be the second front chain drive installation since in Ohio. I did several in NY awhile ago on this post.

Another reason for going with two brush motors instead of one brushless motor is the cost of the freewheel sprocket. #25 sprockets are much cheaper than 8mm and others. I would not trust #25 chain over 1,000W but #25H chain is a little stronger and will be < 1,500W. Both motors will see about 1,400W @ 48V and will go 40 mph or close enough to 40 mph on the flat that I will call it 40 mph even if I need to go down a very slight decline (NOT A STEEP HILL) That would be cheating. Gearing will be

3,000 RPM / 36V * 49V = 4,083 rpm.

1,361W * 2 = 2,722W

39.16 mph.

4.17 * 12 = 50.4V.

Well. I guess is depends on the amount of voltage SAG and what the resting voltage is after 12S - Lion is fully charged. Do you guys think it can hit 40 mph on the flat with that set up ????? Please let me know.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4000W-Watt-12-60V-Volt-DC-Speed-Controller-Box-For-Brush-Electric-Motor/313274896443?hash=item48f0a3903b:g:AWIAAOSwxFhfl8Hf

Looks like three wires going to that speed control knob. Will I be able to wire up a thumb throttle instead. I can not post any pictures. Still getting a stupid parsing error. Whatever that is.

I would rather go 39 mph than push the 36V motors over 52V with a 13S pack. The motors are only 64 bucks each but that is still almost 130 bucks.

I got a parsing error trying to post the top gear and sprocket calculator.

however I already posted it on my post at the top of this page under Dan's post.

As soon as I get to Home Depot I will be getting the 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 pressure treated lumber and new carriage bolts and washers for the 750 watt gear reduction motor and will remove it from the Currie and installing it on the 26" dual suspension. The 1,000W front hub motor will go on the back of the dual suspension when it is on a new rim.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
As soon as I get to Home Depot I will be getting the 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 pressure treated lumber...
Why PT wood? Will it be in contact with the ground extensively or near constantly soaked? Just curious. :? Handling it and sawdust is unarguably unhealthy. Also requires more expensive hardware.
 
Why PT wood? Will it be in contact with the ground extensively or near constantly soaked? Just curious. :? Handling it and sawdust is unarguably unhealthy. Also requires more expensive hardware.

Because it is strong , lightweight and easy to drill thru. Also can be painted.

I have installed many motors with wood. If I need to raise the motor up when mounting I have had success with 2 by 4s as well as 2 by 6s.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire BURNS !. Lets burn up some LiPo and make a bunch of money.

Not sure if SUNDER is still around with his 3D printer but I have an idea for those old LiPos DAN sent me about 6 years ago that have been sitting around.

It is called an environmentally friendly Lipo Box.

I see so many videos with Bat boxes and ammunition boxes and the failure of LiPo bags as well as cash boxes like I use with LiPo bags inside.

They all have one thing in common. A TON of smoke leaking in the environment. What is worse is if someone were to breath some of that smoke in. :roll: :roll:

Defiantly a health hazard to say the least.

My idea is to construct and test a box which will run and charge LiPos. It will have very little emissions coming out , will be fan driven and replaceable active carbon filtration.

There is obviously a fear of LiPo fires which I share. I want to run LiPo over Lithium ion due to the high discharge rate but is last on my list of things to do because of the health risk of smoke. My packs are inside LiPo bags but all 4 cells are in one bag and the bag is inside a metal cash box.

My idea is to put them in a permanent enclosure where they can be run and charged and can be charged inside basically anywhere that has access to a window as 99% or more of harmful gasses can be filtered with a high speed fan and charcoal / active carbon filter. I have been using an air purifier when soldering 18650 cells and it greatly reduces the odor to where I no longer get head aches from soldering.

For inside LiPo charging however a small window fan would work next to the carbon filter at the back of the LiPo box or EF Lipo box. An environmentally friendly LiPo box. I would like you guys to help me out with this any way possible and whoever is a part will be getting a profit if massed produced. Obviously there will need to be extensive testing done.

My idea is to wrap each LiPo pack in a large LiPo bag instead of stuffing as many LiPo packs that will fit in a single bag. Muffler clamps are metal so can be used instead of zip ties but obviously firm but NOT very tight to put pressure on the pack.

Two packs per metal cash box and two metal cash boxes inside a tempered glass with a high melting rate. (fireproof glass) or some other type of non flammable material. I think that a metal wiring harness could work for the power and balance wires which would need to be extended between two and three feet out of the EF box. ( Environmentally friendly box)

I think if the cost is NOT too high that they will sell like hot cakes at I hop after an all night Frat. party. (hopefully they all wear a mask) :) A lot of people will buy them and it will greatly reduce LiPo Fires so even the fire department will approve them for use. Also shipping LiPos inside a test proven EF box could be approved by the DOT.

LET's GET ER DONE. !!!!! :pancake:

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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latecurtis said:
Why PT wood? Will it be in contact with the ground extensively or near constantly soaked? Just curious. :? Handling it and sawdust is unarguably unhealthy. Also requires more expensive hardware.

Because it is strong , lightweight and easy to drill thru. Also can be painted.

It's not the wood he's wondering about, but the poison soaked into it. Southern yellow pine would be equally strong, SPF would be lighter, and neither one is toxic.
 
Yes, contrary to your mistaken preconception, PT wood is not stronger than non PT. Just has poison injected slightly into the surface to resist fungus and some insects. More expensive, more of a hassle to work with unnecessary in your application. And if you cut it, or drill it, and don't treat the fresh cut with more poison, your PT lumber piece is no longer resistant. Anyway, that's probably among the least of your challenges. :wink:
 
Why even bother with wood, just bother with steel or aluminum. Wood is easier to deal with for sure, but metal aint that hard to drill and bolt and bend and if you ever be so lucky weld but metal costs more and wood could end up being free but so can metal. If you ride long enough metal signs littered on the ground are common, and we are all tree huggers here trying to save Mother Earth :wink: to recycle bin in my garage it goes :lol: I'd bend the sign over, use some clamps to tighten the seam then bolt the motor to it. Yes, its more work, but its less bulky. It does not matter to me what you use, just saying whatever I just said there.
 
Yea. I will stick with wood. You forgot the part that PT. wood will not split and has a greater density over non PT. and hard wood. I have had enough success to know that it works and will prove it over again three more times when I mount three chain drives with wood over the next several weeks.

One on the front of the 26" dual suspension and two on the Currie E Zip Trailz.

NOW.

Lets put our brains together and build the EF. LiPo box. (environmentally friendly) LiPo Box. I just posted rough blueprints and idea's for it and am confident it will work and we (anyone involved in its testing and design) can make money. One of us will need to patent it and I am only seeking 10% profit for my ideas.

It will need to be small enough to mount on a rear bike rack with the filter in the back. Rough dimensions should be less than 14" long , 10" wide and 8" high - + or - 1"

Some type of fire retardant material must be used inside the wiring harness so it don't burn like a fuse and burn the wires outside the EF box.

1. two small cash boxes

2. four LiPo bags and 8 hose clamps.

3. Charcoal/carbon filter.

4. high speed 12V fan.

5. 7.5 Ah SLA battery.

6. fire resistant glass panels

steel flexible electric wiring harness.

A type of heat resistant glue to glue the panels together.

That is a short list of materials and components.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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wish I had more ambition ?

I have always lacked ambition,

Now it is snowing and the roads are shot.

I dropped off the hub motor two days ago and was supposed to return with those horse shoe shaped washers that comes with torque arms so they can true the wheel after they lace it to a new rim.

I also need to go to Home Depot for lumber and hardware. I can't mount anything without that stuff. The 36V - 1,000W motor is sitting out in the van still in the box. I also have the 89 tooth #25 sprocket. I picked it up at the post office yesterday.

I would have done something earlier but when I got up to get a drink of water around 3 PM it was snowing and the roads were shot so went back to bed until 5 PM.

My wife made coffee and the news is on and am sitting here wishing I had something to do. No soldering iron and did not get around to ordering those 18650 cells DA posted. DAN said the BMSs I posted were junk and DA did not post a link for a decent 6S BMS.

Usually like 95 times out of 100 or more when I think of something someone else has already done it . It just makes sense that if nobody has built a smoke free LiPo box to trap most or all the toxic gasses from a LiPo fire that the idea just might receive a patent. It also just so happens that I used to build fish tanks and glass in general is flame resistant however at a high temperature it can melt. That is why fiberglass under the metal cash box could prevent the metal from melting the glass. But using fireproof glass is an even better idea.

I have a 45 gallon aquarium and was thinking about putting some fiberglass insulation under the cash box and an air purifier inside however it is not practical as who is going to put a 45 gallon aquarium on the back of a bike, Also it is in a confined space and not near any window or ventilation to get the toxic gas out of the house that the air purifier cant filter out.

It just makes sense to have a portable container for both running and charging. something that can keep the flames under control and filter out all that smoke and toxic gasses. It would help out the environment on a small scale but on a large scale help the immediate surrounding environment when someone might be close enough to breath in some of those toxic fumes. After all a great percentage of people who die in fires do so from breathing in the smoke.

However I guess nobody wants to pursue my great idea any further and my lack of ambition may just doom the invention to fail. I hope not. I will also keep researching to see if anyone else has attempted such a thing. I can't be the only person to think of it.

OK. I get it. They already have a lot of LiPo boxes they sell to release smoke and contain the fire and for 60 bucks it would be difficult to compete with that.

HOWEVER

here is a great DIY idea that would take it to the next level. It just so happens I have back ground experience in building active charcoal filters for my hydroponic systems I was running back in upstate NY. a few years back. I have a medical state issue cannabis card here so wont be doing hydroponics until I move in a larger apartment and recreational is legal and ok to grow here.

The diagrams and links will work however am not sure what the temperature is where the smoke comes out of these bat boxes or fire proof LiPo containers. Once that is established though it would be really straight forward how to build the filter. There could be a plastic container the right dimensions or may have to construct one out of a material. Wall-Mart used to sell activated carbon for their aquarium filter packs they used to sell and you add the carbon to them. Not sure anymore as not looked lately. I got the sheets of carbon from Home Depot which were to replace filters in air purifiers.

Obviously the first step is ordering the Bat box or similar enclosure and then measure the width and length of the top where the smoke comes out and then go from there. I plan on building my own after I order a Bat box. I already have bullet extensions and a link to order two foot balance connecter wires.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-JST-XH-6S-Balance-Wire-Extension-Adapter-with-60CM-24inches-22awg-Wire/331562025770?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3D23c882747b2b4ceebc4fa06baab44295%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dsb%26sd%3D162529280314%26itm%3D331562025770%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DTurnigy&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

I will probably test my filter by drooping a smoke bomb inside the box and quickly closing the lid and turning the fans on with a switch hooked to a 12V battery. After that I will run the old LiPo packs awhile and eventually order new hard shell Multistars to replace them.

It just happens that I already own four 160mm or 180mm 12V fans I took out of an old server I took apart back when I scrapped metal. That will save me some money. :D

https://www.getfpv.com/pulse-lipo-lithium-battery-charging-safe-box.html?afid=aVlOV0hBdmd6THc9&gclid=CjwKCAiA_eb-BRB2EiwAGBnXXmZtS1s6EgOTK3uwLj4O3jcepEmjqIZr3a9gAZ52FFGpQ9gpIrkDORoCzNgQAvD_BwE

300mm by 220 mm is roughly 9 by 12. 9 by 12 inches is just a little larger then the top of the box which is ok as will sit on top so smaller wont work but a fraction of an inch larger is ok as four fans are pulling the smoke up thru the filtration.

It is possible then to build a filter awhile the box is being shipped.

this really sucks. I got the winter blues.

Thanks.

LC. out

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markz said:
You know what else electrical tape is good for?
Rim Tape

No. It's passable, barely, for single walled rims. For double walled rims it's useless. It leaves nasty gooey mastic on stuff after a while, too.

If you can't get real rim tape or tubeless tape, next best is Gorilla tape. Two layers of filament strapping tape is also okay.
 
Yes. I have done that also recently. Like in the last month or two I think. Still suffering winter blues. I called the post office when I got up and they have no idea where my second 22 Ah SLA is. It was supposed to be delivered on the 8th and last time it was scanned was in Illinois' back on the 5th.

Then I called the bike shop where the 26" hub motor is and they ordered a brand new rim and probably won't be ready until the first week in January. Then I had to go to Wall - Mart to get a new coffee pot. I planned on taking out 40 bucks and head to the Home Depot for PT. lumber and new nuts and bolts to start mounting chain drives,

However I thought the weather was warmer than it was and did not bring my SLA to power my 150W portable heater. I tried it out and did not make much difference a few days ago. The blower don't work and the windows fogged up, Also I forgot my bank card and before I got to Wall - Mart I stopped at McDonalds for a double quarter pounder value meal.

There is a golden rule for the golden arches. At room temperature McDonald's fries only tase great about 5 minutes after you get them unless they are fresh out of the fryer. Then maybe 8 minutes max. In a 30 degree vehicle try 2 minutes or by the time the guy who forgot to put ketchup in the bag gets back you will be eating cold fries. :cry:

At least I had enough money left to get a 10 buck coffee pot and had 5 bucks left for a beer run later. I was disgusted and took a nap for about 2 or 3 hours awhile the wife watched stupid Christmas stories. I can feel the type 2 diabetes killing me. I had a healthier dinner though with stir fry chicken and peppers and mushrooms with cheese.

I can only hope for warmer days to come as am totally board out of my mind. I need to work on e bikes. That is the only thing in my life to do. I never liked Christmas since my father passed from cancer back in 09. I grew apart from family and the few friends are in NY state on lock down from COVID19.

I can only hope for better days and hope to get to Home depot soon. I am still not 100% sure what bike I want to put the 750W gear reduction motor on that is currently on the Currie. I have the 89T - #25 sprocket which will go on the left drive freewheel on the currie.

What I am thinking is I still have the 27.5" silver Dimond Back which has 27.5" wheels. I also have the 700c Giant Cypress hybrid with no motor. Since the 750W gear reduction motor will run any free wheel and 27.5" and 700c make it difficult to find a sprocket for NON gear reduction motors 3,000 rpm or higher it would serve a better purpose than the front of the 26" dual suspension.

I am thinking about going back to my original plan and order a 1,000W rear 26" hub motor for the rear and putting the front 26" hub motor on the front and will have a pedal chain and gears. Then I could maybe swap the front handle bars with the Currie so I can put a second 36V - 1,000W chain drive on the front of the Currie and hit 40 mph @ 50V.

The gear reduction motor could go on the Haro V3 , the 27.5" Dimond Back or the 700c hybrid. ( easy street) I don't know. It is just a thought. I also thought about taking the 1,800W brushless motor off the 20" bike and putting the 1,000W - 36" chain drive on it instead and putting the 1,800W motor on the Haro V3. All I would need then is a 48V 2,500W brushless controller that will handle 50V and go 40 mph.

I would be left with a 1,500W brushless controller though. I could order a 1,500W brushless motor for the 27.5" Dimond Back or Easy Street. We are only getting 600 bucks in a Stimulus check though and what is worse the land lord sold the building. I don;t think the new land lord can legally raise the rent but not sure. I doubt he will kick out 5 tenants either as the house is set up with 5 separate rental units. I do not think he will turn it into a single or double family house but then you never know.

Therefore I probably won't be ordering the Cro motor V3 or V4. I really do not want to order a 1,500W direct drive either.I like running two motors though so mabye a couple used Bafangs off that site Dan posted for used e bike parts. I think a 2,500W - 48V brushless controller for the 1,800W motor on the Haro V3 and a 1,500W brushless motor for about 60 bucks will get me 40 mph on the Haro. I won't need a second motor for the front of the Currie then. But it will need a motor. Mabye a 1,500W brushless motor on the back.

I do not know. I have the winter blues and am a little confused. :confused:

Thanks.

Lc. out.
 
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