new eZip motor

[markz]

I'd rather not guess.

Even the wide selection of molex connectors have different pitches and angles, and they may look the same but arent.

Stock up!
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/connectors.html

 

[latecurtis]

I do not have an LED module display. I thought it would come with the controller but it did not. It makes no sense as I do not think it is possible for the controller to work without the module display. The 9 pin motor connecter is hooked up and the only reason why I ordered the controller in the first place as thought if the motor plugs in to it then it would work. E bikeling was the only controller I found with that for that price, All others were more expensive.

Both e bikelings motors I bought I got as a kit with everything required except batteries. Both direct drive motors were also a kit so is the first time dealing with hub motors with no kit.

Any chain drive motor I ever bought was simple and works with about any brush controller. This is brand new to me and there are only two plugs besides the one for the motor and the power wires. The red plug and another plug which does NOT look like any plug on any control module I have seen.

I need a module which will make the controller turn on and off unless there is another way to do it by splicing wires together. I already cut off the plug for the throttle and hard wired that as the throttle it needs HAD a female plug and so did the throttle I ordered. I am just losing patience with this build. I was going to call the bike shop and have them fix the rim anyway if it wont need a new rim. They closed at 5 PM on Sunday and was 5:02 when I rolled out of bed because I drank beer and watched Game of thrones until early morning so I did not throw stuff in the dumpster.

I thought these Bafang motors were a good deal. Obviously not as I could not get a cheaper controller as the 30 buck and less controllers on e bay wont ship to my PO. box. even though once they arrive here from China USPS delivers them so had to spend 60 bucks on a controller thru Amazon which does not come with a control module which is required to run the controller.



I was going to buy at least two more Bafang motors but not if I can not get the controller for 30 bucks and the module for 20 bucks. The motors come to 50 bucks WITH shipping. I bought two and was like $104 bucks I think so if I can not get a controller and module without spending close to 100 bucks it just does not make sense to do as I could get a direct drive 500 watt kit for around 150 bucks new that does not require work done at a bike shop to a bent rim.

I will probably need to contact e bikeling to get the correct module for that unless someone here on ES could let me know if it is possible to bypass the module by cutting the plug and splicing wires together as I would rather not have a module to turn the controller on and off. There are DC breakers at the post office for me to pick up tomorrow to do that and if I can eliminate the module I could call the post office to see if it is possible to re route or change the delivery address once the controller reaches the USA and then just order a > $30 controller for the other motor. If that is possible I would order two more Bafang motors.





I only see two pins coming from that module. It sure don't look like it will work with the controller I have. The other two e bikeling modules have square white plugs like the two that came with my 500W e bikeling motors. The picture does not show the plug straight on though. It is a top/side view. There could be more pins that are shorter inside. But really do not want to guess if it will work.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Yeah, you need the control LED display and the breakout cable I posted.
If you meter the pinout you should be able to cut and splice future displays to controllers.

 

[markz]

Looks like you are in quite a jam curtis whom is late aka latecurtis. I always buy controller from the same place now, and I never liked any ebiking system with a display for a few reasons, I'll explain. First it just adds more stuff to the handlebar that is not needed. Two, it sticks out because there aint normally a display on any bicycle so people think thats odd. Third is its just more wires man, who needs more wires, Four, more failure points, Five more cost, six more complexity, seven more could go wrong at the shipper side giving you a wrong display

 

[DrkAngel]

Last knowledgeable post indicates no LED display bypass on newer (5 pin) controllers.

 

[latecurtis]

Yeah, you need the control LED display and the breakout cable I posted.
If you meter the pinout you should be able to cut and splice future displays to controllers.

There has to be a control module which just plugs in the controller. I doubt they make a controller that requires cutting and splicing. I am sick of cutting and splicing. I had to do it with the throttle. The only way I would cut and splice is if I know it could work like the power lock on a brush controller. It is two wires twisted together with a piece of tape over it or a paper clip to the two holes on the little white plug.

I need to find the correct module that will plug in. It could be the one in the picture in my last post. The picture of the plug is round and looks like the one but only shows two pins. There could be more but no way to tell with that picture.

I will look on e bay for cheaper controllers and modules.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-36V-17A-Controller-For-250W-350W-Brushless-Motor-Ebike-Electric-Bicycle/353290930607?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D9f847f59f6204a928fc39ed22bace380%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D12%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D164322481824%26itm%3D353290930607%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DUnbranded%2FGeneric&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851



https://www.ebay.com/itm/KT-LCD3-Display-Electric-Wheel-24V-36V-48V-Intelligent-E-Bike-Panel/332849482230?hash=item4d7f6009f6:g:nhMAAOSw2yVbzYM7



That has the 9 pin plug for the motor and does not require a special throttle with a yellow round plug and that is the module for it. Thing is though I can not return the e bikeling controller as I cut off the yellow plug on it as the throttle I ordered had the same female plug and not a male so hard wired the throttle. After searching extensively I only see displays with 5 pins and it is stated on the controller I ordered I need an 8 pin. Which no longer exists as far as I know so will probably end up taking a hammer to the controller as I cant return it as I cut the yellow throttle plug off.

I still have a second Bafang motor though so will try to order those and have a 3 and a 4 wire throttle that has standard white plugs but will still need to call the post office Tuesday to see if I can change the shipping address after China ships it as they wont ship to my PO. box and don't need it to get stolen.

However.

I am about to remove the Currie from my little e bike work shop as I failed miserably after about two weeks of working on it. Everything is done so will only take a few minutes to hook up an 8 pin display module if one exists that one in the picture will not work. Or after I speak to someone from e bikeling and see if I can order an 8 pin direct from them. It takes about 5 days to a week to get a module from Amazon , not sure about e bikeling. I was just told that Monday is holiday so cant call e bikeling until Tuesday so I need to stop working on a bike that still needs parts and work on the other bike I have all the parts for.

The 26" dual suspension with the 1,000W direct drive hub motor with the new rim and wiring and the 1,000W 36V chain drive brand new motor on the front. 2 kilowatts total and 30 mph gearing @ 48V rear and 36V front. If I ever get around to building 18650 packs and can manage to build a 60V pack for the 1,000W 48V hub motor and a 48V pack for the 36V - 1,000W chain drive I will be looking at 36 to 38 mph easily.

The Currie is only a 20 mph bike as the 750W gear reduction motor only has 20 mph gearing at 36V and the Bafang motor is a lost cause at this point and will only go about 16 mph. Not something I am interested in wasting any more money on. I might just throw both Bafang motors in the dumpster unless I can take them apart and re wire them. If I cut off the 9 pin motor plug there should be three motor wires and 5 sensor wires. Not sure what the #9 pin is even for. Please let me know if that would be my best option. Any brushless controller could work then and why not run a 30 amp controller and 48V. If I could get 22 to 24 mph out of those Bafang motors it would be worth buying more.

Please let me know as before I toss them in the dumpster I am thinking about re wiring it. I succeeded with the direct drive and had to take that motor apart. This one I should only have to cut the 9 pin plug off and I should have access to 3 motor and 5 sensor wires. I would have done so in the first place if I knew there was no 8 pin display. I would never have wasted 50 bucks on a useless controller as I have a 500 watt brushless controller Dan sent I never used.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

PS. I need to go to the beer store but found this.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=81213

When I get back I will call green dot and see how much is on the card and order two 9 pin extension cables and then go from there that way I wont have to cut the motor wire to splice into a different controller. I need to finish reading that forum topic also. It is worth it to me as most of the time in the city I only go 10 to 15 mph and I usually have a second rear motor capable of > 20 mph when I need it.

 

[DrkAngel]

Yeah, you need the control LED display and the breakout cable I posted.
If you meter the pinout you should be able to cut and splice future displays to controllers.

There has to be a control module which just plugs in the controller. I doubt they make a controller that requires cutting and splicing. I am sick of cutting and splicing. I had to do it with the throttle. The only way I would cut and splice is if I know it could work like the power lock on a brush controller. It is two wires twisted together with a piece of tape over it or a paper clip to the two holes on the little white plug.

I posted up the correct breakout cable for that connector ...
Better price available, less than $16 delivered!

 

[latecurtis]

I posted up the correct breakout cable for that connector ...
Better price available, less than $16 delivered!

This is more than just a little confusing.

What you are suggesting is I order a 8 pin extension cable to hook up to a 8 pin control module that may not even exist so would need to order a second 5 pin cable for a 5 pin display and try and splice the correct 5 wires from the 8 pin you posted and then hope that it will work.

Now if the cable you posted was an adapter going from 8 pin to 5 pin on the opposite end and could hook to a 5 pin display module that would defiantly be worth 16 bucks but if NOT then is seems like a huge waste of time. I only see one plug from the cable you posted which is 8 pins. I do not see the other end.

I glanced thru the post here on ES of converting the bafang motors and it would seem like eliminating all 9 pin motor wires would be the cheaper way to go by simply cutting off the 9 pin plug from the motor or ordering a 9 pin extension and cutting that and soldering three motor and 5 sensor wires to any brushless sensored controller. Then I would not need any display module at all.

Since the controller I have is waterproof and mounted where it actually looks good I will call e bikeling and if they have an 8 pin display module for 50 bucks or less I might order it but if not will be requesting a refund from Amazon as I was sold a controller that is impossible to use if an 8 pin display module no longer exists. Then it should not matter that I cut off the yellow 3 pin throttle plug as it could not possibly work anyway.

So I will go ahead and order the 9 pin motor extension cable anyway as there is no way in HELL I am spending 50 bucks on a second 9 pin motor controller and another 50 bucks for a display module for my second motor. I would rather just throw it in the dumpster.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Not sure what the #9 pin is even for.

Temp wire will be in with the 5 hall sensor wires, 3 phase wires.

 

[latecurtis]

Temp wire will be in with the 5 hall sensor wires, 3 phase wires.

Yea. makes sense.

I do not see in the post on converting Bafang motors where they did cup off the plug. They used an adapter for a different controller. Grin and Luna cycle.

My original thought was to cut that 9 pin motor plug off and hook up the wires to the 500W 36V brushless controller DAN sent me years ago but every time I cut a plug off of something I end up regretting it.

A perfect example was cutting off the yellow plug. Now I might be stuck with a 50 dollar controller I can never use.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-wire-Motor-Extension-Cable-Sports-Cable-9Pin-Cord-For-Bafang-Front-Rear/203238178258?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2f51f07dd2:g:dO0AAOSwC4Jf81-W&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrmmq8hWevtuKE7%252F%252BLfVXtpky6c%252BivC94ep2OBmukA9jSxjzvTFqR6PcLsYF5bvr5W3LEGmUFAz9M4AwNJoQNJE3uo8JY9e1W2TLpSBKoe%252BQgVG8qFOq1hvPf9F9Ss%252FgYRwU01h4GCISCW75myUF241AxRZW45vf7JHSwiMnjo7e7MGD9jocej8Pe6VfhOPcNTVlzu3uoP2n%252BW6HAHhneHThIEV9Jawfyddq0bhZ%252BEIjGhn%252BmPZetIqgGvN4Em%252FgyCocnTN9zMpOw4s1SutmYLB7Dtjsy1HZp0aAOaPLrAaOi7inB9VU8PuNRH6erq%252BAVNaUQ66GZEN%252FwJzrIiRpKA7kPj1YFL%252BogCCfoXogalMoqQxL4K24HHPDXSIHxw%252FJzls1xVLlarWWQ1DHbImRnPlCAVXoqQbZ%252FM1vdsvxI8meXdaBcbrz9B%252FZRlo2GTdJi3kPk2eV%252B92hJoi%252BDQ9AbXdGBe%252Fi4NRU1VjFK%252F3vzXvy%252BUiogKLMGGlaxRSKcOGXJg29JZWTJ86Efy8xPCwQprYSqTpFnbqifZJMpvkrzkhHF0RnBFF0Ai2QmRvxo3yheewRmBJSJyevrHV%252FcmgJI9u5q8MaXld67MXbMTIenn99WXYKq0kviVV1qvPCPH1cefM7OLVdk5OelRc%252Fu9JDQ9GaDDplp45OKzQd0EiDHZomeLq%252Bs7EIhiI58LrO0qlMMyjGFUnVqnaLnyPPlForBjL9JZdyRn9CXKSSxFY5DrORvL7wnwxQLuVdYb3ktkAzjvOiJs90SUFR09%252BbFcuu%252BFGyQc0JNS4czpUquMC%252Fa8PE%253D%7Ccksum%3A2032381782583757a72392914d6795db556b3ee41f6a%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524




Yea. I really wish I knew that existed when I first got the Bafang motors. I do not see why I could not just hook it up to the 500 watt 36V controller Dan sent. I am ordering that cable now for the other Bafang motor at the bike shop. I called green dot and have 40 bucks left on the card. I will call e bikeling tomorrow about an 8 pin display module and if they do not have one I will call Amazon for a full refund on the controller I got as it should not matter if I cut the plug off unless there is an adapter cable that will work with the 5 pin display module.

Amazon wanted 30 bucks and that one in the picture with the 8 wires on the end wont get here until late Febuary or March so ordered a used one which will be here by the end of the month.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Its not that hard to deal with a bunch of wires after cutting the connector off. Halls would be 3 different colors and a red and a black. Temp might be white or something. 3 big wires bunched together are phase obviously. Remember to disconnect the battery when snipping, also I try to cut one wire at a time. Its become a habit. If you would have purchased a sensorless brushless controller then all you need is 3 phase wires, and the throttle wires and ignition wire. Easy!

A trick to solder XT60's and 90's is to grab some locking pliers and slip the xt in to hold it. Fill the xt solder bowl with solder but dont over do it. Solder and tin your prepared wire. Heat the bowl till solder melts then dip wire into bowl. Fat fingers dont help, unsteady hands dont help. Thats why many people go with a mechanical way of assembly a connector, like Anderson Powerpoles.

You can find generics, its so much faster and easier.
https://powerwerx.com/tricrimp-powerpole-connector-crimping-tool
$45

TRIcrimp, the best Powerpole crimping tool for 15, 30 and 45 amp contacts

https://youtu.be/4lak0mewMNo?t=181

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.

I really wish I could go back in time and tell myself NOT to order that e bikeling controller for 50 bucks and order a 9 pin extension from the get go and I would have had a functional motor in about two days instead of two months.

I like the look of the waterproof controller where I ended up mounting it. Also not worried about the space the module takes up on my handle bars. I will extend my handle bars if I need to. To make it light weight a round solid piece of wood at home depot should fit inside the handle bars for an extra 6 inches on each side. I will need that with two throttles and brake levers anyway. I was thinking a detachable front basket with my 1,700 lumen light mounted to the front of the basket and a 12V lithium pack inside that.

I was thinking about quick disconnect terminals for a power meter and speedometer on the front of the basket also but not wanting to use a milk crate but a factory basket that attaches when needed.

I guess the Currie will need to wait until the end of the month or the first of February. That is unless e bikeling can ship me the proper module for their controller so I can simply plug it in. That could happen sooner as long as it is not over 50 bucks. Thats what I paid for the controller. I will take a hammer to it if I have to spend a dime more. The extension cables are not that much and then can use almost any controller.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

I really wish I could go back in time and tell myself NOT to order that e bikeling controller for 50 bucks and order a 9 pin extension from the get go and I would have had a functional motor in about two days instead of two months.

After ordering 22A controllers with the appropriate plug, and matching LCD units, and extension cables, and throttles... I recently got all the pieces together to see if they'd cooperate. Today's testing demonstrated that it all works as desired. Total cost for each hub motor kit, about $140 not including battery. Not too bad. It would have been nice if Battery Clearing House had packed the wheels with more than just a cubic yard of dissolvable peanuts, and the hubs hadn't chewed on each other in shipping. But for the price, I can't really complain.

The first one of these wheels I had, I used an Ebikeling controller because that's what I had available. It worked fine for me, after some reconfiguration.

 

[markz]

Thats good news!
but did you have to use a soldering iron?

It worked fine for me, after some reconfiguration.

.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=110046#p1612178

 

[DrkAngel]

Posted, with link, breakout cable needs no cutting, no splicing ... proper cable to match your controller!
Goes from the 8pin to:
5pin display;
3pin throttle;
3pin brake;
3pin brake.

I've already told you ~5 times that this cable is exactly what you need!
Are you too self-righteous in your own despair to even look at it?

Add to controller to
enable full features:
1 throttle;
1 pedal sensor;
1 "display";
2 brake disconnect;
1 keylock (3rd red).

My god man, you make it sooo difficult to try to help you!

 

[latecurtis]

I am sorry. I do not see the link.



I saw that but not a link.

Maybe it did not post somehow.

 

[DrkAngel]

When mouse arrow moves over picture, in original post, it turns into a hand, which indicates that the picture is the link.

Click on picture!

We have had this discussion before!

 

[Chalo]

Thats good news!
but did you have to use a soldering iron?

It worked fine for me, after some reconfiguration.

I only had to match the battery-to-controller plugs (I used Anderson PP45) and reconcile the pole count and wheel diameter to give the correct road speed. No soldering.

When I used an Ebikeling controller, it was the whole kit minus the motor. So everything plugged right in (including the motor).

 

[latecurtis]

When mouse arrow moves over picture, in original post, it turns into a hand, which indicates that the picture is the link.

Click on picture!

We have had this discussion before!

OK. got it.

Thanks DA.

I will need to put money on my card as I ordered the 9 pin extension cable for the other motor. Between the cable and display module I will be spending over 50 bucks. I will do it for this motor I guess but not the other motor. The other motor will hook to a cheaper controller with no module. With the 9 pin motor extension cable I will have all three motor and 5 sensor wires so should work just like the DD hub motor I am hooking up today.

I called the bike shop and they are going to try and true the wheel. I called the post office and they are going to unlock the door for me to go to my PO. box and pick up those DC circuit breakers. I need to get ready and have about an hour to get there.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Julet-1-to-4-main-Waterproof-electric-bicycle-Cable-integrated-4-in1/163974849719?hash=item262da9a4b7:g:O4sAAOSwkXdd6H6w

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Motor-Cable-Motor-Wire-Motor-Connector-9-pin/164163053479?hash=item2638e167a7:gA8AAOSwNHZemCSN

 

[latecurtis]

The 9 pin motor wire cable I ordered from Amazon which was supposed to be delivered was canceled by the seller as was out of stock. I clicked on both links DA. posted and ordered both cables. However I wont get them until the end of February or sometime in March.

That is ok as the e bike workshop will keep on going with other projects.

I built the #25H chain from two #25 chains using no master links. I used my #25 chain breaker tool and broke one of the chains saving a pin. I then measured where I needed to break it again. I ended up with two pins and lined up the holes and gorilla taped the chain to the bottom of the bike frame and used a small vice grip and hammer to drive the pins in the holes.

I got it lined up and bolted down and when turning the freewheel sprocket like in the video below I noticed that when the sprocket turned the chain would get loose than tight again. The sprocket was not centered correctly as the bolts I used were a mis match. They were not all the same. That was Monday night. Last night (Tuesday night) I drove the van to Home Depot and got the perfect nuts , bolts and washers as well as two extra metal strap clamps and when I got home I went to work.

The sprocket is perfectly centered and the chain is tight. Maybe a little too tight but will just have to live with it. I am looking at a test drive in a couple days. The video shows the work I did. The throttle for the brush chain drive is three wires with three pins I inserted into the plug from the controller. I am covering them with hot glue , applying liquid electric tape over all solder joints and letting everything dry for 12 hours.

Tomorrow afternoon I shall mount the brush controller on the opposite side of the hub motor controller and then test both motors one at a time for power. I do not believe a test run will be possible though as there is a lot of snow on the roads but who knows they might be clear tomorrow but I doubt it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cb1904Qr_y0&feature=youtu.be

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Chain breakers are poorly named, because they are also designed to precisely (properly!) reconnect separated chain sections!

 

[latecurtis]

DA.

Did you watch the video ?

I will be finishing up the build soon and am wondering what the T factor is on the 1,000W hub motor ?

As far as 40 mph goes I am not concerned with that at this time. What makes more sense is what the maximum cruising speed will be without over heating the motors or controllers. If I were to take a long ride on a highway not a thruway as bikes are not allowed but a highway where there is plenty of room and not a lot of traffic.

Also a decent incline hill say 1/4 mile high. Not sure about grades but you are expert with graphs.



https://prnt.sc/xbpmbu

The main thing I want to do is by using two separate packs , a 12S or 13S for the rear hub motor and a 10S to 11S for the front chain drive motor to make the speed of the motors very close so that they work together. However as of now they will both get hooked up to 10S packs as I have not built a 12 or 13S pack yet.

The wiring in the video is temporary as it is more suitable for a 350 to 500W Bafang and will be using it for that in the future as I used 16 gauge wiring and for 15 to 16S and 12S for the front motor in the future I will want 10 Gauge wiring but is ok for now with 10S packs hooked to both motors. With 10 gauge wiring and 16S to the rear and 12S to the front top speed should be > 36 mph and < 40 mph. I can live with that as long as I can get both brakes working.

Please let me know as I need to know. I will hook up the speedometer and that will give me a top speed with each motor separate but that might not happen for awhile as there is a lot of snow here right now.
Not sure if you can do a graph with two motors working at the same time. I am looking for a 30 mph steady cruising speed on flat and 20 mph up a steep hill without over heating / failure.

What I did was put the throttles close together so I can start out with the hub motor in the back and then engage the front motor after the bike is moving 5 to 10 mph. This should be good for take off so the front wheel does not spin out as the hub motor is only getting 750W @ 36V or 10S and the front motor is getting 1,000W at 36V. At 36V speed for the hub motor should be 24 to 25 mph but that may depend on wether it is a 6T or a 7T winding on the hub motor.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

Why not build a single useful eBike rather than piss money way on mediocre builds? I'm amazed by the amount of money spent on bad builds.

 

[markz]

A quarter mile high is 400 meters, but what is the length?

Go to https://ebikes.ca/tools/trip-simulator.html and click on input and use Google maps.