new eZip motor

[markz]

That bicycle with its front wheel with that gear, it looks so menacing and dangerous. I'd hate to see all the plant materials it chews and sticks to it when riding narrow tracks. Obviously I wont mention the other hazards.

Speaking of hazards.

I was looking at IIHS crash safety, most minivans are rated as poor for frontal crash, offset crash, and side crash.

Even the 2014 T&C minivan is rated poor.
https://youtu.be/cbTIix96xY0?t=139

The only minivans that were good were the usual suspects, newer Toyota and Honda minivans with newer federal crash safety standards crumple zones 2010+. As seen in the same linked video above.

I'd sure hate to see the crash for snub nose older vans from the 70's, but then theres the tad larger then snub nose vans from the 80's, which some in 2000/10/20's were the same way like the work vans but more engineering in crumple zones but still not worth the risk. If anything go for a truck van with a 5' hood in front of you and at least from mid 00's. Then your talking more money for fuel, larger vehicle.

See what I am talking about.


Snub nose van




A tad larger then snub nose van




Newer work type van and rv's come in this flavor of snub nose, with better engineered crumple zones.




Old trucks dont have good crash accident stats, but find the same thing, cube, rv style BUILT-IN rear on a 2000+ truck




The worst of the worst, flat nose van, flat nose anything is real bad.




VW flat nosed




Old North America Cab Over




New European Cab Over




Chassis truck, with built in rear.





As suppose to slide on camper




I kinda of dig the Australia built in rears.




I kinda of dig the Australia built in rears.



I used to want the full size van with built in rear. Camper van wide body, so built in rear with an extra foot sticking out both sides, but you can get that in raised roof, which is what I'd go for.



Wide body with raised roof.




As apposed to a normal rv, motorhome style.





Final decision would be something like this. 2010 or newer Truck, crew cab, 4x4, built in rear but I'd switch it up a bit and have the top bit that goes over the cab of the truck, have that a flip up so when your driving around its not as restrictive. Can still go through drive thru's. That adds about an inch rather then 2'. If I wanted a 2 person roamer/offroader, then obviously the australia truck with built in camper.

 

[latecurtis]

Yes I agree. The bottom pic. is the best.

Speaking of cargo I guess I lied about not using any more milk crates.

I will be using them but only when I need too. I have it hooked up so two wing nuts can attach them quickly. Front and back.

That bicycle with its front wheel with that gear, it looks so menacing and dangerous. I'd hate to see all the plant materials it chews and sticks to it when riding narrow tracks. Obviously I wont mention the other hazards.

I don't usually ride narrow tracks. I think the front end should be in the next Mad Max movie. :lol: It looks awsome. I really do not think it will fit in the van though.

If it don't then putting lower profile handle bars on the Currie will be my only option. I doubt I will be riding this bike much at all as I am in no hurry to move and it will be close to impossible hauling that thing up those stairs.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Sorry about the long winded post, but its not like the thread is sticking to eZip motors now is it. :wink:
I kind of liked looking at all the vehicle varieties, but I noticed I left out the various hood lengths of minivans, also left out the Doubleback VW van, a van that has a slideout in the back adding 4 or 5' and a tad narrower for it to slide in. But again, it all depends on your needs, is it just you or you and wife/gf or with kids, what age kids. An old 1970's motorcoach is cheap, but expensive to tow and heavy duty repair garage needed.

Everyone has access to milk crates, good for rear rack baskets :thumb: :lol:

You need to then consider a smaller bicycle, either a BMX or 20/24" folder, there are 26" folders. The good 26 folders are Montague Paratrooper which you can't afford, but there are cheap 26 folders. The smaller 20" and 24" folders can be had for a hundred or two all day everyday, new or used going back to the 1960's!

If a smaller wheel (20" or 24") in a hub motor gives you added torque and lower speed compared to a 26/27.5/29".
Then with mid drives and your kind of motor to wheel, does it does a smaller wheel also give you added torque?
You sure can play with the gears themselves for desired speed. But I prefer lots of torque to get up steep hills.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor has stoped turning and the LiPo Fire is not burning right now. ---- Cabin fever.

is it just you or you and wife/gf or with kids, what age kids. An old 1970's motorcoach is cheap, but expensive to tow and heavy duty repair garage needed.

No. Mary's kids are my age or a couple years older and younger. She was born in 42 in Arkansas and at 13 her family moved to the Kingston NY /Woodstock area. She may have been in one of the original Woodstock videos. She grew up with a lot of people there. I met her in Kingston in 1997. I was born in 65. Upstate NY half way between Albany NY and Utica NY. The Mowhawk vally right where the Mohawk Indian tribe lived. Very interesting years in history. She was listening to WW2 on a transistor radio as a kid and I was listening to what was going on in Viet Nam and Richard Nixon/Watergate also on a transistor radio as a kid. TVs were 13" and black and white and was more news on radio than on TV when I was a little kid. We met in 97, She was 55 and I was 33 I think. She has four kids. My son was born today in 1990 so is turning 31 at the end of this month. Jan 29th. He lives in NY and has a good job with Version I think. He lives in central NY. Utica area. Mary's two sons are staying about 40 minutes away currently. Mike has a wife in Florida who is older than him and he is down there 6 to 8 months at a time and up here 4 to 6 months. That varies as he is down there years sometimes as she don't travel. She is a well established doctor and has a career there.

If my van was larger it may give me even more anxiety driving it. A small tow trailer which I could enclose with 3/4" plywood and a solid lock is what I will need as we have a lot of stuff for a small apartment. When or if I ever decide to move it would save at least two trips with the van and I could store any bike in it by making it high enough.

The van has the tow hitch and could still get a really small compact car to drive around and save the van for when I need it to move. I still should start the van on warmer days in the winter and drive it a couple miles once a week as it is not good for vehicles to sit for long periods of time.

I slept straight thru until 7 PM. Snow and winter type weather makes my day sleeping condition even worse I guess however extra sleep can boost the immune system and the human body repairs things and pumps out certain hormones the body needs to restore energy levels in the body. Have you ever woke up after long periods of sleep feeling like a fully charged battery. It is an entire body feeling not just one or a few organs. Basically with enough sleep I actually feel like doing something that requires effort like lifting weights, going for a walk. ect. That is rare for me.

My problem now is going to be boredom if I run out of things to do in the e bike workshop. Once I get a new air purifier for my wife I will be able to use the old one 24/7 if I want to for soldering. Once I order new tips (to replace the ones I lost) I will be able to solder all those cells and charge and test them and build huge packs.

Even a small car with all wheel drive and good in the snow is not something I really need right now. I need the trailer and a large wooden box with a great lock out behind my van. However the weather indicates we are getting a ton of snow in the next week so that looks like a Spring or Summer project. Since I am centrally located I only have like 5 blocks to get to grocery and dollar stores and the post office is downtown less than a mile. Amazon hubs and FedX drop off and pick up locations are also close and with the right cloths and winter boots safer to walk than drive any type of vehicle on snow and icy roads.

I bet you know exactly where I am going with this. :lol:

A 3 Kilowatt brushless motor for the Haro V3. And why not two more Bafang hub motors also. I got at least 2 more winter months where I won't be riding e bikes and do not plan on the tow trailer and approx., 144 cubic foot box 6 feet long , 4 feet wide and 6 feet high.

That will happen when the weather is warm enough to build it outside. Then maybe but maybe not a small compact car after that project is done. If I get these e bikes water proofed I may not need a car at all. Also I am thinking about moving back to Mahoning county. It is where we were the first two months I was in Ohio. Youngstown was the only city close. About 10 miles and there is a bike trail and a huge metro park and three public lakes in about a 15 mile radius. All easily accessible to e bikes and traffic is significantly less than where I am in Canton Ohio.

Long term goals are fixing up an older small hybrid < $5,000 and perhaps buying a trailer < $10,000 to spent the rest of my life in. Also building an East coast Death version of the Death Bike with the FX-75-5 motor. All that is a 5 to 10 year plan though.

So basically right now I have plenty of time for more e bike builds. I plan on ordering a 3 kilowatt brushless motor kit and if the two Bafang motors work Two more in February or March. I might even order a rear 500W geared hub kit for Easy street (the 700c hybrid) The Bafang motors I ordered only has front motors so can throw a Bafang on the front of the Haro V3 and Easy street. I still want a Cro - motor for the front of the 27.5" silver Dimond Back.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Trailers are cheap, you can have them from $150 for an old, rusty one thats 4'x8' to a trailer thats literally the back half of a truck with its frame rails bent together to form the hitch. The problem is its to easy to steal, but there are locks you can buy to lock the trailer to the hitch ball.

Its just a matter of thinking things through. Where will you be in 2 years time, what do you want to do in a year or 5 yrs time.
How much do you think you can get for your minivan, how much is it for a full size van. What will the insurance difference be, dont forget repair costs. I once knew a couple of people who was into old Beamers and Mercs, one guy was real mechanical, imported jap cars and sold them. In Japan once a car is 10 years old is no longer legal on the road. That is why you see them in 3rd world countries and Russia. But the real old ones, we're talking 1950-1975/1980-85 i(even 1990) f the cylinder head cracks, its hard if not impossible to find a used one for them old Beamers/Mercs or any imported old piece of junk. Hard to find gaskets or that specially shaped starter motor and your S.O.L. because the junk yards are filled with 20 year old and newer stuff, not 30 or 40 yr old stuff. Even the dealerships wont be stocking no 30 year old head gasket, or window motor, headlight, thermostat. If you even managed to score something, it will be $300+ for something that normally costs $30.

I once saw a big American SUV only sold in America, that was in Budapest with Florida plates. I once saw a big crew cab Ford/Chev/GMC truck (only sold in North America) in an EuroAsia country. Heck man, even here in Alberta we occassionally see euro style baja type vans with their euro plates, more in touristy towns like Banff/Jasper. Every year a 5 minute drive, there are some Mexicans that come up for either Stampede or Spruce Meadows world horse jumping, they kind of overlap. I knows its a 24 hr drive from here to Las Vegas.

Speaking of small 4wd cars, Suburu's are nice, but old ones are to much to repair especially once the 4wd goes. You'd be surprised how much you can do in 2wd and RWD, especially if you have snow chains.

I dont know where your going with that, I was thinking your going to be moving into a custom trailer to save money on rent. Unwise! Better to move into a motorhome or travel trailer and figure out how to heat in a safe manner. Then find a good spot to park it, commercial areas and industrial areas, you do not want to do Walmarts! Novice campers pull that move. 24/7 truck stops are usually in commercial and industrial zones. Park 2 blocks away, and not in the truck stops parking lot as there is to much noise from the vehicles and diesels. But then again, you werent going with that direction. But you know now thats my plan E. Yes E, better then a camping out or homeless shelter which are plans Y and Z. Plan F is having to be cramped sleeping in a friggin car, I can feel my neck and back hurting just typing that out.

As for hobbies, well I dont know but I'd assume you need physical activity, so why not walk every day. Buy some weights and gain some muscle mass because I bet all that beer you've been drinking has added some unhealthy body weight.

As for building ebikes, yeah just find whatever hubs are on sale with cheap/free delivery. Those generic 1kw dd hubs are good, then I'd say Leaf 1500W, then the MXUS/QS 3kw 45H motors if you want more speed or dump more power into them.

 

[latecurtis]

Trailers are cheap, you can have them from $150 for an old, rusty one thats 4'x8' to a trailer thats literally the back half of a truck with its frame rails bent together to form the hitch. The problem is its to easy to steal, but there are locks you can buy to lock the trailer to the hitch ball.

Yea. I was just thinking awhile walking to the grocery store that 4 * 8 * 6 = 192 cubic feet. The van is about 6 * 3 * 3 = 54 cubic feet approx. I am not sure if everything I own could fit in that space or not.

As for hobbies, well I dont know but I'd assume you need physical activity, so why not walk every day. Buy some weights and gain some muscle mass because I bet all that beer you've been drinking has added some unhealthy body weight.

Future hobbies are many to be considered.

It is difficult for me to do a daily work out with weights and Mary gets freaked out when I walk to Wall-Mart as I walk slow and takes over an hour there and back plus the time in the store so shorter walks are more desirable. (older people with early stages of dementia do not like being alone for more than an hour or two)

I do have a cheap incline weight bench with two 30 pound dumbbells' and try to do 4 sets of shoulder presses with triceps extensions or 4 sets of arm or preacher curls. (with incline bench) 4 sets a day alternating between those routines but I find myself skipping two or three days and is difficult to be persistent. That is why I enjoyed the WMCA or a public gym before COVID screwed all that up. I enjoyed the variety of different machines and to be honest looking at hot women. :lol: The WMCA here was co-ed. :lol:

I know at least another year here or maybe August or September 2021 but not sure. It depends on what is available. I wish I had a friend that likes doing EV conversions and working on Hybrids. Upgrading the electric parts for up to 50 mph would be an interesting hobby. A state where cultivation of Cannabis is legal. A small hydroponic vegetable garden. defiantly a solar panel system for off the grid power.

Large custom built aquariums using marine grade plywood and real 1 inch thick glass. 200 to 400 gallon and woodworking. Building furniture and custom isobaric bandpass horn loaded bass enclosures are some of my hobbies going back to the 80s , 90s and 2,000s. I started with e bikes in 2013. I was also big into computers building them and setting them up. That was the 2,000s up until today.

Independent study of advanced robotics and Ai intelligence is a long term goal as well as becoming a cyborg by transferring or uploading my brain into a cyborg. I wish I could go back to school for nano technology , quantum computer technology and advanced robotics. Yes I love quantum physics and watching cheesy B rated sy fy movies about every night between midnight and 7AM. :lol: I like Game of Thrones and Vikings also. A big Walking Dead fan and lord of the rings fan too. :lol:

I miss Sons of Anarchy though. I never missed an episode. The Sopranos and OZ were also shows I watched every episode of. Growing up my favorite super hero was Spiderman. Now I like Iron Man and am upset Motrin Downey wont be making more. I watch lots of TV and am a fan of WWE since childhood. The Terminator movies with Arnold schwarzenegger are my favorites of all time

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. New eZip motor ? How about that plus new eZip handle bars.

Yes. A chain drive mount will give you a hint of what the final outcome will be when you move the bike backwards and the chain turns. If there is a lot of chain movement or it makes a lot of noise it is not lined up. The 26" dual suspension seems to be perfect as far as chain alignment. Also the chain is not as tight as I thought which was tight as a banjo but It seems to be perfect but riding it is still the true test.

I do not know when that will happen as I know it won't fit in the van and still has no brakes until I can get it to the bike shop to get hooked up or I can get the guy down stairs that has a gas powered bike to hook them up. I have not spoke with him in awhile. I hope he is ok.

The Currie has new handle bars. I took the low profile handle bars off the Haro V3. They are now on the Currie. It is not perfect but think it can work.

I tightened the Allen bolts really tight. I need this to work. The 750W gear reduction motor was also re mounted and it was not easy . If that works I can drive the bike now and it should fit in the van. The Bafang on the front wont work until I order the control module. I have one motor cable and a 4 to 1 cable on the way for the other Bafang motor but this motor needs the 4 in 1 cable and a display module A.S.A.P. not a month from now. I have to order a 3 wire thumb throttle also. I have an extra 4 wire but all my 3 wire thumb throttles are on e bikes. I could take one off but would rather order one. Maybe two so I have an extra one.

If I order from Amazon everything could be here in a few days. The two cables DA posted may not show up until March but was not a waste of money as I have two Bafang motors and will probably order at least one more as I checked today and there is still many available.

I need to order the 13S - 7P pack for the rear chain drive and can use my new or old 10S pack for the Bafang. I have 40 amp circuit breakers and will be hooking one up tomorrow for the Bafang. The Bafang will get me 18 to 20 mph with the 22 amp controller and at 53V it is 30 mph capable with the chain drive.

I hope to do a test run by this week end or first of next week with the chain drive and hopefully less than two weeks the Bafang hub motor will be turning.

I have to see if I can hook up a detachable cargo basket. Not sure about front , back or both. I had to remove the rear rack when re installing the chain drive motor.

I ordered two 60 amp circuit breakers but one had a terminal broke off when I got it. I had one for the 1,000W hub motor and used the one good 60 amp breaker for the new 36V - 1,000W chain drive on the front of the 26" dual suspension. I have four 40 amp circuit breakers. I was going to use a 60 amp for the 750W gear reduction motor. However doing the math a 40 amp will work as 42V * 40 amps = 1,680W.

At 53V it will be 53 * 40 = 2,120W. There is not a watt limit on the circuit breakers but there is a amp limit but don't see how the 750W - 36V gear reduction could flip the breaker as doubt it will ever come close to 40 amps. It might pull over 1,800W though at 53V going up a steep hill so 1,800W / 53V = 33.9 amps.

Yea. I should be good with two 40 amp breakers for the Currie. Also once the Bafang motor works it will help out the chain drive in the back a little bit. The chain drive will pull a few less amps with the Bafang. The Currie also has the dual drive hub so can do a pedal chain and gears if I pay the bike shop to hook them up.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Amazon is good, especially sold by Amazon because their returns are so easy and free.
I've returned one item out of a dozen items.

I actually rode by the Calgary Amazon warehouse out by the big mall in the north, outside the city limits. I'd take the train deep into NE shanties to the end of the line and it'd be some ride to get there. Highway riding for a mile, over a no shoulder bridge to a gravel road. It'd be sure interesting to see the Amazon warehouse garbage bins.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1yqcagavfY

 

[latecurtis]

Have you ever had a little thing just bug you because it is not exactly right but yet fully functional ?

I had a hell of a time getting that motor re- mounted. I succeeded about a month ago I think before I started working on the 26" dual suspension.

It had a two pieces of 2 by 6 before when I built it back in NY. I rode it a couple hundred miles I think and a few times the chain would come loose and would hit it on the end of the 2 by 6 bracket with a rock and tighten it up with two wrenches I brought to tighten it up. I always made it home with one motor.

See the top picture bottom center. It is an L bracket I used large vice grips to fold in half for strength and ran two bolts thru the wood as the edge of the wood bracket was only a small part over the bicycle frame. Everything worked but the bracket was too short. An extra half an inch was desirable but cutting a new wood bracket was not desirable as the motor and wheel sprockets are lined up perfect and the chain is not too tight. In fact it is perfect.

So instead of messing with perfection I IMPROVED perfection by adding that extra half an inch I really needed. The fifth picture down starting from the top will show that bracket again in the center a little towards the top of the photo. It was also a top view with the old Cannon camera I beat up a long time ago. I have a lot of respect from Cannon products as my battery ran out and was drunk and smashed it against a wall back in NY about 4 years ago.. It looks beat up but still works. More than I can say from that Wall-Mart piece of shit in the dump now.

In this type of motor installation the mounting bracket the motor is mounted to is a labially. A motor with out the bracket would be perfect for four 5" pieces of 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 pressure treated wood and three of those steel strap adjustable clamps I used for the motor on the front of the 26" dual suspension. However with the mounting plate there was very little room to do it so used a jig saw to cut the 5" pieces of 2 by 6 before so it would fit around the wheel and seat post. It was a challenge for someone with limited mechanical skills.

Re- mounting that motor was also rather challenging and took about an entire day. Now I do not have to worry about that little thing that bothered me. I can sleep much better. After I paint it. The motor brackets are getting a second coat of oil paint also. I still have to order replacement Currie stickers. The Currie will be my main ride again for awhile.

The bottom picture shows the main reason for re- installing that motor in the first place. The brake caliper under the motor brackets which in a last desperate attempt to make it work installed it the day I re- installed the motor. If you look at the first pages on this post the 1,000W motor I installed to the stock Currie rack did in fact function but was also extremally unorthodox. This motor mount is also insanely unorthodox. It was created out of sheer desperation. :lol: The first one lasted about two years and NEVER failed, I uninstalled it for a 20" bike due to stairs. I was on the second floor then. Now the Currie becomes the #1 bike again so I don't have to haul it up to a third floor apartment. It will fit in the van.

It won't have to share the spot or become my #2 ride until I but an 8 by 4 foot trailer and build a wood box with heavy duty door and alarm system.

With 53V it will do 30 mph if I want it too and 20 mph efficiently once the Bafang motor up front is hooked up. The one thing I wont be doing is trying to make it a cargo bike, The low profile handle bars make any large front basket most difficult and with the extra weight in the back of a gear reduction motor not good for a cargo basket as too much weight. The Bafang motor up front is not heavy enough. A small factory basket in the front will happen for my lock and chain , a 12V power supply and my 1,700 lumen headlight. Not much cargo will fit though but for 24 bucks can get an extra large back pack or just use the van once I by pass the heater core. Actually the stop leak may have worked. I am just not driving much distance with it.

I am not dumb enough to try and haul that other heavy beast I built down those stairs that does not even have a single working brake. The Currie front disk brake works perfect now even though the hub motor on the front is dead until I get the cable and module for it. I will be riding it soon as the roads are clear now but that could change in a few short hours. I heard we are getting a lot of snow soon.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 35 mph ??? 40 mph ??? 50 mph ??? HELL YA !!!!!!








Yea.

I already own the 9 tooth 8 mm motor sprocket.

And the 8mm chain.

I just need a 3 kilowatt controller that will do 53V and the 72 tooth motor sprocket and the Haro V3 will be going 40 mph.

I tried ordering a 2 kilowatt controller for 52 bucks but did not go thru. That is a good thing though as when I did the math I see I will need a 3 kilowatt controller for 40 mph.

Something went wrong with green dot as it would not let me order the battery pack. I deposited 260 in the green dot card and with the tax I was short after buying the display module and thumb throttle. I had to use my card that my stimuli's money is on.

The motor went thru on the green dot card though but not the controller and doing the math 260 - 129 = 131. I should have 131 on it but a 52 dollar controller was declined.

I was hoping 2,000W was enough for 40 mph. Probably a good thing it did not go thru. I have to figure out everything out when I wake up during business hours. The seller that is shipping the 48V battery pack would not ship to my PO box and sent them a message asking their method of shipping. They messaged me back and ship UPS and not USPS so I looked up UPS access center and it is like a block from Wall-Greens where I pick up my FED X orders. I added the address and the order went thru.

Also the 4 in 1 cable and 9 pin motor cables DA. posted are at the post office. I did not have to wait until March.

As soon as I get the module and thumb throttle from Amazon I will be riding the Currie. That could be sometime this week if the snow melts.

As soon as the 13S - 7P pack shows up I will probably be able to hit 35 mph with the 1,800W brushless motor with the 48V - 1,500W controller on the 20" bike in the van. Mabye not though as the battery is not 1,500W it is rated at 1,000W.

I can start building 13S packs with those cells though.

In about a month or so I will be going 40 mph with the Haro V3. I will need to build a 13S - 10P pack which I can hook up in parallel to the 13S - 7P pack I just ordered. It will give me the amps needed for 35 and 40+ mph.

Thanks.

LC. out.

2/1/2021 - 8:28 AM.

I called green dot and 60+ was added to my account. It must have been for the motor before I changed the address to the UPS access point.



Anyway I am going at least 40 mph. Maybe 45 mph or 46 mph if I build a 16S pack with 320 cells. 16S - 20P. That is a lot of work though but if I manage to get this controller and the motor will take 72V then 50 mph could be a possibility.

Thanks.

LC. out.

9:52 AM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mf_5XfF7Bk

Yea.

Pretty sure that is an RC motor.

Sunder or anyone with the correct 3D printer should be able to copy that. Not sure what motor they use. At 1,500W it sure is not an Astro motor though. Last time I checked Astro motors were > 20 kilowatts. Also very light.

Perhaps Hubzilla , the Cro - Motor becomes a wildebeest and 70 to 100 mph is obtainable thru better technology. Astro motors are at least 10 years ahead of their time. With this scientific breakthrough which am sure they patent . But a 3D printer can copy the design. Replace their cheap 2 horsepower motor with a > 20 kilowatt Astro motor and buy some good life insurance and a full crash suite. Evil Knievel will roll around in his grave wanting to ride it, :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.

I remember being told that a 9T motor sprocket is "full retard mode" I did not order it. It came on the 1,800W brushless motor and I removed it to use aan 11T for #40 roller chain for that build as I used a 56 tooth spoke sprocket for the 20" bike in the van.

If I do order a 11 tooth sprocket I would not be able to use the 72 tooth wheel sprocket as it would be over geared, At 60 volts the motor puts out 4,800 rpm. 4,240 @ 53V. Custom sprockets run double the price of regular sprockets. However two 11T motor sprockets are not too much money.

I am about 99% positive that front mount chain drive on the 26" dual suspension is perfect. After a thorough test drive and a few videos I am thinking about a second 3 kilowatt brushless motor for the front of the Haro V3 for 56 mph.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Why do you want to go so fast?

 

[latecurtis]

I don't really like these 2 stroke motors people are putting on their bicycles these days.

The guy down stairs has one that will go 25 or 30 mph but I saw him talking to his friend a couple weeks ago who has one claimed to do 45 mph.

It is kind of the same thing which I experienced back in the early 80s when I had my 73 Dodge Charger sitting in my drive way. A 318 V8 with 340 magnum heads , a holly 650 double pumper , hood scoop with Black Jack headers and a fresh paint job. I ran the highest octane possible and there was an additive which boosted octane even more, I ordered 10.5 to 1 compression pistons for it also and a 3/4 race cam. Stock they were around 175 HP but I was pushing about 300 at least when I was done.

A Chevy Malibu with a 350 went by the house honking the horn. I blew it completely off the road the next day. It is how I feel when I see one of those two strokes. As a matter of fact I would love nothing more than to fly by a 125 cc dirt bike some Sunday afternoon. :lol: Those two strokes are legendary for being quick though so might need the Cro motor to beat them but at 6 kilowatts and 56 mph gearing it should beat any motor strapped to a bicycle frame.

Yea. I was a motor head back then. Once a motor head always a motor head. I never learned how to ride a dirt bike and know I would have a really hard time with all those gears. I never learned a standard transmission either. It is another reason why I like electric motors. I do not even like shifting pedal gears on a bicycle. They always need adjusting. What I do like is making someone eat my dust though when I fly by them. I might have to mount a camera on the back of an e bike some day so I can see the look of disbelief when I fly by one of those gas powered bicycles.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

OK. The good news is I did not have to solder anything. The 9 pin motor wire has a plug for the sensor wires and is a perfect match. Also the motor wires plug in to the controller.

The power wires are obvious and looks like the white plug with red , green and black are for a 3 wire throttle.

I am not sure what the other wires are for and do not want to hook something up wrong !!!

If I were to make an educated guess from looking at other brushless controllers I would say the two black plugs with red , green and black are for brake sensors. Since there are two it would make sense. 99% sure about the throttle so it leaves a black plug with a red and black wire and a white plug with a blue and black wire.

DAN. If you are there it is a controller you sent to me awhile ago back when I lived in NY. I kept it for years. I want to use it for one of the Bafang motors so I do not need a display module or a 4 in 1 wire.

I am not sure what the amps are but think I remember you said it was about 500 watts. It should not be more than 22 amps then and ok for a Bafang motor. There is no labels or anything but sure would save me a lot of time and money if it could work. I could hook it up tomorrow if someone here could just let me know.

I do not want to guess and burn out the unit.

Is there a power lock ???

Is there any wires I need to hook together to make this controller work ???

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Well a "motorhead" can change a heater core beneath the dash in the center console foot well area with a few layers on and grease under their fingernails.... I think those daze are long gone.

Them 2 stroke bicycle guys, I've run into one or two but they seem to be drunk and smelly with a dui story or 5, I guess thats why those motor kits are $150 shipped. They need to be able to hit up the liquor store on a moments notice, I guess they dont realize the "not at comfort" or shall we say diss ease, if there was just a doctor in the house or perhaps a stock speculator with a motorcycle and a side car to travel around. Fun times!

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.

Dan sent me that controller a few years back. I am about to PM him.

I am hoping to hook up that controller soon. I am about to go to bed. Just popped my last beer.

I think that I need to short the black plug in the center that has the red and black wire. The only other choice is the white plug with the blue and black wire. ( far right on bottom )

The other black plugs look like brake sensors. I got the motor and sensor wires hooked up to the cable. Also separated the power wires (top right ) I am sure the throttle is the white plug with red , green and black wires. I see only those two plugs left. Will it work the way it is or are those plugs important ????????

Can someone tell me if it will it work the way it is when I hook up a throttle.

The throttle is in the mail and should be here in a day or two.

 

[markz]

Throttle is 3 wires
Those other sets that are the same, probably brake sensor.
Right hand side is power, phase and halls.

 

[latecurtis]

Throttle is 3 wires
Those other sets that are the same, probably brake sensor.
Right hand side is power, phase and halls.

The five sensor wires plug in to the plug on the opposite end of the 9 pin cable. That cable also has three connecters that plug into the three connecters coming from the controller.

I see the two brake sensor wires and the throttle wires.

I just do not know what the two wires with the question marks are for. I HATE cutting plugs off when I do not need to. I did that with that 52 buck controller for the throttle and set me back close to 100 bucks as I could have returned that controller for an 8 dollar cable and not had to spend 30 on a display module and 8 bucks for the 4 to 1 cable to hook the display module up so I am not cutting any more plugs without getting some answers.

Also I am NOT splicing wires together unless I know that I need to to turn the controller on as I do NOT want to burn out the controller. I will try it without the plugs hooked up once the thumb throttle I ordered shows up in a couple days. I still have to solder the power wires to XT60 female and hook up the DC breaker and solder a male to the power wire on the controller. I will have to cut off the white plug going to the power wires from the controller and solder on the male XT60. I have no choice on that.

10:22 PM.

OK.

The soldering is done. Step 2 is liquid electrical tape and step 3 is the thin strips of regular electrical tape. Then I just have to wait for the thumb throttle to test both motors. I can't test them with the controller as the display module and throttle are both showing up the same day.

I have owned both Bafang hub motors over a month now and have yet to test them. I am slow and methodical but I make sure all my connections are soldered and insulated. I do not speed build and skip important steps. Basically short cuts cause shorts. :lol:

So if anyone knows what those wires are for in the pic above please let me know. I got about two or three days before I will be testing both Bafang motors.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Small black/red combo is probably ignition to turn the controller on. The other ? pair of wires could be ABS high, ABS low, learn if sensorless but usually thats white.

You should really find a place to buy heat shrink, its just so much better then electrical tape. Hobbyking sells heat shrink, if you want to stock up on xt60 or xt90 connectors.

Tape up those wire screw downs for your breaker or switch.

Getting rid of the dirt cheap connectors that come with the controller is probably a wise move, even if you install 4mm bullets or molex connectors they are a million times better. It doesn't cost a lot, does not take up a lot of time and you wont have to hassle with loose pins of the stock connectors.

 

[latecurtis]

Small black/red combo is probably ignition to turn the controller on. The other ? pair of wires could be ABS high, ABS low, learn if sensorless but usually thats white.

Thank you.

That was my educated guess.

I am just happy you confirmed it. You probably have years more experience on me when it comes to brushless controllers.

I started building e bikes in 2013 and did not have a clue when I started out. Basically I have learned everything I know today from this forum.

I may have been able to hook chain drives up as I use unorthodox ways using the famous trial and error method but I would not know how to hook anything up electrical and if it were not for DA and many others would never learned about gearing so even if I did manage to build an e bike without this forum the results would be a calamity. I would probably have burned out more than one motor.

Also I would probably still be using those heavy lead ass batteries as that is what the Currie came with stock. Two 10 Ah SLAs. The only thing I succeeded doing the few months before joining ES was paying some older guy I met who was an electrical engineer like 250 bucks just to hook up a 36V controller and mount three 22 Ah SLAs in the triangle of the Currie after the 10 Ah batteries died.

It was a few weeks after that and on my way back home from making a payment towards the 250 bucks that I burned up the original stock 450W Currie motor going up a steep hill. I just had no clue what I was doing back then.

Now I can build e bikes even if they do not live up to some members standards if there was a nuclear or zombie apocalypse and the world was like mad max I could at least build something to get me around as long as there was a way to charge my batteries.
I would really like to invest in solar panels just in case the grid goes down some day. I know solar panels are not cheap and being on a budget could not afford an elaborate system.

However It is defiantly time for me to slow down on new builds. I will have 6 running e bikes when I build the Currie with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and once I hit 40 mph I think it is time to stop for awhile. I really do not need to go 50 or 60 mph or even 45 mph. I just need to shoot one clear video of me hitting 40 mph if only for a few seconds on the flat. Anyone can do it down a hill even without a motor.

If I were to spend like 50 to 100 bucks a month on a single quality solar panel in 12 months should be able to put something together. I do not plan on living in this tiny apartment for 375 all utilities included forever so if I could generate my own electricity in say two years of investing small amounts each month then if I were to get a trailer on a small piece of land and run everything off solar power that would be a great accomplishment.

I will want cheap but decent quality solar panels and when I build all the packs I need for my e bikes I can start building packs for storing solar energy. If fact that old guy who I finally did pay the 250 bill off to had a solar charging system and two large solar panels on his garage roof. It is how he charged the 22 Ah SLAs. I know DA is very knowledgeable when it comes to solar power and is something I feel the need to ease into. I want to learn more about it and in a few months after I build a couple decent size packs for e bikes I can start building packs for storing solar power and hopefully start buying at least one decent solar panel each month. A two year goal to have a large enough system to run a small trailer completely off the grid.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I do not know how much solar panels are, but you'd have to look at the rate of return for solar panels. From the glances down the aisle a 150W is like $3-4/watt (cdn). Then look into how long a solar panel lasts. Might be good for a overlander chevy suburban while out in the desert. Northern climates dont get as much solar rays.

Are you going full tree hugger on us Curtis?

 

[Sunder]

Solar panel still have a pretty long payback period for good quality ones. Cheap ones can be fire risks, and their performance drops pretty fast after a year or two. Due to a pretty hefty government subsidy, I could either install a $6k Chinese system, which after subsidy was down to $1k, or a $14k system, which after subsidy is down to $9k. So a huge difference in price. The reviews on independent sites for the $1k installer were pretty good, but I joined I group on Facebook called "Crap Solar", which is mostly electricians who post up "funny" pictures of failed and dangerous installs, and this cheap mob and their panels came up a lot.

So, make sure you're buying Tier One panels like Samsung, LG, Kyocera - Japanese or Korean made in other words.

Powering a trailer can be relatively easy depending on how you design it. If you take out heating from the equation, most things don't use much power, because there are few things that have idle loads in a trailer as compared to a home. That is, you don't have things like a TV, set top box, wifi router, each taking 1-15w when turned off.

Just make sure you get a good quality inverter, with a high efficiency, and just as important - a low idle load itself. I bought my parents's holiday home an efficient Low Frequency inverter. But that efficiency is measured at something like 90% of it's rated 3000W load. When there is no load on it, it still consumes 40w. 40w x 24 hours is already nearly 1kwh, 1/4 of the battery capacity I had planned for the house.

 

[markz]

Renting will depend on what the landlord says when installing solar panels, otherwise you'll need to angle panels in whatever direction your patio or balcony faces, and again you are in a northern climate with limited sun rays for solar.

edit - You could add solar panels to your minivan, but there is a risk in doing that depending on what neighborhood you live in. Is it really worth the cost of inverter, panels, controller and the risk to charge $0.05 worth of electricity from the grid costing $0.15 every month.

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 3View attachment 2

The Bafang motors dont work.

They are dead.

Junk.

I hooked up the display module and no power to the motor.

It did turn on at first but no power to the motor

There was a small red plug coming from the controller that looked like it could be power lock so I cut it and spliced those two wires together and then the display module would not even turn on so I unhooked them and the display module would turn on but not stay on , the lights went out.

I am done with it. I guess I will just be using the rear chain drive motor for the Currie.

I am throwing both motors as well as the junk e bikeling controller and stupid 4 in 1 cable in the dumpster out back.

What a bunch of garbage

I totally wasted my money.

It really sucks as one of the motors was a gift to someone who really needs a good running e bike.

Please spread the word. Battery clearing house is a scam. A rip off. They robbed me.

E bikeling display modules however do work but only with e bikeling motors. I will save it for a spare only if I can wire it to the e bikeling motors I have.

frock THEM !!! Battery Clearinghouse sucks. I am glad I did not order any more of their junk burned out Bafang motors.

Someone needs to be punched in the face!!!!!

LC. out.

2/4/21 - 4:40 PM.

I called e bikeling.

According to them the yellow plug coming from the controller which is the same color as the plug on the throttle I cut off a week ago before I got the cable is for a pedal assist and the orange plug on the 4 in 1 cable is the throttle.

I wish I knew that BEFORE I soldered the throttle wires to the controller DAN sent.

I have one throttle and two controllers so I guess it is time to use those small male and female bullet connecters so I can test these controllers. Basically I am sick of soldering wires just to have to cut them later. I need to start using solderless connecters. In fact solderless connecters could in fact be soldered by applying a little solder to the wire after connecting them. I could also use hot glue to prevent the connecters from separating.



I originally bought those connecters to use in the large 18650 packs I was planning on building. In fact I still might be doing that. I have been thinking hard about exactly how to build these 18650 packs.

I ordered 40 - 6S balance plugs and a pack of 100 connecters. It allows me access to each individual 18650 cell. Two 6S - 60 cell packs are 120 cells and with my design can balance each individual cell NO cells will be balanced in parallel with another cell.

It was and is a very elaborate design and extremely versatile as can pull any 6S - 1P pack out of one of the 6S - 10P pack and replace it with a better 6S - 1P pack in a couple minutes. That is something impossible to do when soldering bus bars or tabs to parallel packs.

The big down side however is mounting and stabilizing the cells in a way that does not take up a ridiculous amount of space. That is where the thinking process comes in and the plan I have is to build a custom enclosure by cutting sheets of plastic and assembling a container using hot glue. (bottom pics).

Looking down at the container I will need to cut and glue 9 plastic separators. One picture shows where each connecter will be. The other shows a more accurate view as the cells need to be secure so they do not move around.

The container will be a plastic storage container that I will but for food or other storage and will have to hot glue in the 9 separators so it will have a plastic lid which I will be able to remove and easily remove any 6S - 1P pack that has bad cells and replace. With 20 balance plugs each 6S - 1P pack can be balance charged separately. or all 60 cells can be bulk charger at 6S.

It is lots of work but when dealing with old recycled cells with many different capacity it just makes sense as no BMS could ever accomplish it unless I used a BMS for each 6S - 1P pack which would be expensive and ridiculous.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

So the motor windings are burnt?