new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

There is no way to know.

I called e bikeling and they said the orange plug on the 4 to 1 wire was throttle. Not the yellow plug coming from the controller. That was for pedal assist.

So I spent the whole day splicing , soldering and taping the throttle wires to hook it up to the wires going to the orange plug like e bikeling said. Actually they told me to order another thumb throttle. I said hell no. The last one would not hook up as it was a frocking female plug. I did not see any with a male plug.

I made sure the other wires for the pedal assist were not touching and taped them off. When I turned the display module on I got blinking lights and still no power to the motor.

I am DONE !!!

I BEAT THE CONTROLLER AND DISPLAY MODULE WITH A HAMMER FOR 5 MINUTES. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

The e bikeling controller and display module are total pieces of shit. The Bafang motors are cheap Chinese junk.



11:04.

I guess either the controller Dan sent is shot or the Bafang motor is burned out.

I wasted another two hours or so soldering , applying liquid electric tape and three long thin strips of real electric tape over each solder joint for nothing.

I have done all I can do with these Bafang motors. I am ready to either throw them out or ship them out.

Ernie's bike shops are close but was told they can not test the motors so the only other e bike shop around here is Pete's electric bikes and he is about an hours drive. He said he could test them but I am not driving all the way up there. I wasted way too much time on cheap Chinese garbage motors.

All I know is about 24 hours ago when I first turned on the display module hooked to the e bikeling controller it turned on just like both display modules did on both my e bikeling motors. When the motor did not work and I twisted those two wires together coming from the controller thinking they were for the power lock the display module never worked after that. Today when I hooked it up exactly like the guy from e bikeling said the display module still did not work.

Obviously I shorted something out in the controller anyway so destroying it with a hammer really did not matter as it would have never worked anyway.

I just do not know where I should send the motors. If anyone wants them for parts I could ship them if shipping is not a lot. Other wise I will throw them out as I do not have the room here in this small apartment for junk. Maybe someone can rebuild the motors. I am not sure.

If someone can actually get them to work then please let me know exactly how as I would like to know if this Battery clearinghouse place is selling burnt motors. If so they need to be reported. That is not right.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Showed you proper hookup weeks ago!

Controller breakout cable

 

[latecurtis]

I did hook it up like that today.




I guess the 1,000W hub motor was too big to go on the front of the Currie. :lol:

I got the bright idea to make it fit after drinking too many beers.

I guess I will be adding those forks to my pile of junk for the dumpster.

That is where the Bafang motors are going. I do not have room for junk in this small apartment.



Yesterday may have been the most destructive day in the history of my e bike work shop.

As that picture shows I did hook up the throttle to the wires going to the plug in the picture DA showed.

I really do not know why it would not work. I know I made the mistake of hooking the throttle to the pedal assist 24 hours before I hooked the throttle to the cable like I was supposed to but do not know why that would stop the controller from working when I hooked up right . It just makes no sense. I never ever hooked any brake sensor wires to any controller , brush or brushless.

Also it does not explain why the controller Dan sent wont work either. I really don't know what I should do now. I need to know what I should do. Should I just throw out the Bafang motors and call it a day. I doubt I can get my money back from battery Clearing house.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

9:50 PM

Well I guess nobody knows if I hooked up the controller DAN sent wrong ?????

I do not see any other way of hooking it up.

I posted clear up close pictures of the wiring. Still nobody is posting. I sincerely doubt DAN would send me a bad controller. I am sure DAN tested it before sending it to me. Therefore I have to suspect that the motor is burnt out. Not sure about the other Bafang motor. I did not hook that one up yet.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Well folks. I have evidence that the failure of the e bikeling controller was not my fault.

DA said that I did not hook it up right and that may be true the first time but after speaking with someone from e bikeling I hooked it up according to the picture DA. posted.

The fault was not DAs either. It was not my fault or his as I did research and the fault is 100% the seller and manufacturer of the 4 to 1 cable.

I will make sure they go out of business. I am sick and tired of people making me look like a fool. Like I do not know what I am doing.



Obviously I disconnected and re connected the cable. Also it was brand spanking new. So it rules out any error on my part. If the controller was burned out from hooking it up wrong there would be a burnt odor. I know as I ran a controller when it was on fire back in 2014 or 2015. That was very early on on this post.

I am sick and tired of people putting me down and saying I do not know what I am doing. I have built more e bikes than most people. Also I will find out if these Bafang motors are burned out no matter what it takes or how much money it will cost me. I want the truth. That is priceless to me as I take pride in my skills building electric bikes. It is that simple. If nobody wants to help me that sucks but will still find the truth.

Right now I am doing damage control. I fixed the broken forks on the Currie. I also installed the 26" front wheel that was on the Currie before I put the Bafang motor on it. I am also keeping both DC breakers and throttles as I am hooking my 36V 800W controller to the other DC breaker and will keep both thumb throttles so I can switch from 48 to 36V and run both packs for longer distance. Also is twice as reliable as if one controller , throttle or battery pack fails I have a back up to get home.

I need to get to the bottom of these Bafang motors though. Not sure where this Battery Clearing house place is but if it is any where near Ohio and I find out they sent me two burned out motors their company might better have dental insurance as someone might be picking their teeth up off the floor.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

and the fault is 100% the seller and manufacturer of the 4 to 1 cable.

That is the reason I dislike those connectors.

Another reason is I find it hard to line up the arrows.

Another reason is when I had the KT display Conhismotor kit the dumb connector had bent pins from use, your not always going to line it up straight.

Another reason is the entire connector bent a little while after the pin bent.

So I just snip those dumb connectors off, and either hard wire the connection with solder, heat shrink AND electrical tape or find a suitable normal connector like XT90 for my big fingers, or 5.5+mm bullets because those are easier for my cheap ass soldering iron to fill the bowl with solder without over filling and 70% ruining the sliding action.

If I was to do things on a regular basis, I'd just use a mechanical fastener and find suitable connector.

Gotta line up the black on black 1mm size arrow. Plus the connected connector can bend, motor wire twist tied to fork and can catch on bushes. I dont ride much through bushes, still dont know how mine bent.

 

[markz]

You'd probably have better luck with electrical tape and the tiny Molex connectors (as seen in the pictures above provided) if they made them for 30A or whatever your rocking. Even then the wiring configuration might be wrong.

Thats why I do mine wire per wire. Look at each color wire, compare, think. Does something look amiss, if so be more careful.
Fried a few throttles with differently color wire from manufacturer and my hack jobs. Now I dont add differently colored wire. Try half ASSitly to do things right. Unless its the phase wires :wink:

I also just dont snip willy nilly, I cut back the insulation jacket and cut one wire at a time. Only takes once to get some sparks and black marks on your cutters. :lol: Its a habit, but yeah if the motors disconnected and in my office for a relace or spoke replacement I'll snip em all at once and clean the hub motor including between the flanges, the rim (inside the rim, rim walls and otherside) and even the spokes if its muddy enough.

But I also buy my controllers and throttles from the same place every time.

Also, I dont do displays. The KT display type deals add to much complexity and more wire, more wire to go wrong. Not only that there are the configuration settings within the KT display you need to setup. Too much work, besides a big ass screen on your handlebars, eye candy for some crackhead. Anything that sticks out is eye candy for some thief.

I'd love to watch a hidden camera of people walking by your ebikes chained up to a bicycle rack.

Used to have people gawk and gaze and some brightly colored Townie Electra with the mxus hub motor in the back. I must admit wires were everywhere with a brick of duct tape battery. People would come from the sidewalk to the middle of the road commenting on it. Funnest of fun was sitting at a table eating and watching people stare and gaze at my rides. Not fun! Not fun at all, maybe for the first month. Then it got old, it got real old real quick. To be honest, black on black on black ebikes, even with a bit of wire showing makes a huge difference. Now imagine a setup with a half ass decent job of tidy wires, hidden rear hub behind a rear rack bag. Thats the whole deal right there, no one notices a thing. No more gazes, no more questions :thumb: :thumb: You want even more stealth? Maybe the fuzz and you are not compitable, Install a pas so you have to pedal. I am sure there is a way to install pas, with a 3 to 5 way switch. I dont think I ever used pas. I had the KT display kit from conhismotor but I never installed the magnet ring on the bottom bracket. Fake pedalling works well but you'd forget to pedal when the targets are not obvious.

 

[latecurtis]

Well I always have a few tricks up my sleeve.



I have four hub motor controllers.

The 1,000W for the 1,000W hub motor which works with 36V.

The e bikeling controllers each hooked to a 500W e bikeling motor and the 800W hub motor controller on the 20" Turbo bike out in the van. All will work with 36V.

I will find out if these Bafang motors will work or not. I should have thought of that as soon as I got the Bafang motors but would have needed that cable. I did not have to order all that other garbage though until I tested the motors.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

The motors should be fine, unless you smoked them or they have internal controllers that are bad. Then you just rip out the internal controllers. I think you talked about that but I'm not going to go back through the pages to find out if your motors had internal controllers or not. I guess some other factors could come into play for motors not working, not only smoked or cooked motors but a winding thats had its insutlation scraped off and touching another, or broken a few to many magnets, or magnets reversed. I've had a magnet crack on my mxus but it still worked fine. Otherwise your dealing with mechanical stuff like bad bearings which motor will work but be loud.

----------------------------

You could have a 4 or 5 way switch or rotary dial to get the various power levels for a pas and no display once so ever.

Speaking of which....
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=95624&p=1559441&hilit=toggle+switch+pas#p1559441

If you wanted something a bit fancier, you could add a rotary or rocker or toggle switch with multiple poles that switches to different "bottom" resistors in that divider, providing different amounts of throttle for different "PAS levels".

This kind of circuit is pretty simple, generally, but may get complicated enough if you don't know electronics already that it'd be easier (and much smaller) to do with an MCU and coding something out of existing libraries. (if you know any coding at all).

Seems like to much work, unless it wasnt. Then a 3 way speed limiter switch might be in order. Very common.

 

[latecurtis]

I never heard of an internal controller. If there is such a thing why would a 9 pin connecter come from the motor ? I would think there would just be a negative and positive to hook up a battery ????


I need to put the 1,000W hub motor back on the 26" dual suspension. The Currie is fully functional now and can achieve 20 mph with the motor on the back at 10S and about 30 mph at 13S and my 13S - 7P pack will be here any day now.

The 3 kilowatt motor will also be here any day now and the 3 kilowatt brushless controller is at the post office but won't be open until Monday. I still need to order the 72 tooth sprocket from electric scooter parts. Gearing with the 9 tooth motor sprocket is 41 mph and power is 2,650 watts. When I order the wheel sprocket I am ordering a 10 tooth motor sprocket and will have 45 mph gearing.



Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I never heard of an internal controller. If there is such a thing why would a 9 pin connecter come from the motor ? I would think there would just be a negative and positive to hook up a battery ????

Yes some hub motors come with internal controllers.
I dont know for some reason I thought you rewired yours or something.
Could be thinking of something totally different, probably so. Who knows.
The days are just a blur these daze.
Cabin Fever they say.

I guess winter's got to come at some point, and its here. Nicks Garage in Laval Quebec is getting the same blast of white from what I saw on his yt video from 8 hrs ago, your probably getting the deep freeze to. Meanwhile in another thread they're complaining about warm winds blowing the wrong way via el nina. And Chalo will jump in and talk about the warm dust bunnies in Austin TX, no doubt. Ah I just checked, your at -1C/30F and no wc so your still at t-shirts and shorts weather.

The torture, yeah you missed the small #'s. Not -4F no no, its called small print and its called WIND CHILL -20F/-28C, ouch! I froze my butt off just getting groceries today. Thanks to burning coal it was brief.

 

[markz]

The 3 kilowatt motor will also be here any day now and the 3 kilowatt brushless controller is at the post office but won't be open until Monday.

The day after the big game, will you be not hung over?
I do not recognize the half time singer, but listened to some of his songs on yt after watching his Last Meal video (posted today) on yt that came up randomly on the algorythm, The Weekend from Canada. I think Metallica would have been a better choice but they havent come out with anything new or good in a long time. Plus need something more upbeat for covid times, hence probably why The Weekend.

When I order the wheel sprocket I am ordering a 10 tooth motor sprocket and will have 45 mph gearing.

That will wear the chain more. Whats the smallest you can get? The smaller you go the more wear on the chain.
Plus more noise.

41 mph and power is 2,650 watts.

45 mph gearing.

How fast do you really want to go?

 

[latecurtis]

Well I currently have a 9 tooth 8mm sprocket and that will make 41 mph gearing.

A 10 tooth is 45 mph gearing. The wheel sprocket is 72 tooth and the largest electric scooter parts has unless I want to pay double for a custom sprocket. I really don't.

Also I have three e bikes to test drive that are built.

The Giant Roam.

The 26" dual suspension.

The Currie.

I also want to test drive the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor with the 1,500W controller. I rode it a couple times but with a 10S battery pack. 42 - 36V. I want to see how much faster it is with 13S - 53 - 48V. I may also hook up a speedometer. I have one brand new in the package.

Then there is the 18650 project. I have a lot of 6S packs to build for 12S. I have about 200 cells and only just started extracting cells from those life vest packs.

As far as the football game I am not sure I will get it as I do not have cable. I have an Amazon firestick. I have not watched football in about 3 years. I was a Patriots fan for about 10 years though but am kind of disgusted that Tom Brady left the Patriots.

I am not sure about the future of the two Bafang motors. I doubt I will be putting one back on the Currie. The rear motor will do 30 mph as soon as I hook up the 53V pack.

I have Easy Street. The 700c hybrid that has no motor however I either lost or used the U shape washer when I reinstalled the 1,000W hub motor on the back of the 26" dual suspension. I will have to order more torque arms. I am really not sure how a bike with a 700cc wheel on the back and a 26" wheel on the front will ride.

In fact I may not even have any use for the Bafang motors now. The forks on the Currie are no longer suitable for a motor and are slightly wider now that I repaired them with that steel bracket. I would have to change the forks to mount a Bafang motor. I also have to find handle bars for the Haro V3. I may have to take it to the bike shop and have the front end rebuilt. I might have them install a dual drive hub so I can run a pedal chain and mount the motor chain and sprocket on the left side.

Basically they made that wiring harness I posted a pic of and used to hook up the controller Dan sent. It was made so that any 9 pin cable coming from a hub motor like the Bafang could be used with any controller that does not have the 9 pin cable.

There is a lot of controllers cheap on e bay that should work. I am just not investing much more money into those Bafang motors. I will order the torque arms and a cheap controller < $25 I guess. It will probably be a slooooooooow boat from China and if I am lucky will be here by summer time. The Bafang motors are definably going on a back burner. I cant test them with the controller that has the 1,000W hub motor as the power connecter is different and am not messing with the e bikeling controllers either.

If anyone has any ideas on what controller could work for the Bafang motors please post a link. AS long as it is < $25. I am not spending any more that I have to on those Bafang motors. If I cant get them to work I will probably give them to someone for spare parts. I could ship them out if not too much money.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub motor wont turn and the LiPo Fire don't Burn.

My 13S - 7P battery is here and am going to pick it up. It went where it was supposed to , the UPS access point.


I tried to call Bafang but the number they provided was useless. I got a error message. I also called Battery clearing house. I was polite and left a message for a call back. I simply stated that I purchased two Bafang motors and tried two different controllers and could not get them to work. I left a number for a call back. I figured with my temperament you all thought I might get rude with them but it is just the opposite. I am smart enough to know it would not be in my best interest to NOT burn that bridge. If in fact the motors do not work I still have a chance to get a refund if I return them. Also in the future they might have a decent BMC or MAC or a 750W Bafang motor really cheap. They also have killer deals on batteries so I will not be rude to them.


Just because I have failed twice hooking up a Bafang motor does not mean I am giving up. Not looking at the picture DA. posted because I was working on the 26" dual suspension at the time was my fault. There is a slight chance I screwed up the e bikling controller by hooking it up wrong the first time. Like the saying says I lost a battle do to poor decision but did not lose the war.

There are hundreds of different controllers out there and they would not have made the 9 pin motor extension cable that ends with the white plug for the sensor wires and 3 motor wires. They made that so you could hook up a motor with a 9 pin connecter to a controller that does not have the 9 pin connecter. I just have to find the right controller.

I do have a fork in the van to replace the one on the front of the Currie. I still want that Bafang on the front as I know it will be quiet. The rear chain drive is loud. Especially with the gear reduction. It makes a lot of noise. My idea of only using the chain drive up hills or if I feel the need to go 30 mph was a good idea. I like quiet. It is why I like the e bikeling motors and the 800W hub motor on the 20" Turbo out in the van. It is still my main ride. The 1,800W brushless motor is really loud also.

I will be picking up my brand new 13S - 7P pack today. I have 28 bucks on my card and will be ordering a second soldering iron. I am still pissed off at myself for losing the 5 extra solder tips that came with the 60 watt iron I got now.

I also have my work cut out for me with the Haro V3. The handle bars that were on there I put on the Currie as the ones on the Currie were too tall to fit in the van. When I moved the Haro a bunch of parts fell all over the floor. Basically the whole front end is shot. It is bad. I am taking pictures now so can order parts and low profile handle bars. What ever I can do here to fix it will save me money at the bike shop. It is top priority now as that is the bike I am installing the 3 killowatt brushless motor.

I need to order the 72 tooth wheel and a 10 tooth 8 mm sprocket from electric scooter parts A.S.A.P.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.amazon.com/Bnineteenteam-Brushless-Controller-Aluminium-Electric/dp/B07S63SV91/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=36%2Bvolt%2B22A%2Bbrushless%2Bmotor%2Bcontroller&qid=1612647155&refinements=p_36%3A1253555011&rnid=386589011&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1&th=1









OK.

I know DA. is probably shaking his head in disgust as I failed to listen to him when he posted the picture of the 4 to 1 cable and I hooked up the throttle wrong.

However that is the past and that cable no longer matters. I have the other cable I ordered and it is not cut or damaged in any way. I am moving on.

I am now looking for a controller to hook up to that cable and to the Bafang motor.

From what I have read on those 350W Bafang motors anything > 22 amps can damage the motor and 10S or 42 - 36V is the maximum voltage.

Searching Amazon I see 500W 30 amp controllers and 250W /350W 13 and 17 amp controllers.

The perfect controller for the motor as far as voltage and amps is the one above and is only 17 bucks.

I would appreciate all or as many professional opinions pertaining to that controller for the Bafang motors and if anyone has a better option under 25 bucks please post the link.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

As far as the football game I am not sure I will get it as I do not have cable. I have an Amazon firestick. I have not watched football in about 3 years. I was a Patriots fan for about 10 years though but am kind of disgusted that Tom Brady left the Patriots.

Understandable, 3 downs football takes more skill to play the game, then having 4 downs.

From what I have read on those 350W Bafang motors anything > 22 amps can damage the motor and 10S or 42 - 36V is the maximum voltage.

Yeah it doesnt take much to damage those little, small motors. Thats why they are a waste of money, unless your building an ebike for your child. But I must stand corrected and say they are only a waste of money if you pay to much for them, paying $50 aint so bad if the shipping cost was very cheap also. If buying new and any wimpy small motor was $200 and a bigger more powerful motor was $250-$300 then its a given to go with more power. Everyone has their own personal price limitations. One guy had a motor for $100 but shipping was $125. I could have gotten it but it wasnt a front hub which is what I wanted. I can spend $80 and get a new fork on the fat bike and install my own rear hub motor on the front.

 

[latecurtis]

Yeah it doesnt take much to damage those little, small motors. Thats why they are a waste of money, unless your building an ebike for your child. But I must stand corrected and say they are only a waste of money if you pay to much for them, paying $50 aint so bad if the shipping cost was very cheap also.

Well I am not sure about the Bafang motors but looked up the serial number and are rated at 350 watts. The size of those motors is clearly larger than the 500W e bikeling motors I own and I ran one 26" e bikeling motor on the back exclusively for about 18 months. I pedal assisted up hills and the motor held up and still runs great. I hauled cargo in my back pack and it performed well for it's size. Except for steep hills. I often got off and walked up the steeper hills when I got too tired to pedal assist to save the motor. I weighed about 240 when I moved here and about 230 now and the bike I was running was the 26" steel dual suspension. The same bike that has the 1,000W hub motor on the back and 1,000W 36V chain drive on the front now.

The 500W e bikeling motor is now on the back of the Giant Roam now with a 500W e bikeling motor on the front on a 700c wheel. The e bikeling controllers were 22 amps so unless the inside of the Bafang motor has cheaper and smaller gears than the e bikeling motors it should run about the same or better than the e bikeling motors.

Since I live in the city where there are pot holes , intersections and lots of traffic I really do not need to go faster than 15 to 18 mph most of the time. Like I said before I am NOT very fond of chain drive motors that make a lot of noise but do like the power output of a one horsepower motor so by having it on the back of a bike and the Bafang on the front I get the best of both worlds as I do not even need the Bafang up hills. Also I can still achieve 30 mph with the chain drive exclusively. But when I don't need to go faster than 15 to 18 mph I can just cruise quietly with the Bafang motor exclusively. It is the best of both worlds.

I was even thinking about a Bafang on the front of the Haro V3 when I put a 3 kilowatt chain drive on the back. Maybe even a 20" direct drive hub motor for the front of the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless chain drive on the back. I really like the 800W 20" hub motor on the 20" Turbo bike also in the van. The only bikes I will not need a hub motor on the front would be if I put a BMC or MAC motor on the 700c (Easy Street). And a 1,500W or a cro motor on the 27.5" Silver Dimond Back.

I really like running two motors on e bikes. My way of thinking is if you have two wheels I may as well motorize both wheels. The exceptions of course is a cro motor on the back or powerful 40 mph capable BMC or MAC as then a front motor would just be extra drag and be redundant.

Speaking of the 26" dual suspension with the 1,000W hub motor on the back and 1,000W chain drive on the front I am very embarrassed to say I can't ride it. It sucks but won't be able to even test drive it. It is just way too heavy. I have back , knee and heart problems. It will be physically impossible to get it down the three flites of stairs by my self. Even if I did there is no way it will fit in my mini van and would have a better chance of winning a wrestling match with a grizzly bear getting it back up to the third floor.

I had to remove the Currie front wheel before just to fit it in the van before. It is why I stole the handle bars from the Haro V3. I may also have ordered the 3 kilowatt brushless motor for nothing as lord know how much money it will cost to fix the Haro V3 now. The entire front end needs to be replaced. The forks want to come right out of the goose neck. It is a disaster.

Therefore I would appreciate any help with these Bafang motors as I really want the Bafang motor on the front of the Currie. It will be my main ride until I move or get a 4' by 8' cargo trailer and build a 6 foot high enclosed box with a 3/4" plywood door in the back with a heavy duty lock. Then I can ride whatever e bike I want. I am working on that now. As soon as I find out the third stimuli's check is happening for sure I am buying a trailer. I need it anyway as not spending the rest of my life here. It will be worth every cent invested when I move. I paid almost 1,000 bucks to have my storage in upstate NY hauled here last summer. With my van and a trailer I can do it myself.

Thanks.

LC. out

 

[markz]

Well I'd say you'd probably be wise to focus on those Bafang hub motors. Perhaps recap what exactly the problem is, what you've done to try and fix it, go over what the other problems are and post up some nice clear pictures. While focusing on those Bafang hub motors ONLY that you want fixed so they can run, probably best to have less other stuff talked about. Sure we got side tracked a bit, having a little fun and all. But I notice you write a lot of text in a long post, giving the reader a bunch of numbers and wattage formuals and speeds then the last paragraph of the novel you require information which the reader did not bother to read after the first or second paragraph.

The five W's, Who, What, Where, When and Why and of course everyone loves pictures, nice clear pictures.
https://www.barnsley.ac.uk/shops-services/higher-education-library/study-skills/constructing-paragraphs/

Doing a search of new eZip motor using Bafang I couldnt find anything, except....
"I should be able to find a wiring diagram from Bafang on line hopefully."
"I am finishing my coffee and on my way to Wall- Greens before the snow starts flying. When I get back I will check Bafang's web site and see if there is a wiring diagram and will post pictures."

You've confirmed the hub motors spin freely on their own?

You hooked up a sensorless controller and a throttle and a battery and it does what? not spin? makes strange sounds? is bumping around like the phase wires are touching which in a very mild case it would do but sometimes fry a fet in the controller.

No go situation could also be your throttle is bad
battery to low
mislaballed controller voltage
damaged controller
broken clutch
damaged or delaminated magnets
cooked windings
damaged windings

I never done a phase-to-phase multi-meter measurement for winding ohms, might be something to look into.

 

[latecurtis]

Well.

I am petty sure Dan runs Bafang motors. Not sure about anyone else. I find it hard to believe that Battery Clearinghouse would sell those motors without testing them first but I guess anything is possible.

I know that I am not spending much more money on them. I was going to order that controller I posted. But I do not have the horseshoe shaped washer that comes with torque arms. I need at least one for each motor. Mable two. and not enough money to order a controller and two torque arms. Not sure if I can just order the washers.

The biggest problem is the weather. It is below freezing and looks like it is not warming up any time soon. I need to put money on my card and those two heaters I bought for the van are basically useless. They do not even blow out warm air. They do not heat up the van and the windows fog up and not safe to drive. Lucky I did not run someone over last time I went to Wall Mart.

Way too cold to walk to Rite Aide to put money on my green dot card. Maybe tomorrow. I have a 3 killowatt motor and controller to pick up. I guess I have no choice but to go out. Also out of weed. I need to get to the weed store also. Medical cannabis is legal here in Ohio and I have a state issued card.

The cold weather makes me really tired. I went to bed just after half time and just woke up a few minutes ago. I got a great slogan if Tom Brady runs for president of the US in 2024. "Tom Brady for president 2024. Give your football team a fighting chance. :lol: I posted it on facebook. My son and brother are Steelers fans and my other brother likes the Chiefs so I figured I would rub a little salt in their wounds. It does make sense though. He can't run the country and play football at the same time. :lol:

Anyway if anyone is running a Bafang motor without a Bafang controller or if anyone has a used Bafang controller or has information on what controller is my best bet please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

As of now I've done two conversions with those Bafang front hubs, and both have worked fine. The easiest 22A controllers I found (with compatible plugs) cost about $30. They require LCD displays that also cost about $30. I also bought 9 pin extension cables and thumb throttles. Total cost for the conversion parts including the wheels was about $140, not including battery. The only plugs I replaced were the battery bullets, which I switched to Anderson PP45.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174100764183

 

[latecurtis]

They require LCD displays that also cost about $30.

I agree with Markz. Those display modules are garbage and redundant. The DC breaker is all that is needed to turn the controller on. The display is just an extra part that can break and is why I took a hammer to it when it failed to turn on.

Basically if the Bafang motors cant work thru that cable with a regular controller then I do not want them.

Also why did they even make that cable if it wont do the trick with about any controller.

Total cost for the conversion parts including the wheels was about $140

for 15 bucks less you could order that.




My reason for buying the Bafang motors was they were 100 bucks for two with shipping. It makes no sense at all though if you have to spend 140 bucks more jut to get them to work.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

They require LCD displays that also cost about $30.

I agree with Markz. Those display modules are garbage and redundant.

Well, the ones I use show miles, speed, voltage, and other valuable data. They allow the motor's power to be limited or increased again at the touch of a button. Since the controller doesn't do any of these things without a display, I think having one is worthwhile. I use these features constantly on my bike that has them.

One of my bikes has a 2003 Crystalyte system with only a throttle and power-on indicator. That bike is fine the way it is, but if I could have the benefits of a display for another $30, I'd take it.

If I had found a 22A controller that didn't require a display and had a 9 pin plug, I'd have tried out one of those too. For me, it's worth the $30 not to have to break out the wires into separate plugs, though.

 

[latecurtis]

Well

I just want to get the Bafang motors to work as cheap as possible.

I need a cheap controller.

Not even sure if they are worth bothering with at this time.

I got the Haro to deal with now. It needs handle bars and front end work.

I will be picking up the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and controller for it soon.

I have the money to order a brand new hub motor kit.

I do not even know how the Bafang motors run. I know the e bikeling motors are quiet as a church mouse. Also the 20" hub motor on the front of the little Turbo bike in the van is really quiet. I like quiet most of the time but not all the time.

I hate loud motor cycles Also but do like the electric motors but not all the time. A quiet motor that does 15 to 18 mph is stealth in the city. Not that cops bother anyone anyway.

One of those gas bikes would not hear me and if I got behind it and then hit the throttle on the rear 3 killowatt motor or even the 1,800W motor I am going past that gas shit. At least for awhile I can put it behind me. Even if it can get to 45 mph I will get to 40 mph first.

Not sure if a Bafang makes a lot of noise or not. I still never run one ??

Please let me know and if a cheap controller that might work that would be great.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

You can use the cheapest kind of brushless motor controller, but you'll have to tease out all the wires in the motor cable, work out the assignments, and install plugs.

Here's one example, under $12 including shipping:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/392941038232

My time and frustration isn't worth the small savings versus something that plugs in and works without modification. Clearly you have a different appetite for spending time and frustration on these projects than I do, so maybe it's worthwhile to you.

The couple of these motors I have set up sound the same as Ebikeling's 500W motor. I'd be surprised if the Ebikeling isn't a clone of the Bafang.

 

[markz]

I have hardwired many wires with no problems at all using zero connectors. Often I'll do it with throttles but I have done it with phase wires leaving enough length to change a tire. The only time I have not done that is with battery wires, for obvious reasons.

$11 SENSORLESS controller 36V 10A
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32786899456.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.12.61766745dXUIOv

Phase - 3 wires
Throttle - 3 wires
Battery - 2 wires
Ignition - 1 wire
Learn - 2 wires

 

[latecurtis]