new eZip motor

[markz]

Will wait for your edited version for some typed text instead of a single picture.

https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/unite-my1020-1000w-3000-rpm-48v-dc-motor.html

Model: MY1020
Voltage: 48 Volt DC
Output: 1000 Watt
Sprocket: 11T (8mm T8F chain)
Rated speed:3000RPM
Rated current: 26.7A
Rated Torque: 3.2Nm
Sprocket Type: 11t sprocket for T8F Chain (earlier models of this motor may have a smaller sprocket on them as they are usable with a smaller sprocket).

Weight 5.25Kg

IMG_0723.jpg

 

[latecurtis]

Looks great but won't be here until end of March or first of April. I never order from ali express. Hopefully can find something on Amazon. Amazon usually ships in about a week or less. Also I don't have address issues. I was lucky to get that motor. I ran the 20" turbo today and got my stuff done quickly.

Wallgreens held the motor for me even though it was UPS instead of Fed X. I got lucky. However not pushing that luck. Amazon is far better than e bay for ordering online. There is only one method of shipping. Theirs. E bay and Ali use UPS , Fed X and USPS I think. I know e bay does and most items now seem to not be USPS so won't ship to my PO. Box.

The lady at the UPS access point was nice but told me I could not place online orders using the address of the access point. She said I have to call UPS and change it while in transit so can't order anything unless I give my home address. If it gets delivered here it could easily get stolen. Someone stole my Obama phone when I first moved in.






That is a brushed motor. My original motor replacement for the Currie at the start of this post. I have owned two and are capable of 30 mph. My motor is brushless , 3 times the power and probably capable of close to 50 mph but will be going 45 mph @ 53V.

I got lucky on the controller. It will work at 53V it is at the post office and boasts 70 amps.

I will be going 45 mph.

I will look for a 350 or 500W controller off of Amazon for those Bafang motors. I prefer 500W but 22 amp . Not 30 amp. They make both and sometimes call the 22 amp controllers 450 watts. 30 amps is too much but 22 amps is perfect as the 500W controllers hooked to my e bikeling motors are 500 watts at 22 amps and they run perfect. A 17 or 18 amp would work but defiantly nothing less than 17 amps.

40V * 17A = 680W. Yea 17 to 22 amps is fine and with the simple instructions you posted.

Phase - 3 wires
Throttle - 3 wires
Battery - 2 wires
Ignition - 1 wire
Learn - 2 wires

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

I have hardwired many wires with no problems at all using zero connectors. Often I'll do it with throttles but I have done it with phase wires leaving enough length to change a tire.

Yeah... no. Servicing a bike when the wheel is on a leash, or swapping a busted throttle when it's soldered on, is needless foolishness. It's cursing yourself with future problems that could have been avoided.

 

[markz]

Correct its not ideal, but if you have no spare connectors and have to get going then you gotta do what you gotta do.

Yeah... no. Servicing a bike when the wheel is on a leash, or swapping a busted throttle when it's soldered on, is needless foolishness. It's cursing yourself with future problems that could have been avoided.

 

[latecurtis]

I have hardwired many wires with no problems at all using zero connectors. Often I'll do it with throttles but I have done it with phase wires leaving enough length to change a tire. The only time I have not done that is with battery wires, for obvious reasons.

I got lucky with the Currie. The 36V and 48V brushed controllers have the same white throttle plug. The throttle came with spade connecters. But without insulation it is a short waiting to happen. Full throttle in traffic could end very badly.

I am getting proficient at using very thin strips of electric tape. I was going to use hot glue and two thumb throttles but after that tape job decided a single throttle would work for switching between 36V and 48V controllers. The motor wires are both male bullet yellow and blue blue being positive and female bullets from each controller also yellow and blue.

Yea. Swapping is an art. I could bring an extra throttle for a spare and with the brush controllers those 2 kilowatt units with a knob for a throttle or a pot. I have like three I do not use anymore. It is a simple unit. The power and two motor screw terminals in the back and the speed control knob in the front.

Brush e bikes are naturally simpler electronic wise. Less wires. Also those 36V 1,000W brush motors can do 2 horsepower easily with a few extra volts. They are still worthwhile building.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I went to the post office to get my 3 kilowatt controller.

I edited out stuff NOT related to this post. We all know to beware of scams. Craigslist , fake e bay addresses and e mails created for fraudulent purposes. They did not get my money and I got the add on Craigslist removed. Just don't let your guard down because there are a bunch of crooks out there.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As a Hub Motor will turn and hopefully a LiPo Fire wont Burn.

I really like the looks of the 53V battery. There is no possible way I could build a battery pack that looks like that. The pouch it is in is the one that came with the 800W 20" hub motor that is on the 20" Turbo. The battery fits perfectly inside of that. I will need one more just like it. Also I noticed that the battery is 7P - 1,200W. Not 1,000W. I also noticed that the same company sell 13S - 5P packs rated at 1,000W. Basically what I am saying is I need to test this pack as I will need one more to achieve > 40 mph. One more pack will give me 2,400 watts. At 53V the motor and controller is capable of 2,650W and 45 mph but with 2,400W I will get at least 40 mph. I can live with that.

What I can not live with though is the current condition of the Haro V3. The bike I am building with that motor and controller. I will need to order parts and am not sure what to order so will take pics.

I took the handle bars off to put on the Currie so that it would fit in the van. Now I have no handle bars and my front end is a basket case. I also will need the right size seat post. It is larger than most bikes. Not sure if I have one. I will need to know where I can get the parts to fix it and low profile handle bars. I still need to order the 72 tooth wheel and 10 tooth motor sprocket.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Well I went back to page 220 to delete long posts NOT related to building e bikes. I figure this post is long enough and takes up enough space so do not need to waste space on stuff that nobody will ever need to look back on. I want to be able to find stuff like links and reference points without having to filter thru posts that are not needed or redundant.

We got a ton of snow and more to come so am just taking a break for now in ordering parts. I need a front end kit for the Haro V3. My next build. I need to order the 72 tooth sprocket from electric scooter parts. Also a controller for those Bafang motors. I need to make a list as I need solder tips or another iron with extra tips as I lost the ones that came with the last iron.

I am still considering a BMC or MAC for the 700c (Easy Street) :lol: It got its name as the Walking Dead was on about the same time I built it and that name was a song they played on the show. It was an easy install like most hub kits are as everything you need is there.

Easy street as well as the Giant Roam have all 21 pedal gears working. I still have not test drove the Giant , 26" dual suspension or the Currie with the new 53V pack. This weather is ridiculous.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

EZ seal and solder connectors!



Good price on 10-12ga

 

[latecurtis]

That is awesome.

Great invention. 8) Thanks DA. I forgot to put money on my card. I need to order that as well as a cheap controller for the hub motors.

Rode the little 20" turbo today to a Rite Aide to get my BP pills.

I froze ! ! ! It was cold. Not much fun, Lithium batteries slow down in the cold.

I wont be riding again until it warms up.

Being inside most of the time is boring. I need to order more parts to keep the e bike workshop going.

I have other problems to solve besides those Bafang motors. The Haro needs a whole new front end and am not even sure what the parts are even called so need to know that before I can order anything.

I need a list.

1, controller < 25 bucks from Amazon for Bafang motors.

2. 4 - torque arms.

3. solder connecters DA. posted.

3. the 72 tooth 8mm sprocket , A second 9T and a 10T motor sprocket - 8mm.

4. Another 13S - 7P pack.

5. handle bars and front end kit. --- ??????????

Yea. a link would help as not sure of name.

I have the chain for the Haro and a choice of a 9 tooth or a 11 tooth. I will order a 10 tooth. I will need a second 1,200W - 13S - 7P pack for 13S and 2,400W - 14P.

The 11 tooth would be over gear for 2,400W. The 9 tooth is much better for 41 mph but is the smallest sprocket and will wear out so I probably should order another 9 tooth also as I can run either 9 or 10T but not 11T as 2,400W is not capable of 50 mph. I will hook up a speedometer and test the 9 and 10T sprockets.

I calculated rpm by 4,800 / 60 * 53 = 4, 240 rpm. Estimated power @ 53V = 2,650W.

3,000 / 60 = 50 * 53 = 2,650W.







Those rings fell out when I took the handle bars off it to put on the Currie. I do not know how they go back and need a handle bar that goes around the top of that. Not the kind that go inside and need a star nut. I think only bike shops have a tool for that. I am still dealing with a minivan and already have a bike I really want to ride that will never fit in there. The 26" dual suspension.

No point in building a 40+ mph bike I can not steer. When I was in NY I paid a guy to build my bikes. I never did handle bars , chains , gears , brakes , ect. I need to order the parts to fix the Haro then watch Youtube videos and copy what they do. Not sure what parts they are.


Please let me know if you can.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor will Turn and hopefully No LiPo Fire will Burn.

I ordered two hub motor controllers from Wish. I never ordered from them. At first it would not go thru as I used my PO. box but they have a store close by where I can pick it up. Unfortunately it will be about a month but with all the snow I guess it wont matter. The thing that sold me was the simplicity and getting the exact current for the Bafang motors. I decided that 22 amps could be too much for the 350W motors as

40V * 22A = 880W

Also I do not want a weak 12 or 13 amp controller for them either as 40V * 13A = 520W.

I would be using my rear chain drive most of the time as top speed will be limited to < 15 mph.

So I got those controllers that are 16 to 18 amps so

40V * 17A = 680W.

It should do 16 to 18 mph on the flat which is fine 60 to 70% of the time in the city.


https://www.wish.com/product/59cb737bd6886e41f53d16dd?share=web




I also placed 3 e bay orders.

Yesterday I removed the steel flat bar and applied JB weld and used braces to hold it in place. The fiber fix will be used over the area I welded as well as on each side so the shock can not collapse. The one side went all the way down and the other stayed up. That could be a problem. I will make sure nothing moves with that fiber fix. I did not realize it was heat resistant. I wanted the regular fiber fix but not sure if the one I ordered is better or not. I ordered 4 torque arms as well and two soldering kits each with solder and 5 extra tips.

The e bike work shop will be up and running again at normal speed soon and I will be installing both Bafang motors and building large capacity battery packs. Then building the 3 kilowatt Haro V3. Electric scooter parts are still out of stock on that 72T 8mm wheel sprocket.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Does anyone ever post here any more ??????????????????????????????????????????????????

I still have somewhere around 200 used 18650 cells to deal with and spent over 200 bucks on a brand new 13S - 7P pack.

I was thinking about ordering a second 13S - 7P pack, It would get me 13S - 14P.

However I was just thinking I still have those old less than 50% capacity 10S packs I hooked all in series. I have a 10S - 10P pack made up from 5 - 10S - 2P packs all hooked in parallel. That was DAs idea and other members agreed and it has worked fine. It just has 50% or less capacity now then when they were new about 5 years ago.

Since the 18650 cells I ordered are all used also why not make my life easier and run them in series to a 3S - 10P pack that I could easily build.

It would be about 10 times easier than building 20 - 6S packs and one 1S - 10P pack from the 18650 cells. Also I have two 10S chargers I do not use.

The brand new 13S - 7P pack is 1,200 watts. I need 2,600 watts for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor at 53V for optimum performance.

I think DA said 13S and 20P was required for 3 kilowatt's so 13S - 17P should get me about 2,600 watts right ?





The new 10S packs I bought last year have a charger that comes with them so I have a 10S charger that I bought way back when I bought the SONA packs and a second 10S charger I bought when I bought the genuine Samsung packs. I have not used either as the charger that came with the new 10S - 4P pack also charges the other two 2P packs hooked up to it.



So if I build a 3S - 10P pack from used 18650 cells then I could get 13S - 10P by hooking them in series with the old 10S-10P packs right ??????

I can charge the 3S - 10P pack separate with one of my 6S - LiPo chargers and the 10S - 10P packs with one of my 10S lithium chargers. And of course the brand new 13S - 7P pack with the charger it came with.

I would only need to run 13S - 17P with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor or the 1,800W brushless motor. All my other motors that can run 13S are 1,000W or less so will work fine with the brand new 13S - 7P pack.

Please let me know as it could save me 225 bucks as wont need to order a second new 13S - 7P pack.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Man, I wish I had time to work on my own bike, let alone comment on yours. Been doing 12 hour days 5 days a week and 6 hour days on weekends.

Once I fall behind in keeping up with your posts, it's even harder to make the time to catch up.

Sorry man, it's not a lack of interest. It's a lack of time. Good luck with what you're doing though, and hope to have more free time to catch up soon.

 

[latecurtis]

Thanks SUNDER.

Glad you are doing well. Making that money. That is awesome.

At some point in time I will do a video with the hub motor you sent. It is on the back of my flagship build. The bike represents what is possible if you are LC. I basically patented the chain drive motor on the front with the BMX style handle bars which is 1,000W @ 36V and the hub motor will see 53V for the first time in its life as it was run at 44V LiPo and 36V since I had it. The bike is > 2 kilowatts total and gearing for each motor is right around 30 mph. It is a BEAST !!!!!

Unfortunately that day will not be any time soon. I will probably be half way thru the new build with the Haro V3 before shooting a video riding an e bike as this weather is horrible for doing much of anything outside except for ski or snow boarding.



I heard sleet banging against the window just now so took that. It is disgusting. :x

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Basically I just do not know what I should build ?

I build three different packs.

1. 12V - 6P

2. 4V - 10P

3. 24V - 1P

In my last post I suggested a 12V - 10P pack could work in series with my 5 year old packs greater than 100 cycles that are 10S - 10P as the cells I am using are used so should be a match ?????

I thought about building 20 - 6S - 1P packs to make a 12S - 10P pack. I have the balance connecters to balance each pack but would still need to hook in series to a 1S - 10P pack to get 13S. The amount of time and difficulty mounting all three packs for series connections make it about impossible to achieve.

The most simple of all is just building a huge 10S - 10P pack and a 3S - 10P pack to wire in series for 13S but since I already have a huge 10S - 10P pack by combining five 10S - 2P packs in parallel then I can get 13S by hooking that in series with a 3S - 10P pack.

I should have enough 18650 cells to assemble a 10S - 10P pack as well as a second 3S - 10P pack for a second large 13S pack in the future.

10S is a better deal than 6S. however I have enough 6S balance plugs to do 20 - 6S packs so what is happening is when I sleep I dream of all these different cell combinations. It is driving me insane. I just do not know what I should build.



There are hundreds if not thousands of clear plastic containers which could hold a 6S - 1P pack.





Obviously the 6S - 1P packs each with its own balance plug is the best design for testing each single cell quickly with a balancer to keep a large pack healthy but is the most complicated if wanting a 13S - 10P pack.
They make small plastic pencil boxes. 5 .5 to 6 inches in length and 3.5 to 4 inches in width works and 1.5 inches high are the dimensions if I were to stack them 10 high.




If I flip that it would be possible to stack two 6S - 1P packs togeather and a 2.5 to 3" high container also 5.5 to 6" long and 3.5 to 4" wide could work and then five plastic containers could hold 6S - 10P. However will need a second 6S - 10P and a 1S - 10P to get 13S - 10P. Yea ! A pain in the ass.

I really do not know what is best. I do know that building 1S - 10P packs are the most simple. 13 stacked together is 13S - 10P. However that is 10 cells in parallel for each layer. I guess I could hook up balance plugs to each stack for two 6S and one 1S but since I own two 10S lithium chargers a large 10S - 10P with a BMS and a 3S - 10P in series is much simpler.

But then there is the fact that I really do not need large 10S - 10P packs for all my builds. The Bafang hub motors and the two e bikeling hub motors do not require large packs for 17 or 22 amps. They would work well with a 10S - 5P pack. 30 cells in parallel series. If I wanted to use my balance plugs I guess I could order a dozen 4S balance plugs and build 6S and 4S packs I could charge with either of my 6S LiPo chargers and could also order a dozen 3S BMSs to get 13S by hooking a 10S and 3S packs in series. or a 6S , 4S and 3S pack in series. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Yea. It is ridiculous. Since I don't have a clue what to do I may as well do all of the above. I will order a lot of 10 or 12 - 4S balance plugs and 3S and just start building all three. I need some plastic cases though different sizes to hold the cells and stack them.

I got my work cut out for me.

Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

Why not build ONE good eBke instead of pissing away money on mediocre builds??

 

[latecurtis]

I just saw on the news that it will soon be totally illegal to buy 18650 cells online.

There investigating lithium ion fires. I just saw it and nobody will be able to order 18650 cells.

Not sure about e bike battery packs made with 18650 cells.

The cheap Chinese fake cells are obviously the main cause not quality cells with built in protection.

This is not good. It may be the end of building 18650 packs. Also by the looks of the Lithium fires they showed I am not sure I want to solder them any more. At least not in my apartment.

I guess I really need to move into a larger place with a heated garage or large basement with dirt or concrete floors and good ventilation.

I won't be able to afford to order any more stuff online though as will not have the money if I am renting a house and paying utilities. :x

I need to at least buy a good fire extinguisher if I am going to keep building packs. I should invest in good safety goggles and gloves to protect myself if one of those cells decide to self destruct when soldering them. I guess my idea of charging LiPo and soldering outside in the back of my minivan was a much better idea than using a small closet for an e bike workshop.

I hope DA or someone can let me know what my best options are. I posted a long post on many different ways to build packs. The safest way will be the best way I guess. Also should I be looking at metal boxes for packs like LiPos. Those fires on the news are no joke. Also how safe is that old 10S - 10P pack. ????????? Should I look into recycling those ?????????

What about LIFEPO4 ??????????? Is that a safer battery chemistry ?????????????????. I have a lot of questions now and no where enough answers. Just unwanted criticism.

Why not build ONE good eBke instead of pissing away money on mediocre builds??

There is no way all my builds are mediocre. The Giant Roam is awesome and has two motors. Both motors are 500W geared e bikeling motor kits about $173 each kit.



The 26" dual suspension has two 1,000W motors and is basically an electric dirt bike as is capable at > 30 mph and the Haro V3 will be > 2.5 kilowatt and > 40 mph.



Yea. I seriously doubt that $320 bike will do 30+ mph or is even close to 2 kilowatts. You can't buy one built better than my 26" dual motor dual suspension for less than 1,000 especially with the extra cargo and the 1,700 lumen front headlight with its own 12V power supply. It needs brake work done but then will be finished. The 1,2000 e bike to the left of the cheap $320 bike is the only one there that can compare to it. The Red wagon is good but the others look like 20" bikes. The 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor in the van could run circles around those expecially when I hook up my new 53V pack.

I doubt that if I were to build a 60 mph cro-motor that tomjasz would be impressed. I am sure that there is nothing I can build that could impress him but that is ok. He has very high standards and there is nothing wrong with that but he needs to understand not everyone is capable of living up to those standards. Not everyone is like Liveforphysics or spinning magnets. The average person on the street will be very impressed with a little 20" BMX with a cheap 500W or 1,000W brush chain drive wether it is on the back or the front.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

I just saw on the news that it will soon be totally illegal to buy 18650 cells online.

Yeah... fat chance of that. This is a country where you can buy designer drugs by the kilogram, online.

 

[Dauntless]

Why not build ONE good eBke instead of pissing away money on mediocre builds??

Because he is then obligated to build a good bike, as well as missing out on all the mediocre builds. And before you say I'm making fun of him, I'm really just telling you that was what it was with me.

But you don't start off able to complete that one good build anyway. Let him have fun until he's ready.

I just saw on the news that it will soon be totally illegal to buy 18650 cells online.

Yeah... fat chance of that. This is a country where you can buy designer drugs by the kilogram, online.

Those designer drugs don't explode or catch fire in transit.

 

[DAND214]

I guess I miss all those fire related news down here. It seems all the talk is about Covid-19 stats.

As for battery build, I would do the 10s 10p and have a battery to run in all your builds. Why have a small one that is over drawn even it matches your build. I never run a limited battery for anything. By keeping more capacity than needed will allow more cycles and longer rides if needed. Also has less chance of doing KFF. Less chance of causing that fire you are concerned about, which should always be.
Less wires all over the place makes it much safer too.

just my thoughts about your battery builds.

Boy it looks like a lot of cotton balls outside :lol: It looks like that back north where I lived. I miss it but than again I really don't.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

yea. i guess my builds are shit because i am not a big rich guy. according to tomjasz I need a $2,000 plus downhill racing bike and a cro-motor or better to impress him.

I know SUNDER has some serious builds under his belt and yes I am a novice according to the top dogs. :lol:

Don't count me out yet though as I still own the FX - 75 - 5 motor.

That might shut him up but unfortunately without some help I can't build it.

For one it is belt driven and have no clue where to order the parts.

I am still trying to get a cheap Chinese 350 watt Bafang motor to turn. 2 months later.

I am still proud of what I did do and If the Giant Roam cant live up to his standards nothing I can build without help ever can. The Haro V3 will be a 40+ mph build but also not good enough I guess. :lol: Haro is a vintage standard but lacks the $2,000 price tag I guess.

It is why I said a cro - motor probably wont be impressive either.

I rest my case.

I am not here to impress the EV world. I just like building e bikes. It is something I enjoy to pass the time.

Anyone with a 3 digit bank account can buy a cheap $500 factory e bike and ride it.

Sorry but I fail to find that impressive. I like to build my own and have built many.

Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Check these out guys and gals. :lol:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6pc-LISHEN-18Ah-2-5V-Battery-60144-USA-Stock-30-000-cycle-Battery-LTO-Lithium/233841181201?_trkparms=aid%3D1110012%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOIPOST%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190711095549%26meid%3Dcb7bbe3ea88943e8902b15101d4a058e%26pid%3D100047%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D11%26sd%3D233841179537%26itm%3D233841181201%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSellersOtherItemsV2&_trksid=p2047675.c100047.m2108




If it is real EVERYBODY should be impressed.

I considered ordering LTO before but the cheapest I saw was around $400 for 6 - 30 to 40 Ah but only 2.5V so 2.5 * 18 = 45V so looking at a $1,200 price tag.

The pouch type is cheaper but not durable and would need extra protection mounting and only 10 Ah.

So if this is true and real you get 45V for about $400 and for around $525 - 60V - 18 Ah. Yea and defiantly 45 mph with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. probably closer to 50 mph.



I can not order yet but plan to soon. I have to check my accounts and shuffle some money around but if you all think this is the real deal I will defiantly order those. 18 AH - 45V for $409 of LTO.

I will probably order 24 or 4 - lots of 6 so I have 60V if needed. If I am going to spend 400 why not spend 500 or 525 as those batteries will probably out live me.

Yea. That is something to smile about. Especially considering the restrictions on the 18650 batteries that are going into effect soon or already are.

Thanks. And pleeeseee let me know if you all think these are the real deal or some sort of knock off. It does say USA stock right ?

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

You do not need to be rich to make a good ebike. If you are patient enough, you will find a free bicycle sooner or later. Heck, that bike wouldnt even need to have a working drive train, where hub motors are concerned. I've seen lots of abandoned bicycles in alleys, next to train stations with a warped rear derailer, warped wheel, pancaked wheel, chain wedged into bb. One year I found a bicycle with bike store tags on it in a bike rack 100' from the store. Not sure if the store did it, or a customer got a quote and dumped it. Kits are cheap, decent battery may need to be saved for. The real questions are what to build for the terrain being ridden.

 

[latecurtis]

The real questions are what to build for the terrain being ridden.

Well I got a different e bike for different terrain and at least one back up for each,

I got cargo bikes and non cargo bikes. I got small 20: bikes and large 26" - 700c and 27.5"

I am versatile and if the smart guy that built that one good e bike and it needs a part and he don't have a spare , well I guess he is walking or driving a motor vehicle to get where he has to go until he gets his part.

Also at some point in time this spring or summer I will have an enclosed cargo trailer parked behind my mini van. It will be about 8 or 9 feet long and four or five feet wide. Any larger I won't be able to tow it with my van.
Most important though is it will be high enough that I won't have to worry about loading any bike I own in it. Then since I have many battery packs I can have bikes with batteries onboard and fully charged. All I have to do is open the door and slide the ramp down and have my pick for the day.

I think that that is a lot better deal that having just one really expensive e bike to ride. I would not trade what I have now for one $2,000 down hill bike even if it did have a Cro - Motor on it. A cro- motor sounds really good but if a cop catches you going 60 mph with a bicycle he might just take it away from you.

I am not saying I am NOT getting one some day as I might but I have had the money for awhile and still do not have one yet. They are kind of out of stock though. :lol:

Anyway I have five working e bikes and soon will have six. The Giant Roam being the most expensive and defiantly not an off road bike. The little 20" turbo and the Currie the least expensive but even those are reliable and could be a lot of fun off road.

Anyway please take a look at these batteries as I would like the expert opinion of everyone here even tomjasz if he is reading this. The fact is that without batteries every e bike on earth is nothing more than useless.

And with the ban on 18650 cells a $550 investment like that could last 20 years to a lifetime depending on how many miles you ride.




https://www.ebay.com/itm/6pc-LISHEN-18Ah-2-5V-Battery-60144-USA-Stock-30-000-cycle-Battery-LTO-Lithium/233841181201?_trkparms=aid%3D1110012%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOIPOST%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190711095549%26meid%3Dcb7bbe3ea88943e8902b15101d4a058e%26pid%3D100047%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D11%26sd%3D233841179537%26itm%3D233841181201%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSellersOtherItemsV2&_trksid=p2047675.c100047.m2108

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

$21 for one 2.5V 18Ah = 45Wh = $0.47/Wh + s/h

https://www.homedepot.com/s/ryobi%2520battery?NCNI-5
Home Depot - SALE ON NOW!
(18V 4Ah) x 2 = $80 for 144Wh = $0.56/Wh + free s/h or free pickup from any Home Depot.