new eZip motor

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I may be able to pull it off if I were not scared to death of Lipos. Anyway, give it some thought. I have no idea what the shipping would be. Maybe it would be easier to get a bus to where you are if you have some free time. I don't know. What I do know is I will be posting a video of me riding the trek with the front kit on it tomorrow. The build will then officially be successful. Also a few months down the road I will be telling that one dude I told you so when the video gets posted of that chopper going down the road at about 40 mph. LOL. Thanks Latecurtis out.
 
Sounds like you would want a heavy duty switch to enable power after all connections completed.
Just make dame sure you hooked everything proper before hitting the switch!
Switch-fuse combo unit would be ideal!
Fuse - highly recommended!!!
 
thank you i never thought i would hear you say that im at erics i had to lose the front basket i adjusted the brakes. Doug did nothing. i should never traded him the specialized or given him back the tablet i will go get the rest of my stuff out of there tommorow. i got it up to about 15 mph. plenty of throttle left. brakes are still rubbing a little but its better than it was and it stopps will still get a video up when i got a camera and daylight. . heavy as hell though with the 3 SLAs on the back. i should have charged and balanced those two bricks before trying to run them im sure Dan did before he sent them but they sat around awhile and that explaines the voltage difference, i can get the plugs extended at hobby town but dont know about a switch.the thing that would be nice about a switch is it would last a very long time. the lipos could be replaced many times by unplugging them and plugging in the new ones, the switch should last at least ten years or more. i would pay to have it done when i get the money. no money now as i ordered those plugs. i guess i can try to charge the other two lipos and balance them. then try to hook them up to the controller. those SLAs are way too heavy and it will be a wrestling match to get them upstairs tonight. narraw staircase with a sharp turn at the top. i wish i lived closer to you Sunder and Dan. Wish one of you guys or even one of the guys who say negitive shit would probably help me out more than Doug has. he just dont like bikes with motor that is electric. he has no interest in that.
 
i will be at the library tommorow. i will check out your diagrams and test one of those parallel cabels i taped up but with a fuse and multimeter, I should be able to switch over to lipo by this weekend. i will only be able to run two for now until i get that plug that expanded changed. i should be able to go 3 miles round trip with two of the 6s bricks for now. in this weather i dont ride much anyway. talk to you guys tommorow. Thanks Latecurtis
 
4IMG_0346.jpg
 
I'm downtown at the library. I parked the bike in the hallway downstairs last night. I don't care what the landlady said. I ran a cord and charged the SLAS. I had a important appointment at city hall for my disability. My friend Carl works for the center for disability. The coldest day of the year. Got up late and if I had to walk I would have froze and probably have missed it. Made it in less than 10 minutes. mostly downhill.

I am a little upset as they cut my tree down. I used to be able to lock the currie to the tree and plug into the outside outlet to charge the 2 - 10 Ah SLAs that came stock with the currie. Now I need a 25 foot extension cord. or charge it without locking the bike which is not an option. I got 1.3 miles to get home. Doubt if these damaged SLAs will hold up. Cant find a good pedal gear either. Bike needs a little work. I will walk the bike up the steep hill and turn it on about half-way home. Should make it. I'm just glad I got it running. Carl posted the picture for me and took a video. If he cant post it on here for some reason then he might send it to my E mail. I will check in a minute.

I just want to be clear and straighten out what that one guy said a few days ago when I had that issue with the Lipos. He said I cant do anything right. or hook up anything. Not true. Doug did nothing on this build except take the forks off the Specialized and put them on this Trek. I installed the hub motor Sunder sent me and I hooked up the SLAs from the currie for temporary power until I get the Lipos going.. Also that guy forgets I hooked the new MY1020 motor to the currie. The bike shop only put on the sprocket. I don't think he (the guy that said that) knows who he is talking to. I'm very intelligent and am having a professional welder with 18 years of experience helping me with my next build. The 20 inch electric chopper. He will extend the forks and help me with the chrome plating. I know I can install the motor. Not much different than the currie motor I did.
The only issue I am having with the next build is disk brakes. I will need them and Doug says they don't make them for 20 inch bikes anymore. If anybody on this forum wants to help me with the next build then instead of being negative. They could give me some brake options. That's all I need to figure out is how to stop the thing. I got the rest. Hopefully Doug is wrong and I can get disk brakes for 20 inch wheels. At 1.5 killowatts and 7000 rpm and my brain its a recipe for disaster without good stopping power. LOL. Im sure all of you guys will agree with that. Thanks Latecurtis.
 
https://www.google.com/search?q=disk+brakes+for+20+inch+bikes&biw=1600&bih=799&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HKqtVICqCeLLsASHj4LABg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&dpr=1#imgdii=_&imgrc=WpxeKWyWY2oKSM%253A%3BZUdasQcFu4SCdM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi00.i.aliimg.com%252Fwsphoto%252Fv0%252F2037028872_1%252FNew-LANTU-font-b-20-b-font--font-b-Inch-b-font-Double-Folding-Bike.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.aliexpress.com%252Fpromotion%252Fpromotion_20-inch-bmx-frame-promotion.html%3B761%3B761


https://www.google.com/search?q=disk+brakes+for+20+inch+bikes&biw=1600&bih=799&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HKqtVICqCeLLsASHj4LABg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&dpr=1#imgdii=_&imgrc=8ksLnYppmbbrCM%253A%3BkDbO_pq1k3NWDM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.th.all.biz%252Fimg%252Fth%252Fcatalog%252F35364.png%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.th.all.biz%252Fmini-bike-tour-java-mini-bearings-wheel-20-inch-g35364%3B441%3B298

https://www.google.com/search?q=disk+brakes+for+20+inch+bikes&biw=1600&bih=799&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HKqtVICqCeLLsASHj4LABg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&dpr=1#tbm=isch&q=disk+brake+kit+for+20+inch+bike&imgdii=_&imgrc=uBnEG3eu3UfX6M%253A%3BillgbSkbhqFEjM%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fd10kui8makj4zw.cloudfront.net%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2012%252F03%252FIMG_7015.jpg%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.electricbike.com%252Febikecomponents%252F%3B640%3B427

that's a hub motor. only difference is that I will be extending the forks ( a little not a lot) and mine will be all chrome.
 
Karl Francis <peer10@cdciweb.com>
Attachments3:42 PM (1 hour ago)

to me
Scott,

I could not upload the file, 52 megabytes . However, I hit submit anyway, see if it sent.


ronnieb52 » Mon Jan 05, 2015 8:31 pm
Something Positive to say ?
Nope...
Have you ever gotten anything to work ?
My God. People have sent you a front hub and batteries and charger and you seem to get that messed up.
Why don't you read what they are telling you.
Now you want to build a shiny chopper that goes 43 MPH.



Kind of sucks. He did a video and this forum would not let him post it. That's just wrong!!! Whoever is in charge should straighten this out. Also the 512 kb limit on pictures also. The computer tech here at the library gave me some online service wetransfer.com and transferbigfiles.com. I will send Karl the link. Also he has the video on his phone. either way I am going to Doug to get all my Lipo stuff. If the video don't get posted I will make another one. It is official. I have two e bike builds under my belt. I just have to mess around with those Lipos. That's the only thing I failed to do was switch over to Lipo. Both my builds have been successful.
All I get when I google image 20 inch disk brake kits are pictures of bikes with the brakes on them. I would appreciate feedback on brake options for 20 inch wheels.
I really don't want to hear "It will never work" or "It cant be done" or "Its suicide" Please!!!. I already proved all those negative comments wrong twice now especially the one I copied and pasted above. I did not forget that. A little criticism is good though sometimes. It keeps me motivated and I love making people eat their own words. But , Its getting king of old. I never gave up and never will. Even on the Lipo. I will figure those out also. I'm not a quitter and have nothing but time on my hands. The electric chopper is going to happen this summer or sooner. It will go over 40 mph. And it will be totally awesome. The stuff of legend.


Sincerelly Latecurtis. out
 
Sounds a bit odd about not making disc brakes for 20" wheels.

I'm no expert, but from the ones I've seen, there should be no relationship between the disc brake and the wheel size. After all, the disc brake just bolts to either the hub or the motor, and it's the fork that holds the clamping apparatus steady. As long as you have standard mounting holes on your hub/hub motor, and have standard mounting holes on your fork, surely that means you can just get a standard disc brake kit?

With regards to the video - just throw it up on Youtube and link it here. This forum only has limited storage and bandwidth, but a company like Youtube effectively has unlimited budget (it's owned by Google, and is a very profitable venture). It also has content distribution infrastructure so that a viewer in Australia, doesn't have to wait for it to copy from the US first.

Good to see you're progressing. I've had nearly three weeks off work, and the first two were just crashing and lazing around. End of quarter/year can be hard on me. I spent the past week just catching up on house work, and only 2 hours working on my own bike. I've improved the quality of some connectors and moved from a hard case pannier box, to a nylon pannier bag which makes it less noisy, and more stealthy. Still a lot of work to do on this bike though.
 
You can change the rim on any disc brake 26" wheel to a 20" one, or the other way round: You can get a disc hub for any 20" rim. Wheels are only an assembly of components: hub, spokes, rim, tube and tyre.
 
Thank you guys for the positive feedback. I took the hub motor out for another ride last night. Its getting broke in. Not as noisy. Also achieved about 18 - 20 mph. About the same as the currie was on those batteries. Hard to tell which motor is better. Currie has a little better traction as its rear wheel drive but other than that I don't see much difference. I try to stay off of slippery spots of ice anyway with either bike as I don't want to wipe out. The currie required a kill switch as the throttle put voltage out without twisting it. It would go about 5 mph just by hitting the switch. I like the thumb throttle on the kit better than the half twist on the currie. The kit is a lot smoother. The 22 Ah SLA batteries are only good for about 2 miles flat ground. Probably wont go 1/2 a mile up any kind of hill though.

All is good but I have to straighten out this Lipo mess. I checked my balance and I have more money than I should in my account. I am thinking that all the plugs I ordered did not go thru. I have to check my e mail. The biggest hold up which some people would call an excuse is the fact that for safety reasons I wont charge or operate Lipo batteries unless there inside of a Lipo bag and inside the metal cash box made by sentry. Expecially since I will be charging them inside my apartment. It says its not fireproof but being its metal and the bricks will be in a Lipo bag I am not concerned about fire. However I am concerned about heat. In the summer time when it is really hot, like 85 or 90 degrees with the sun shining. I will not be able to use the four bricks in the Lipo bag inside of the cash box. This time of year and up to 80 degrees without sun should be ok but when its really hot I will have to run SLAs. I will probably going to have to order 4 - 10 Ah SLAS before July or August. Unless I can afford LIFEPO4s.

In the meantime I have to find an electronics store to change that bad plug and get those bricks charged. I will be working on that this weekend. Thanks Latecurtis out.
 
Those "22Ah" batteries are probably only returning you 2-3Ah. Even at a very inefficient 30Wh per mile, 2 miles should be 60wh, or less than 2Ah at 36v.

You should be pleased with LiPo when you get it going.

Instead of screwing around with switches though, had you considered going something like this to keep it permanently balanced, then using a bulk charger exclusively?

26136-main.jpg


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26136__Turnigy_DLUX_LIPO_Battery_Cell_Display_and_Balancer_2S_6S_.html
 
Actually, if you give up on the "need" to balance charge all cells at the same time, there is no need to to do any switching or even disconnect the controller.
 
DrkAngel said:
Actually, if you give up on the "need" to balance charge all cells at the same time, there is no need to to do any switching or even disconnect the controller.

My controller has a 7w parasitic draw. Learned that the hard way. If you don't disconnect the battery, you get puffing after a few days... Not all controllers would be the same, but definitely worth checking first.
 
If I knew about that piece of equipment I would have ordered it library is closing again no time. Also wouldn't I need a 12s charger to bulk charge two or more of the batteries? I'm confused again. Checked my e mail. It looks like the order for the plugs went thru. Ill try to jump on somebody's PC but if not will be back Monday. there open until 6 pm Monday and Wednesday. Please let me know about that. Thanks. Latecurtis out.
 
Sunder said:
DrkAngel said:
Actually, if you give up on the "need" to balance charge all cells at the same time, there is no need to to do any switching or even disconnect the controller.

My controller has a 7w parasitic draw. Learned that the hard way. If you don't disconnect the battery, you get puffing after a few days... Not all controllers would be the same, but definitely worth checking first.
LC controller reputedly has an on\off switch.
Seemed to spark when connected, even in off position, so I did recommend an separate om\off switch & fuse.
Minimum 30A?

1000w output motor / 50V = 20A
Given basic inefficiencies, likely 1500w+ input ... so 30A minimum ... 40A recommended?
 
still looking for extentions for 4mm bullet to 4mm bullet so i can run and charge in lipo bag dont get wht they dont make them how do people charge in lipo bags plugs comming out of bricks way too short. nothing about lipo is simple or easy not even simple 12 inch extentions bullet to bullet, been looking everywgere i dont get it should not have to have them custom made, is there a place to order them and balance extenders. once i get them then will worry about hooking things up thanks latecurtis.
 
if there is a link please post it will need balance extenders also cant get them custom made. lipo bag is safe way to run and charge. thats whats holding things up plus i got to get that plug changed. please let me know hard to believe nobody makes them. thanks latecurtis out.
 
thanks i just need the bullets now. that is a good deal. i still got to get that expanded plug replaced on the one brick. i get more money on the 17 th. like to switch over to lipo by the end of the month.ntions made i will alreadt talked to them about 30 bucks to do if i got to go to hobby town to get the bullet plug replaced and extentions made. thanks latecurtis.
 
At the library still looking for 12 inch 4mm bullet to 4mm bullet connectors so I can run and charge in the Lipo bag. Nobody seems to have them and I cant imagine why. Is it that nobody uses Lipo bags. I really don't get this at all. Both the chargers I got require this connection. This seems to be a common plug but every 4mm cable I've seen on Google images and yahoo, Amazon and e bay seems to have some different kind of plug on the other end. Either banana or Anderson little plugs. The battery chargers wont hook up to anything like that. The wire from the controller has neither. I had to tape up a 4 mm bullet connector . Now I am running the beat SLAs so I undid it but if I switch over to Lipo I will have to tape a bullet connector to it again. I hate cutting and taping plugs. I wish for a more professional job. Not a cheap electric tape deal. I can try to solder them. and shrink wrap it but never did it before.

Another thing When I expanded that plug coming off the one Lipo brick it was because the batteries tried to equalize each other as there was a difference in voltage. Doug is my witness. I did nothing wrong but damaged a plug. Could that have been avoided if both batteries were charged and balanced together first. I am pretty sure that if I placed a fuse between the two batteries I was trying to bridge negative to positive for 44.4 volts that the fuse would have blew. Is there a special wire with a resister that could have been hooked up first to equalize the batteries without damaging the plugs. If there is or if I can go to radio shack and get a resister to solder into a wire would it work and prevent any future damage to the plugs. Would this also work with a fuse inline and would it also help when trying to combine all 4 bricks for charging. The resister would keep the fuse from blowing. It would allow the bricks to equalize gradually. Then the wire or wires could be unhooked and the regular parallel or series connection could be made with no surge of electrons.
 
I may be scared of electricity but did go to college for electrical technology. It was almost 20 years ago but I think I may be on to something. Please let me know if that would work. Also that device DrkAngel posted that equalizes the bricks for bulk charge. How does that work and how to hook it up. I may order it on the 17th when I get my money. I am also very confused about bulk charging. I thought bulk charging was series charging. Like the 24 volt or 36 volt charger charges 2 or 3 - 12 volt SLAs. How would I bulk charge 4 Lipo bricks. Would I hook up a parallel cable to 2 of the bricks combining them repeat that step with the other two bricks then connect the series cable I ordered making 44.4 volts to a 12s charger. Also am confused about what to do with 4 balance plugs. I got the Y balance plugs Dan sent. I have two of them but will need a third to hook all four balance plugs to the single balance port on the charger. I will definitely order that balance unit DrkAngel posted if it will make things more simple but not if I have to order a 12s charger. That's the deal breaker as I own 2 - 6s chargers. I could trade one of them for a 12s charger I guess but who would want to do that? I got 5 days to figure this mess out so as I said before any help will be appreciated. I get the power connections on DrkAngels diagrams. I know about parallel and parallel series connections as I have stated above. What I don't really get is the balance connectors. If that neat little gadget that balances 4 Lipo bricks will work with a 6s charger then I should be good. If not I really don't know what to do. Maybe those resisters and fuses. A lot more wires and work though. I know its getting old and I thank everybody for their patience especially DrkAngel but the truth is I still have a few issues to work out before to switching to Lipo. Thanks Latecurtis
 
let me know ill be at the library tomorrow. thanks latecurtis
 
I don't get what you want to know...

I think you're making it too complicated for yourself for fear of... What? Shorting the battery? (In your control) LiPo fire? (Out of your control - can only mitigate consequences). In my experience, the simpler the system, the less opportunity for mistakes and less parts to fail.

So keep it simple:

Step 1: Hook up serial harness to bike. Leave it there permanently
Step 2: Hook up balancing devices to each cell I linked. Leave it there permanently
Step 3: To charge, break your battery pack up into individual batteries (each of which still has a balancer attached) and charge as a single 6S1P battery
Step 4: To use, plug back into the harness on the bike to reconvert back into 12S2P pack. Each battery should still have balancer attached.

If you do it this way, there should be no way you can make a mistake as you only have one harness, no switches, and it's only a mild inconvenience to have to charge twice (because you don't have a parallel harness)
 
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