Pedaling at high speed

I give up, Good Luck scientist
35 MPH ( skipping the calculations and on some budgets ? )
without every mechanical advantage ever devised ?
OK. Big bad mid drive @ 52V & IntegoNexave.jpg
The Madmadscientist said:
Hey All,
I just realized this a bit too late.
Recumbent riders have basically been dealing with this issue for a very long time.
One place has what they call a 'triple speed' set-up.
They have a 3 speed Sturmey-Archer, with an 11 speed cassette (11-50) with a triple chain ring to deal with the large spread in speeds that the 'bents are capable of.
That seems like a lot of mechanical widgets to go wrong.
I wouldn't go that far but I could do something similar with a 11 speed 11-50 cassette and a 60 chain ring.
I just have to get comfortable with the idea that I will always have to use the motor to help me take off from a stop.
With the semi-stretch-chopper frame I am planning I'm basically halfway between a standard upright bike and a full on recumbent.
I just need to steal more from the full-on 'bent folks.
 
The Madmadscientist said:
I REALLY dislike it when I'm in an official bike lane and one of these people shoot by me silently. It seems so dangerous...
I think that if you're going to cruise at 20mph you should be on the road with the cars.
Severe differences in velocity is inherently unsafe.

do riders in your area know what bicycle bell is for?
in my city it is by-law to ring when approaching other bike or walker
of course typical anglosaxson hates to acknowladge himself ...
 
miro13car said:
The Madmadscientist said:
I REALLY dislike it when I'm in an official bike lane and one of these people shoot by me silently. It seems so dangerous...
I think that if you're going to cruise at 20mph you should be on the road with the cars.
Severe differences in velocity is inherently unsafe.

do riders in your area know what bicycle bell is for?
in my city it is by-law to ring when approaching other bike or walker
of course typical anglosaxson hates to acknowladge himself ...

20 mph ebike doesnt equal a 30 mph and above car when they colide the winner is always the car, thats why we let ebikes ride with restricted speed on cycle tracks.

A bike at 15mph hits a person stood still few bumps bruises maybe a broken bone or too if your unlucky.

A car hits an ebike at 30mph broken bones are lot more likely many deaths have occured.

See how the difference weighs up.
 
miro13car said:
The Madmadscientist said:
I REALLY dislike it when I'm in an official bike lane and one of these people shoot by me silently. It seems so dangerous...
I think that if you're going to cruise at 20mph you should be on the road with the cars.
Severe differences in velocity is inherently unsafe.

do riders in your area know what bicycle bell is for?
in my city it is by-law to ring when approaching other bike or walker
of course typical anglosaxson hates to acknowladge himself ...

Over here, 'real bicyclists' always yell politely, 'Coming up on your left' or whatever the case requires...
In my area riding a bike seems to be 'cool' so I don't think people are as into it as folks used to be. Maybe they don't care about the lore...around here the ebikers are the worst...Well, next to worst.. those damn high-powered scooter riding folks are the worst...it's like they think that they are in a Mad Max movie or something...
 
Stealth_Chopper said:
I give up, Good Luck scientist
35 MPH ( skipping the calculations and on some budgets ? )
without every mechanical advantage ever devised ?
OK. Big bad mid drive @ 52V & IntegoNexave.jpg
The Madmadscientist said:
Hey All,
I just realized this a bit too late.
Recumbent riders have basically been dealing with this issue for a very long time.
One place has what they call a 'triple speed' set-up.
They have a 3 speed Sturmey-Archer, with an 11 speed cassette (11-50) with a triple chain ring to deal with the large spread in speeds that the 'bents are capable of.
That seems like a lot of mechanical widgets to go wrong.
I wouldn't go that far but I could do something similar with a 11 speed 11-50 cassette and a 60 chain ring.
I just have to get comfortable with the idea that I will always have to use the motor to help me take off from a stop.
With the semi-stretch-chopper frame I am planning I'm basically halfway between a standard upright bike and a full on recumbent.
I just need to steal more from the full-on 'bent folks.

That's really interesting. I've never seen anything like it.
3x8 gearing. I wonder why the drum brake though?
I'm not sold on drum brakes yet. A 4-pot hydraulic 203mm disc brake is going to have pretty amazing stopping power.
I can see how that would be idea for a mid mount.
 
miro13car said:
The Madmadscientist said:
I REALLY dislike it when I'm in an official bike lane and one of these people shoot by me silently. It seems so dangerous...
I think that if you're going to cruise at 20mph you should be on the road with the cars.
Severe differences in velocity is inherently unsafe.

do riders in your area know what bicycle bell is for?
in my city it is by-law to ring when approaching other bike or walker
of course typical anglosaxson hates to acknowladge himself ...

The speed limit on the paths here is 20 kph.
You can't have a quiet stroll because everybody comes up behind and "ding, ding, ding", it drives me nuts.
I'd sooner they just cruise on by.
When on a bike, if you say "on your left" or "excuse me", the usual response is "Where's your bell, you're supposed to have a bell"
You just can't win.
 
Manners and common sence is what we lack as a world, we are not born with it its a gift we are taught but if you had a ruff start whats saying you want to learn manners for the greater good of the community.

And for me thats where we are at today in society with its break downs if you have the 2 of the above you stand a good chance at being a decent person without out them you will likely fall into societys cesspits, not have the sence to see speeding on a narrow track past people and dogs alike is a problem or have the manners to slow down and ring the bell while doing so.

That person can be rehabilitated but they have to want to change and learn through life experience and from others with normal an accident that wakes them up shame we tend to learn from mistakes and this is the conclusion i come too.
 
Hello All,
Well, I finally heard from Schlumpf about a drive for a fatbike.
They do make a drive for a 100mm BB but not for my diameter.
According to Trace the BB is 40mm dia...
I think they mean 41mm as I have not been able to find any 40mm crank sets.

It seems to me that with some tubing and a lathe you could make a sleeve that would give you the correct inner diameter and threading.
The sleeve would have to be welded to the bike I think.
 
Oh theres some one-offs out there for sure, I fell trap to a one-off bottom bracket width. But for day 16 of epic'ness, I cant bitch nor can I complain, I choose one for the day thought it was the mountains showing their petti-coats over a haze at the top of a bridge but bambi and momma won out, while charging. The only other big animal run-in was about day 8 a beaver dragging a log, family of 4 in that pond but people must think I am crazy as I past talking about the beavers. I am on a triple crank, 48 speed gear, 11 or 12 back speed gear, its good for 36v speed on 26" but when its on 52v I go faster and dont pedal as much. Not sure, maybe a 54 speed gear, go roadie, start buying Lycra and some vintage road cycling hats worn backwards with Oakley shades on backwards. I do prefer pedaling, I prefer to go slow and eyeball nature, but there are times I like to go fast for a bit, then theres times I want to pedal hard and spin then I choose when to not pedal yet set the cruise, no I cant complain. Worth every cent, every scrape, every broken rib and the broken leg that made me richer. Probably can afford 25 Trek ebikes but why?
 
The Madmadscientist said:
The sleeve would have to be welded to the bike I think.
I would think a close fit and the correct adhesive might be adequate. Take a look at:
LocTite 638
http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/ShowPDF/?pid=638%20-NEW&format=MTR&subformat=REAC&language=EN&plant=WERCS&authorization=2
or
SystemThree T-88
https://www.systemthree.com/products/t-88-structural-epoxy-adhesive
 
Or....
I can't believe I found this on Amazon.
Its a 75t BSD130 crank gear.
If I installed that with a 7 speed 11-32 cassette then we'd be in business and I could pedal up to much higher speeds.
It would like kinda ridiculous I'm sure...
 
Just as long as you understand that pedaling at 35 mph and over slows you down and costs you range due to the extra aero drag exceeding your pedal power. It might help you maintain the illusion of "bicycle", but it doesn't help.
 
I got an old Chrome Ollie steal frame I run up 52 -11t it needed a wider bottom bracket so the big ring gear could fit. I also had to take a hammer to the frame for clearance. It's a single ring. I also put a car jack between the rear to fit a 142mm mxus 3,000;4t 72v 50amp
and a dnp 32-11t.
Can peddle at 33mph and thottle to 46mph rim brakes kool-stop yes xtr brakes and flat spoke rim. Good tires.
See Ya.
 
ebuilder said:
Chalo said:
Just as long as you understand that pedaling at 35 mph and over slows you down and costs you range due to the extra aero drag exceeding your pedal power. It might help you maintain the illusion of "bicycle", but it doesn't help.
You forgot that humans aren't created equally.

I didn't forget that. But I know that none of us here is an elite athlete and none of us here uses an aggressive, aerodynamically effective riding position. (Recumbent riders please reserve comment; y'all are slow for other reasons.)

For me at 35 mph, the calculated difference in power between pedaling 1 RPM (because zero isn't an option in the calculator) and pedaling 100 RPM is close to 300W. While I can generate more than three times that much pedal power, I don't when I'm riding an e-bike. And I think it's fair to assume that neither do others here on this forum.
 
ebuilder said:
Chalo said:
For me at 35 mph, the calculated difference in power between pedaling 1 RPM (because zero isn't an option in the calculator) and pedaling 100 RPM is close to 300W. While I can generate more than three times that much pedal power, I don't when I'm riding an e-bike. And I think it's fair to assume that neither do others here on this forum.
I do, routinely. People aren't the same. One BBSHD bike I built is based upon a Specialized Allez Elite roadbike frame with drop handlebar and 28mm 700c Mavic Wheels.

Sure, whatever. The OP of this thread, who I was addressing, is talking about pedaling a bike like this at over 35 mph:

file.php


Between bluff aerodynamic qualities and a handicapped rider position for pedaling, pushing pedals won't help. Not if you ride it, not if anybody else rides it. It would be strictly for show and it would probably be a net negative for speed and efficiency.
 
Every time I see a picture of that frame I wonder:
"have there ever been reports of small animals (cats, dogs, squirrels ...) having been gored by that pointy down-tube".
 
ebuilder said:
Lewtwo, never get on one of these. About as much fun as you can have with your clothes on, but for how long?
No danger ....
The largest motorcycle I ever owned was a Honda Rebel 450.
The largest Motorcycle I ever road was my nephew's 750 crotch rocket. I did not like it.
If I had dropped it then I would not have been able to crawl out from under it under my own power.

Animals? What animals?
As a teenager I had to run my friend's paper route for several weeks.
We both had Honda 50s. He ran his into a large dog.
The Honda stopped after flipping.
He made several additional somersaults.
No one ever determined if the dog was hurt .... it ran off.
 
Chalo said:
ebuilder said:
Chalo said:
Just as long as you understand that pedaling at 35 mph and over slows you down and costs you range due to the extra aero drag exceeding your pedal power. It might help you maintain the illusion of "bicycle", but it doesn't help.
You forgot that humans aren't created equally.

I didn't forget that. But I know that none of us here is an elite athlete and none of us here uses an aggressive, aerodynamically effective riding position. (Recumbent riders please reserve comment; y'all are slow for other reasons.)

For me at 35 mph, the calculated difference in power between pedaling 1 RPM (because zero isn't an option in the calculator) and pedaling 100 RPM is close to 300W. While I can generate more than three times that much pedal power, I don't when I'm riding an e-bike. And I think it's fair to assume that neither do others here on this forum.

Well, I've personally build my recumbent e-bike as e-*assisted* long-range cruiser, but since getting fairings *right* is a tough nut to crack I'm quite content with average speeds of about 19 mph with about 11 wh/mile while contributing about as much as the motor, and also with pretty upright position with good vision, visibility and comfort. The fact it weights a ton and hence any hill worth the name would be hence unclimbable for me is irrelevant with assist. :)

I could, actually, install similar assist on my 'racier' bent and likely enjoy not 19 mph average (that I would maintain w/o any assist whatsoever over 100 miles) but likely 30 mph with same power output + assist, but I really like LWB form-factor now and fairings or not I intend to dig further, making my bent lighter, stiffer and more aero while retaining other good qualities.

But yea, I'm a cyclist first and e-assist just one of the tools I'm using to *complement* my cycling as of now.
It is likely I'm not alone in this.
 
ebuilder said:
He should get a faster bike where human pedaling matters...lol.
You made a blanket statement and you were wrong. I routinely have top cyclists in my town draft me at 35mph + and I am contributing over 300w to the pedals. I have a FTP, functional threshold power of 275 watts and can easily sustain over 300w's for a few minutes when doing interval training.

BBSHD bike with 52/11 gear ratio maximum speed:
28 inch dia tire x 3.1416 = 87.96 in = 7.33 ft = .001388 mi. miles traveled for 1 wheel revolution
52/11 = 4.73 = .211 crank revolution per 1 wheel revolution
.001438 miles = .211 crank revolution
1 crank revolution = 0.00681 miles traveled
1 mile = 146.8 crank revolutions with 52/11 ratio and 700c/28mm wheel dia.
Posit max human sprinting RPM well within RPM capability of BBSHD ~170-180 spindle RPM
130 crank rev = 0.885 mile
130 crank rev/min = 0.885 mile/min
= 53.13 mph (power limited)

WP_20210725_15_04_18_Pro.jpg

Your post brings up an interesting question for me...
I have no idea what my happy cadence is. I only know that my prefered cadence seems to be slower than what I see when I'm out and about.
This is something that I've been meaning to figure out for a minute now. Can't really figure out a safe way to do it...
 
LewTwo said:
Every time I see a picture of that frame I wonder:
"have there ever been reports of small animals (cats, dogs, squirrels ...) having been gored by that pointy down-tube".

When I was in grad school a good buddy of mine had a squirrel try to jump thru his front wheel at about 25mph. Decapitated the rodent but my friend went over the handle bars. Nasty road rash and a broken collar bone. Thankgod he was wearing a helmet.
 
ebuilder said:
The price of human sacrifice for all the glory...lol.
Lewtwo, never get on one of these. About as much fun as you can have with your clothes on, but for how long?
Animals? What animals?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es5JqGu7ptY

ducati panigale.jpg

That is a beautiful bike but not for old, fat people with bad backs. Now the street fighter V4 I'd love to try one of those on for size.
 
ebuilder said:
The Madmadscientist said:
ebuilder said:
He should get a faster bike where human pedaling matters...lol.
You made a blanket statement and you were wrong. I routinely have top cyclists in my town draft me at 35mph + and I am contributing over 300w to the pedals. I have a FTP, functional threshold power of 275 watts and can easily sustain over 300w's for a few minutes when doing interval training.

BBSHD bike with 52/11 gear ratio maximum speed:
28 inch dia tire x 3.1416 = 87.96 in = 7.33 ft = .001388 mi. miles traveled for 1 wheel revolution
52/11 = 4.73 = .211 crank revolution per 1 wheel revolution
.001438 miles = .211 crank revolution
1 crank revolution = 0.00681 miles traveled
1 mile = 146.8 crank revolutions with 52/11 ratio and 700c/28mm wheel dia.
Posit max human sprinting RPM well within RPM capability of BBSHD ~170-180 spindle RPM
130 crank rev = 0.885 mile
130 crank rev/min = 0.885 mile/min
= 53.13 mph (power limited)

WP_20210725_15_04_18_Pro.jpg

Your post brings up an interesting question for me...
I have no idea what my happy cadence is. I only know that my prefered cadence seems to be slower than what I see when I'm out and about.
This is something that I've been meaning to figure out for a minute now. Can't really figure out a safe way to do it...
I could write a small book about this but will try to just touch on a couple of things.
Kinematics aka biomechanics of a rider matter greatly when it comes to sustainable cadence on any kind of a bicycle.
Cycling at let's say the elite amateur level is a skill. An equation. Every single aspect of a rider's position on the bike is scrutinized. The guys you see with immaculate pedal stroke who are high cadence riders, likely weren't born with it. Like a scratch golfer or top swimmer they arrived after great study and hard work.
Everything in the kinematic chain matters from cleat position to shoe varus/vulgas, hip angle, saddle setback. An equation. The more fit you are and the cleaner your pedal stroke the higher the RPM you can sustain on the bike.
The higher the cadence, the less your legs lactate and the more you lean on your cardio which good cyclist develop after years of training.
Watts= Torque (pedal force X crank arm length) X RPM.
With same pedal force turning a higher cadence, the more power you produce and the faster you ride.

A nominal cadence of 90 RPM is considered a good cadence for a performance rider and pretty close to what I generally ride. I am old and fit and probably top 2% for my age. I have been around bicycle racing for decades and have learned from many talented riders.

A small nitpick - I know you don't mean it this way, but it may SEEM that if going 90 cadence over 70 is better, than going 180 is double better :))

Cadence is all about *linear* muscle contraction speed in the end, and muscle physiology has a certain force/velocity relationship: the higher the SPEED of contration, the less FORCE muscles can generate, and this is by no means 'double the speed - half the force', relationship is much more complex and greatly depend your build, prevalent muscle type, 'weak links in the chain', etc!
Due to muscle recruitement principle, slow twitch, fat-burning, get recruited first, and as workload increases, more and more fibers get increased, including fast twich. (Btw, no single volunatry contraction can reqruite more than about 1/3 of the muscle mass - that's why direct electric stimulation by, say, electric torture or tetanic seizures can literally tear your ligaments - that's why 'feats of unnatural strengths' are sometimes possible... also, this: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-021-97949-2).

An other interesting tidbit: fat-burning slow twitch muscles are:
1. Less mechanically efficient
2. Require more oxygen to function

All in all, there is a very complex interplay of multiple, mutually complementing and inhibiting factors. Unless you have a couch AND entire sports science laboratory at your disposal, it is extremely likely that your self-selected cadence is the best for your fitness level and power output, period, and don't listen to anyone that tell you otherwise.

As you get fitter and cycle harder, your average power output naturally increase - and so is your cadence. Cadence drills are like power lifting - good training tool, but cycling the way you do bench presses is terribly inefficient, and cycling is 90+% aerobic activity. Cycling at cadence faster than your 'preffered' one is even less so, actually.
 
ebuilder said:
First as you pointed out, I didn't speak to maximum cadence and did obliquely touch up how physiology relates to cadence as a broad stereotype, but...what you stated about intransigent nature of people stuck with their 'natural' cadence isn't true. You may now nitpick that you didn't say that either. :)

I will ;)
As you get fitter and cycle harder, your average power output naturally increase - and so is your cadence.

So long as you spin pretty low watts, going it fast is just wasted effort - not unlike an electric motor, where 'iron losses' will dominate. So yea, your 'resistive' and 'no-load' losses depend on the type of the 'motor' you have will dictate your efficient RPM for a given load... 'muscle winding', lol.
Yea, this is trainable and hence not intransigent, but people that got 'stuck' with their preffered cadence are usually people that do not 'progress' at all anyway - emphatically non-elite amateur/recreational cyclists and commuting, that are not interested in performance, but either in 'experiences' or just 'getting there'.

But yea, setting up gear ratio for singlespeed require intimate knowledge of one's preffered cadenc, and if you get to be a stronger cyclist it will inevitably increase - NOT decrease.
However, while with pure human power you neeed to adapt to varying speeds and loads, with assist (especailly powerful assist) you are free let the motor 'pick up the slack' anytime.

I still think that 35 mph is not a good idea on a bicycle - not just for safety reasons, but mostly because you'll get very limited range with battery pack of reasonable size... but than, if you are willing to turn your bicycle into a 'moped-chopper-lite' - suit your fancy, I guess...
 
20 mph setup for 90 cadence is just about right for decent weather conditions.

When ever the wind blows you best hope its behind you or you will find yourself half in speed rapid.

Middrives have an advantage when the going gets tough been able to readjust gearing to maintain efficiency both of the human and motor been matched to work at simular rpm range.

Its not easy pedaling into the wind you have to be narrow and wear plenty of lycra to stand a decent chance.
 
The Madmadscientist said:
LewTwo said:
Every time I see a picture of that frame I wonder:
"have there ever been reports of small animals (cats, dogs, squirrels ...) having been gored by that pointy down-tube".

When I was in grad school a good buddy of mine had a squirrel try to jump thru his front wheel at about 25mph. Decapitated the rodent but my friend went over the handle bars. Nasty road rash and a broken collar bone. Thankgod he was wearing a helmet.

I can tell you from experience that there's no winner when there's an exploding animal involved.
 
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