Transporting heavy ebikes - show me your solution

calab said:
Would a heavy heavy guy like chalo put much faith in folding pedals?
Be something in the back of the mind to not think about while riding for a guy like chalo.

I've never used folding pedals, but some of them seem trustworthy. (Some of them don't.)

The ones that give me the willies are the quick disconnect kind. Those spindles are too skinny for my liking, and the threaded studs too thin-walled.

Road-MTB-Bike-Quick-Release-Pedals-Aluminum-Alloy-Bearing-Folding-Bike-Safety-Reflective-Pedal-Bicycle-Part.jpg


I've broken regular pedals clean off of my bikes a few times, so I try to discriminate.
 
nicobie said:
If you do decide to carry your bike in the back of a pickup or van try not to flop in on the derailer side as it will bend the derailer bracket for sure. I found this out the hard way. :oops:

I think tie downs are needed, for public safety, even if you lie them on their sides. It's one thing to have a 25 lb bike fly through the air in case of a sudden stop or accident, but 90 lbs could take a few people out.
 
The motorcycle carrier should work good for one bike. I just did not mention that because I haven't used one yet. Trying to talk about things I have actually done here. About same cost as a swagman carrier.

I like my tri fold ramp for the truck, from HF. I can ride up it, but walk the motorcycle back down it. So you could walk the bike up it under power. I don't like the idea of trying to ride down a skinny ramp backwards.
 
dogman dan said:
The motorcycle carrier should work good for one bike. I just did not mention that because I haven't used one yet. Trying to talk about things I have actually done here. About same cost as a swagman carrier.

I like my tri fold ramp for the truck, from HF. I can ride up it, but walk the motorcycle back down it. So you could walk the bike up it under power. I don't like the idea of trying to ride down a skinny ramp backwards.

I have a pair of those alu harborfright truck rams,
This is doable, I don't have to lift the bike,
I walk up one ramp and walk the bike up another ramp.

I watched a moto guy do it, he held the brake lever with one hand and walked the bike up with throttle,

The problem is with ebike I have to stay off the brake and just use the throttle but good to have the brake ready for emergency stops, lol.

I think we might have winner here. I have to mock it up, my bed is bit high so let's see.

Yes, I tie everything down with ratchet straps.

FYI: anything flies off you bed in CA, it is a hefty fine and possible jail, law since CHP officer was killed with a flying wheelbarrow.
 
gobi said:
I watched a moto guy do it, he held the brake lever with one hand and walked the bike up with throttle,
You sure that wasn't the clutch lever?
 
If possible, look for a small hill or bump for loading and unloading. Makes it real easy to use the ramp. Ride it right up if you can. I bought the wide tri fold ramp to give me more room for error hitting that ramp. And can walk the moto up it if I want, with motor help.
 
Concerning the quick-disconnect pedals, I am 200 lbs and I have had them for a couple years with no issues. I typically only take off the one opposite of the derailler (left side pedal), and that way when its stored and I have to squeeze-by the ebike and some boxes, I dont hit my leg on it.

The derailleur and remaining pedal are between the ebike and the wall near the entrance of my garage.

When I hear that a pedal has broken, I suspect a low-grade of recycled steel was used without any heat-treating.

The fitting is exactly like a hydraulic QD, and pulling back the spring-loaded collet allows a circle of ball bearings to retract.

Something else that helps transportation:

I also appreciate having a front disc brake along with a QD axle, and this combination allows me to remove the front wheel easily, and without any tools.
 
Ron I enjoy your articles on your website, they are perfect for us newbies to get rounded on the topics on ebiking.

QD pedals are going to be on my list,

I drive a full size diesel chevy, long bed crew cab and the height of the tailgate when lowered is in the nosebleed territory.
Though I have the hb ramps that was mentioned here, I am not comfortable walking up with the bike. I am scared of heights. I have ran simulations of using a ladder instead of the ramp for moi, but I dunno.

The hb el cheapo moto tail gate carrier is looking more and more attractive, the only problem is figuring out where I will store it during the 9 months of winter in MI, if I leave it in the truck bed, it might walk, maybe I can chain it to the bed tied downs.

I will swing my local PD and ask them about the lic plate obstruction, not sure, but maybe I can attach a life side print out laminated to my hitch thing :D
 
Well, actually, what your truck needs is a lift tailgate. Pricy. But if you are driving a balloon chase truck, you may as well have the lift gate on it, that every balloon truck needs.

Downside, EVERYBODY will want you to help them move. So if you buy a liftgate, you better get the appliance dolly too. :lol:

Seriously though. If you have that much truck, you will never regret putting a lift gate on it. If you have the really old truck, the gate can be found used for fairly cheap. Newer trucks need a narrower one. But the gates out last trucks, so you might find one fairly cheap, even if your truck is only 10 years old.
 
Have not completed it yet, but this is my setup:
Using this 22x60" aluminum hitch carrier:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKGS149/?coliid=I2MBVE3V61N0BN&colid=H89155HI0080&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Wheel chocks are bent #4 rebar. Center post is 2x2 steel bar. Uses tie down straps.
Untitled.jpg
 
pullin-gs said:
Have not completed it yet, but this is my setup:
Using this 22x60" aluminum hitch carrier:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKGS149/?coliid=I2MBVE3V61N0BN&colid=H89155HI0080&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Wheel chocks are bent #4 rebar. Center post is 2x2 steel bar. Uses tie down straps.
Untitled.jpg

Really like this. Please show detailed photos once completed!
 
That is pretty cheap with free shipping. I wonder how sturdy it really is, you might have to beef it up.

pullin-gs said:
Have not completed it yet, but this is my setup:
Using this 22x60" aluminum hitch carrier:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKGS149/?coliid=I2MBVE3V61N0BN&colid=H89155HI0080&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Wheel chocks are bent #4 rebar. Center post is 2x2 steel bar. Uses tie down straps.
Untitled.jpg
 
dogman dan said:
Well, actually, what your truck needs is a lift tailgate. Pricy. But if you are driving a balloon chase truck, you may as well have the lift gate on it, that every balloon truck needs.

Downside, EVERYBODY will want you to help them move. So if you buy a liftgate, you better get the appliance dolly too. :lol:

Seriously though. If you have that much truck, you will never regret putting a lift gate on it. If you have the really old truck, the gate can be found used for fairly cheap. Newer trucks need a narrower one. But the gates out last trucks, so you might find one fairly cheap, even if your truck is only 10 years old.

Lift gates rock, in college I had to drive the food service delivery truck a few times for some big events at the union, my neighbors have called they city on me a few times already, for having big work trucks. I will have to peek at the $$$$ involved, last I looked it was about $4k. So I decided to pay Lowes to haul away my broken appliances.

My tailgate is 37 inches high and with a ramp that is about 82 inches, I get a 26 degree slope to climb up,
I could date a tall strong woman to help me haul the bikes :eek:
 

Attachments

  • truch.jpg
    truch.jpg
    172.3 KB · Views: 1,055
Chalo said:
I've broken regular pedals clean off of my bikes a few times, so I try to discriminate.
... but you can put more of strain on the pedals than some of us that have a somewhat lower affinity for the earth's gravity.
 
calab said:
That is pretty cheap with free shipping. I wonder how sturdy it really is, you might have to beef it up.

pullin-gs said:
Have not completed it yet, but this is my setup:
Using this 22x60" aluminum hitch carrier:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKGS149/?coliid=I2MBVE3V61N0BN&colid=H89155HI0080&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Wheel chocks are bent #4 rebar. Center post is 2x2 steel bar. Uses tie down straps.
Untitled.jpg
Thanks for the suggestion. Noted.
I would not use it for 500lbs. Both my ebikes come in at around 1/3 of carrier's maximum 500lb capacity.
1200 reviews, 3% are one-star. Of those not a single failure....complaints mostly quality control issues.
 
I wouldnt even trust the rated 500lb capacity, it would be like the 500km range ebike makers claim on a 400wh battery or the 50C discharge rating lipo makers claim. If it looks beefy I would still be suspicious, the cheapest metals possible is their key points, so I would beef it up no matter what, wouldnt cost much if anything for peace of mind going 50mph on the roadway with thousands of dollars worth of bicycle on the rear platform.
But you have a point, failures would generate claims but it could very well be a review farm doing those reviews, you just never know these days.


pullin-gs said:
Thanks for the suggestion. Noted.
I would not use it for 500lbs. Both my ebikes come in at around 1/3 of carrier's maximum 500lb capacity.
1200 reviews, 3% are one-star. Of those not a single failure....complaints mostly quality control issues.
 
New lift gate is not going to be affordable. But as time goes by, you might look for used ones. You'd get one from a junkyard most likely. Really nice to have a ride up into a truck bed that high, whatever you may carry. Superb way to load dogs, by lowering it halfway to make a step. They also make lift motorcycle carriers.

Not as hard to install as you might think. Place the gate on the ground with it lowered and connect to a battery. Maybe a bit of weight on the gate. Then working the gate will lift the mount up to where you can back the truck into it. A few holes to drill and a few bolts, but nothing too hard. Then you just need a large wire from your battery back to the gate.
 
dogman dan said:
New lift gate is not going to be affordable. But as time goes by, you might look for used ones. You'd get one from a junkyard most likely. Really nice to have a ride up into a truck bed that high, whatever you may carry. Superb way to load dogs, by lowering it halfway to make a step. They also make lift motorcycle carriers.

Not as hard to install as you might think. Place the gate on the ground with it lowered and connect to a battery. Maybe a bit of weight on the gate. Then working the gate will lift the mount up to where you can back the truck into it. A few holes to drill and a few bolts, but nothing too hard. Then you just need a large wire from your battery back to the gate.

Agree, lift gates will make a lot of my tasks easier on my back.
Unfortunately I live in a little town of people who don't work much and are very bothered by my non-conforming vehicles. Adding a liftgate might drive them to double up their hot yoga classes and gawd knows what. Few years back, some nice neighbor insisted the city comes and inspects my truck for "work shite", surreal but such is life. Poke er I shall not try :).

Rear Carriers:
1. Alu vs all steel. I am fond of Alu as it is light,

2. Tie down - Looking at the ladder type rear moto carriers, how best to tie the bike down?
 
I learned while I was doing a lot of windsurfing, that you should double up anything tying shit down. So that meant a third bungee in the middle for that.

For the bikes on my rear carriers, It had a ratchet and hook that clamped down the bike easily. But I'd back it up with bungees on the wheels.

I'd strap your bike down with ratchet straps into the carrier, like you would a motorcycle, then bungee the wheels to the carrier. It would suck to drag a bike that came loose, but it would suck more to send it into somebodies windshield.
 
This is what I use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RFKBEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can load my Ride1Up 700, a RadRunnerPlus, a kids 26", and a 16" kids bike. It handles the weight well. The RadRunnerPlus has 4" tires that didn't fit into the "braces" that strap to the tires. Another nice thing about this carrier is, I can load other items instead of bikes, like coolers, or wood. Dual purpose things are the best things.
 
dogman dan said:
I learned while I was doing a lot of windsurfing, that you should double up anything tying shit down. So that meant a third bungee in the middle for that.

For the bikes on my rear carriers, It had a ratchet and hook that clamped down the bike easily. But I'd back it up with bungees on the wheels.

I'd strap your bike down with ratchet straps into the carrier, like you would a motorcycle, then bungee the wheels to the carrier. It would suck to drag a bike that came loose, but it would suck more to send it into somebodies windshield.

I don't see any vertical arms in the harborfright model, not sure if it comes with it,
So put some straps over the frame of the bike,

I will safer with some vertical support or something to tie it down vertically.
 
slaphappygamer said:
This is what I use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RFKBEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can load my Ride1Up 700, a RadRunnerPlus, a kids 26", and a 16" kids bike. It handles the weight well. The RadRunnerPlus has 4" tires that didn't fit into the "braces" that strap to the tires. Another nice thing about this carrier is, I can load other items instead of bikes, like coolers, or wood. Dual purpose things are the best things.

Nice, I have an alu one I bought to transport a handicap scooter for grandma when she had her issue with her nerve in her calf. I can add something to hang/hold on to the wheels,
I wonder if the flat surface will be long enough for the wheel base of MTBs?
 
Back
Top