ktronik said:
Back wheel axial, 'slides' out from the right or left...then wheel falls out... good for what its made for but not good for hub motors...as your hub motor axial, don't slide...so you won't even be able to but your wheel into the tips, unless you mod you inclosed tip... that's the first real problem...
second is the axial will be bigger than normal, 12 or 15mm OD so that adds to the hassle as your hub motor's 'slotted axial' should be pretty close to normal bike size, so stopping the axial from spinning will need a good 'arm' that could take most of the load...
hope this helps
Ktronik
Ktronik- thanks for the post. What exactly is an "inclosed tip"? Also, what do you think would be the best way to construct the torque arm and other parts? I think I understand what you mean, however a picture would be extremely helpful. If you could find a pic or draw on the pic I posted it would be extremely helpful
amberwolf said:
That bike is totally unsuitable for anything at all, and would be best donated to the Electricle project to be used for parts.
:lol: (kidding, you know?)
Anyway, from the look of those removable rear dropouts they are probably alloy (aluminum). If I were putting a rear hub on there, I'd make new dropouts from thick plate steel, preferably clamping style like John in CR and others have made. (these do appear to be clamping style, but it does not look very large and I can't see how big the axle hole itself is or if it uses flats or not).
If you make your own you can follow the template of the originals, including disk caliper bolt-on points, but with a longer clamp arm for placing your axle, etc.
haha, i wish it was unsuitable. but now that I know it has potential to be electrified i cant resist.
I think those rear dropout parts are aluminum. like the rest of the frame. Do you have a pic of the "clamping style" plate John in CR made? does this refer to the those wheels that have a lever attached to the axle? ...sorry, my bike terminology needs work.
dogman said:
Looks to me like you will be using the services of a top notch metal fabricator, to get a rear hub on that. Fortunately, the way that dropout piece bolts on, you should be able to have it duplicated in cromoly in the form of a closed torque arm instead of a dropout. It will be hell to change a tire, but it should work.
What hub to choose depends on what you plan on doing, and how fast you plan on doing it. Batteries will depend on how long you plan to do it. Lipo of really high c rate could be as small as 5 ah for a huge motor. But for longer rides you'd need more of course, and the c rate could be lower then.
Might want to re think RC, since the same fabricator could make you what you need to do that. Especially if you plan on ascending a ski slope.
Hi dogman- I hope to get it to go ~35mph. I don't think I will need crazy speed. I would like to get a ~24 mile range. My furthest commute one way is around 12 miles. I have the option to charge up over there but Im not sure how long that will take me. RC isnt bad but I need something quiet. I'm in the NY metro area and the less attention I get from authorities the better.
Hyena said:
cool looking bike, but what's with that rear brake assembly and rod ? Is that aftermarket or meant to be like that ?
Hi Hyena- That's an aftermarket part that is currently not on my bike. The pic is from another Stab Prime owners bike page. I didn't get a chance to take pics of my bike yet. Maybe this weekend I will have better pics to show of my own bike. For the most part, everything is similar. You can check out this site if your interested in a floating brake:
http://2btherapy.com/index.php/bikes/brake-therapy-floating-brake-kit
Since my bike is a 2001 they were custom made at the time, however now all the Kona DH bikes come with one stock.
buzzfirst said:
Maybe you can remove the dropouts, install on hub motor axle, reinstall motor and dropouts as a unit.
good idea, i think this will require some custom fabrication. I doubt I can find something that will be compatible. If you know of anything that will be "plug and play" please let me know.
AussieJester said:
mwkeefer said:
Awesome ride and yea can be electrified - but I think anything short of a light weight RC drive system would be blasphemy on such a nice ride
Definitely...and as DogMan said even fitting a frock motor on this
bike is going to require some serious fabbed dropouts, might
as well put this fabrication cost into a setup that will offer performance
more worthy of this bike...IMO... I think the bigger challenge is getting
batteries fitted, or should i say any reasonable amount of batteries added...
Looks like s tiny frame.
KiM
Hi Kim- I'm starting to see what probs I'm going to encounter. I'm going to weigh out all the options before a I make a final decision. Right now I'm bias towards a hub setup. I know, I know the "dark-side" is always more fun. But, I'm a newb and don't think I have the technical know how to pull a R/C drive off on my own. Also, I need something quiet.
spinningmagnets said:
Could you measure the inside distance between the rear drop-outs? Some hub-motors are wide. Simple to spread the drops a few mm on some frames if needed,...maybe a problem with your frame.
Hi SM- the inner distance when I measure last with my calipers looked to be 135mm. Mind you this was at night in a dark garage with the gf waiting in the car to get home. Nonetheless, I think I got a good measurement on it. Also, the frame is Aluminum according to bikepedia... more specs here: http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2001&Brand=Kona&Model=Stab%20Primo&Type=bike
torker said:
Nice ride. Not near enough room in that triangle for enough batts to go 24 mi. but it looks like you may be able to fab a long thin enclosure below the triangle. Just have to check for front tire clearance under full compression.
Hi Torker- Thanks. I was afraid I wouldn't have enough space in the triangle. I was thinking of doing a mix of packing some batts in the triangle and some along the bottom of the triangle as you suggested. I will check to see how close that front tire gets to that part of the frame. If its too close I might consider getting a smaller tire/rim.
knoxie said:
Thats a seriously nice machine and I agree with Kim on this one, this bike is itching for an RC rig, somrthing you can bolt on and off, you can cram a small pack of lipo in there somewhere I reckon.
Like this machine.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=19052
Check the video for the power, you may have seen this already.
Good luck with your project, watching with interest
Knoxie
oh mann Knoxie, that video made me drool.
Like I said before, I would need some serious help if I go R/C.
How do R/C's compare in efficiency to hub motors? Would they use 1/2 the amount of packs a hub would use for the same distance and speed?
Also, these things are CRAZY loud. Is there a way to stealthify an R/C drive?
And how does an R/C do in the bad weather (rain, snow)?