controller upgrade questions

Skippo said:
$65 48v 10.5ah battery with 30a BMS from ellectrico.

Do the math.

A 48V 10.5Ah pack would be at least 13S3P, if made with high quality (3500mAh) cells. 13S3P is 39 cells total. A decent 18650 cell goes for about $5.

39 cells would come to $195, that's without the BMS, and labor to put the pack together. You paid $65, which is $1.67 per cell, if they were high quality cells, but since they're Chinese junk, you probably need 13S4P or 13S5P to get to 10.5Ah. That's $1.25 or $1 per cell, respectively.

Math doesn't add up. Your problem is a junk battery, sagging under even the slightest load.
 
You are right it the 3 pin for the 30amp. Too bad.
I agree with you on the thinner tires with smooth thread lower roll resistance. That why I never understand why people want those fat tire bike.
I can't justify getting $100 set tires on my 300ish ebike now. But next set I be sure to try those CST.
So the g020 motor. 350w the same as the 500w. Since they output about the same.

I just took another ride and did get to the 22-23mph like you guys. Thats good enough for me for now. :lol:
THANK YOU
Chalo and everyone.
 
Skippo said:
This is what I got
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=112931

Well that's a pretty great deal if the packs test out. Do you have a way of monitoring voltage while you are riding?
 
E-HP said:
Skippo said:
This is what I got
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=112931

Well that's a pretty great deal if the packs test out. Do you have a way of monitoring voltage while you are riding?

Yes the c18 display show voltage. But it is very small at the corner. Hard to read when the number change fast as I throttle.
 
Skippo said:
Yes the c18 display show voltage. But it is very small at the corner. Hard to read when the number change fast as I throttle.

If you can get a sense of how much the voltage sags, you can figure out whether your problem is attributable to the battery or not.

On a Huffy, you're probably better off at 17 mph anyway.
 
E-HP said:
Skippo said:
This is what I got
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=112931

Well that's a pretty great deal if the packs test out.

The packs are old, by the seller's admission. They're probably still decent value if you derate them enough. I'd want to bundle four of them for my 35A bikes, to discharge at less than 1C.
 
DrV said:
So I currently have a Bafang 48v/500w rear hub motor and the controller for it is 20a max. I am considering upgrading to a KT controller (25A) to get a little more power out of the motor. It seems no one really makes a controller over about 20-22 amps that is a direct swap for the type of controller that typically comes with bafang hub drives, at least those for the motors rated at 500w or less (the higher wattage bafang motors have a 3 pin connection for the motor instead of the 9 pin that I have). So I have a few questions about exactly what to order (and yes, I have been doing a good bit of research).

1. I am planning on ordering a controller like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32960618313.html?spm=2114.12057483.detail.3.5fa33c25N1pAK5 and am wanting the 25a WP model as it looks like it has the HIGO connectors. Will I be able to use my current 1-5 cable to run the display and throttle. (the connectors look the same) or do I need to order the 1-5 cable specifically for that controller?
2. I currently have an 850c display that came with the motor, and from what I have been reading, it looks like I will have to order a different display for the KT controller. Can someone confirm this?
3. Should my current pedal assist (magnet wheel) work with the new controller if the connectors look the same?
4. It looks like there are KT controllers that have a higher amperage, but the controller motor connection is a 3 pin (which comes on the larger bafang hub motors) rather than the 9 pin (which comes on mine). Would something like this https://electrobikeworld.com/products/3pin-male-to-9pin-female-motor-adapter allow me to connect my motor with the 9 pin connection to a controller expecting a three pin connection (I know that the the three pin connection actually carries up to 8 inputs/connection signals)?

Thanks in advance!!


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32972891560.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.3c33a61dEHNaOe&algo_pvid=22ef8a7a-24ae-4ec1-baa3-9ddb97804b58&algo_exp_id=22ef8a7a-24ae-4ec1-baa3-9ddb97804b58-2&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000020891709775%22%7D

you can ask them to customize the cable that you need for this project if you want.
 
I inflated my tires to the max recommend level. And find a longer stretch flat path.
So I guess the battery are all right. I order 2 and plan to run them parallel, that should make thing more stable and hopefully safer.
 
Tires and other things you will think more about later. If you start putting a lot of miles and get flats then you will value tires more. If you lose interest then you will have saved some money. I know it's crazy but I spend more money on my bike tires than the car. The big difference is the cheap tires ran 500 miles for $20 (1 flat), the good tires $50 over 5000 miles (still going). Yes, ten times better and no flats. The other thing is they are faster. My front gained me 3 mph and they roll like crazy. They hold more air pressure.
by Skippo » Oct 06 2021 8:45pm

I inflated my tires to the max recommend level. And find a longer stretch flat path.
So I guess the battery are all right. I order 2 and plan to run them parallel, that should make thing more stable and hopefully safer.

Was thinking the same thing 4 sounds like a deal if they would last couple years of light use.
by Chalo » Oct 05 2021 8:43pm
E-HP wrote: ↑Oct 05 2021 7:28pm
Skippo wrote: ↑Oct 05 2021 4:54pm
This is what I got
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=112931
Well that's a pretty great deal if the packs test out.
The packs are old, by the seller's admission. They're probably still decent value if you derate them enough. I'd want to bundle four of them for my 35A bikes, to discharge at less than 1C.
 
ZeroEm said:
Tires and other things you will think more about later. If you start putting a lot of miles and get flats then you will value tires more. If you lose interest then you will have saved some money. I know it's crazy but I spend more money on my bike tires than the car. The big difference is the cheap tires ran 500 miles for $20 (1 flat), the good tires $50 over 5000 miles (still going). Yes, ten times better and no flats. The other thing is they are faster. My front gained me 3 mph and they roll like crazy. They hold more air pressure.

What do you recommend for tire and tube? So I know for future purchase.
Chalo recommended CST Sensamo Master. Welcome all tested suggestions.
 
Chalo works on far more bikes than any of us. Don't know the tires but would try them. Run what you have and buy your next set. Start have flats or they wear fast then change them. Keep them around for spares. A good set will last.

Everyone here rides differently and over different roads. Road tires are fast and durable. Do not have much tread but last. If you ride off road then you would be after a different tire. My tires are narrow and fast (high pressure) but feels like your rolling on steel wheels. Want a softer ride go with wider tires (lower pressure). You will figure out what you want or need. Watch your rim width.

Everyone here is always looking for a better tire. Remember bike tires are not made for high speed. Some have speed rating. Highest is around 25 mph. Remember that when you want to go 50. That is when people change to moped wheels. They are heavy and slow.

Tubes, the thicker the better. Don't stress about them. I have tried slime and thicker tubes. Slime is a mess, would avoid it and thicker tubes are not that important if you have good tires. Just keep plenty of air in them, a low tire will not last long. My tires lose about 20 psi a week. They go down to 20 psi and stay, sorta of crazy.
by Skippo » Oct 07 2021 11:33pm

Z
ZeroEm wrote: ↑Oct 07 2021 9:26pm
Tires and other things you will think more about later. If you start putting a lot of miles and get flats then you will value tires more. If you lose interest then you will have saved some money. I know it's crazy but I spend more money on my bike tires than the car. The big difference is the cheap tires ran 500 miles for $20 (1 flat), the good tires $50 over 5000 miles (still going). Yes, ten times better and no flats. The other thing is they are faster. My front gained me 3 mph and they roll like crazy. They hold more air pressure.
What do you recommend for tire and tube? So I know for future purchase.
Chalo recommended CST Sensamo Master. Welcome all tested suggestions.
 
Re: tires

On my own e-bikes right now I'm using Kenda Kwick Drumlin. It's an excellent tough, durable, and puncture resistant tire, but also a little heavy and not as fast as some other tires. On most of my pedal bikes I use Panaracer Ribmo, which I've also used on my e-bike in the past. It has way more puncture resistance than its nice ride quality would suggest.

I was happy with CST Sensamo Master, and I think it's good value. I think the 26" version is only made in 1.75" width, which was right for my bike but may not suit everyone's purposes.
 
DrV said:
So I currently have a Bafang 48v/500w rear hub motor and the controller for it is 20a max. I am considering upgrading to a KT controller (25A) to get a little more power out of the motor. It seems no one really makes a controller over about 20-22 amps that is a direct swap for the type of controller that typically comes with bafang hub drives, at least those for the motors rated at 500w or less (the higher wattage bafang motors have a 3 pin connection for the motor instead of the 9 pin that I have). So I have a few questions about exactly what to order (and yes, I have been doing a good bit of research).

1. I am planning on ordering a controller like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32960618313.html?spm=2114.12057483.detail.3.5fa33c25N1pAK5 and am wanting the 25a WP model as it looks like it has the HIGO connectors. Will I be able to use my current 1-5 cable to run the display and throttle. (the connectors look the same) or do I need to order the 1-5 cable specifically for that controller?
2. I currently have an 850c display that came with the motor, and from what I have been reading, it looks like I will have to order a different display for the KT controller. Can someone confirm this?
3. Should my current pedal assist (magnet wheel) work with the new controller if the connectors look the same?
4. It looks like there are KT controllers that have a higher amperage, but the controller motor connection is a 3 pin (which comes on the larger bafang hub motors) rather than the 9 pin (which comes on mine). Would something like this https://electrobikeworld.com/products/3pin-male-to-9pin-female-motor-adapter allow me to connect my motor with the 9 pin connection to a controller expecting a three pin connection (I know that the the three pin connection actually carries up to 8 inputs/connection signals)?

Thanks in advance!!

Any progress on your upgrade?
Please report back and let us know what you did, and the end result.
Haha mostly for me since I have the same kit as you.😁
 
Yeah, I haven't done anything to upgrade yet. Like I said in my previous posts, I would like more amps for a little extra boost going up hills. The motor with the standard 22 amp controller will push my trike to 30 mph on the flats, but I really only ride between 14 - 18 with the occasional 20. I just have a really steep hill I would like to get up faster. One option I've seen for a higher wattage controller with a standard bafang 9 pin plug is at Grin. I'm still considering this, but it also means I need a cycle analyst. Still waiting to pull the trigger on this, as I would probably want the torque sensing bottom bracket too, but don't know yet when I really want to do the work to set all that up (or spend that much money!! lol).

https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/controllers/baserunner-z9-controller-stand-alone.html
 
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