E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Theodore Voltaire]

Hi all new stealth owner here

I recived my 2013 stealth fighter #121 from revolution Cycles a few days ago. The bike is awesome and was running great till yday. I let my friend have a go and the battery died on him before he made it back.

My cycle analyst version 3 now shows the fault "low V" after it boots up and I can't clear it.

I tryed resetting the bms by unplugging the dc output from the battery but I still get the low V fault

The battery is fully charged and I get 56volts dc tested using a fluke multimeter
The bike still goes but at reduced speed and with no stats from the cycle analyst except for "low V" fault

The bike is still under warranty I've only had it for a week any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

kmes, do you have a copy of the CA3 user guide? If not pm me, and I'll email you a copy.

 

[Rix]

my guess is your Vmin setting could possibley be set higher than your settled charge voltage. If that isn't he case, you could rule out the CA by disconnecting it and running your bike without the CA. Hey Hyena or Kepler, care to chime in on this?

Yep, sound logic Rix.
kmes, first thing you need to do is speak to your friend and find out (truthfully) if he was fiddling with the CA settings. If so then what Rix said above could be the fault. Otherwise if it's still under warranty and it was just a random failure then take it back to your dealer.
If you're close to ebikes.ca I guess it doesnt hurt to swing by and ask if they can flash the firmware but it's not technically their job to fix it, just the same as you don't rock up to Bosch headquarters when the waterpump in your [insert car model] fails.

I can't honestly say I've seen that error before. Normally if it's low voltage cut out you'll still see the parameters on the screen and the motor just won't work. Or if it's the shutdown voltage is too high it'll power down (but I always set this very low)

It could also be that the firmware has become corrupted and needs to be reflashed. I dont know when stealth started fitting CA V3s but I've got #131 sold in June 2013 so yours was probably made closer to the start of 2013 meaning it's running an old pre-lim version of firmware. If your dealer is cluey it's 5 minutes work to reflash the CA though I recall a few cases a year or 2 back of people having their CAs just swapped out when they played up.

Thanks Jay for the assist. I have never seen that error code either, and I don't have as many years as you do with the CA's so it was an educated stab in the dark. @ Kmes, when you find the solution, share it with us.

 

[kmes_2000]

Thanks Hyena

You are right my cycle analyst v3 does say prelim when it boots up. I have tryed to make changes in the setup but it won't let me modify any of the parameters it just says "ok" when I try. I will take the bike Grin tomorrow and maybe I can purchase a sync cable from them. The bike didn't come with the owners manual or the cycle analyst guide but I was able to find the .pdf online.
I live in Vancouver British Columbia and got the bike shipped from revolution cycles in Edmonton Alberta so it might be easier to try to fix it myself. Revolution is a stocking dealership I payed $7000 cad for there last remaing Orange 2013 fighter. So the bike has been sitting in there shop for a while.

Anyone know how the cycle analyst is removed? It looks glued to frame

Thanks again all its an awesome bike even when it broken lol
I'll post again when I know more

 

[Merlin]

Hi anyone know if this would do the job,new rim for my rear wheel
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171390502921

No that rim is crap, it's only 32 hole, you need 36

not nice to hear or read stuff like that.

SAS Rims are state of the art in Downhill.
i Prefer (now) also MX Rims. But who wants to go with Bicycle Rims can do that with Mavic EX 729 or SAS Rims.

 

[remf]

Thanks Hyena

You are right my cycle analyst v3 does say prelim when it boots up. I have tryed to make changes in the setup but it won't let me modify any of the parameters it just says "ok" when I try. I will take the bike Grin tomorrow and maybe I can purchase a sync cable from them. The bike didn't come with the owners manual or the cycle analyst guide but I was able to find the .pdf online.
I live in Vancouver British Columbia and got the bike shipped from revolution cycles in Edmonton Alberta so it might be easier to try to fix it myself. Revolution is a stocking dealership I payed $7000 cad for there last remaing Orange 2013 fighter. So the bike has been sitting in there shop for a while.

Anyone know how the cycle analyst is removed? It looks glued to frame

Thanks again all its an awesome bike even when it broken lol
I'll post again when I know more

Hey kmes looks like you got the experts to help you narrow down the issue.

Just pull the CA off with a *tiny* little bit of force under a corner. It's fixed on with sturdy double-sided tape but will give way eventually.

 

[Jimboyr6]

How about this one ?
I here what everyones saying bout go mx rim i just like how it is,less weight and looks wise,but if i can get a better stronger rim that looks standard then id go for that,
Thanks for input people :wink:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/odyssey-hazard-lite-24-rim/rp-prod51028

PS anyone know spoke hole sizes thay need to have ?

 

[Rix]

Hi anyone know if this would do the job,new rim for my rear wheel
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171390502921

No that rim is crap, it's only 32 hole, you need 36

not nice to hear or read stuff like that.

SAS Rims are state of the art in Downhill.
i Prefer (now) also MX Rims. But who wants to go with Bicycle Rims can do that with Mavic EX 729 or SAS Rims.

I think TV meant that the rim is crap for not being able to fit becuase of the 32 hole drill, not because of quality. Of course that rim is high quality and strong. I did see at the bottom that we can get those in 36 hole drills so it can work on hubmotors.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

When you're looking for rims for a Bomber keep in mind, the rear spokes are 3.2 mm = 10g. You won't find many bicycle rims for 10g spokes, but you can drill out the spoke holes if they don't have steel eyelets.

 

[1abv]

Hey all does anyone know what rider/race sag is supposed to be for the bomber? Can't find it in the manual

Thx

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Hey all does anyone know what rider/race sag is supposed to be for the bomber? Can't find it in the manual

Thx

Normally for most bikes it's about 3/4" to 1 1/4", but for a Bomber it's kind of a moot point. Unless you weigh over 220 lbs you just adjust the preload to the least.

 

[Rix]

Hey all does anyone know what rider/race sag is supposed to be for the bomber? Can't find it in the manual

Thx

What TV said about the sag is a good point, go with about 1.25 inches. Just so you know, 1.25 inches is at the seat. If you take a yard stick and fasten to the seat and meaure the stick direclty over the axle, the sag point there should be about 2-3 inches.

 

[1abv]

Hey all does anyone know what rider/race sag is supposed to be for the bomber? Can't find it in the manual

Thx

What TV said about the sag is a good point, go with about 1.25 inches. Just so you know, 1.25 inches is at the seat. If you take a yard stick and fasten to the seat and meaure the stick direclty over the axle, the sag point there should be about 2-3 inches.

Interesting....
On my motos I set it at around 100mm. So this is a bit different im guessing that 2-3" is about 20-30% of shock travel?

Theodore Voltaire, The issue here is I may be too light for this current spring. If so I will get a custom one made up.

I got my shock back from my guy.. Haven't tried it yet but he did a 3 phase shim stack, changed the oil, and also adjusted the nitrogen levels. The stock shock has a single phase stack. What this means is the valving does not change through the entire stroke. Now with the 3 phase I should have a nice plush initial stroke with good bottoming resistance at the bottom of the stroke. He also adjusted the rebound so that it will react better when climbing rocky uphills where my rear tire would hop and loose traction and also the donkey kick on kicker lip jumps so I don't have to adjust my weight so far to the rear when jumping.

I stand corrected about the helm joints. There is one there.

More to come on suspension.......

Thanks as usual for the great info...

 

[remf]

TIIIIIMBER !!!

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

That's pretty interesting alright. Next I'd like to see one painted like stone blocks.

That reminds me of a customers house I was in onetime. He ask me how I liked his marble floor? It looked real nice to me, and I told his so. Then he informed me he painted it. It was really just a cement floor. Amazing.

 

[proper159]

Hi all
Anyone got thoughts on this small crack coming off one of my spoke hole,its only on 1 of them,should i b worried ??

I would replace immediately. I kept riding my cracked rim and it developed a slight wobble which put stress on my rear axle (especially during regen). The axle then split into two while I was going pretty fast.

 

[Rix]

Hey all does anyone know what rider/race sag is supposed to be for the bomber? Can't find it in the manual


Interesting....
On my motos I set it at around 100mm. So this is a bit different im guessing that 2-3" is about 20-30% of shock travel?

Theodore Voltaire, The issue here is I may be too light for this current spring. If so I will get a custom one made up.

I got my shock back from my guy.. Haven't tried it yet but he did a 3 phase shim stack, changed the oil, and also adjusted the nitrogen levels. The stock shock has a single phase stack. What this means is the valving does not change through the entire stroke. Now with the 3 phase I should have a nice plush initial stroke with good bottoming resistance at the bottom of the stroke. He also adjusted the rebound so that it will react better when climbing rocky uphills where my rear tire would hop and loose traction and also the donkey kick on kicker lip jumps so I don't have to adjust my weight so far to the rear when jumping.

I stand corrected about the helm joints. There is one there.

More to come on suspension.......

Thanks as usual for the great info...

If your compresion is linnear now, go with about 3.5 inches of rider static sag. The reason I recommneded keeping it between 2 and 3 was I didn't want you sagging to far down into the compression circuit, which would actually give you a rougher ride, and small bump compliance would be for shit. But with this revalving, try out with lots of sag. The thing you go to remember is, on motos, we mearuse are sage either from the axle nut straight up to the fender edge, or from the ground up to the fener edge. The bicycle seat being farther forward wont move nearly as much, which is whey I suggested a straight edge that long enough to go from the bike seat to the rear axle. Soounds like you know what you want and what you are doing with suspension set ups so compression rate and sag are you matter of preference, the only tip I want you to give a try is on rebound. What every you would have for rebound speed on your motos, go one click slower on you Bomber. This helps with the unsuspended mass of the rear wheel by slowing it down, and what I mean by that is, you hit a kicker, your rear compresses and as you are in the air, the rear starts extending down ward, with that unsuspended mass of the wheel it also pushes the rear of your bike upwards as the suspension extends. Slowing the rebound down really helps with this. More so than on moto.

 

[Rix]

TIIIIIMBER !!!

This beautiful! Very Very nice.

 

[kmes_2000]

Hi guys

I ran my fighter with the cycle analyst disconnected. It ran better than when the cycle analyst was working I got full power back.

Will it damage my fighter if I run it with the cycle analyst disconnected? It accelerates and goes faster with the ca unplugged.

I brought the bike to grin yday and they gave me a free sync cable and were very helpful. now Im waiting on the custom stealth cycle analyst firmware to be e-mailed to me.
I can't use the stock firmware found on their website because it won't have the correct parameters.

I post again when I flash the firmware.

 

[cut cat]

I would not try to remove case unless you really have to.

Its is hard to remove the 4 screws but once its done, be careful with the flex ribbion cable and detaching. You will be able to simply swap the guts over.

If you insist on removing the whole lot, warm the face of the CA first to soften the 3M double speed tape. Leave it in sun or carefuly heat it with a heat gun. It will be easy to over heat and melt your lense if your not careful with the gun.

Also after you apdate your firmware, take note of all your settings.

 

[Emmett]

I got my shock back from my guy.. Haven't tried it yet but he did a 3 phase shim stack, changed the oil, and also adjusted the nitrogen levels. The stock shock has a single phase stack. What this means is the valving does not change through the entire stroke. Now with the 3 phase I should have a nice plush initial stroke with good bottoming resistance at the bottom of the stroke. He also adjusted the rebound so that it will react better when climbing rocky uphills where my rear tire would hop and loose traction and also the donkey kick on kicker lip jumps so I don't have to adjust my weight so far to the rear when jumping.

On any suspended dirt bike, rider sag (with you in your normal riding position) should be about 1/3 of travel in the rear, and 1/4 of the way down in the front. This can vary a lot depending on circumstances, especially front sag, but for sure you need some sag on both ends so the tire contact patch can stay in contact with the ground when the wheel rolls over a dip. The wheel must be able to drop down/away to follow the ground.

If you want to go with more rear sag, or if for any reason you find you have too much compression progression (too harsh when compressed a lot) in the rear suspension, then you can try using less air/nitrogen pressure in the shock gas res.

The 3-stage damping in your shock is not position sensitive. It's speed sensitive. The ramping up effect you feel in compression further into the stroke is because your shock shaft displaces fluid and pushes it into the res, which compresses the gas bladder/piston. Compressed gas has a progressive spring effect. This is when the travel position comes into things. Your 3 stage stack only cares about piston speed in the fluid.

But if you go too low on the gas pressure then you can run into problems with the oil foaming up. Either when the oil cavitates on very fast/hard comp hits, or just due to repeat stroke loads and heat build up. Once it foams up your shock damping gets real soft so the rear becomes erratic. Commonly known as "shock fade". Forks can fade too, some a lot more than others depending on the design.

2 or 3 stage damping curves are nothing magic. A lot of their benefit depends on personal preference. The stages can be moved around too.

 

[Emmett]

Hey this thread is obviously insanely long. It feels weird posting anything, because anything anyone writes is off topic in some way. There are a 1000 topics in this one thread. If the name means anything, then this thread/topic was originally intended to contain photos and videos of Steath E-bikes. Sure there are many pics, but it's also such a mess.

I want to ask about seat options for the Fighter. But I wont, because there are already 10 active topics in this one thread. changing the subject is in many ways rude. But what to do?

I'm a new user, but the fix seems simple. I don't even know if someone has suggested this already because I don't have the patience to search a zillon posts.

1. A moderator creates a forum named "E-bike Stealth Topics". Then inside it interested people could create separate threads for different topics? Like "Bomber sag settings", or "My cool timber look", or "My Fighter axle problem", etc.
2. The moderator puts a freeze on this thread preventing more posts, with a final post referring and linking to the new forum.

Flame me if I deserve it. I just don't get it, and had to ask.

 

[Allex]

voicecoils have created this thread and his baby has grown to a beautiful Godzilla!
http://www.selleroyal.com/en/comfort/look-athletic
I use this one, never had a sore butt with it even after several hours (over 100km non-stop) of riding.
Did I tell you that my ass is skinny? I like this seat...

 

[stritzky]

Hey this thread is obviously insanely long. It feels weird posting anything, because anything anyone writes is off topic in some way. There are a 1000 topics in this one thread. If the name means anything, then this thread/topic was originally intended to contain photos and videos of Steath E-bikes. Sure there are many pics, but it's also such a mess.

I want to ask about seat options for the Fighter. But I wont, because there are already 10 active topics in this one thread. changing the subject is in many ways rude. But what to do?

I'm a new user, but the fix seems simple. I don't even know if someone has suggested this already because I don't have the patience to search a zillon posts.

1. A moderator creates a forum named "E-bike Stealth Topics". Then inside it interested people could create separate threads for different topics? Like "Bomber sag settings", or "My cool timber look", or "My Fighter axle problem", etc.
2. The moderator puts a freeze on this thread preventing more posts, with a final post referring and linking to the new forum.

Flame me if I deserve it. I just don't get it, and had to ask.

Sounds like the way to go to me.

 

[1abv]

Hey this thread is obviously insanely long. It feels weird posting anything, because anything anyone writes is off topic in some way. There are a 1000 topics in this one thread. If the name means anything, then this thread/topic was originally intended to contain photos and videos of Steath E-bikes. Sure there are many pics, but it's also such a mess.

I want to ask about seat options for the Fighter. But I wont, because there are already 10 active topics in this one thread. changing the subject is in many ways rude. But what to do?

I'm a new user, but the fix seems simple. I don't even know if someone has suggested this already because I don't have the patience to search a zillon posts.

1. A moderator creates a forum named "E-bike Stealth Topics". Then inside it interested people could create separate threads for different topics? Like "Bomber sag settings", or "My cool timber look", or "My Fighter axle problem", etc.
2. The moderator puts a freeze on this thread preventing more posts, with a final post referring and linking to the new forum.

Flame me if I deserve it. I just don't get it, and had to ask.

Sounds like the way to go to me.

If this is an issue for you why don't you start a new thread? Seems simple enough. I like this thread because everything is in one spot and the use of a search has found many answers to many questions. Its always near the top and its keeping a community active and in touch with eachother. Maybe it shouldn't live in the pics area but to break it up into indivual threads would add complication. Not a flame but more of why don't you be proactive and do it yourself? Start your own thread and give a new perspective.

 

[1abv]

On another note thanks everyone for the sag info. Went out and rode the beast this am and I must say the shock it sooo much better now. I'm confident in jumps and kickers not nearly as oh shit as I was before. I don't know all of the ins and outs of what he did but I do know that he put different fluid in it, changed the stack and upped the nitrogen level. Before I was on the limit of my clickers now I'm smack in the middle where the needle is actually doing somthing instead of being bypassed. Now I gotta go back and dial in the front! Because the shock feels better I went faster in some areas and used up all the travel in the forks. Before the max on my 888's was 170mm travel now its at 190mm. More dialing to do... By the way I'm no suspension guru I communicate to my guy what I want and what I'm feeling on the bike and he delivers.
The guy I sent it to was paul at as racing out in southern California he really digs the bike and wants to see what he can do for em.

More to come....