Well, I'm about a week away from getting a Nimh pack from battery space and I just coulden't help but to hook up some SLA's for a test run. Installing the kit went pretty smoothly (26" wheel on a Giant Hybrid bike)- just had to file the inside of the dropouts a hair and the hub motor was in. Routed the wires and the throttle- about an hour or so. I had 3 12 volt SLAs fully charged and ready to go. First thing I noticed is how much torque it has right off the line. After that I was a bit dissapointed. On the flats it does accelerate up to 19 mph ok (I was hoping for about 25). As soon as I hit a hill I definetly have to pedal to make it up. Its almost like a power assist bike at this point and I think its due to the stock controller (15 amps). I hooked up my watts up meter and went for a test run and everything looks ok 15 amps max drawn and about 500 or so watts- folks, this just ain't going to cut it. I expected so much more. Hopfully the 39.6 NiMH pack will help (13 lbs) vs. the about 35-40 lbs of sla I have now. But I have a feeling the controller is the weak link. Also the engine does whine- it's not loud, but its there, guess I'll have to get used to it.I'm not sure what to do now. I think I may need to go to a 48 volt system? and upgrade the controller? would appreciate some advice.
first test ride on BMC hub motor
- Thread starter Tony
- Start date
Nimbuzz
1 kW
I agree with everything you said -- except, as far as I know the idea of these bikes is to be pedal assist, they are not motorcycles -- I have a Ducati for that.
:lol:
:lol:
Hi
Yes the controller is the weak link, you need to feed this with 35A at that voltage to have some fun, although 15A is ok for power assist users. The stock controllers are poor quality thats why we dont sell them, the xlyte controller is the key and NIMH would go a long way. With 48V of Nimh it would do 30mph and would get up there quickly. The stock controller is unreliable at 48V as well.
Your NIMH batteries will help a little however the xlyte controller will really open it up.
Cheers
Knoxie
Yes the controller is the weak link, you need to feed this with 35A at that voltage to have some fun, although 15A is ok for power assist users. The stock controllers are poor quality thats why we dont sell them, the xlyte controller is the key and NIMH would go a long way. With 48V of Nimh it would do 30mph and would get up there quickly. The stock controller is unreliable at 48V as well.
Your NIMH batteries will help a little however the xlyte controller will really open it up.
Cheers
Knoxie
Microbatman
1 kW
Did you get a new controller yet?
BiGH
100 kW
if you haven't bought one yet - you might want to consider one of the 4110 based units from ebikes.ca - combined with a plug in cycle anylist it'd be excellent!
knightmb
100 kW
I was about to say, if you are really going to ramp up the power, consider getting at least one torque arm for the front. I wouldn't power mine over 40MPH down the road without one.
I did a review a while back on the one I bought. Though, you can make one yourself and go about many other ways like others have here. I just bought it to save me some time and effort for a fit and wanted to see how well they worked :wink:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1664
I did a review a while back on the one I bought. Though, you can make one yourself and go about many other ways like others have here. I just bought it to save me some time and effort for a fit and wanted to see how well they worked :wink:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1664
diver
1 kW
knightmb said:
Nice review the pictures helped out a lot for me to understand just what a drop out failure is. My hub motor came with the one you pictured. I wish i had enough axel length to add one more tq arm to the other side also. thanks for the great review
Butch
Nimbuzz
1 kW
Ya, torque arms rule -- and are required by all our moms! One detail though, I don't see how the speed has much to do with it. It is the torque that bends the dropouts and I've known guys that busted their front dropouts while just starting up. This is when the torque can be the most. Or if you're going 10 - 20 mph and hit the throttle you can have torque and be in more danger than while just starting because you're moving. Of course one can damage the dropouts then loose the wheel at any time, at any speed.
If you can only fit one, then keep a sharp eye on your dropouts and keep the axle nuts tight. If they get any wider at all on aluminum there is no doubt that I would throw those forks in the dump. Steel has more stretch range but any stretching of the dropouts is still bad. To get a second torque arm some have used a torque washer on one side, replacing one of the standard axle washers. It is a washer with a square hole like a torque arm but has a tab that bends over to catch something, in the reverse direction on the fork/dropout. It is surprising ( saw a table/chart) how much the torque is reduced by every centimeter you move out from the axle center. And of course the dropout slot is by far the most fragile structure for this type of force. So a big washer with a bent tab that catches any other part of the dropout or fork OR a screw that goes through the torque washer and into the threaded hole for bike racks & fenders -- preferably out the other side and then a nut on it. Even a small screw like this can transfer enough torque to protect the dropouts -- I would use a quality, hardened screw though.
Repeat -- Torque Arms Rule!
If you can only fit one, then keep a sharp eye on your dropouts and keep the axle nuts tight. If they get any wider at all on aluminum there is no doubt that I would throw those forks in the dump. Steel has more stretch range but any stretching of the dropouts is still bad. To get a second torque arm some have used a torque washer on one side, replacing one of the standard axle washers. It is a washer with a square hole like a torque arm but has a tab that bends over to catch something, in the reverse direction on the fork/dropout. It is surprising ( saw a table/chart) how much the torque is reduced by every centimeter you move out from the axle center. And of course the dropout slot is by far the most fragile structure for this type of force. So a big washer with a bent tab that catches any other part of the dropout or fork OR a screw that goes through the torque washer and into the threaded hole for bike racks & fenders -- preferably out the other side and then a nut on it. Even a small screw like this can transfer enough torque to protect the dropouts -- I would use a quality, hardened screw though.
Repeat -- Torque Arms Rule!
Quino, no problems at all with the fork. Of course it is a steel fork- very strong- I feel very safe even with 2000 watts running through it. ( I do have tourque arms fitted tightly to both sides for peace of mind- the laser cut ones that came with the motor) I haven't had one sign of slippage with my set up.
Thanks Tony.
I have to tackle a lot of hills just to go anywhere so I'm considering a geared bushless hub motor from either EV Tech or BMC (or are they the same company?). I spoke with a fellow from EV Tech and he recommended to fit their hub motor in the rear preferably on a steel frame. Your recommendation about a torque arm is a plus. I also have an old Giant ATX750 steel frame mountain bike ready for this project.
Tony, I might solicit your recommendation on where you got your kits/parts and their estimated costs. With a 36V Lithium battery I'm already counting $1,363 from http://www.thesuperkids.com. EV Tech costs very similar..
Cheers,
Q
I have to tackle a lot of hills just to go anywhere so I'm considering a geared bushless hub motor from either EV Tech or BMC (or are they the same company?). I spoke with a fellow from EV Tech and he recommended to fit their hub motor in the rear preferably on a steel frame. Your recommendation about a torque arm is a plus. I also have an old Giant ATX750 steel frame mountain bike ready for this project.
Tony, I might solicit your recommendation on where you got your kits/parts and their estimated costs. With a 36V Lithium battery I'm already counting $1,363 from http://www.thesuperkids.com. EV Tech costs very similar..
Cheers,
Q
Q,
You simply can't go wrong with the EV tech kit. Yes, it's more expensive than the other options -but in this case you do get what you pay for. I haven't looked at the ev tech site in a long while but when I checked their site recently the kit comes with a 25amp controller which should be a great improvement over the old 15amp controller which was in my kit (you shoulden't have to mess with a crystalyte controller in other words). For climbing hills, smoothness and power, this is the kit to get. I would suggest going strait to 48v if at all possible, as the 20-23mph from the 36volts may leave you wanting more.I did get mine thru EV tech. Price $599 for the kit $100 for the rim laced to the motor (they did a good job). $675 for the battery-(I have been using sla so I diden't opt for their battery)- If you want to go with their battery for for ease of use/ plug and play and you have the money I don't blame you- I would personally look at the battery options at ebikes.ca or consider a custom built pack with A123's or even waiting for the lifebat lipo4 packs ( see battery forum).
Regards , Tony
You simply can't go wrong with the EV tech kit. Yes, it's more expensive than the other options -but in this case you do get what you pay for. I haven't looked at the ev tech site in a long while but when I checked their site recently the kit comes with a 25amp controller which should be a great improvement over the old 15amp controller which was in my kit (you shoulden't have to mess with a crystalyte controller in other words). For climbing hills, smoothness and power, this is the kit to get. I would suggest going strait to 48v if at all possible, as the 20-23mph from the 36volts may leave you wanting more.I did get mine thru EV tech. Price $599 for the kit $100 for the rim laced to the motor (they did a good job). $675 for the battery-(I have been using sla so I diden't opt for their battery)- If you want to go with their battery for for ease of use/ plug and play and you have the money I don't blame you- I would personally look at the battery options at ebikes.ca or consider a custom built pack with A123's or even waiting for the lifebat lipo4 packs ( see battery forum).
Regards , Tony
Nimbuzz
1 kW
I agree with all Tony says above. Doug at EV tech has been in the business for years and is an engineer. He gives great support. Justin at ebikes.ca is also an engineer and good supporter.
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