Gadgets on your eBike that you couldn't live without

Yesterday my bike alarm and motion sensor on the tracker were triggered by some shitheal with ill intent. It takes a lot more movement to trigger the tracker and was surprised when I got the SMS from the tracker almost instantly. Maybe a fluke.
It was never going to be easy. The bike was secured with three Kryptonite u-locks plus a chain lock and I take the things that come off easily with me.

I was close enough to hear the alarm and was there in seconds as he was abandoning his ideas... Hello. :evil: He ran. I'd have liked to have given him the lesson he's not receiving at home, a good old fashioned kicking (he was old enough) but that only makes him the victim and me the criminal and we know which one of us the law will go after in this screwed up world.

Tracker is a TKStar TK905B, about $100. Alarms are WSDcam that work surprisingly well considering their price point - $30 for two. Kryptonite locks are the most expensive (and the heaviest). They secure the bike plus a trailer. New York standard was about $150, two Mini 7s were $100 each and the chain lock about $100. I cant replace the bike for under $12k so they are paid for already.

There are other deterrents to the casual thief. Seats are a popular target. I made an expanding plug to go inside my seat post which is attached to a 3mm cable that goes around the bottom bracket. The seat can only be lifted a couple of centimetres. To remove it I have to remove the cranks. Some people use (gear) chain or buy locks for this purpose.
I don't normally need to remove the batteries and they are too heavy to carry around. At the moment I have a couple of pieces of bike chain around my battery. I need a chain tool to remove the chain and trailer frame geometry prevents the battery from sliding out. It'll stop most people. Harder still having to deal with alarms screaming their heads off.
Luggage is also secured with 3mm cable. It is easily cut with pliers and will only stop people from lifting them off and walking away. Luggage camouflages the hub motor to draw less attention.
Screws securing the CA are filled with epoxy. It will be a PITA for me to remove (drill or cut the bolt head), but not just for me. Security is another reason I'd like to go headless.

.
 
TDB said:
I cant replace the bike for under $12k

You're doing it wrong.
 
That was your take away?

I don't ride junk. Most of it is the bike itself.

On the weekend I ride a Pinarello. Go price one of those.
 
TDB said:
That was your take away?

I don't ride junk. Most of it is the bike itself.

On the weekend I ride a Pinarello. Go price one of those.

Oh, I know them. Usually they can't be fixed when others can.

I had a 79 year old customer come in bleeding after a whoopsie on his Pinarello Dogma. I trued up his wheel, let him calm down, and sent him on his way.

He came back later because his little get-off had damaged his paper thin carbon plastic frame and fork both beyond economic repair, and he needed us to strip the components so they could be transferred onto a new multi-thousand dollar yet uselessly fragile frame and fork.

[youtube]bmXvpuseXWU[/youtube]

You're doing it wrong.
 
Well, I'm not the cheap old fatty riding a motorcycle and pretending it is a bicycle.

Maybe you need a better paying job.
 
And yet you're still doing it wrong.
 
I got this little fine tooth, 4 inch long, 1/4 inch drive ratchet a number of years ago. Its unique feature is it will drive my 1/4 metric sockets or my hex screwdriver tips. Unfortunately it is no longer available.

Maxcraft 60199 1/4-Inch Dual-Drive Mini Ratchet Driver
Maxcraft Ratchet 000(1280).JPG
 
I don't see anything wrong with having a very expensive bike. Everybody has different tastes and income levels and there isn't anything wrong with that.

However if you have to go into debt for your bicycle then that 100% isn't a good thing.

Seems like it's more stress then it's worth to have a expensive bike in a theft prone area. To each their own. I know that if I had to store my bike in a theft prone area my choices in what to spend the money on would reflect that. The cost to replace a fixed up used bicycle and basic motor kit is around 500 dollars after everything is said and done. That will still hurt to loose, but it's not the end of the world.

I'd keep the expensive stuff at home and reserve it for fun times.

The key to ebike performance, range, and reliability lies in the battery. And this is where the money gets spent. Luckily most of the time it's easy to take it with you.

Back on topic....

In terms of creature comforts I really prefer to have on bicycles are:

* Front basket. It makes me paranoid to carry things behind me on a bicycle as it's hard to keep a eye on them. Things shift, bounce loose, etc. So it feels better to have things in the front. Having a stretchy net for it is a bonus.

* Large flat pedals. I don't want to have to wear special shoes for comfortable/efficient pedaling.

* A seat that fits me. I don't like gigantic fluffy seats. But I do want one that is wide enough to fit my 'sit bones'.

* Waterproof bag. I like the ones that are rubberized and have a opening that rolls up. Very reliable and also expandable. That way I have a nice place to store my phone and wallet if I get caught in a downpour.

* Swept back handlebars that are at seat level or above. That nerve in the palm of my hands starts getting irritated on long rides with straight bars, so at least some sweep helps with that. Road bike bars are fine, but I don't like the slammed stem thing people do with them. I want to be upright so I can look around and see where I am going without craning my neck.

* Rear view mirror. Only need one, but I like it big and very solidly mounted. It is miserable to have to keep adjusting these stupid things.

* Handlebar mount for my 18650 flashlight so it can be used as a headlight. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TwoFish-9-Lockblocks-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E/ and, if i plan on riding at night, a extra battery to go along with it.

* USB rechargeable rear red light. I don't like blinking rear lights except as small extra light. Bright steady light is the way to go.

* Big tires. Ideally bigger 2 inches. For comfort and so the bike doesn't wallow through dirt or gravel surfaces.

* Extra inner tube and something to inflate it with.

* bicycle multitool

And nice to haves that are lower priorities:

* Rear rack for bigger items.

* USB battery pack for longer trips so I can easily recharge my phone and lights.

* Bluetooth speaker. Usually the phone speaker is loud enough. I don't like speakers on paths and in parks, though unless I am the only person there. It's annoying.

Alternatively I also have a pair of "bone conducting" headphones. These don't cover up the ears. They are nice for a few reasons. One reason is that they don't make your ears sweaty when working out. Another is that they don't block any noises. And a third is that they are not subject to wind noise, unlike most headphones.
 
sleepy_tired said:
I don't see anything wrong with having a very expensive bike.
The problem is constantly trying protect it. I remember riding past a expensive bike someone had left locked to street sign post. Evidently that had a problem and planned to retrieve it. A couple of days later the only thing remaining was the frame. The city eventually came along, cut the lock and removed the eyesore.
 
LewTwo said:
sleepy_tired said:
I don't see anything wrong with having a very expensive bike.
The problem is constantly trying protect it. I remember riding past a expensive bike someone had left locked to street sign post. Evidently that had a problem and planned to retrieve it. A couple of days later the only thing remaining was the frame. The city eventually came along, cut the lock and removed the eyesore.

This is why I am a fan of having at least two bikes. People seem get somewhat obsessed with a bike that can do everything and end up spending a lot of money on a bike that is so-so at everything.

Have a inexpensive unattractive practical commuter that is fast and comfortable on the road. And then have a fun bike for doing whatever you like for fun on bicycles. Mountain bike or whatever.

Plus if you are waiting on parts for one you have a backup if you need to go somewhere in the meantime. Although ideally you should have 3 bikes.. two practical and one fun. But whatever. :p
 
You know how truthful they are in advertising, probably just 900 lumens and lie about it being an honest mistake of 9000 lumens or whatever their lie will be, them liars (usually), you have to be the informed consumer.

This is a gadget you could do without, but it looks cool.
MIles Wide Cable Buddies - https://www.modernbike.com/miles-wide-cable-small-parts

Was actually looking for the plastic clips that pop into its place on the frame to hold the cable, but its just a freebie bike I found, and I honestly do not care how it looks. I will probably build it up, if its at least a 19" frame, 20" is good to but nothing much more then that, I guess a true'ist at my height would probably want 21 or 22" but I like an inch between top bar and my privates.

cal3thousand said:
nechaus said:
9000 lumen torch
Cycle analyst
Variable regen braking


Dude... what light is pumping those lumens?

I have some LED lights from DX that put out a couple hundred lumens and that is WAY brighter than the crap I regularly see on other bikes. What's your setup? HIDs? :shock:
 
In my general experience, except for *real* high-performance LED units, it could take up to a few hundred watts to generate 9000 lumens with an LED array, and it will be on the larger side, and get pretty friggin' hot. :/

There *are* HP LEDs that can do 200+ lumens per watt, taking less than 50w to make 9000 lumens, but I dunno that I believe that light has one. ;)

Random example: this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/262986434095
I used here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102991&p=1506430&hilit=%2Ayard%2A+LED#p1508120
claims about fourteen thousand 14,000 lumens (I don't think it really is) and is a "160w" 12v unit. Gets hot enough to need a huge heatsink that weighs at least several pounds.

test data in this post
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102991&p=1506430&hilit=%2Ayard%2A+LED#p1510415
I don't know what the actual lumen output is, but I'm sure it's nowhere near the claimed output. I wish one of my android devices would operate with lightmeter apps, but none of them will. :( No idea where my photometric lightmeter is; that would tell me in a hurry.
 
Now Gloworm XSV. https://www.glowormlites.co.nz/product-category/lights/

It is a quality product that actually puts out what it says or slightly better and output is customisable.
 
amberwolf said:
iacei said:
Damn! 35€ trashed. I tried sewing conductive wire to my finger but it does not work very well....or I am bad at sewing :lol:
Touchscreens don't use electrically conductive stuff. They just need something that has similar properties to skin (like leather, suede, etc).

And you can "add" fingertips to existing gloves; there's some listed here
https://www.google.com/search?q=touchscreen+fingertips+for+gloves
though I have never used any of them.

Would leather gloves work?
 
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