Well somethings not right..

amberwolf said:
If you do need to oil the bearings and take the cover off to do it, you can usually reach the other bearing thru the stator support frame from the open side and leave the other cover installed.

Yeah good idea :thumb:
But now I’m starting to wonder if the hall sensor is the issue :confused: I don’t know if the hall sensors could create that sound? I’ve tested the voltage and each hall sensor is not going past 3 V is that an issue? From everything I’ve read it looks like it’s supposed to be 0 to 5 V. And I tested the red wire and it sits at 5 V but the blue green and yellow don’t go past 3 while spinning the wheel backwards
 
Motor hall sensors don't output any voltage.

They just ground whatever voltage the controller outputs, whenever they are activated by magnets.

When not activated, their output "floats", so you see whatever voltage the controller places on those lines, minus whatever losses in the wires, plus whatever induced voltages there are in the hall wires from any currents flowing in the phase wires if those are close enough to them to do so, and any other RF or other stray EM that is picked up by the hall wires if they are unshielded (usually they're not).

Typical controllers use around 5v on the hall signal pullups. So there may be something around 4-5v at the halls themselves.

Some controllers use 12v on the pullups, becuase a higher voltage means a greater signal-to-noise ratio, and so the hall signals are clearer and less likely to read falsely than with lower voltages. The hall power supply is usually still only 5v for these controllers.

The typical hall sensor used in ebike motors can have up to 15-30v on the signal line, though they may only be able to handle 5-12v (sometimes up to 20-30v) on the power line. Honeywell SS411A is a common model, though it's often a clone of it rather than the brand name unit.
 
amberwolf said:
They just ground whatever voltage the controller outputs, whenever they are activated by magnets.

Right, but shouldn’t it read close to 5 V on some of the rotation of the wheel? Mine is stopping at 3 V then goes down to 0 as I slowly turn the wheel backwards. I followed the method Justin showed on grin YouTube channel. Even his video showed the voltage going up close to 5 V for all 3 signals. Also being the red wire is actually reading 5 V so I would think the 3 hall sensors would be reading close to that. But I don’t know. I’m scratching my head hard over here trying to sort this :lol: :lol:
This motor is really new and it looks like I may have cooked the hall sensors and messed the bearings up :lol:
I know for sure the bearings need to be changed. That noise is still a mystery.
 
Could this be the issue? The phase wire connections are slightly bent. I’m not sure why that would make a screeching noise? Also I’ll post pictures below of the wires entering the axle everything looks good there. Just the phase wire connections that go to the controller are slightly kinked right at the connection but I don’t know if that will make a difference or not?? I removed the heat shrink on one of the wires..

Also as mentioned all three hall sensors are only reading a max of 3 V when rotating the wheel. Shouldn’t they be 5v? It goes back down to zero when rotating but it just never goes past 3.0 V
 

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Maybe the stator is striking the magnets and that’s what that screeching sound is. Because when I’m up to speed I don’t hear the noise because the RPMs are much faster so maybe the stator isn’t able to strike the magnets at faster speeds. I don’t know but I’m bout to open this dang motor :confused:
If I see marks on the magnets I know what the screeching sound was therefore it’s from the bearings.

Good thing is the motor still performs normal just that screeching sound. Hopefully it’s just possible magnet strikes.
If this is the issue I doubt it’s the axle as I haven’t taken that many hard impacts but when I first got the motor it never rolled that smoothly to begin with plus I may have gotten water in there.
 
Condensation on the inside. I guess that’s how the bearings got damaged. The bearing feels a little off when I spin the side plate in my hand. Not terrible but feels about similar to my old hub motor that has bad bearings.
 

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Yep magnet strikes. That’s what that dang screeching noise was. I also found some dirt and mud in there too :lol: :lol:
I will get this cleaned up and order some new bearings. I’ve learned my lesson, I will no longer get my hub motor wet again. Yes I will stay out of the mud :roll:
 

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Well I think it’s fair to say QS does not do a good job of sealing their motors. I’ve actually been really careful to not get water directly on the axle or where the side plates meet the core.

What do you guys recommend for removing this rust? But then it’s just gonna come back right, maybe I should put some oil to prevent the rust buildup, like WD-40 or something. I’ve use vinegar to get most of it off.

Also can someone please comment on my hall test that I performed? As mentioned each hall sensor is only reading a maximum of 3 V while turning the wheel backwards, are they not supposed to go all the way up to 5v? I can change them since I have the motor open but I don’t know if they need changing?
 
Does not have to be exactly water ingress. Could be condensation.
Example: Hot motor when cooling off in humid conditions will draw in humid (moisture containing) air no matter how well sealed. When the motor surfaces cools more the moisture can condense on the inside surfaces. Multiply by numerous times could end up with quite a bit of water in there.
 
99t4 said:
Eastwood said:
...maybe I should put some oil to prevent the rust buildup, like WD-40 or something.
Aren't you going to use statorade?

Well at least not for now since there’s a rust issue. I can only imagine adding more liquid wouldn’t help. I got the rotor/magnets all cleaned up. I just need to scrape off the dissolved rust. Not sure what type of brush to you use yet. Tried hard plastic bristle brush but it’s not enough. Maybe they make an aluminum bristle brush. Or just sand it :?

I just gave the stator a bath, hope it doesn’t start rusting overnight. The magnets are good it’s been multiple hours and no rust. The rust oleum product seems to work really good. Just hoping the stater doesn’t need another bath because there’s so many little crevices where one little piece of rust could be hiding.

But yeah to answer your question probably no statoraid for now until I know the rust is gone. The rust was my F/F lol. There was so much rust in there it was causing friction when I turn the wheel.
 
99t4 said:
Does not have to be exactly water ingress. Could be condensation.
Example: Hot motor when cooling off in humid conditions will draw in humid (moisture containing) air no matter how well sealed. When the motor surfaces cools more the moisture can condense on the inside surfaces. Multiply by numerous times could end up with quite a bit of water in there.

Interesting, my last motors didn’t rust on the inside so maybe they were sealed 100%. If that’s even possible. I would imagine if the side plate covers are 100% sealed and you have good bearings and also silicone the axle wires, I don’t see how any moisture could be pulled in? But I don’t know this is my first rust issue.
 
Before and after
I’m just hoping the rust doesn’t come back on the stator. If it does I’ll give it another bath in the morning. used a heat gun after rinsing the rust product off. Got the motor nice and warm but not too hot, in efforts to get all the moisture out. I tried to be super careful around the hall sensors, I’m hoping they still work
 

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Eastwood said:
amberwolf said:
They just ground whatever voltage the controller outputs, whenever they are activated by magnets.

Right, but shouldn’t it read close to 5 V on some of the rotation of the wheel?
No, at least, not necessarily. In your case, no. (unless your controller is defective or programmed wrong).

The signal line voltage comes from the controller, not the hall, for motor halls. (throttle halls work differently).

The hall does not output a voltage at all.

The hall only grounds the voltage the controller places on the signal line. It does this when it is "on", meaning whenever a magnet has triggered it (exactly what conditions trigger it depend on the specific hall sensor.

Any voltage you read there comes from somewhere else. If you disconnect the hall signal wires from the controller while still leaving the power wires, you may get a stray voltage on the signal line, that's induced into your meter wires and/or the motor-side hall signal wires, but it is not coming from the halls themselves.

The exception to this is if the motor has a board inside it that the halls connect or mount to, and that board has built-in signal pullup resistors or other electronics, but the voltage still isnt' coming from the halls, it is then coming from this board. This is pretty rare, mostly seen isnide geared hubmotors, or more expensive OEM-bike motor systems, and is not usually seen in motors sold as bare motors or as generic "kits". Even QSMotor doesn't use this system in any of the motors I've seen opened up. I don't see it in your motor, either.


The maximum voltage you can see on the hall signal lines is that which comes from the controller on those signal lines.

The minimum voltage (when a hall is turned on by a magnet) is typically around 0.8v, but can be lower or higher, depending on interference, noise, resistance, etc. Usually it's just called "ground" or "0v" or "low", even when it is not actually at those voltages, for convenience.

The typical voltage on the signal line when not turned on by a magnet will be something around what the controller places on the signal line, depending on interference, noise, resistance, etc. Usually it's just called "5v" or "high", even when it is not actually at that voltages, for convenience.

But the real voltage you will see depends mostly on your controller's actual output.

Some of them output 5v, some 12v, and some less than either by whatever amount their internal electronics (usually a protective voltage divider, etc) reduce that signal pullup voltage to.



Also being the red wire is actually reading 5 V so I would think the 3 hall sensors would be reading close to that.

That is just hte hall power supply. It has nothing to do with the voltage you see on the signals, since it doesn't come from the same place.

The hall signal line can read a MUCH higher voltage than the supply to the halls, or it can read lower, or similar. That is because they are completely separate sources. The supply voltage *can* be used for this, via the pullups in the controller (since the halls don't output anything), but that is not done in all controllers (just most of the typical ebike types).


I don't know how else to explain the operation of these, without getting into schematics and detailed explanations at an electronics-internals level, which is going to take a lot of posting back and forth to ensure each concept gets across. ;) I can do that if you like.

If you won't or can't accept my explanation of how these work, you can look up the spec sheet for the typical motor hall sensor (honeywell SS411 or SS41, etc) you can see how it is internally designed, using an open-collector transistor output (sometimes darlington pair style). If you don't know how that works, there are electronics sites like http://AllAboutElectronics.com that can teach you. ;)
 
Eastwood said:
I’m just hoping the rust doesn’t come back on the stator. If it does I’ll give it another bath in the morning. used a heat gun after rinsing the rust product off. Got the motor nice and warm but not too hot, in efforts to get all the moisture out. I tried to be super careful around the hall sensors, I’m hoping they still work
See Kingfish's DIY Rust and Restoration thread. Includes cleaning and rustproofing and bearing replacements in a motor.
 
Eastwood said:
Well I think it’s fair to say QS does not do a good job of sealing their motors.
You can't truly perfectly seal them. Even if you seal the covers and screws, moisture can be wicked up the wiring itself over time, as pressure changes inside the motor from temperature changes. Moisture can also do the same via the bearings themselves.

It is possible to seal even those things, but it gets expensive pretty quick, either from the necessary parts, or from the labor needed to do the work and then ensure it happens right via good consistent QC. So you probably won't find it in the average motor, or even more expensive DIY stuff.

To fully seal a motor, you'd need to seal not only the gaps between wires in the cable housing, but also the actual conductors inside each wire that leads into the motor, and you'd need seals around the bearings and axle and covers that are guaranteed to keep all gas exchange from occuring between the inside and the outside of the motor.

The more typical way to prevent rust in a motor is to ensure all surfaces have rustproof coatings. Then if moisture does get in, it won't corrode anything. Kingfish, Doctorbass, Cowardlyduck, and others have posts and threads showing how they did this for their motors.
 
Eastwood said:
99t4 said:
Aren't you going to use statorade?

Well at least not for now since there’s a rust issue. I can only imagine adding more liquid wouldn’t help.

"Liquid" doesn't cause rust. ;) (in that not all liquids contain water or oxygen-bearing materials) Water (specifically oxygen) does. So liquids that contain water (or oxygen) can cause rust. Other corrosive chemicals can do it too, of course. But it's the water that we are typically worried about in ebike motors. :)

FWIW, the statorade uses an oil to contain the magnetic particles. It shouldn't cause any rust on it's own, though any moisture that gets inside the motor could certainly get mixed with the oil and then still do it's thing.

Also, there have been posts showing concerns that the oil in ferrofluids of some types may damage anti-rust coatings people have applied to magnets and laminations. I don't know any details of any of that, so for more info you would have to find the posts about it. I couldn't locate them in a one-try quick search. :/
 
Sure. I just want to make sure people understand how the things work, so they don't assume there's a problem when there most likely isn't, and waste time and money fixing stuff that isn't broken. ;)

I've wasted plenty of time and money doing that over the years when I didn't get that kind of help. :/
 
More pics, getting there

Yep gave the stator a 2nd bath.
 

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amberwolf said:
so they don't assume there's a problem when there most likely isn't, and waste time and money fixing stuff that isn't broken. ;)

Thanks! Yeah I think the halls are good, well at least before the acid baths :lol: well see
The rust I had to get out of there as it was causing that loud screeching sound. There was basically no space between the stator and magnets it was filled with rust. It explains that loud screeching sound. Then the bad bearings was making this worse.
 
varnish or no varnish? I can’t make a decision, I keep going back-and-forth :? :confused: :pancake:

There’s one part of me I’m thinking if I get rid of all the rust and seal the motor properly I shouldn’t have issues. But then I’m thinking of all the hours of work I just put in, it would be really unfortunate for this to happen again without any varnish protection.

I would like to run F/F in the future and I’m a little concerned with varnish. It just logically makes sense that F/F would act as an abrasive against the varnish. So that’s another factor in making this decision as I will be pushing a lot of power to this motor so I’ll probably need some statoraid and HubSink’s. So that being said maybe I shouldn’t varnish, can you see my dilemma here I keep going back-and-forth, someone please help me :lol: :lol:
 
Done! No varnish
The motor still works after the acid baths. Hall sensors are still functioning, didn’t bother testing them again. Took the bike on some Enduro trails today and the motor performed very well with the new controller. I’m really hoping that rust doesn’t come back. The motor is sealed much better now as you can see in the pictures. Sealed up the axle wires with the same high temp silicone/gasket. So I would hope the motor can take a little bit of water without moisture getting inside, although I will keep it dry regardless. QS does an absolutely horrible job of sealing their motors. I know this isn’t new information but I have experienced it firsthand. I would’ve never rinsed this motor off with water for cleaning if I would’ve known it was that vulnerable.

Oh yeah painted the bolts red, I had to make something fun out of this process :lol:

thanks for all the input!! :mrgreen:
 

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